Category: Murcia

  • Top Things to do in Cartagena, Historic Port of Spain

    Top Things to do in Cartagena, Historic Port of Spain

    About Cartagena

    Cartagena is an ancient port city located in the Region of Murcia, southeastern Spain. Cartagena has been inhabited for over two millennia, and its history and culture can be seen in the many archaeological sites and monuments found across the city. Roman ruins, such as the forum, temple, and amphitheater, which together with the Christian Conception Castle from the XIII century AD are some of the most popular tourist attractions in Cartagena. Not to mention the Carthaginian, Byzantine or Moorish remains, and the modern Art Noveau architectural masterpieces scattered throughout the city, which combined make you feel like in open doors museum.

    Cartagena is also home to the Museo Nacional de Arqueología Subacuática, which contains artifacts from the many shipwrecks that have occurred in the area. Cartagena is also the home to the first modern working submarine in the world – The Peral Submarine – which could be seen in Cartagena Naval Museum. The city continues its nautical traditions and hosts a Naval and Oceanic Engineering University and a naval military base. One of the four main military bases of the Spanish Navy and the only one located on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. This speaks volumes of the city’s strategic importance to whoever possesses it. Naturally, various military ships could be observed docked in the port of Cartagena. Huge tankers, and huge cruise ships are also a common sight. Overall, the second largest city in Murcia is a perfect city for naval, military, and history enthusiasts.

    Palacio Pedreño in Cartagena, Spain
    Palacio Pedreño in the main shopping street of Cartagena. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Cartagena History

    Cartagena was founded in 229 BC by Hasdrubal Barca under the name of Qart-Hadast. He was a son of Hamilcar Barca and brother-in-law of the legendary Carthaginian general Hannibal Barca, who is often cited as the biggest outside threat that the Roman Republic ever faced. Cartagena was one of the towns founded by the Punics during the expansion of their activities in the Iberian Peninsula after the First Punic War to pay off rather unfair reparations demanded by the Romans after the First Punic War, explaining the ancient mines surrounding the city like the ones in La Union and Mazzaron. It was a minelar rich area, and the peninsula surrounded by the sea, a natural Laguna and mountains seemed like a perfect location for a city. The conditions were so good, that Hasdrubal forseen the town as the Capital of his Iberian Kingdom. He even built a fancy Palace on Molinete Hill, so magnificent that would only fit a King.

    Unfortunately, Qart-Hadast didn’t last for long. The newly-found city was captured by the Romans in 209 BC during the second Punic Wars, 9 years after Hannibal launched the attack from this town against the Roman Republic and their allies in 218. The victors renamed the newly-founded Qart-Hadast to Cartago Nova. The mining opportunities made the town one of the most prosperous settlements in Romana Hispanica. By the end of the I century, the most exposed deposits were depleted but Cartagena remained flourishing during the Roman period – it was an essential port for trade and commerce.

    Post-Roman Times

    After the fall of the Roman Empire, followed the fall of Cartago Nova. The city was sacked and occupied by the Visigoths and later on by the Moors. It was recaptured by the Christians in 1245 and became an important naval base for the Spanish fleet. During the 18th century, Cartagena was a major trading port for goods from the Americas.

    Unfortunately, due to its importance, Cartagena has seen a lot of war. It was the site of a major naval battle in 1741 between the British and the Spanish. Later on, Cartagena was besieged by the French in 1811, and it was bombarded by the British in 1812. The city was partially destroyed during the Cantonal Revolution, captured by the Americans in 1898 during the Spanish-American War. But in the end it was the Spanish Nationalists who did the most damage to the city. During the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939), Cartagena was the main naval base of the Republican Government and it was the last city to surrender to the forces of General and future dictator Francisco Franco.

    El Zulo in Cartagena, Spain
    During the Spanish Civil War, Cartagena was the main naval base of the Republican Government. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Today, Cartagena is a popular tourist destination known for its exciting mix of old and new architecture, exceptionally rich history, good local Spanish cuisine, and big range of various beverages. Besides cultural ventures, the city is known for its beautiful natural location surrounded by mountains, filled with remote beaches, and coves.

    Map of Cartagena

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    Cartagena from La Conception Castle, Spain
    La Conception Castle could be accessed by everyone, using the panoramic lift. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Punic Wall (229-209 BC)

    The Punic Wall in Cartagena is a defensive wall built by Carthaginians before the second Punic Wars period somewhere between 229 and 209 BC. This cultural monument is among the top things to do in Cartagena because it is the only clearly visible remaining piece of the original Carthaginian Qart-Hadast. The wall was built in order to protect the city from the local enemies and potentially future confrontations with Romans. Being one of the most well-preserved Punic walls remaining, it is a very important archaeological site not only on the National scale but on a global as well. The Punic Wall in Cartagena is one of the very few archaeological remains of Carthaginians in Spain.

    Interesting that the remaining wall is facing the only land passage to the fortified part of the town. The first attempt to conquer Qart-Hadast by Romans failed miserably and had both tribunals slain together with their armies somewhere by these Punic walls. Nevertheless, the resilient Romans returned under the command of Publius Cornelius Scipio, a son, and nephew of the two commanders who died during the first attempt. He had his troops establish their base on Mount Mercury (Cabezo de los Motos), not too far from Cartagena. From there the Romans proceeded a blockade, though with limited results. The great Roman general had his difficulties penetrating the city’s walls but he wouldn’t be great if he didn’t. Scipio ordered some troops to trespass the salty lagoon from the north. Carthaginians didn’t respect enemies from that side, so the troops climbed the walls unnoticed after which they were able to open the main gates and let the rest of the army into the city. After this ingenious plan, most of the Carthaginians surrendered while a few fought their last on the hills of Conception and Molinete.

    Perfect junctions of the Punic Wall in Cartagena, Spain
    One of the most spectacular things about the Punic Wall is its precisely cut stones. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    In addition to the oldest defense fortress in Cartagena, you’ll get to see awkwardly uncomfortable macabre Dances of Death paintings in the 16-17th century Crypt of San Jose, which was excavated at the same time as the wall and seems to have been built within it.

    Roman Amphitheater (5-1 BC)

    The Roman Amphitheater of Cartagena is one of the best-preserved Roman theaters in Spain and the second largest in the Iberian Peninsula, falling under the equivalent in Merida, Extremadura. The amphitheater was built in 5-1 BC during the reign of the great Emperor Augustus and was dedicated to his grandchildren. At that time it originally seat up to 6,000 people. Today, due to its good condition and some renovations, the amphitheater is still used for cultural events such as plays and concerts.

    The Roman Amphitheatre in Cartagena, Spain
    The Roman Theater in Cartagena is one of the best-preserved amphitheaters in Spain. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    The amphitheater is the home to the archeology museum, where you can learn not only about the Roman past but the evolution of the surrounding area throughout the years. It was always in the center of Cartagena’s development – nowhere else the intermix of the cultures could be better observed in the city. The Roman Amphitheater could also be appreciated from the castle hill, but you can only learn more about its fascinating history if you decide to visit the museum.

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    Ermita de San Cristobal, Cartagena, Spain
    Ermita de San Cristobal was assembled within an old mill. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Roman Fortuna House (I Century AD)

    The Roman Fortuna House in Cartagena is a museum offering a unique experience of taking a glimpse into the past of the daily life of Romans. The exposition is located in the former home of Patrician living in Cartagena. Here you’ll get to learn about the typical Roman upper-class villas, the museum also contains a collection of Roman artifacts that were found during the excavations in the area. Probably the most interesting remains of Fortuna House are the mosaics and mural paintings.

    The name of the house comes from the inscription “Fortuna”, located at the back door. This Latin phrase translates to “Good luck”. Roman houses typically included such inscriptions in the entrance to the home to welcome visitors and warm intruders.

    Swan in House Fortuna, Cartagena, Spain
    House Fortuna offers a unique opportunity to take a glimpse into lives of Patricians in the Roman Republic. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Roman Forum (I Century AD)

    The Roman Forum of a rectangular site located in the center of the city. It measures approximately 100 x 50 meters. The Forum was the center of public life in the city during the Roman period. It was probably built in the 1st century BC and was in use until the 5th century AD. The Roman Forum was used for public speeches, meetings, and other events. Probably the most fascinating thing about this archaeological site is that the excavations never stopped and new artifacts and findings continue to emerge.

    The Roman Forum could be observed from Arqueológico Cerro del Molinete Park located on the hill near the site but if you want to learn more about this timeless site you can do so in the Molinete Roman Forum Museum. It is dedicated to the findings that were made in the area, including the Colonial Forum. the Sanctuary of Isis, the Port’s Thermal Baths, and the Atrium building. The museum contains a collection of Roman artifacts that were found in the area, as well as a number of other archaeological items.

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    La Conception Castle and the Roman Forum archeological site in Cartagena, Spain
    The panorama from Arqueológico Cerro del Molinete Park. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Conception Castle (XIII Century)

    The Conception Castle was built in the 13th century by the Order of Calatrava to defend the city from attack. The castle is situated on the top of Conception Hill, overlooking the harbor and the city, which offers probably the best vistas over Cartagena. This site was used as a military base until the early 20th century, but today it is the perfect place to get closer to the history of the city. Before the current Christian castle, here stood a Roman temple dedicated to Asclepius, and a Moorish castle later on.

    The area around the Conception Castle is open to all visitors and could be accessed either on foot or by the panoramic lift. The castle itself could be visited for a fee and it offers even more beautiful vistas and some insights into the evolution of the city over more than two millennia.

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    Cartagena port, Spain
    The view from Conception Hill towards the ancient and current port of military. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Modernist Architecture (XIX Century)

    One of the most pleasant surprises in Cartagena is its modernist architecture from the times of the gold rush in the XIX century. Advancing technologies made ‘depleted’ deposits from the Roman times profitable again, thus many traveled to the areas with high mining potential like Cartagena for a better fortune. At that time the city was partly destroyed during the Cantonal Revolution of 1873 making it a perfect storm for the construction of the new modernist buildings to reflect the sudden riches that Carthaginians experienced at this time. Everything was built in Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles to reflect the prosperity of Cartagena and its inhabitants.

    Gran Hotel de Cartagena, Spain
    One of the most beautiful buildings from Art Nouveau times – Gran Hotel de Cartagena. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    For recent years I’ve been living in Vienna, which is obviously no stranger to splendid Art Nouveau and Art Deco architecture, but the extravagance found in Cartagena from the XIX and XX centuries doesn’t stop to surprise me. Some buildings, like the Grand Hotel, we’re of course inspired by the modernist Viennese and French architecture. Other notable Art Nouveau masterpieces found in Cartagena include Aguirre Palace, Consistorial Palace, Casa Maestre, Casata Clares, Casa Cervantes, Casa Dorda, Casa Llagostera, Casa Zapata, and the Casino. Exploring the city in search of these masterpieces is a fun thing to do, though it is a bit heartbreaking at the same time because many of their architectural masterpieces are left to ruin, or partly destroyed already. With the current economic status of the city, Carthaginians don’t find a fit for such extravagant buildings.

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    Cartagena Streetview

    I have to admit, it took me quite a few visits before I started visiting museums. Cartagena is so much fun and rewarding to simply wander around and explore. It is like a book of history itself. See it yourself.

    Personal Experience

    Undoubtedly, Cartagena is one of my, if not THE favorite cities in the whole country. Nowhere else I have seen so much fascinating and difficult history of the Iberian Peninsula in such a small place. In Cartagena, it is absolutely normal to find Roman, Arab, Christian, and modern in such close proximity, almost on top of each other. The city is like a history book. Cartagena is an absolute must-visit for every culture and history fan, though nature enthusiasts will be surprised by the surrounding nature as well.

    Man at Cala Cortina in Cartagena, Spain
    Cartagena itself has no beaches but there are spectacular coves and sandy beaches in the surrounding area. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
    Cala Cortina vista, Cartagena, Spain
    All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

  • Visiting Batería de Castillitos on Cabo Tiñoso Cape near Cartagena, Spain

    Visiting Batería de Castillitos on Cabo Tiñoso Cape near Cartagena, Spain

    Sierra de La Muela, Cabo Tiñoso and Roldán Nature Reserve

    When it comes to Spain many things come to my mind… from Gaudi’s masterpieces in Barcelona to Corridas in Seville… to white beaches in Valencian coast… to Moorish scars in Andalusia… and many many more, there is much to be told about this country. Many songs have been sung and many stories have been written about Spain or it’s crown jewels. The region of Murcia is not one of them, and it doesn’t feel like they want it to be one.

    I tried to find any information of hiking trails in what is called Sierra de La Muela, Cabo Tiñoso and Roldán Nature Reserve, just next to Cartagena, a major city in the region of Murcia, I was unsatisfied with what I found. Except for some basic description of the park in English and some promises of endless trails, there was nothing to hang on. Of course, there is plenty of TripAdvisor subjective comments recorded throughout the years, and some hiking paths mapped by people themselves, but none of it give you trust-worthy information of what to expect. ‘A lack of facilities may differ a lot based on a person who wrote that a marked trail without any insight or photos might be just a random path, of which I’ve seen many without any wish to remember or share it with anybody.

    Sierra de La Muela, Cabo Tiñoso and Roldán Nature Reserve
    Just because there is no information it doesn’t mean there is nothing to see. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Mysterious Castle at a Tip of the World

    Once you enter “Sierra de La Muela, Cabo Tiñoso and Roldán Nature Reserve” to Google, all you get are these mysterious pictures of a castle with some rather modern cannons on it, without any significant explanation. But there is a story for everything, right?

    Batería de Castillitos disneyland-like fortifications, Cartagena
    The fortifications of Batería de Castillitos looks more like a castle from Disneyland rather than a military bulding. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Baterías de Castillitos and el Jorel Baterías on Cabo Tiñoso

    This interesting site is actually a defensive anti-navy gun battery base, which for some reason was built as it was a part of Disneyland rather than a military base. The site includes the Batería de Castillitos near the parking lot and the smaller Batería de el Jorel at the very tip of the cape. The batteries are built within 1,5km range and exploring the whole site can take quite a lot of time. There is even a possibility to hike down to a beach on the other side of the bay to Cartagena.

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    Even though it requires some better marketing and investment into infrastructure by the local authorities, today, Batería de Castillitos and el Jorel are slowly getting the attention it deserves.

    Batería de Castillitos on Cabo Tinoso, Cartagena
    The guns were abandoned by the military only in 1994 and the mysterious site was left behind alone ever after. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Baterías de Castillitos and el Jorel Details

    Batería er Jorel on Cabo Tinoso, Cartagena
    Baterías de Castillitos and el Jorel were invisible to those from the sea level. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    History of Baterías de Castillitos and el Jorel

    Built on a very tip of Cabo Tiñoso (Cape Tinoso), Batería de Castillitos is a powerful defense system built somewhere in-between 1926 and 1933 to protect the important port Cartagena ant its military arsenal. Built by the British, the deployed cannons were the best of the kind in the world at that time and prove to be more than effective. It was placed strategically on the top of Cape Tinoso in a way so it wouldn’t be seen from the sea level.

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    The cannons were used only once during the Spanish Civil War, in 1937 against Franco’s Nationalist fleet with devastating efficiency. Knowing its presence was more than enough to scare away the enemies. The guns were abandoned by the military only in 1994 and the mysterious site was left behind alone ever after.

     

    A man standing in the middle of Campillo de Adendrum, Cartagena
    There is one local restaurant in Campillo de Adentrum. Don’t expect a fine dining but it has more than anough to meet the basic needs. Photo by Aistė [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Getting to Batería de Castillitos, Cabo Tiñoso

    By bus

    Since there is no public transport going to Batería de Castillitos as late as 2020, you’ll either have to drive or walk there yourself.

    A road through Sierra de La Muela, Cabo Tiñoso and Roldán Nature Reserve
    The road leading to Batería de Castillitos is too extreme for buses. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    By car

    Sierra de La Muela, Cabo Tiñoso and Roldán Nature Reserve can be found in Murcia region between two major cities Cartagena and Mazarron, connected by AP-7, RM-332, and E-22 roads. Since the road to Batería de Castillitos can be reached only by RM-E23 road which is connected only to E-22, there is no point of using the different road to reach the park.

    RM-E23 road through Cabo Tinoso to Batería de Castillitos
    RM-E23 will keep you at the edge of your seat. The road is not recommended for inexperienced drivers. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    RM-E23 road to Batería de Castillitos

    And RM-E23 road is one of those roads which will keep you on the edge on your seat, but without a doubt, it will be very rewarding. The conditions of the road difficulty will build up slowly, so don’t get caught with your guard down. The first two kilometers will lead you through a beautiful green valley until the only town on the road, Campillo de Adentrum, and it won’t get much harder for another kilometer after you pass the town.

    RM-E23 road near cliff on Cabo Tinoso, Cartagena
    This road is not recommended for inexperienced drivers. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Once the road goes steeper, things can get a bit ugly. The roads are relatively narrow and there is not much space to pass by with the other cars. To make things worse, there are no mirrors on U-turns and it is not a common practice to use a machine signal before one. And don‘t forget that you are sharing the road with cyclists and hikers.

    Hiking to Batería de Castillitos on Cabo Tinoso, Cartagena
    Most of the hiking route to Batería de Castillitos will lead through RM-E23 road. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Hiking to Batería de Castillitos

    An alternative would be to park your car in Campillo de Adentrum and hike your way up for 8 km one way, which should take around two and a half hours. The hike might be demanding, and you’ll have to walk on the same road as you would go with a car, but at least you won’t have to worry about the difficulties passing each car.

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    Parking at Baterías de Castillitos and el Jorel on Cabo Tinoso, Cartagena
    One thing is for sure – there ar emore cars on Cabo Tinoso than this parking can fit. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Parking at Batería de Castillitos

    Even if you are a really experienced driver, the parking at Batería de Castillitos can drive you crazy. Be prepared for a couple of dozens of parking spots, located around a narrow gravel road, full of angry drivers, trying to do the same, with a very limited possibility to turn around. Most of the people just park their car on the left side of the road just before the parking lot.

    The military base on Cabo Tinoso, Cartagena
    The maze of the military base on Cabo Tiñoso. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    I would suggest either coming really early or a bit late, just before the sunset, to avoid the main crowds visiting the center. Another option would be parking your car on one a few vista parking spots 300-1,000m to the batteries and hike your way up.

    Panorama from Batería de Castillitos on Cabo Tinoso, Cartagena
    If park authorities going to implement either a bathroom or any other facility up here, please inform me at ctdots.eu@gmail.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Facilities at Batería de Castillitos

    Be advised that you won’t find either WC or café in the site so be sure to take your own snacks and water, or eat in Campillo de Adentro. If you have some spare time, my personal recommendation would be to go to a remote quiet resort town, La Azohia. It is located only 2.5 km from where E-22 connects to RM-E23 road and has plenty of places to eat or spend your evening.

    La Azohia - undiscovered resort town near Cartagena
    La Azohia is not only the main hub for hiking the park but has that surfer town feeling as well. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

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    Batería de Castillitos on the edge of Cabo Tiñoso, Cartagena
    After all said and done – visititing Cabo Tiñoso is well worth your time. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Is it worth to visit Batería de Castillitos?

    If you have the nerves to drive the road, and the patience for horrible parking experience, you won’t regret visiting Batería de Castillitos at Cabo Tiñoso. The distant views of Cartagena in the Mediterranean Sea alone are worth the visit, but you get to see some of those old-school huge cannons on a full scale and Disneyland-like fortifications as well.

    Batería de Castillitos towers on Cabo Tinoso, Cartagena
    Is there any other military instalment which looks like from Disneyland in the whole world? Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Just be aware of a forecast. I would not suggest making this trip if the weather conditions are not suited for it. Avoid the rain and clouds, without the panorama the trip itself is just not worth all the struggle. Also, visiting Batería de Castillitos on Cabo Tiñoso during a bad weather might be dangerous.

    The beautiful view from Cabo Tinoso, Cartagena
    The view from Cabo Tiñoso is just priceless. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    My impressions of visiting Batería de Castillitos

    Despite the poorness of this forgotten region, Murcia has a lot to show off. If I sounded harsh describing my experience, it is just because I see so much potential, therefore, the lack of investment into tourism kind of upset me. With better marketing, Murcia can be described as a very interesting place to visit, the region definitely has beautiful nature, interesting cities, not to even mention the important role in Reconquista. Yeah, the reconquer of Iberian Peninsula by Christians from Islamic Moors, which was one of the precursors to the Renaissance of Europe. What I miss from the region of Murcia, is a bit of pride in their rich history. Take our money, build that infrastructure.

    Batería de Castillitos on Cabo Tinoso, Cartagena
    Visiting Baterías de Castillitos and el Jorel will leave very few people unsatisfied with what they saw. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots