Far far away, in the middle of Andalucia lies a town equivalent of a warm bitter-sweet cold glass of a fine Spanish cherry, locally known as Jerez. This fortified and unfiltered gem is still full of a purified Spanish love for life, free of the northern nonsense. And, honestly, I wish this well-kept secret to remain so–authentic and stubborn. I’m writing this article not for business purposes but purely out of love for the town with a traditional character. My ode to Antequera, if you don’t mind because I don’t.
Often it is known for the symhiosis of its half natural, half man made monuments of El Torcal and Neolithic Dolmens, but seldom it is praised for its rich and diverse history. Of course, most of Spain share these historical and cultural characteristics and Antequera is a perfect example of it, just more so.
Antequera is also known as “the hearth of Andalucia”, not only because it stands on the crossroads of the main regional cities: Seville, Cordoba, Granada, and Malaga, but also because in its Old Town lies the geographical center of the region, or, at least, the city claims so. Whatever is the case–in Atequera you’ll feel like in the middle of everything.
Antequera Details
Neolithic Origins (4000-2200BC)
Most famous monuments in Antequera come from its dawn when it was just a phenomenon of natural beauty and profound human imagination. The three dolmens of Menga, Viera, and Tholos de Romeral are dated from deep Neolithic (the Dolmen de Menga 4000BC) to the Bronze Age (Tholos De Romeral 3000-2200BC) showing technological degradation over time. These exceptional megalithic structures includes a stone of 180 tonnes, which is beyond impressive but moving such heavy pieces was rather typical for that period if time. Lost technology? Perhaps, but sites like Dolmens of Antequera, as wonderful as they are, are not unique by itself. What makes them unique is the alignment of these ancient megalithic structures to the natural environment.
The Dolmen de Viera is aligned at the Equinoxes-astronomical event, so far so good. The Dolmen de Menga is aligned to the Peña de los Enamorados, it’s a bit strange, but clearly ancient people thought that some kind of God or Giant is resting there (Sleeping Zeus near Heraklion in Crete comes to mind). Finally, the Tholos of Romeral is aligned at El Torcal, which is, really, like whatever… But the fascinating part that these different alignments form a triangle. Coincidence? I doubt it. Dolmen of Antequera is just one of many Neolithic structures showing sophisticated understanding of geometry, environment and sun movements by the ancient people who built it.
Based on historical written records, the Domen De Menga was always known to the people who lived in this area.
Bronze Age-2nd Century BC ()
My favourite period is rather silent as it is often is but Tartessus which is often linked to the Biblical and.. from Oddyssey.
The Tholos of Romeral is the most important archaeological site from this period but a Bronze Age settlement was uncovered to the North of Antequera as well. This could be city of the people who built the Dolmens.
Later on, Iberians and even traces of Carthage, but we can only guess what life could’ve looked back then as no written, or at least deciphred sources remain..
Roman Antikaria (1st-5th Century AD)
It is difficult to comprehend but about 2000 years ago, the grasp of Rome reached Antequera, whole of Iberia, and actually much more. An interesting fact is that the branch of the famous Via Augustus, Domitiana, ran and branched in Antequera. These roads were built as an ambitious project by the first Emperor of Rome to show off his power by making the same road that Carthaginian General Hanibal used for his surprise attack on Rome in 218 and Hercules before him, accessible to everyone. Impressive it was indeed, Via Augustus was widely used by Moorish even a millenia later, just they probably didn’t knew who built it, so called it al-Racif.
Nevertheless the importance of these roads, probably, the most known Roman ruins in the city are the Roman Baths. It is located just below one of the most beautiful places in Antequera–Plaza de Santa Maria. The ancient structure date back to the mid 1st century and was used up until the Romans lost control over Hispania in the 5th century. In these baths was found one of the most impressive archaeological find in the city-an impressive bronze sculpture known as Ephebus of Antequera.
The Romans ruled over this region for 7 centuries since the Second Punic Wars in 218-201 BC, when Carthage lost the control of this rich region.
Note that the size of the Roman Baths could indicate the size and importance of this faraway Roman town.
Visigothic Dark Ages (419-716)
Though the Visigoths ruled the area during the interperiod between Roman and Umayyad Caliphate Empires, it was pagan Vandals who took Anticaria from the Roman Catholic Empire. Took might be overstatement, it was more like they destroyed everything on their way. It was other German people, Visigoths, who took control of the area for the next 3 centuries. Ironically, they were Arian Christians, a Christian branch declared heretic by the Rome itself. In about 716, Visigothic Anticaria was conquered by Muslim forces, or even earlier, led by the forces of Tariq ibn-Ziyad himself. Exceptionally interesting and mysterious figure from the Northern Africa, who’s motivation to invade Iberia could have been not as much religious but rather historical-the people from Northern Africa-Carthaginians, used to rule these lands.
Medina Antaquira
One of the most notable buildings in the city is Alcazaba. Though it is almost exquisitely moorish, excavations show Roman an earlier presence on the hill.
The citadel with all of its fortifications as we know it today was built in 13th century due to rising Spanish Christian threat. This transformation of the facade was dwarfed by what was to come. Very tragic for local Muslim populations, but very fortunate for Christian World as the whole. In the pre-modern history times it always worked that way, somebody wins and somebody looses it all.
The Siege of Antequera (1410)
After … unsuccessful attempts, Antequera was finally conquered by the Infante Ferdinand of Castile after an exhausting siege in 1410–the same year the Grand Duchy of Lithuania together with the Kingdom of Poland halted once and for all the Northern Crusade after the Battle of Grunwald.
Given the magnificent fortifications of the city, no wonder it took 6 difficult months for ravaging Christians to finally breach the walls and take the castle from the locals. Mark the date because by this time, the Moors have been already living here for more than 7 centuries. It is 28 to 35 generations. By that time, the local Muslim Antequerans probably knew less about the Northern Africa than you do now.
Both sides understood the strategic importance of Antequera for the final battle for Granada. Nevertheless, even after the succesful siege of the city, it took another 82 years for Christians to take the Capital City.
The local Muslim population was expelled from the city to Granada, forming one of its districts known as Antequerella???
The White Tower (with the Christian city’s bell crowned in 1582) is the second-widest Moorish tower in all of Andalusia.
Christian Antequera (1410+)
Did you know that Antequera has the most churches per capita in all of Spain? Well, now you know, but you might wonder why? Well, the answer is very simple, in the 15th century Antequera found itself on the frontiers against Muslim… of Granada. Christians wanted to establish, and at the same time to show off, their devotion to Christian God. A charm of luck for the final battle between two major religions. A battle of the war which eventually skyrocketed the Christian World into the Renaissance and sunk the Muslim World into its dark ages.
All of its 36 churches were built during this period between the siege of Antequera and the siege of Granada. And it seems that nobody ever questioned again, if they need another church in Antequera.
There are many majestic, yet unspoiled, corners of the world. Relatively few of them could be found in Europe and even fewer by the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. Often, the coastlines are pushed to their capacities by the vast demand and over-tourism. As a result, the beautiful areas by the Mediterranean Sea often remind of an old whore after a high season. Sadly, there are very few places remaining unaffected by the overuse of the land.
The coastline of the Natural Park of Cabo de Gata-Nijar is one of those places, where one could still imagine how the Iberian Peninsula might have looked like centuries ago. This Nature Reserve has managed not only to avoid the overpopulation of the Spanish coastline but to preserve its pristine and natural beauty.
Cabo de Gata is a protected natural area in the southeast of the province of Almería in Andalusia, Spain. The area includes about 100 km / 62 mi of coastline, making it one of the largest marine reserves in the Mediterranean Sea. The coastal area includes cliffs, coves, stacks, and arches. There are also three volcanic islands, Isleta del Moro, Isla de San Pedro and Isla Mágica.
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UNESCO Protected Area
The area was declared a natural park on January 24, 1987, the first in the province of Almería. In 1997, the European Commission included Cabo de Gata among the Natura 2000 network. Most of the area is included in the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park and is a Biosphere Reserve. In 2015, together with the Tabernas Desert and the Sierra de Gata mountain range, Cabo de Gata was listed in the Global Geoparks Network of UNESCO.
The Geopark is known for its wide variety of geological features, including karst landscapes, fossil-rich marine deposits, and lava flows. There are also a number of archaeological sites, including the Cave of the Treasures, which contains cave art from the Neolithic period. The Cabo de Gata UNESCO Global Geopark is also home to a number of protected species, including the Iberian lynx, the Spanish imperial eagle, and the European mouflon.
Cabo de Gata is one of the driest and warmest areas in Spain. The average rainfall is only 200 mm per year and temperatures often exceed 30 °C in summer. The lack of rainfall and the aridity of the soil is due to the rain shadow effect caused by the nearby Sierra Nevada.
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Cabo de Gata is a popular destination for kayaking, scuba diving, snorkeling, and fishing. There are many dive sites around the islands and along the coast. The best time for diving is from May to October when the water is warmest.
Cabo de Gata is also popular with birdwatchers. The islands and coastal areas are home to a variety of bird species including Audouin’s gull, flamingos, and ospreys.
The area is also known for being a great place to go hiking. There are many trails that lead through the beautiful mountains and the exceptional coastline. Probably the best hikes are Loma Pelada, Sendero La Molata, Caldera de Majada Redonda and the one to Cala de San Pedro.
The waters around Cabo de Gata are exceptionally clear even by the Mediterranean standards. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
How to get to Cabo de Gata from Almeria
There is a reason for the unspoiled beauty of the shores in Cabo de Gata, the area is situated at the very corner of the Iberian Peninsula. It almost feels like the volcanoes formed this exceptional landscape after everyone has already settled in on one or another part of Spain and nobody really bothered about Cabo de Gata. This comes with a price – it is not that easy to reach the natural park nowadays. Luckily, there is one exception, the easiest way to get to Cabo de Gata is from Almeria.
By Car
The most convenient way to reach Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park is by car if you have one. You’ll have to take a detour from the A-7 motorway, connecting Almeria to Murcia cities, on either road AL-3106 or AL-3112. It is also possible to reach the area by AL-3115 from N-344, or AL-5106 from N-341, or use the latter to reach Carboneras and continue your journey by the coast from there. Generally, there are many small roads leading to Cabo de Gata depending on your final destination.
By Public Transport
The only major city connecting Cabo de Gata to the rest of the world is Almeria. There are few buses depending on your needs:
M-202 – Almería – Retamar – Cabo de Gata – La Fabriquilla
M-212 – Almería – San José – La Isleta del Moro
M-213 – Almería – Hospital El Toyo – Venta del Pobre – Carboneras – Agua Amarga
By Guided Bus Tour
Getting to Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park might be a real pain in the butt. A dedicated private transport might save you a lot of hassle and it is not necessarily expensive. Especially, if you count in the guide services and insurances. A day trip from Almeria to Cabo de Gata Natural Park costs just from €48 and that also includes hotel pickup. If you want to save your time and simply enjoy the transcendent beauty of Cabo de Gata, this might be the best option for you.
The coastline of Cabo de Gata is very rugged and there are many small coves and beaches. In this article you’ll find the most popular beaches in Cabo de Gata, but, of course, there are even more pristine paradise beaches in remote coves across the Natural Park like Cala Puente, Cala Sorbas, Cala Castillo and Cala de Enmedio. Naturally, it is much more difficult to reach them. You’ll either have to make an intermediate to hard hike or simply book a water taxi.
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Playa de los Genoveses
Thanks to the 1 180 m / 3 871 ft length of the beach, Playa de Genoveses doesn’t feel that crowded despite being one of, if not, the most popular beaches in the Natural Park along with Playa de Monsul and Playa de los Muertos. Among them, Playa de Genoveses is undoubtedly the best beach for families on the coastline of Natural Park Cabo de Gata-Nijar. The beach is situated just 3 km / 1.64 mi from San Jose and its dedicated car parking lot is relatively close to the sea, therefore the access to Playa de Genoveses is gentle for all family members.
Despite being situated between beautiful and colorful hills, dunes, and cliffs, the most famous geological feature of the beach is, undoubtedly, the fossilized dune. It is located approximately in the middle of Playa de Genoveses and reminds of a giant lava tongue, turned into stone upon reaching the sea, and it actually is. The fact that the fossilized dune is still visible today indicates that the beach is between 180 000 and 250 000 years old – old enough for the Neathertals to see it. The relatively dark sand of the beach also indicates the volcanic origins of Playa de Genoveses.
The origins of the name of the beach are from the Genoes Navy landing on this beach in 1147 to assist the Christians in reconquering the region of Almeria.
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Though Playa de Monsul is a relatively small beach, but of great beauty. The beach is a must-visit for any cinema fan. Playa de Monsul is located in a protected area, even further down the unpaved road from San Jose than Playa de los Genoveses, therefore its access is restricted. The beach is about 300 m / 1000 ft long and 20-30m / 65-100 ft wide and is backed by imposing cliffs. Playa de Monsul is quiet and ideal for swimming, sunbathing, snorkeling, and scuba diving. It offers a rich underwater fauna that includes large examples of the species of fish called barbudo (grouper), and moray eels. Undoubtedly, it is one of the most beautiful beaches in Cabo de Gata-Nijar Natural Park.
The most famous geological features of Playa de Monsul are the Petrified Wave in the middle of the beach and the Monsul Dune. Together they form a mini Holywood park of geological structures. As a matter of fact, Playa de Monsul is also known for being the filming location of many movies, including Lawrence of Arabia, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, and the Spanish movie La mujer de mi hermano (My Brother’s Wife), by Juan Antonio Bayona.
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Playa de Rodalquilar
Playa de Rodalquilar is approximately 1,200 m / 3,937 ft long and 50 m / 164ft wide natural beach with golden sand and crystal clear water. Unsurprisingly, it is a Blue Flag beach. Playa de Rodalquilar is a very well-equipped beach including showers, toilets, and a lifeguard service in the summer. There is a possibility to access Playa de Rodalquilar by car and park it right next to the sea but have in mind that the road leading there is not for everyone. In case you feel like there is not enough time to enjoy this exceptional beach, you can stay in the nearby hotel for another day. It is situated in very close proximity to the beach in the 18th century Castillo de San Ramón.
Sofía Cos, CC BY-SA 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Beaches of La Isleta del Moro
La Isleta del Moro is a small fisher village settled on a tiny cape facing an island. It is a hidden corner rich in natural beauty and known as an excellent place to discover the underwater world of the Mediterranean. The cliffs of La Isleta del Moro has an average height of 20 m / 65 ft. They are a unique natural place full of sea caves and gullies that make the shores of cliffs excellent for diving. The steep decline into the depths of the sea makes it a perfect spot to encounter a great variety of fish and other marine life. Thanks to the shape of a small peninsula, La Isleta del Moro has at least one side without wind and waves all the time, pushing its label of a perfect snorkeling place even more.
The list of beaches in La Isleta del Moro includes Cala Higuera, Playa del Peñón Blanco and Playa del Muelle de La Isleta.
Despite all the qualities for snorkeling and diving, these are not the only activities worth mentioning in La Isleta del Moro. Bird-watchers should keep an eye for various sea birds in the area but gastronomy is probably the second-most prominent feature of La Isleta del Moro. The people who live in here have basically two sources of income: fishing and tourism. Both combine perfectly into a decent amount of good restaurants offering the day’s catch on the plate. The location of the village makes La Isleta del Moro a perfect place for a romantic dinner during sunset.
Playa Los Escullos is a secluded beach situated between two volcanic rocks in the middle of a protected area. The beach is a sheltered cove that is ideal for shorter visits to the sea. The landscape around the beach is rocky and there are a few restaurants and bars close by.
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Compared to the best beaches in the area, it wouldn’t be anything special if it was not for the fossil dune with its arc formations. Despite being a true wonder on its own, the fossil dune offers great panoramic views of Los Frailes – the ancient volcanoes. Nevertheless, for the most, it is the arc that steals the show in this area. This unique formation eventually is going to be destroyed by one of the plenty of idiots who take pictures hanging or standing on it. Sooner or later, the arc will not hold and will collapse, likely taking the life of the last perpetrator. Don’t be that person.
Playa de los Muertos is, probably, the most famous and iconic beach in the Natural Park of Cabo de Gata-Nijar. The name of the beach translates to “the Beach of the Dead” in English. You might wonder why such a dreadful name for such a beautiful beach? Its origins of it are unclear, but it is believed to be named after numerous dead bodies from shipwrecks that occurred near the beach many years ago with a relative frequency. All thanks to the sea currents, converging in the area surrounding Playa de los Muertos.
It is a beautiful sandy-small pebble beach with crystal clear waters – perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and diving. Despite its close location to the coal plant of Almeria, Playa de los Muertos is situated in a natural park and is therefore unspoiled and very quiet. Playa de los Muertos was named the most beautiful beach in Spain for numerous times.
Possibly the most famous feature of Playa de los Muertos is the pillar rock formation, which has been carved from the cliffs by years of wave erosion. Nevertheless, it is not the only geological reason for the unquestionable popularity of the beach among the people and magazines in Spain. Various rocks and cliffs from different geological eras could be observed from the beach. The ancient sedimentary deposits filled with various fossils is a common feature found across Playa de los Muertos. On top of it lies the volcanic layer and relatively recent deposits from the Miocene Epoch.
Down south from Playa de los Muertos lies secret hidden coves, which could only be accessed by a water taxi. They could be booked in advance with a free cancelation up to čė hours before the tour date.
Having traveled most of the Spanish coastline, the area of Cabo de Gata-Nijar Nature Park ignites very positive emotions in me. There are very few corners by the Mediterranean Sea in the country with such a low level of urbanization. Cabo de Gata animates my imagination wondering what Costa Blanca or Costa del Sol might have looked like before being swarmed by tourist villas and skyscrapers. Despite all its qualities and interests, the lack of urban development is what amazes me the most about Cabo de Gata.
Ignoring that, Cabo de Gata has many great qualities that would make this unique volcanic area worth visiting even if there wasn’t a single house in Spain. It is the only corner in the Iberian Peninsula of volcanic origins. This could be observed across the coastline even by an untrained eye. Not only that it makes Cabo de Gata exceptionally beautiful and colorful, but creates unique conditions for unique flora and fauna above and underwater.
I recommend Cabo de Gata-Nijar Nature Park for a day trip or more to anybody who can find any reason to leave the urbanized areas or cities. Mother Nature is still flourishing in Cabo de Gata.
What Can I Do to Protect the Pristine Cabo de Gata?
Take care of your own trash, or even better pick up the trash in general. Avoid using the trash cans located in the area of the park, instead, throw them away in one of the settlements located within Cabo de Gata, or near your accommodation. Trash is often dispersed by the winds or animals and in natural areas that can cause immediate damage.
Follow all boating regulations – never anchor your boat on the top of lively local ecosystems such as Poseidonia meadows.
Respect local flora & fauna – don’t touch any underwater organisms, or pick up local plants.
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Sevilla is a fabulous city in the southern region of Andalucia in Spain. This exceptionally beautiful city has a very rich culture and history, its layers could be discovered in-between the streets of different cosy districts. The most notable period of Seville is the one that the city is the most famous, or infamous, for. The Andalucian Capital flourished in 16-18th, thanks to the discovery of the New World by Christopher Columbus in 1492.
Today, the town is a major tourist destination, andhome to many historic buildings and monuments. Due to its involvement with the Americas, Seville is noticeably much more popular with tourists from across the Atlantic. A visit to the old city is a must, especially the Plaza de Espana and the Alcazar Palace. The nightlife here is fantastic and the food is delicious. Plan to stay here for at least a few days, you’ll enjoy your time here.
Despite all the historic landmarks, it is the charm of its streets that makes Seville. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Seville History
The first settlers in what is now Seville were the Celts, who founded the city of Hispalis (modern-day Seville) in the 3rd century BCE. The Romans conquered the city in the 2nd century BCE and renamed it Hispalis. The city flourished under Roman rule and was made the capital of the province of Baetica. It was an important commercial centre and a base for the Roman navy. In the 5th century CE, the city was conquered by the Visigoths and renamed Spal. The city was sacked by the Vandals in the 6th century and was conquered by the Arabs in the 8th century. They renamed the city Ishbiliya and made it the capital of Al-Andalus. Seville flourished under Arab rule and became a major cultural and intellectual centre.
The Christians reconquered the city in 1248, turning Seville into a key part of the Crown of Castile. As a result, the city’s economy flourished. In the 14th century, Seville experienced a brief Golden Age, with the construction of several important landmarks, such as the Gothic Cathedral and the current form of the Alcázar Palace.
In 1481, a major outbreak of plague killed thousands of people, but the discovery of the New World in 1492 was the precursor to another prosperous period for the city. In 1503 Seville was chosen as the home for Casa de Contratación, which was the official Spanish trading house responsible for the regulation of colonial trade and emigration from Spain to the Americas. Being the only option to reach or trade with the Americas, resulted in merchants pouring to Seville from all across Europe.
In the 17th century, the city declined in importance as Madrid eclipsed it as the new capital of Spain. However, Seville remained an important cultural center, and it was home to a number of notable writers, artists, and musicians.
Torre del Oro is one of the most visited landmarks in Seville, it was built by the Almohad dynasty in order to control access to Seville via the Guadalquivir river. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The decline of Seville continued in the 18th century as the result of silting of the Guadalquivir River, which made navigating the river much more difficult. Most of the trade had to be moved to the nearby port by the Atlantic Ocean – Cadiz. Despite that, surprisingly, the Port of Sevilla is still operational and is located, on the left bank of the Guadalquivir River in the city. The port is Andalusia’s largest river port, as well as Spain’s fourth-largest inland port. It handles approximately 10 million tonnes of cargo per year.
Map of Seville
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Guadalquivir River is one of those natural bodies that has shaped the existence and the development of the Civilizations throughout their existence in the area. It is the longest river in Andalucia and the fifth-longest in the Iberian Peninsula, flowing out from the Sierra Morena mountains in Andalusia. Guadalquivir River passes through the cities of Córdoba and Seville before finally reaching the Atlantic Ocean at the Gulf of Cádiz.
Seville was founded on the banks of Guadalquivir River, and for centuries it was the only way to reach the city from the sea. There is no better way to explore and understand the origins of Seville than a boat tour on the Guadalquivir. During the tour, it is possible to visit some of the most important monuments of Seville, such as the Torre del Oro, the Cathedral, the Giralda, the Reales Atarazanas, and the Plaza de España and the Isla Mágica theme park.
The Alcázar of Seville is a royal palace in Seville but it was built as a fortress in the 11th century, on the site of the former palace of the Moorish ruler Abbad II. The palace was extended and remodelled in the 14th century by Pedro I of Castile, and it was further altered in the 15th century by his son, Henry IV. The palace was used as a royal residence until the early 19th century, when it was converted into a military barracks. It is the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe. The Alcázar was reopened to the public in 1931, and it is now one of the most popular tourist attractions in Seville.
I haven’t seen the Royal Alcázar of Seville without long queue lines for tickets. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Alcázar is built in the Moorish style, with a mix of Christian and Islamic influences. The exterior of the palace is decorated with intricate patterns of tiles, known as azulejos. The interior of the palace is sumptuously decorated with tapestries, paintings, and carved woodwork. The palace has a number of gardens, including the famous Courtyard of the Lions, which is home to a number of marble lions. The Alcázar of Seville is one of the most beautiful examples of mudéjar architecture, and it is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
The vast area around the largest cathedral in the world, made me feel like in Vienna. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Seville Cathedral & La Giralda
The Seville Cathedral (Spanish: Catedral de Santa María de la Sede de Sevilla) is the largest Gothic cathedral and the third-largest church in the world. It is also the largest cathedral in the world, as well as the largest church in the world that is not a basilica. It is the seat of the Archbishop of Seville. The cathedral is also known as the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See.
The exterior of the cathedral is characterized by its large size and its lavish decoration. The western facade is dominated by a huge carved relief of the Last Judgment. The interior of the cathedral is equally impressive, with a vast nave that is supported by numerous pillars. The nave is decorated with a number of frescoes, and the altar area is home to a number of sculptures, including a statue of the Virgin Mary. The southern side of the cathedral features a large rose window, while a massive tower dominates the north side. The tower is better known as Giralda and together with the Seville Cathedral, it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Spain, and is one of the most visited buildings in the world.
The Giralda is the bell tower of the Cathedral of Seville. It was registered in 1987 as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO along with the Alcazar and the General Archive of the Indies. The Giralda is the fitting symbol of the city of Seville, as it is its most recognizable monument. It is the former minaret of the Great Mosque of Seville which was converted into a bell tower after the city’s reconquest by the Christians in 1248. The Giralda was originally built in 1184 in Almohad architectural style. The tower is one of the most important examples of Moorish architecture in Spain. At the time of its construction, it was the tallest minaret in the world with a height of 97.5 m / 320 ft.
The Giralda has a square base with four arches on each side. These arches are decorated with intricate carvings and inscriptions. The Giralda has 35 bells and the tower has three levels: The first level has a series of arches which lead to the second level; The second level has a series of balconies which provide views of the city; The third level has the bells. Visitors can climb to the top of the Giralda for a fee, which is also included in the combi-ticket to the Cathedral of Seville.
Parque de María Luisa is a public park that lies at the heart of Seville, together with a number of important landmarks, including the Royal Palace, the Cathedral of Seville, and the Alcazar. The area was declared Bien de Interés Cultural in 1993. The park was established in 1893 with the new and modern additions to the park were constructed for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition which was held in Seville. That includes the famous Plaza de España, which took almost 15 years to be completed (1914 and 1928). It is a landmark example of the mix of Moorish, Baroque and Renaissance Revival styles in Spanish architecture.
The Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions is a relatively unpopular architectural masterpiece in the corner of Parque de María Luisa. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Plaza de España
The Plaza de España complex is a huge half-circle with buildings continually running around the edge accessible over the moat by numerous bridges representing the four ancient kingdoms of Spain. Inside the plaza, there is a vast park with numerous fountains, gardens, and a monumental fountain at its center. The Plaza de España was featured prominently in the film Lawrence of Arabia, and more recently in Star Wars: Episode II.
Today, Plaza de España is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Seville and is one of the most photographed spots in the city. The plaza is located in the heart of the city and is home to a number of important landmarks, including the Royal Palace, the Cathedral of Seville, and the Alcazar. The plaza is also a popular spot for locals and visitors alike to enjoy the city’s many festivals and events.
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Triana
The origins of the district of Triana in Seville date back to the Moorish period of the city’s history. The name Triana is derived from the Arabic word for “three”, and refers to the three main quarters of the district: Santa Cruz, San Marcos and San Lorenzo. The district was home to a large community of Moors, who were forcibly converted to Christianity following the city’s capture by the Christians in 1248.
During the centuries that followed, Triana became an important centre for trade and commerce, as well as a hub for flamenco and bullfighting. The district is also famous for its ceramics, which have been produced here since the 16th century.
In the 20th century, Triana was the scene of some of the most violent clashes between the police and anti-government protesters during the Spanish Civil War. The district was also home to a large number of Republican refugees during the Franco regime.
Today, Triana is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Seville, thanks to its vibrant atmosphere and its many historical and cultural attractions.
Setas de Sevilla reminds of mushrooms and it is exactly how the name of it translates – mushrooms of Seville. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Personal Experience
There is no correct answer to the list of must-visit cultural and architectural landmarks in Seville. One thing I’m sure of is despite what you choose to do during your stay in the city, Seville will surprise you with its richness that could only be found in the Capital of Empires. In no other city in Spain, you’ll feel such a powerful nostalgic aura reminiscent of the greatest times for the country, during the conquest of the New World. These, of course, were catastrophic events for the local peoples of the Americas, but here in the Old Continent, Seville was among those who profited the most. Those events were tragic, but remember that all the centers of Empires are built at the expense of other peoples.
Today, it is important to remember the history of Seville while embracing its magnificence and rich cultural impact. It has seen many Empires rise and fall but the city surpassed them all. Seville is a must-visit for every enthusiast of history or culture.
El Torcal is a natural UNESCO World Heritage Site within the Betic Mountains, known for its unusual finger-like pillar stone formations and other distinctive geological features. It is widely regarded as one of the most unique karst landscapes in the whole of Europe. Located right next to Antequera, just 48.1 km / 29.89 mi from Malaga, El Torcal is often left out off the tourists’ radars. While it is probably better for the preservation of the area, it doesn’t do justice to the beauty of this awe-inspiring mountain range. After all, there has to be a reason why it was added to the natural UNESCO World Heritage Site list. For sure, it has something to show off for it, especially, for nature enthusiasts like me.
Situated in-between the countless pieces of Betic Mountains, El Torcal could be easily mistaken for being just another fish in a pond. Having that in mind, a keen eye will notice a difference of range’s formations, whose rounded-shaped rocks give out that something unusual had happened here. Ultimately, the finger-like pillars need certain conditions to form.
Rock formations of El Torcal are reminiscent of the Great Pillars of the Gondor Kings. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Formation of Sierra del Torcal
Betic Mountains stretch throughout the southeastern part of Spain along the Mediterranean coast. Its location is no coincidence. The genesis of these mountains rose large parts of the Iberian Peninsula from the depths of the ocean millions of years ago. This gradual action shaped the iconic peninsula to its current form we all know and appreciate today. Geologists can tell that the rocks across the area, started to form at the bottom of the ocean about 200 million years ago during the Jurassic era.
El Torcal is a great example of this geological process, the whole mountain range is like a ‘living fossil’ and speaks for itself of what had happened here throughout all that time. The incarnation of these mountains is a very interesting and unique case in the peninsula. For this reason, in 1929 El Torcal de Antequera became the first object to be recognized as “Andalusian Protected Natural Area”. In the coming years, the mountain range was declared and added to many other conservation lists, including the UNESCO World Heritage Site list, I mentioned before.
El Torcal, together with La Peña de los Enamorados (human head shaped mountain) and three neolithic megalithic monuments form Antequera Dolmens UNESCO Site. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Despite being located right next to a regional center – Antequera, due to its nature, El Torcal offers a very limited variety of access.
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By public transport
There is no public transport running to El Torcal.
By car
Car is the only way to get up to El Torcal visitors center. You can reach it from 42nd km of road A-7075, between Antequera and Villanueva de la conception.
Parking at Centro de Visitantes Torcal Alto on the mountain range is limited and the road leading to it is closed after the slots are filled. Alternative parking is next to A-7075 Road. There will be a bus running between parking lots after the upper one is closed, which costs 2.00Eur for a round trip. Alternatively, you can climb up to El Torcal Alto visitors center on a 3.6 km / 2.24 ft long orange-marked hiking route, with 263 m / 863 ft vertical ascension. It is considered intermediate difficulty.
Another option is to take a tour from Antequera. There are quite a few options, but personally, I prefer taking tours via third parties, like GetYourGuide, so I get better guarantees for quality service and proper cancelation policies. Enjoy one of the most famous natural landscapes in Andalucia.
Transfer from Antequera with a guided hiking tour (4h00 | from € 25/person) The price covers a transfer from Antequera and a guided tour in either English, French or Spanish. Up to 8 people groups are accepted.*
Transfer from Malaga with a guided hiking tour (5h00 | from € 49/person) The price covers a transfer from Antequera and a 3-hour long guided hiking tour in either English or Spanish. Up to 8 people groups are accepted.*
* All of these tours are curated by GetYourGuide, therefore you can cancel up to 24 hours in advance to receive a full refund.
Visiting El Torcal de Antequera is free of charge and you don’t need a special permit on any of the three marked routes. Entering other hiking trails is your own risk and responsibility. If you want to explore beyond the official trails, I recommend getting one of the guided tours in the mountain range. Note that these don’t include a transfer from Antequera as GetYourGuide El Torcal Tours.
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Green route
Most of El Torcal’s visitors are probably going to choose this hiking route, and most of them going to regret not taking the yellow one. On the map, the green route basically looks like a mini version of it. Nevertheless, this short trail is not shy of El Torcal’s beauty. The 45 min walk is relatively easy compared to what the yellow route has to offer, and for sure it is more than enough to get the feeling of what this exceptional mountain range is all about. The unique rock-pillar formations will please throughout the route, the hike includes famous figures like “Sphinx”, “the Indian” and “the Cathedral”.
Trail details
Distance: 1,50 km / 0.93 mi
Type: Circular
Ascend: +40 m / 131 ft
Duration: 45 minutes
Difficulty: Easy
These narrow passages between the rocks have opened-up following a karst collapse. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Yellow route
More of the “same” El Torcal natural beauty, which is hard to get enough of. The yellow route goes deeper into El Torcal Alto mountains throughout narrower shady paths. The non-green part of the hike is dominated by vegetation and it is not that hard to get lost if you walk off the marked trail. In addition to the rock formations mention before, the yellow route includes “the Finger (not that one)”, “Camel”, “Jug” and “Bottle”.
The orange route is somewhat different compared to the other two marked paths. This hike is one of the ways to get to the top of El Torcal after the road MA-9016 to the visitors center gets closed due to reaching its limits. The path begins at the lower parking of the mountain range and leads up to El Torcal Alto visitors center. Despite its functional description, the orange route offers spectacular views and vistas like “Mirador de Manuel Grajales”. Other interesting objects along the road are An old shepherds’ refuge “Majada del Fraile” and the Natural Monument “El Tornillo”.
Trail details
Distance: 3.6 km / 2.24 mi
Type: Linear
Ascend: +263 m / 863 ft
Duration: 3 hours and 45 minutes
Difficulty: Intermediate
There are obvious traces of an attempt to make Camorro Alto climbing trail more accessible. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Climbing Camorro Alto
This is the only unofficial hiking route I can recommend with confidence. Climbing the highest peak of El Torcal de Antequera sounds more dangerous than it actually is. Generally, given good weather conditions, a good pair of shoes should be enough to ensure your safety while climbing Camorro Alto from the northern side. Nevertheless, don’t forget that this is a nature reserve, thus if you chose to climb the mountain, maintain a “leave no trace” approach and respect the inhabitants of the area.
Finger-shaped rock pillars might be more common in other parts of the world, but here, in the Iberian Peninsula, they are unique geological formations. This, of course, requires specific conditions to emerge. The limestone sediments, from which Sierra del Torcal is shaped, originated in the deep past, when dinosaurs used to roam the Earth. Back then, the current area of El Torcal was submerged underwater in the Tethys Sea, located between the Iberian and African tectonic plates. As you might already know, most of the limestone rocks form throughout millions of years in the shallows sea waters, wherever it is due to biological process like oyster shells, or simply by evaporation of water, leaving Calcium Carbonate (precursor to limestone) to sink to the bottom of the ocean, where it was pressured into limestone. This process lasted for about 175 million years and resulted in strata thousands of meters thick.
Limestone rocks are a good place to look for ancient fossils. El Torcal is no exception to that. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Of course, limestone alone was not enough for such awe-inspiring rock formations like in El Torcal to take shape. These sedimentary rocks were only a mold for the forces, which sculpted the area during the last millions of years. The process, which started somewhere in the middle Miocene after the region has surfaced from the depths of the ocean, thanks to the Alpine orogeny. In fact, it is still happening today, as the Iberian plates to the north and African plates to the south continue its almost timeless showdown of collision in an attempt to form another supercontinent. Still, these uniformitarian forces were only the catalyst for the genesis of the current day form of El Torcal de Antequera.
A photo of El Torcal de Antequera is the thumbnail of the limestone page on Wikipedia. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
As you might now understand – being exposed to the atmosphere are not natural conditions for limestone. Like almost anything else, it is vulnerable to all kinds of erosion: driven mainly by either wind or water cycles.
First and foremost, El Torcal is best known as a karst landscape, but what does it mean? Yes, there are some caves and holes in the area but that alone is so impressive, and more importantly unique? Definitely, no. This puzzled me for a while until I dug in a bit deeper into the mechanics behind the formation of this exceptional mountain range. Caves and karst sinkholes are typical for limestone strata exposed to rain and other water cycles. All thanks to the same physical feature of Calcium Carbonate – for which we can thank for having beautiful stalagmites and stalactites as well – its solubility in water. Here in El Torcal, it has saluted entire layers of Calcite, forming wide passages between the rocks and exposing them to further erosion caused by rain, ice, and wind. Finally, these meteorological agents shaped the uncovered layers of limestone to these remarkable stone pillars. Only by understanding these slow and gradual mechanics, one can really learn to appreciate the uniqueness of El Torcal.
Having traveled the old continent in and out, very few natural landmarks still manage to surprise me. El Torcal proved to be that kind of a place. Needless to say that I loved it, or that I highly recommend visiting it. Instead, once again, I want to emphasize the out-of-place feeling the mountain range gives. The natural UNESCO World Heritage Site could hardly be compared to any wonder of nature I know. The picturesque rock columns are reminiscent of a somewhat mythical aura from a deep past. The only good match I can think of is the Great Pillars of Gondor Kings from Lord of the Rings. Of course, the main difference between the two is that you can actually visit El Torcal de Antequera and see it with your own eyes. Therefore, why hesitate? Let El Torcal speak for itself.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots