Nestled in the heart of Valencia’s Ciutat Vella, El Carmen is a neighborhood where history and modernity intertwine in the most captivating way. Once a medieval suburb enclosed by Valencia’s ancient city walls, it has evolved into a vibrant district brimming with culture, nightlife, and artistic expression. Winding cobblestone streets, remnants of the old Moorish and Christian fortifications, and a mix of medieval, baroque, and contemporary architecture tell the story of a neighborhood that has reinvented itself countless times.
El Carmen is a paradox in motion—by day, it’s a picturesque maze of historical sites, hidden plazas, and trendy cafés. By night, it transforms into Valencia’s beating heart of tapas bars, jazz clubs, and lively terraces, drawing both locals and visitors into its intoxicating energy. It is a place where you can stumble upon centuries-old convents turned into modern art galleries, discover street art adorning crumbling facades, or sip on a cocktail in a bar housed in a medieval palace.
More than just a neighborhood, El Carmen is an experience—a timeless district where Valencia’s past and future converge in the most unexpected ways.
El Carmen Details
History of El Carmen
El Carmen’s history is as intricate as its winding streets, shaped by centuries of conquests, transformations, and cultural influences. Its origins date back to the Islamic period (8th–13th centuries), when Valencia was under Moorish rule. At the time, the neighborhood lay just outside the city’s main walls, functioning as an area of orchards, workshops, and homes for artisans and traders. When the Christian King James I of Aragon reconquered Valencia in 1238, the city expanded, and El Carmen was enclosed within a new set of medieval fortifications.
During the Middle Ages, El Carmen became a religious and defensive stronghold. Several monasteries and convents were established, the most significant being the Carmen Convent, which later gave the neighborhood its name. At the same time, the Torres de Quart and Torres de Serranos were built in the 14th and 15th centuries, acting as imposing gateways into the walled city and providing protection from potential invasions.
By the 18th and 19th centuries, El Carmen had developed into a densely populated working-class district. However, as industrialization and urban expansion shifted the city’s focus elsewhere, the neighborhood fell into decline. Many historic buildings suffered neglect, and by the mid-20th century, it became associated with urban decay.
El Carmen’s revival began in the late 20th century, as artists, students, and creatives moved in, attracted by its historic charm and affordable rents. The area became a hub for alternative culture, street art, and nightlife. Today, it is one of Valencia’s most dynamic districts, where centuries-old buildings now house contemporary art galleries, trendy cafés, and lively bars, reflecting a neighborhood that has embraced change while preserving its deep historical roots.
Top Landmarks in El Carmen
El Carmen is a treasure trove of history, art, and architecture, where medieval towers stand alongside modern street art, and ancient convents house contemporary culture. Here are some of the must-see landmarks that define the neighborhood:
🛡️ Torres de Serranos & Torres de Quart – The Guardians of Valencia
These two massive medieval gates are the most iconic remnants of Valencia’s ancient city walls. Torres de Serranos, built in the late 14th century, was once the city’s main entrance and later served as a prison for nobility. Today, visitors can climb to the top for breathtaking panoramic views of the Turia Gardens and the old town.
Torres de Quart, constructed in the 15th century, bears visible cannonball scars from the Napoleonic Wars. Its rugged appearance makes it a powerful symbol of Valencia’s resilience.
🎨 Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporània (CCCC) – Where History Meets Art
Housed in a former 13th-century convent, the Centre del Carme is now a thriving cultural and artistic space. It hosts rotating exhibitions, performances, and experimental art projects, making it a must-visit for those interested in Valencia’s contemporary creative scene. The stunning gothic and renaissance cloisters contrast beautifully with its avant-garde exhibits.
🏰 Portal de la Valldigna – A Window to the Moorish Past
This hidden medieval archway, built in 1400, marks the boundary between the Christian and Moorish quarters of old Valencia. It’s a quiet, picturesque spot that whispers stories of Valencia’s Islamic past.
🌿 Plaza del Tossal & Plaza del Negrito – The Social Hubs
These two squares are the beating heart of El Carmen’s social life. Plaza del Tossal, located near the remains of the medieval city walls, is surrounded by lively bars and terraces. Plaza del Negrito, named after its small fountain, is a favorite spot for locals to enjoy an evening drink in an atmospheric setting.
🖌️ Street Art Murals – El Carmen’s Open-Air Gallery
One of El Carmen’s defining features is its ever-changing street art scene. Murals by famous Spanish and international artists cover the neighborhood’s crumbling facades, turning it into a living, breathing art gallery. Keep an eye out for works by Escif, Valencia’s own Banksy, whose thought-provoking pieces blend urban art with social commentary.
Main Activities in El Carmen
El Carmen is a playground for explorers, food lovers, and culture seekers. Whether you want to sip coffee in a centuries-old courtyard, discover cutting-edge street art, or dance until dawn, this neighborhood offers something for every taste.
🍽️ Culinary Experiences – A Fusion of Tradition and Innovation
El Carmen’s food scene is a mix of old and new—from classic tapas bars serving paella and patatas bravas to modern fusion spots experimenting with global flavors.
Traditional Tapas: Try Bodega La Rentaora for local wines and small bites or Tasquita La Estrecha, located in one of the narrowest buildings in Spain.
Modern & International Cuisine:Canela is famous for its Valencian rice dishes, while Refugio offers creative Mediterranean tapas with a twist.
🎭 Art and Culture – A Bohemian Paradise
El Carmen has long been a haven for artists, musicians, and performers. Its streets are filled with galleries, alternative art spaces, and live music venues.
Street Art Walks: Wander through the district to admire its ever-evolving murals by both local and international artists.
Cultural Spaces: Check out CCC (Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporània) for contemporary art exhibitions or La Beneficència, a historic building now home to Valencia’s Ethnological and Prehistory Museums.
Live Music & Theater:Radio City is an institution for live flamenco and indie concerts, while Sala Carme Teatre hosts avant-garde performances.
🛍️ Shopping – Unique Finds in Hidden Corners
Forget big shopping malls—El Carmen is all about independent boutiques, vintage stores, and artisan markets.
Vintage & Second-Hand:Santo Spirito Vintage and Madame Mim are must-visit spots for retro fashion lovers.
Handmade & Local: Look for Valencian ceramics, handcrafted jewelry, and quirky souvenirs at small artisan shops tucked away in narrow alleys.
🌆 Nightlife – Where the City Comes Alive
As the sun sets, El Carmen transforms into Valencia’s liveliest nightlife district.
Chill Terrace Bars: Start the evening with a cocktail at Café Negrito or Café de las Horas, famous for its Agua de Valencia, the city’s signature orange-based cocktail.
Lively Tapas & Music:Tasca El Botijo offers a fun mix of tapas, wine, and live music.
Clubs & Late-Night Spots: Dance the night away at Jimmy Glass Jazz Bar for live jazz or Radio City for an eclectic mix of DJs and performances.
Places to Eat and Drink in El Carmen
El Carmen’s culinary scene is a blend of tradition and innovation, offering everything from authentic Valencian cuisine to international flavors and cutting-edge gastronomy. Whether you’re looking for a relaxed café, a gourmet dining experience, or a lively cocktail bar, El Carmen has it all.
☕ Cafés and Bakeries – Perfect for a Morning or Afternoon Break
Café de las Horas – A stunning café with ornate décor and a must-try Agua de Valencia, a cocktail of orange juice, cava, and spirits.
Dulce de Leche Boutique – Famous for artisanal pastries, delicious coffee, and a cozy, Instagram-worthy atmosphere.
Librería Bartleby & Co. – A charming bookstore-café where you can enjoy a coffee surrounded by books.
🍽️ Restaurants – A Mix of Traditional and Contemporary Cuisine
Canela – One of the best places in El Carmen for a proper paella or fideuà, located right next to Torres de Quart.
La Comisaría – A modern Mediterranean bistro with great vegetarian options and a chic setting.
Kamon – A high-end Japanese fusion restaurant tucked away in a small alley, perfect for sushi lovers.
El Forcat – A classic Valencian restaurant known for its tapas and traditional rice dishes, set in a historic building.
🍹 Bars and Nightlife – From Laid-Back Cocktails to Lively Clubs
Café Negrito – One of the most iconic bars in El Carmen, ideal for an early evening cocktail in Plaza del Negrito.
•Radio City – A legendary venue with live flamenco on Tuesdays, DJs, and an artsy underground vibe.
Jimmy Glass Jazz Bar – The go-to place for jazz lovers, hosting top international and local musicians.
La Bodegueta de Carmen – A cozy wine bar with a great selection of local and Spanish wines, perfect for an intimate evening.
Accommodation in El Carmen
Staying in El Carmen means immersing yourself in Valencia’s historic charm, with its centuries-old buildings, artistic atmosphere, and vibrant nightlife. Whether you prefer a boutique hotel, a stylish apartment, or a budget-friendly hostel, there’s something for every traveler.
🏨 Boutique Hotels – Stay in Style
For those looking for character and comfort, El Carmen offers beautifully restored hotels that blend history with modern amenities.
📍 Caro Hotel – A luxury boutique hotel set in a 19th-century palace, featuring Roman and Gothic architectural elements. A unique blend of history and sophistication.
📍 Ad Hoc Monumental – A charming, mid-range hotel inside a historic building, offering cozy rooms with exposed brick walls and wooden beams.
📍 MYR Palacio Vallier – A high-end boutique hotel with elegant décor and a rooftop terrace overlooking the old town.
🏡 Vacation Apartments – Live Like a Local
For more space and flexibility, short-term rental apartments are a great option. Many are housed in centuries-old buildings with modern interiors.
📍 Valenciaflats Centro Histórico – Spacious, fully-equipped apartments in the heart of El Carmen, ideal for longer stays.
📍 SingularStays Carmen – Stylish apartments with a mix of contemporary and rustic design, located near Plaza de la Virgen.
🛏️ Budget-Friendly Stays – Hostels & Guesthouses
El Carmen also has great options for backpackers and budget-conscious travelers who want to be in the middle of the action.
📍 Home Youth Hostel – A laid-back, modern hostel with a social vibe, perfect for solo travelers.
📍 The River Hostel – Overlooking the Turia Gardens, this affordable hostel has private and shared rooms with a lively common area.
📍 Center Valencia Youth Hostel – Located steps from Plaza de la Virgen, it’s ideal for those who want cheap accommodation in the heart of El Carmen.
Staying in El Carmen means having Valencia’s best attractions, restaurants, and nightlife at your doorstep, all while soaking up the unique historical and artistic ambiance of this one-of-a-kind neighborhood.
Getting to & Around El Carmen
El Carmen’s central location in Valencia makes it easily accessible by foot, bike, and public transport. With its maze-like streets, historic charm, and pedestrian-friendly atmosphere, walking is the best way to explore, but there are plenty of other ways to get around.
🚉 Getting to El Carmen
From Valencia Airport (VLC):
Take Metro Line 3 or 5 to Xàtiva or Colón station, then walk about 15 minutes into El Carmen.
A taxi or ride-share takes 15–20 minutes, costing around €20–25.
From Valencia’s Train Station (Estación del Norte or Joaquín Sorolla):
A 15–20 minute walk through the old town.
Bus lines 5, 28, or C1 will get you there quickly.
From the Main Bus Station (Estació d’Autobusos de València):
A 10-minute walk across the Turia Gardens.
Buses C1 and 95 stop near El Carmen’s main squares.
🚶 Getting Around El Carmen
Walking: The best way to explore. Many of its narrow streets are pedestrian-only, making it easy to wander between landmarks, cafés, and plazas.
Biking: Valencia is one of Spain’s most bike-friendly cities.
Valenbisi bike rental stations are located throughout El Carmen.
The Turia Gardens cycle path runs right along the neighborhood’s edge.
Public Transport:
Metro stations Xàtiva and Colón are about 15 minutes away on foot.
EMT buses (Lines 5, 28, and 95) connect El Carmen to other parts of the city.
🚗 Driving & Parking – Not Recommended
El Carmen’s medieval streets were not built for cars, and driving here is a challenge due to one-way streets, pedestrian zones, and limited parking.
If you need to park, try:
Parking Mercado Central (near Central Market).
Parking Plaza de la Reina (a short walk from El Carmen).
With its charming walkways, hidden alleys, and buzzing plazas, El Carmen is best experienced on foot, allowing you to fully take in its history, culture, and lively atmosphere.
Personal Favourites
El Carmen is a neighborhood that reveals its secrets to those who take the time to explore. Beyond the well-known landmarks and buzzing nightlife, there are plenty of hidden gems, quirky finds, and unforgettable experiences that make this district truly special.
✨ Why El Carmen?
El Carmen isn’t just a place to visit—it’s a place to get lost, to stumble upon surprises, and to soak up the energy of a city that has been reinventing itself for centuries. Whether you’re here for a few hours or a few days, this neighborhood will leave a lasting impression.
Valencia, a city renowned for its rich history and vibrant culture, is also home to one of Spain’s most futuristic landmarks – the City of Arts and Sciences (Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias). This jaw-dropping architectural complex is more than just a tourist attraction; it’s a cultural and scientific hub that captivates visitors from around the world.
Nestled in the former Turia Riverbed, the City of Arts and Sciences is a perfect fusion of science, nature, and art. With its sleek, otherworldly structures and cutting-edge exhibitions, this complex has become a symbol of modern Valencia. Whether you’re passionate about science, fascinated by marine life, or simply in awe of stunning architecture, this place has something for everyone.
In this guide, we’ll explore its history, iconic buildings, and must-see attractions, making sure you get the most out of your visit.
The City of Arts and Sciences Details
History of The City of Arts and Sciences
The City of Arts and Sciences didn’t emerge overnight—it was a bold vision that took decades to bring to life. This ambitious project was conceived in the late 1980s as part of Valencia’s efforts to modernize and redefine its global image. What was once a flood-prone riverbed was transformed into one of Europe’s most impressive cultural and scientific hubs.
From a Riverbed to an Architectural Icon
Valencia’s Turia River was prone to severe flooding, and after a devastating flood in 1957, the city decided to divert the river. This left behind a vast, empty space running through the city—an opportunity for reinvention. The regional government envisioned a space dedicated to science, culture, and education, and in 1991, the City of Arts and Sciences project was officially approved.
Designed by Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela
The responsibility of designing this futuristic masterpiece was given to world-renowned Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, with Félix Candela joining for specific structures like L’Oceanogràfic. The goal? To create a one-of-a-kind complex that would symbolize Valencia’s innovation, creativity, and commitment to knowledge.
Construction began in 1994, and the first building, L’Hemisfèric, opened in 1998. Over the next decade, more structures followed, each one pushing the boundaries of modern architecture. The complex quickly became a symbol of Valencia, attracting millions of visitors annually.
Challenges and Controversies
Despite its global recognition, the City of Arts and Sciences has faced its share of criticism and controversy. The initial budget was far exceeded, and delays led to increasing costs, ultimately reaching nearly €1.3 billion—a huge jump from the original estimates. Some critics also argue that the futuristic designs prioritized aesthetics over functionality, leading to maintenance challenges.
However, despite these hurdles, the City of Arts and Sciences remains one of Spain’s most celebrated architectural achievements, drawing tourists, scientists, and artists alike.
L’Hemisfèric
A Striking Design with a Deeper Meaning
L’Hemisfèric was the first building to open in the City of Arts and Sciences in 1998. Designed to resemble a giant human eye, it symbolizes the act of seeing and understanding the world. This futuristic structure is surrounded by water, and its reflection creates the illusion of a complete eye, reinforcing its theme of perception and knowledge.
What’s Inside?
L’Hemisfèric is home to an IMAX cinema, digital planetarium, and laser show venue, offering immersive audiovisual experiences. Visitors can watch 3D films on nature, space, and science, with a screen as large as a basketball court. The planetarium projections transport viewers to distant galaxies, making it a must-visit for astronomy lovers.
Why Visit?
Experience 3D IMAX movies on a massive screen.
Enjoy planetarium shows that explore the universe.
Perfect for families and science enthusiasts.
Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe
A Building That Looks Like a Whale’s Skeleton
Opened in 2000, the Science Museum is an architectural marvel, designed to resemble the skeleton of a whale. With its open, airy structure and enormous glass walls, the building itself is a work of science and art.
A Hands-On Science Experience
Unlike traditional museums, this one encourages visitors to touch, experiment, and interact with the exhibits. From physics experiments to biological discoveries, the museum offers an engaging way to learn about science in a fun and interactive manner.
Why Visit?
Over 26,000 square meters of interactive science exhibits.
Great for kids and adults with hands-on learning.
Exhibits on genetics, space, robotics, and more.
L’Umbracle
A Living Sculpture of Nature and Architecture
L’Umbracle is an elegant, arched structure that serves as an open-air botanical garden. This 1,000-meter-long walkway is lined with palm trees, native plants, and sculptures, making it a perfect spot for a peaceful stroll.
More Than Just a Garden
At night, L’Umbracle transforms into a stylish open-air nightclub, offering breathtaking views of the City of Arts and Sciences. Whether visiting during the day or at night, it’s a must-see spot for photography lovers.
Why Visit?
Relax in a beautiful Mediterranean garden.
Enjoy art exhibitions and sculptures.
Stunning city views, especially at sunset.
L’Oceanogràfic
A Deep Dive into Marine Life in Europe’s Largest Aquarium
L’Oceanogràfic is one of the most impressive aquariums in the world, featuring over 500 marine species from the Arctic, Mediterranean, Red Sea, and more. With 45,000 animals, including dolphins, sharks, and beluga whales, this is a paradise for marine lovers.
What Makes It Special?
The largest underwater tunnel in Europe, offering a 360-degree view of sharks and rays.
The Dolphinarium, where visitors can watch spectacular dolphin shows.An underwater restaurant, where you can dine surrounded by fish.
Why Visit?
Perfect for families and marine enthusiasts.
Explore different ocean ecosystems in one place.
Home to exotic species like jellyfish, turtles, and penguins.
Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia
An Architectural Masterpiece
This opera house and performing arts center, opened in 2005, looks like a spaceship from the future. With state-of-the-art acoustics and stunning design, it’s one of the most visually striking buildings in the complex.
What’s Inside?
The Palau de les Arts hosts opera, ballet, and classical music performances, attracting world-class artists and musicians. The interior is just as breathtaking as the exterior, featuring four different performance halls designed for optimal sound quality.
Why Visit?
Attend an opera, ballet, or orchestral concert.
Explore one of the most unique opera houses in the world.
Architectural tours available for those interested in design.
Montolivet Bridge & Assut de l’Or Bridge
These two bridges add to the futuristic aesthetic of the City of Arts and Sciences. The Assut de l’Or Bridge, designed by Santiago Calatrava, features a massive white pylon that resembles a harp. The Montolivet Bridge provides easy access to the complex and offers a great view of the entire area.
Why Visit?
Get panoramic views of the City of Arts and Sciences.
A great spot for photography, especially at night.
A key part of Valencia’s modern urban design.
Why You Should Visit the City of Arts and Sciences
The City of Arts and Sciences isn’t just a collection of futuristic buildings—it’s a symbol of Valencia’s transformation into a global destination for innovation, culture, and entertainment. Whether you’re a science enthusiast, architecture lover, or simply a traveler looking for unique experiences, this incredible complex has something for everyone.
A Must-Visit Destination in Valencia
If you’re planning a trip to Valencia, this is one attraction you can’t afford to miss. Whether you spend a full day exploring its wonders or just admire the architecture from the outside, the City of Arts and Sciences will leave a lasting impression.
Here’s why you should visit:
✅ One-of-a-kind architecture by Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela.
✅ Engaging exhibits that make science and technology fun for all ages.
✅ Unforgettable experiences like walking through Europe’s largest underwater tunnel.
✅ A perfect mix of education and entertainment for families, solo travelers, and couples.
✅ Great photo opportunities—especially at night when the buildings are illuminated.
Plan Your Visit
If you’re inspired to explore this futuristic wonder, here are a few tips to make the most of your visit:
🎟️ Buy tickets in advance – Popular attractions like L’Oceanogràfic can get busy.
🕘 Visit in the morning or late afternoon to avoid crowds and enjoy the best lighting for photos.
🚲 Rent a bike – The Turia Gardens surrounding the complex are perfect for cycling.
🎭 Check for special events – From opera performances to scientific workshops, there’s always something exciting happening.
The City of Arts and Sciences is more than just an attraction—it’s an experience. Whether you come for science, nature, architecture, or entertainment, this futuristic masterpiece will leave you in awe.
The Quart Towers have long stood as symbols of Valencia’s enduring spirit and military strategy. Constructed in the 14th century as a vital part of the city’s defensive walls, they were instrumental during the latter stages of the Reconquista. During this period, the towers served as essential lookout points, enabling defenders to spot and repel Moorish offensives. Their elevated positions provided commanding views of approaching enemy forces, making them indispensable in organizing rapid counterattacks and securing the city’s newly consolidated Christian territories.
During the War of the Two Peters, the towers became even more critical. This conflict pitted the Kingdom of Castile against the Crown of Aragon. Although the war did not end with a single decisive victory, the “Peter” of Aragon ultimately emerged in a stronger position, securing favorable terms and solidifying its influence in the region. Later, during the Spanish War of Independence (1808–1814), the towers once again proved their strategic worth. In this conflict against Napoleonic forces, Spanish resistance—bolstered by British and Portuguese allies—secured a decisive victory that forced the French to withdraw from the peninsula, releasing Spain from Napoleon’s grasp.
This robust construction allowed them to withstand prolonged sieges, ensuring that Valencia’s inhabitants and cultural heritage remained protected. To this day, you can clearly see the scars from these battles on the Quart Towers, which it proudly carries just as mere scratches.
Architectural Features
Built from robust stone with intricate details influenced by Gothic and Renaissance styles, the Quart Towers showcase the engineering excellence of their era. Their enduring design and strategic placement underline innovative medieval construction methods while serving as a captivating example of Valencia’s architectural heritage.
Visitor Information
Conveniently located in Valencia’s historic center, the Quart Towers are easily accessible to both tourists and locals. Guided tours are available, offering immersive experiences that de 7h the towers’ historical context and architectural nuances. With proximity b7 other cultural landmarks, a visit to the Quart Towers provides a well-rounded journey through Valencia’s rich past.
benidNestled along the stunning Costa Blanca, Benidorm is a vibrant city that seamlessly blends traditional Spanish charm with modern allure. Known for its golden beaches, lively nightlife, and iconic skyline adorned with skyscrapers, Benidorm has become a premier destination for travelers seeking both relaxation and excitement.
Sun-Kissed Beaches and Azure Waters
Benidorm boasts two main beaches, Playa de Levante and Playa de Poniente, both awarded the prestigious Blue Flag status for their pristine conditions and top-notch services. Playa de Levante, known as the “Sunrise Beach,” is perfect for early risers wanting to catch the first rays of the sun, while Playa de Poniente, or “Sunset Beach,” offers a tranquil atmosphere ideal for families and those seeking relaxation. Water sports enthusiasts can indulge in activities like jet-skiing, parasailing, and paddleboarding.
Wander through El Casco Antiguo, Benidorm’s historic old town, a charming area characterized by narrow cobblestone streets, whitewashed houses, and vibrant bougainvillea. Visit the Church of San Jaime and Santa Ana, perched atop Canfali Hill, which offers panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea. Don’t miss the Balcony of the Mediterranean (Balcón del Mediterráneo), a stunning viewpoint where the old castle once stood, providing breathtaking vistas of the coastline.
Indulge in Benidorm’s rich gastronomy, heavily influenced by Mediterranean flavors and influx of British holidaymakers. Savor local specialties like Valencianpaella, arroz a banda, and fresh seafood dishes at traditional restaurants. Stroll through the Municipal Market to taste a variety of tapas and sample horchata – a refreshing drink made from tiger nuts – another delicacy from Valencia. For a unique dining experience, visit Calle Santo Domingo, popularly known as “Tapas Alley,” where a plethora of bars offer an array of delicious bites and over-supply of infamous fish and chips.
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Thriving Nightlife and Entertainment
As the sun sets, Benidorm comes alive with an energetic nightlife scene. Head to the Rincón de Loix area for an array of bars and clubs that cater to all musical tastes. Experience world-class entertainment at the Benidorm Palace, renowned for its spectacular cabaret shows featuring music, dance, and acrobatics. For a more laid-back evening, enjoy live music performances at venues along the beachfront or visit the Auditorio Julio Iglesias for cultural events and concerts.
Discover the natural beauty surrounding Benidorm. Hike through the Sierra Helada Natural Park, a protected area offering trails with stunning views of the cliffs and sea. I have a detailed guide to the best hikes around Benidorm.
Take a boat trip to Benidorm Island, a small islet that is a haven for snorkeling enthusiasts and home to diverse marine life. By the way, have you heard about the legend of the origins of Benidrom Island?
Adventure seekers can explore the nearby Algar Waterfalls, where you can swim in crystal-clear pools amidst lush vegetation, or venture to the Guadalest Valley to visit the historic Castell de Guadalest. Whatever is your preference, Benidorm is great for day-trips and activities–thanks to its effective tourism infrastructure, which is always ready to evolve in order to meet the needs of its visitors.
Cultural Festivals & Events
Immerse yourself in local culture by participating in Benidorm’s traditional festivals. In November, the Fiestas Mayores Patronales celebrate the city’s patron saints with vibrant parades, fireworks, and religious ceremonies. June brings the Hogueras de San Juan, a festival marking the arrival of summer with beach bonfires and lively parties. These events offer a glimpse into the rich traditions and communal spirit of the city.
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Family-Friendly Attractions
Benidorm is an ideal destination for families, offering a variety of attractions suitable for all ages. Explore Terra Mítica, a theme park inspired by ancient Mediterranean civilizations, featuring thrilling rides and shows. Cool off at Aqualandia, one of Europe’s largest water parks, boasting exciting slides and pools. Visit Mundomar, a marine and exotic animal park, where you can interact with dolphins, sea lions, and parrots. The Terra Natura Zoo and aqua park provide educational fun with wildlife exhibits and water-based activities.
Shopping and Local Crafts
Shopaholics will delight in Benidorm’s diverse retail options. Visit the La Marina Shopping Center for international brands or explore the Old Town’s boutique shops for local crafts, souvenirs, and fashion. The weekly El Cisne Flea Market is a treasure trove of antiques and vintage items, accompanied by live jazz music and food stalls. Don’t forget to pick up traditional Spanish goods like handcrafted ceramics, leather products, and locally produced wines.
Benidorm offers a wide range of accommodation options, from luxury hotels with sea views to cozy apartments and budget-friendly hostels. Many hotels are located within walking distance of the beach and offer amenities such as pools, spas, and rooftop terraces. Popular choices include the Hotel Melia Benidorm, Gran Hotel Bali, and the boutique-style Hotel Helios.
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Getting Around
The city’s efficient public transport includes buses and taxis, making it easy to navigate. For a unique experience, try the Benidorm Tourist Bus or rent a bicycle to explore at your own pace. The nearby Alicante-Elche Airport connects Benidorm to major European cities, facilitating convenient travel. Car rental services are also available for those wishing to explore the broader Costa Blanca region.
A Mediterranean Destination Like No Other
Benidorm’s unique blend of sun-soaked beaches, rich cultural heritage, vibrant nightlife, and stunning natural landscapes make it a destination that truly has something for everyone. Whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, family fun, or cultural enrichment, this Mediterranean gem promises an unforgettable experience that will leave you eager to return.
All photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots.
Nestled amid the rolling hills of Valencia, Xàtiva is a city where history comes alive at every turn. With its towering Xàtiva Castle overlooking the town, winding medieval streets, and rich cultural heritage, Xàtiva invites you to step back in time and immerse yourself in the legacy of civilizations that have shaped this unique destination.
A City Reborn from Ashes
In 1707, during the War of the Spanish Succession, King Philip V ordered the city to be burned as punishment for its resistance. Demonstrating resilience, the people of Xàtiva rebuilt their city from the ashes. As a symbol of defiance, the local museum displays an upside-down portrait of Philip V—a testament to the unbroken spirit of its inhabitants.
Xàtiva Details
State: Valencian Community
Coordinates: 38.9903° N, 0.5211° W
Distance from Valencia: Approximately 60 km / 37 mi
Founded: Roman era as Saetabis
First mentioned: 2nd century BC
Population: 29,982 (2023)
Area: 76.56 km² / 29.56 mi²
Elevation: 115 m / 377 ft
UNESCO World Heritage Site: The Castle of Xàtiva is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “El Arte Rupestre del Arco Mediterráneo de la Península Ibérica” (1998)
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The Majestic Castle of Xàtiva
Perched atop a steep hill, the Castell de Xàtiva is the crown jewel of the city and a must-visit attraction in Xàtiva. This impressive fortress, with origins dating back to Iberian and Roman times, offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Wander through its ancient walls, explore hidden passages, and imagine the historical events that unfolded within this stone stronghold.
No visit to Xàtiva is complete without exploring the Castell de Xàtiva. This hilltop fortress, with origins in Iberian and Roman times, provides breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. Highlights of the castle include:
The Keep: Offering the best panoramic views of the region.
Roman Cisterns: Ancient water storage systems that tell the tale of early engineering.
Prison Towers: Eerie reminders of the castle’s role as a place of confinement.
Birthplace of the Borgias
Xàtiva holds the distinguished honor of being the birthplace of two popes from the infamous Borgia family: Pope Callixtus III and Pope Alexander VI. Their legacy is woven into the fabric of the city, with numerous landmarks and stories highlighting their influence during the Renaissance period. Visiting Xàtiva provides a unique opportunity to delve into the intriguing history of the Borgias. Follow the Borgia Trail to uncover their influence on the city:\
Birthplace of Pope Alexander VI: Marked by a commemorative plaque.
The Church of Sant Francesc: This historic church is associated with the Borgias and is a key stop on the trail, offering insights into their religious and political power during the Renaissance.
The Collegiate Basilica of Santa Maria (La Seu)
Located in the heart of the city, the Collegiate Basilica of Santa Maria is a stunning example of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Admire its intricate façade, climb the bell tower for a bird’s-eye view of the city, and explore its interior treasures, including:
The Main Altar: Featuring intricate carvings and paintings.
Religious Relics: Artifacts that showcase Xàtiva’s deep-rooted faith.
More Things to Do & to See in Xàtiva
Founded as a royal hospital by Jaume I in 1244 and rebuilt centuries later, it is one of the most beautiful and interesting monuments in Xàtiva. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Royal Hospital
Built in the 15th century, the Royal Hospital of Xàtiva is a testament to medieval healthcare and philanthropy. Its elegant cloisters and well-preserved chapel provide insight into the city’s commitment to caring for its residents.
The Museum of Fine Arts (Casa de l’Ensenyança)
Art enthusiasts will appreciate the Museum of Fine Arts, housed in a former 18th-century school building. This museum features:
The Upside-Down Portrait of Philip V: A symbol of defiance after the city was burned in 1707.
Art by José de Ribera: The renowned painter known as “Lo Spagnoletto.”
Local Artifacts: Showcasing the cultural and historical evolution of Xàtiva.
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The Almodí Museum
For a deep dive into Xàtiva’s archaeological and historical roots, visit the Almodí Museum, housed in a former grain exchange. Key exhibits include:
Artifacts from Iberian and Roman Times: Tools, pottery, and sculptures that trace the city’s ancient origins.
Medieval Coins and Manuscripts: Offering a glimpse into Xàtiva’s role as a regional economic hub.
The Legacy of Paper Production: Learn about Xàtiva’s pioneering role in European papermaking using techniques introduced by the Moors. Xàtiva established one of the first paper mills on the continent. This innovation played a crucial role in the spread of knowledge throughout the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, cementing Xàtiva’s place in European papermaking history.
Plaza del Mercado and Historic Center
Stroll through the Plaza del Mercado, a lively square surrounded by historic buildings, quaint cafés, and traditional shops. Nearby, you’ll find:
The Church of Sant Feliu: A small but charming Romanesque church with a serene atmosphere.
Palace of Alarcón: A well-preserved aristocratic residence reflecting Renaissance architectural styles.
The Fountain Route
Xàtiva is famous for its numerous historic fountains. Follow the Fountain Route to discover:
Fuente del León (Lion Fountain): A striking landmark in the city center.
Fuente de la Trinidad: One of the oldest Gothic fountains in Spain.
Font dels 25 Dolls: A unique fountain with 25 spouts, showcasing intricate craftsmanship.
Culinary Delights
Indulge in the city’s renowned Valencian cuisine at local restaurants and markets. Don’t miss:
Arròs al Forn (Baked Rice): A hearty dish featuring local ingredients.
Arnadí: A sweet dessert made from pumpkin and almonds, perfect for satisfying your sweet tooth.
Local Wines: Pair your meal with wines from the nearby Valencia wine region, known for its quality vintages.
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Practical Information
Getting There: Xàtiva is easily accessible by train from Valencia, with regular services making it a convenient day trip. The journey offers scenic views of the Spanish countryside.
Accommodation: Options range from historic hotels in the city center to charming rural houses in the surrounding countryside. Staying overnight allows you to experience the city’s ambiance after the day-trippers have left.
Best Time to Visit: While enjoyable year-round, visiting during the Fira de Xàtiva in August offers a unique cultural experience. Spring and autumn also provide pleasant weather for exploring.
Personal Experience
I think Xàtiva, together with Sagunt and Peñíscola, are three of the most interesting historical towns in the Valencian Community, with its castle potentially being the most impressive archeological ruins of its category. Therefore, Xàtiva is more than a pretty tourist destination; it’s a journey through centuries of history, culture, and natural beauty. From the iconic Xàtiva Castle to the tranquil Fountain Route, every corner of this Valencian gem tells a story. Whether you’re an adventurer, a history buff, or a foodie, Xàtiva has something for you.
Most of the hiking routes listed in this article are just sections of the PR-CV 355 hiking trail between Port Javea and El Montgo Peak. You might as well just do it, but for those less fitted, or not being able to spare a day for such a trail, there are more accessible options. Actually, everything except getting the names right is easy Cap de Sant Antoni.
This natural marvel is named after the same saint as a famous city in Texas San Antonio, which is the Spanish name. The most common name – Cap Sant Antoni – is in the local Valenciano language, but it is also known in English as Saint Anthony’s Cape or Cape San Antonio, and in Spanish: Cabo San Antonio). In case you get confused it is all the same thing. The good part, as I said, everything else is simple, especially, getting good vistas with little to no effort. Though some cliffs of the Cape rise about 150 m / 500 ft above the sea level, the Cape is very flat. Walking here is a breeze, especially if you start hiking from one of the parking spaces on top of Cap de Sant Antoni.
Cap de Sant Antoni Details
Location: Spain
Region: Valencia
Main hub: Javea & Denia
Distance from Alicante: 90km / 55.92mi
Distance from Valencia: 105km / 65.24mi
Distance from Benidorm: 55km / 34.18mi
Area: 1.1 km² / 0.42 mi²
Lat/Lon: 38°47’30″N 0°11’41”E
Highest point: Cap de Sant Antoni (170 m / 557 ft)
Situated on the plateau of Cap de San Antoni, this circular hike suits almost everyone. Given the easy access via Denia-Javea CV-736, it offers almost free exceptional vistas that would otherwise require a steep climb. Molins Circular Hike offers amazing views towards both sides of the cape, with its crown jewel being the mesmerizing view towards Javea from the windmill area.
Pro tip: Make a small detour on Denia’s side to a beautiful viewpoint: Mirador del Cuni.
Hike Details
Distance: 5.5km / 3.4mi
Duration: 1h30-2h00
Difficulty: Easy
Color: Yellow
Type: Circular
Route: Aparcamiento Merendero – Mirador del Cuni – Els Molins – Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles
Not really a hiking trail but rather just a section of it, but arguably the best part of it. Especially if you add a little twist to it and walk off the main road to an unnamed viewpoint, which offers the best views of the tip of Cap de Sant Antoni itself I’ve managed to find so far. The quality of the road is not as good as Molins Circular Hike which could be done from the same parking, but it is flat, thus suitable for most of people. If you don’t have much time to explore, this might be the route to make a good impression of what Cap de Sant Antoni has to offer in general.
The signature hike of Javea from the port part of the town climbs Cap de Sant Antoni which is, after all, much closer to Javea than it is to Denia. Many locals and visitors of the town climb the cape each day, and so do the large houses of the super-rich living, or, at least, owning properties in otherwise protected areas. Javea missed the opportunity to preserve its side of the cape but luckily the hike goes through the remote untouched section of the last terrain of the Baetic mountains systems before it sinks into the deep sea and remerges again only in the Balearic Islands. Port Javea – Cap de Sant Antoni is a great nature getaway from an otherwise busy area.
Cova Tallada is a cave system by the Mediterranean Sea below high cliffs of Cap Sant Antoni. Might be the crown jewel of the whole area, I even did this hike on my Spain road trip when I had no idea what Denia or Marina Alta is. This rather short hikes is by no means for everyone – being able to tolerate heights and good shoes is the minimum requirement. Nevertheless, the hike to Cova Tallada is a very popular among tourists and locals alike. Due to some people not being able to keep even the simplest safety rules, the access to the hike is limited during peak seasons.
Pro tip: Cova Tallada is a great snorkeling spot
Hike Details
Distance: 1km / 0.62mi
Duration: 30-40min
Difficulty: Easy/Moderate Depending on season and experience
A small climb from the same location in Les Rotes as the Cova Tallada route starts. This is the shortest hike on the list, though be cautious – even given the wee distance and a relatively good road – it is a steep climb to Torre del Gerro. I wouldn’t suggest attempting the hike on a hot day unless you know what you’re doing. From Torre del Gerro beautiful vistas open towards Denia and its coast. Other hiking trails connect Torre del Gerro with Cova Tallada and Cap Sant Antoni.
Hike Details
Distance: 1km / 0.62mi
Ascend: ± 120m / 400 ft
Duration: 20-30min x2
Difficulty: Easy/Moderate Depending on season and time of date
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Torre del Gerro – Cap de Sant Antoni – Altomira
This hike leads from one area of Denia through Cap de Sant Antoni to another, to be more precise from coastal Les Rotes to the highest part of the Montgo neighborhood. Adding an extra 1 or 2 km it is possible to connect the hike into a full circle. The route includes beautiful vistas of Cap de Sant Antoni, Les Rotes, Denia, and El Montgo. This is not an official hike and runs through sections of Torre del Gerro – Molins, PR-CV 355, and Cami de Colonia in the el Montgo hiking area.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
La Vall de Gallinera, nestled in the picturesque Marina Alta region of Spain, is a hidden gem waiting to be explored. Even given a tough competition, this enchanting valley, composed of eight quaint villages, Benialí, Benirrama, Benitaia, Benissivà, La Carroja, Alpatró, Llombai, and Benissili, might be the most beautiful area in all of Marina Alta’s inland. Each village, with its own distinct character and charm, paints a picture of a region rich in history and cultural heritage. From the Moorish legacy evident in the terraced agricultural landscapes to the ancient castles perched dramatically on hilltops, La Vall de Gallinera is a testament to the layers of history that have shaped this area.
Visitors are drawn to the region not only for its historical significance but also for its natural beauty. Surrounded by the soaring peaks of the Sierra de Foradada, the valley is a haven for nature enthusiasts and hikers alike, offering a plethora of trails that wind through lush cherry orchards and aromatic pine forests. The area is especially picturesque in spring when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, casting a pink hue over the landscape and infusing the air with their delicate fragrance.
Choosing to visit La Vall de Gallinera means stepping off the beaten path to discover the authentic heart of Spain. Whether you’re interested in delving into the rich tapestry of its past, exploring the stunning natural landscape, or simply relaxing in a peaceful village setting, this valley has something for everyone. So come and experience the serene beauty and rich history of La Vall de Gallinera, where every corner holds a story waiting to be uncovered.
History of La Vall de Gallinera
Vall de Gallinera, located in the Marina Alta district of Alicante, Spain, traces its human activity back to the Neolithic period, as evidenced by archaeological discoveries such as pottery fragments and lithic tools in local caves. These early artifacts suggest that the area’s rich resources have been continuously exploited by various cultures. Notably, during the Bronze Age, the strategic location of Vall de Gallinera on elevated terrain made it an ideal settlement for defense and observation, which is reflected in the remains of fortifications found in the area.
With the arrival of the Moors in the 8th century, Vall de Gallinera entered a period of agricultural innovation and prosperity. The Moors introduced complex irrigation systems, known as “acequias,” that captured and redirected water from mountain streams to the terraced fields below, a system that significantly enhanced the agricultural output and is still visible in the landscape today. The Moors also left their mark with the construction of the “Ràfol de Salem,” a notable fortification that served as a defensive and administrative center. This period lasted until the Christian reconquest in the late 15th century, when Vall de Gallinera was integrated into the Crown of Aragon, and the Moorish population was either expelled or converted under coercive conditions, dramatically altering the demographic and cultural landscape.
In modern times, Vall de Gallinera is known not just for its historical significance but also for its cultural heritage, particularly the annual “Festes de les Danses,” which includes a series of traditional dances that are thought to have Moorish origins. The local economy, while still heavily reliant on agriculture—particularly the cultivation of cherries, olives, and almonds—has expanded to include eco-tourism, with many visitors drawn to the preserved medieval architecture, the extensive network of hiking trails, and the panoramic views of the Mediterranean landscape. This blend of deep historical layers and preserved natural beauty makes Vall de Gallinera a unique study in the continuity and change of a Mediterranean rural community through the ages.
Best time to visit: Late spring to early summer (May to June) for the cherry blossom season, and early autumn (September to October) for hiking and experiencing the harvest.
Festivals: The Cherry Blossom Festival (April); and the Moors and Christians Festival (July)
The best part of the villages found in the valley is that there are eight of them. From Benirrama to Benissili, each of them has something unique to offer. La Vall de Gallinera just seems to be created by higher forces to fit picturesque villages.
Famous for its stunning views of the surrounding mountains, Benirrama is a haven for photographers and nature lovers. The remains of an ancient Moorish castle sit atop the hill, offering a glimpse into the area’s historical strategic importance.
Benialí
This village serves as the administrative heart of the valley. Known for its well-preserved medieval architecture, Benialí boasts narrow, winding streets and traditional stone houses. The 16th-century Church of St. Michael the Archangel stands as a historical centerpiece, drawing visitors with its blend of Gothic and Baroque styles.
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Benissivà
As one of the valley’s smallest villages, Benissivà is renowned for its intimate atmosphere and the 17th-century Palace of the Counts of Sáfor, which now serves as a museum displaying local history and culture.
Benitaia
Benitaia is a small village known for its rustic charm and the beautiful Church of Santa Ana. The village’s layout reflects its Moorish past, with a labyrinth of alleys that evoke a sense of timelessness.
La Carroja
This village is the agricultural hub of the valley, surrounded by lush orchards and farmlands. La Carroja is particularly picturesque in the spring when the cherry trees are in bloom.
Alpatró
Known for its artisanal products, especially the local honey, Alpatró is a village where tradition and craftsmanship are alive and well. The main square and the Church of Saint James the Apostle are the focal points of village life.
Llombai
Llombai is a quiet village that offers a peaceful retreat from the more touristy spots in the valley. Its landscapes are dominated by olive groves and almond trees, reflecting the area’s agricultural heritage.
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Benissili
Perched on a rugged hillside, Benissili is the most dramatic of the valley’s villages. The ruins of an ancient castle loom over the village, and the area is rife with hiking trails that offer spectacular views of the valley below.
La Vall de Gallinera is a paradise for hikers, offering a variety of trails that cater to all levels of fitness and experience. Here are some of the best hiking trails in the area.
A more extensive trail that connects all eight villages of La Vall de Gallinera. This hike is perfect for those looking to explore the cultural and natural beauty of the region. It’s a longer route, about 19 km / 11.8 mi, and can take around 6 to 8 hours to complete.
Benissili Castle Trail
This short but steep trail leads to the ruins of Benissili Castle, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The trail is about 2 km / 1.2 mi round trip and takes approximately 1.5 hours to complete.
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La Carroja to Alpatró Circular Walk
This gentle circular walk connects the villages of La Carroja and Alpatró, winding through cherry orchards and farmlands. It’s a pleasant walk of around 8 km / 5 mi, which takes about 2 to 3 hours to complete.
Forada Peak has an iconic arc though which sun is visible at certain point of the day during equinox from the old Convent of Benitaia. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
La Forada Hike
There are two options to reach the most iconic peak of Vall de Gallinera: One option is literally and figuratively straightforward, and the other includes a circular educational trail. The latter route circles around the striking Penya Forada rock formation, providing stunning views and a chance to explore the local flora and fauna. The hike is around 10 km / 6.2 mi and takes about 4 hours to complete.
The other option is a moderate hike leading straight to the iconic Forada Peak, known for its distinctive hole through the mountain. The trail offers spectacular views of the valley and is particularly beautiful during sunrise or sunset. The hike is approximately 5 km / 3.1 mi round trip and takes about 3 hours to complete.
How to Get to La Vall de Gallinera
Reaching La Vall de Gallinera is an adventure in itself, offering various modes of transportation that cater to different preferences.
By Car
Driving is the most convenient way to explore La Vall de Gallinera, providing the freedom to visit each village at your own pace. From Alicante, take the AP-7 motorway towards Valencia, then switch to the CV-700. The scenic drive through the mountains offers stunning views and the journey takes approximately 1.5 hours. Parking is available in each of the villages, though it can be limited during peak tourist seasons
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By Bike
For the more adventurous, cycling to La Vall de Gallinera is a rewarding experience that offers a closer connection to the landscape. The region’s winding roads and steep inclines are a challenge but offer unparalleled views and a sense of accomplishment. Be prepared for a strenuous ride, especially during the summer months, and always carry sufficient water and sun protection.
Personal Experience
Vall de Gallinera is among my favorites in the region. It beats my second top location of Marina Alta inland – Vall de Laguar, and is definitely on par with the best destinations of coastal areas of this exotic Comarca of Spain. When putting together a list of points of interest in the areas around Denia for my friends, I always include Vall de Gallinera. I don’t know if it is just me, but terraced landscapes tend to steal my heart completely. Not to mention the picturesque cherry, olive, and various citrus trees growing in the area.
In Vall de Gallinera, everything is so packed, that it really doesn’t matter if you come here for picturesque villages, vegetation blossoms, hikes, or beautiful vistas in general, you’ll get everything zipped into a pack anyway. This makes this beautiful crown jewel of Marina Alta inland a particularly attractive destination, whether you are a tourist or a local. I personally, enjoy my every visit to Vall de Gallinera, therefore I couldn’t recommend it more to anyone visiting the region.
Nestled along the Mediterranean coast, the charming city of Denia comes alive every March with the vibrant and fiery festival of Fallas, marking one of Spain’s most unique and spirited celebrations. Inscribed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2016, this dazzling event transforms many cities across the region into a canvas of colossal effigies, fiery displays, and communal joy, showcasing a tradition steeped in creativity, satire, and the welcoming of spring. While Valencia may be the heartland of the Fallas festivities, Denia, with its own distinctive charm and fervor, offers a compelling experience that mirrors the grandeur and intensity of its larger counterpart yet maintains an intimate community feel.
The Fallas in Denia 2024 promises an unforgettable spectacle, inviting locals and visitors alike to immerse themselves in a cultural phenomenon that blends ancient customs with contemporary artistry. As a testament to the enduring bond between Denia and its ancestral traditions, the festival not only honors the town’s heritage but also serves as a dynamic platform for social commentary and artistic expression. From the intricate design of the fallas (monumental sculptures) to the exhilarating burst of fireworks lighting up the night sky, every element of the festival is a tribute to the creativity, ingenuity, and spirited communal life of Denia.
Fallas in Denia has a unique flavor of its own, the festival in the Capital of Marina Alta is a particularly attractive location for the popular Valencian festivity because the sculptures are burned one by one. This way, allows curious people to enjoy the spectacle in all parts of town bit by bit. Whether you’re drawn to the spectacle for its artistic merits, the thrill of the pyrotechnics, or the warmth of community gatherings, the Fallas festival in Denia offers a rich tapestry of experiences that resonate with the essence of Spanish festivity and tradition.
A Brief History of Fallas Denia
The roots of the Fallas festival in Denia, much like those in the rest of the Valencian Community, intertwine deeply with the region’s history, blending medieval customs, pagan rituals, and Christian celebrations into a vibrant tapestry of cultural expression. Originally, Fallas began as a feast day for St. Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters, marking the arrival of spring with the burning of waste materials and old wooden items collected during the winter. This act of purification and renewal, over centuries, evolved into the elaborate festival we witness today, characterized by the creation and destruction of fallas – elaborate sculptures that are as satirical as they are spectacular.
Denia’s adaptation of this tradition has grown in scale and complexity, reflecting both local and global themes through its fallas. These towering figures, crafted with incredible skill and wit, fill the city’s squares and streets, turning Denia into an open-air museum of ephemeral art. Each falla is a marvel of design, engineering, and artistry, representing months of dedication by local artists and communities. They often depict scenes of social, political, and cultural commentary, providing insight into contemporary issues with humor and creativity.
The festival’s crescendo, the ‘Nit de la Cremà’ (Night of the Burning), sees these magnificent sculptures consumed by flames in a symbolic act of regeneration and rebirth. This spectacular finale, lit against the backdrop of Denia’s historic landscapes and Mediterranean charm, is a poignant reminder of the cycle of life and the impermanence of art.
Through periods of prohibition and revival, the Fallas festival has persisted, embodying the resilience and adaptability of the Valencian spirit. Even during the Franco regime, when regional languages and traditions were suppressed, Fallas found a way to endure, adapting its forms of expression to ensure its survival. Today, recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the Fallas festival stands as a testament to the community’s commitment to its cultural legacy, celebrating not just the arrival of spring but also the enduring power of creativity and community. In Denia, the Fallas festival is more than just a series of events; it is a communal act of creation, celebration, and renewal, deeply woven into the fabric of the city’s identity.
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Main events: The Plantà (March 11-16), La Ofrenda (March 17-18), Nit de la Cremà (March 19)
Fallas Denia Map
Where to Stay?
Having experienced the Fallas festival in Denia, it’s clear the entire city vibrates with the festival’s energy, especially during this period. Your accommodation choice should depend on what you’re looking to get out of your visit. If you’re here to dive deep into the festivities, staying close to the city center will keep you near the heart of the action. For those primarily interested in the ‘Nit de la Cremà’ and don’t mind a bit of travel, options outside the center could also work well. Denia’s local transportation, including buses and taxis, efficiently accommodates the influx of visitors, ensuring you’re never too far from the festival’s highlights.
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Fallas Denia 2024 Schedule
The Fallas in Denia 2024 promises an array of events filled with tradition, art, and community spirit. To help you navigate through the festivities, here’s a breakdown of the schedule:
Week 1
Thursday, February 8
19:00: Opening of the Fallas clubhouses
19:30: Visit of the judging panel to the clubhouses participating in the decorated clubhouses prize
Saturday, February 10
18:15: Gathering of the Fallas commissions, Local Fallas Board, major Falleras of Dénia, and courts of honor on Federico García Lorca street.
18:30: Visit of the major Falleras of Dénia, courts of honor, Local Fallas Board, and commissions to the clubhouses of the Fallas Camp Roig, Campaments, Darrere del Castell, Les Roques, and Baix la Mar, and Fallas announcements
Week 2
Thursday, February 15
19:30: Visit of the judging panel to the clubhouses participating in the decorated clubhouses prize
Friday, February 16
10:30 to 13:00 and 16:00 to 19:00: Reception of Ninots participants of the Ninot Exhibition at Casa de la Marquesa Valero de Palma
19:45: Gathering of the Fallas commissions, Local Fallas Board, major Falleras of Dénia, and courts of honor in Valgamediós Square.
18:30: Visit of the major Falleras of Dénia, courts of honor, Local Fallas Board, and commissions to the clubhouses of the Fallas West, Center, Port Rotes, Diana, Saladar, and Paris Pedrera, and Fallas announcements
Saturday, February 17
17:45: Gathering of the Fallas officials 2024 at the end of Marqués de Campo street
18:00: Parade to the Ninot Exhibition
18:30: Opening of the Ninot Exhibition 2024 at Casa de la Marquesa
20:00: Crida by the major Falleras of Dénia, Mar Moncho Roselló and Candela Marco Jiménez, and proclamation, in Constitució square
21:00: Fallera Gala Dinner with the award of the 2024 Exemplary Fallero distinction and awards of JLF and JCF at L’Androna Multiespai Room.
Sunday, February 18
18:30: Children’s Fallera Gala with the awards of JLF and JCF. Afterwards, snack for the attending children.
Week 3
Pause
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Week 4
March 1 to 14
14:00: Tir de carcasses (firecracker event)
Saturday, March 2
13:00: Dinar de Germanor (Brotherhood meal) in Torrecremada, and awarding of the Best Fallas Ban, Best Fallas Presentations, Best Showcase, Best Presenters, Best Keepers, Child’s Pardoned Ninot, and Adult’s Pardoned Ninot
Sunday, March 3
12:00: Concert by the Artistic Musical Group of Dénia, at the crossroads of Saladar Av. and Diana St.
Week 5
Wednesday, March 6
09:45 to 13:30 and 16:45 to 20:30: Fallera blood donation in Llunàtics Multipurpose Room.
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20:00: First Night of Serenades to the major Falleras of Dénia in the following order:
Major Falleras of Dénia – Plaza de la Constitució (Constitution Square)
Falla Les Roques
Falla West
Falla Campaments
Falla Behind the Castle
Falla Baix la Mar
Friday, March 15
10:00: Breakfast in the Fallas areas
10:00: The FFMM, Mar Moncho Roselló and Candela Marco Jiménez, will welcome visitors at the Tourist Office of Oculist Buigues square
14:00: Tir de carcasses (firecracker event) and Plantà meal in the Fallas neighborhoods
20:00: Second Night of Serenades:
Falla Camp Roig
Falla Paris-Pedrera
Falla Saladar
Falla Diana
Falla Port Rotes
Falla Center
Saturday, March 16
08:00: Planting of the Fallas monuments in the different districts of the city
10:00: Breakfast in all the Fallas districts
12:30: Planting of the Local Fallas Board’s Falla in Consell Square
14:00: Tir de carcasses (firecracker event) and Plantà meal in the Fallas neighborhoods
18:00: Courtesy visit of the major Falleras of Dénia, Courts of Honor, and Local Fallas Board to the Fallas districts in the following order:
Falla Les Roques
Falla Baix la Mar
Falla Behind the Castle
Falla Campaments
Falla West
Falla Camp Roig
Falla Paris-Pedrera
Falla Saladar
Falla Diana
Falla Port Rotes
Falla Center
21:00: Plantà dinner
22:00: Announcement rockets for the Night of the Planting
Denia Fallas Main Event
Sunday, March 17- La Ofrenda
07:00: Wake-up call in the Fallas areas
08:00: Visit of the judging panel to the Fallas
09:00: Visit of the rest of the juries
10:45: Gathering of all the commissions in the Town Hall Square
11:00: Tribute to the major Falleras of Dénia and to the major Falleras of Les Roques, Behind the Castle, and Baix la Mar
13:00: Awarding of children’s prizes at the Town Hall
14:00: Mascletà in the different Fallas districts
18:15: Gathering of all the commissions on Patricio Ferrándiz street.
18:30: Homages to the major Falleras of Paris Pedrera, Camp Roig, Campaments, and West
20:30: Awarding of the prizes for the big Fallas 2024 at the Town Hall
23:00: Festivals in the Fallas districts
Monday, March 18 – La Ofrenda
07:00: Wake-up call in the Fallas areas
11:15: Gathering of all the commissions in Consell square
11:30: Tribute to the major Falleras of Center, Port Rotes, Diana, and Saladar
14:00: Mascletà in the Fallas districts
20:30: Mascletà in Jaume I Square
23:00: Festivals in the Fallas districts
Tuesday, March 19 – St. Joseph’s Day
07:00: Wake-up call in the Fallas areas
08:00: Children’s wake-up call
10:00: Parades in the Fallas areas
11:00: Mass in honor of St. Joseph at the Church of the Assumption
11:00: Flower offering in honor of la Virgen de los Desamparados (the Virgin of the Forsaken). Route: Marqués de Campo St., Diana St., Magallanes, Convent Sq.
14:30: Mascletàs in the Fallas districts
18:00: Parades in the Fallas districts
19:00: Reception for the new presidents for the 2024-2025 period in the Town Hall Square
Burning Times of the Fallas Dénia 2024
20:00: Burning of the Local Fallas Board of Dénia’s Falla
As the festive season approaches, the Marina Alta region in Spain becomes a canvas for a heartwarming tradition that has been cherished for generations – the display of Betlems, or nativity scenes. This tradition, deeply rooted in the Valencian Community, just as it is Spanish culture in general. Nevertheless, each region has its own quirks and taste to approach this long-standing tradition. You’ll find a unique expression in the towns of Marina Alta, where each Betlem is not just a depiction of the Nativity story but a reflection of the community’s artistic flair and dedication.
The Origin and Significance of Betlems in Spanish Culture
The practice of setting up nativity scenes, or ‘Beléns’ as they are known in Spanish, or ‘Betlems’ as they are known locally in Valenciano language, dates back to the 13th century. St. Francis of Assisi is credited with creating the first nativity scene in 1223, aiming to cultivate the worship of Christ. From this humble beginning in Italy, the tradition spread to Spain, where it evolved over centuries to become an integral part of the Christmas celebration.
In Marina Alta, this tradition takes on a local flavor. Each town brings its own history, culture and local crafts to life through these intricate displays. The Betlems are more than just religious symbols; they are a showcase of craftsmanship and a focal point for community gatherings during the holiday season. Marina Alta, and Spain in general, is crazy about miniature nativity scenes, just with a rather odd twist. It evolved in a strange way – that baby Jesus is not the main superstar bur rather ‘the pooper’, or locally known as ‘El Caganer’. These rather odd figures appear even in the local Nativity Scenes in churches, though always on the furthest corner fro the baby Jesus. Their origin is unknown, some guess that they symbolize the fertilization of the land, but knowing the fun character of Spanish people my bet would be that ‘the popper’ is just a prank gone wild.
The Uniqueness of Marina Alta’s Betlems
What sets the Betlems of Marina Alta apart is their . These nativity scenes are not just displays; they are stories told through art, capturing the essence of the region’s rich cultural tapestry. The use of local materials like wood, clay, and textiles, and the incorporation of scenes depicting traditional Spanish life, make each Betlem a unique piece of art.
As we delve deeper into the world of Marina Alta’s Betlems, we find ourselves immersed in a tradition that beautifully intertwines religious reverence with artistic expression and community spirit. In the following section, we will explore some of the most popular nativity scenes in Marina Alta, each with its own story and charm.
El Vergel’s nativity scene, a tradition for nearly 30 years, is a marvel of community effort. Each piece, crafted by local volunteers, reflects their dedication and affection. The scene has evolved over time, featuring realistic mountains mimicking local landscapes like the Serra de Segària, historical period houses made from plaster and cardboard, and unique handcrafted figures. This Betlem is a vivid portrayal of the Christmas story, intertwined with El Vergel’s rich community life and creative spirit
Denia offers a unique twist by situating its nativity scene by the sea. This maritime Betlem, complete with fishing boats and sea-related elements, reflects Denia’s close relationship with the Mediterranean. The sound of waves gently lapping against the shore adds a serene and contemplative ambiance to the traditional nativity story.
Xàbia’s nativity scene is a testament to traditional Spanish craftsmanship. Using local materials and age-old techniques, this Betlem is a homage to the enduring nature of Spanish Christmas traditions. The detailed figurines, dressed in period attire, and the realistic miniature buildings offer a glimpse into the historical lifestyle of Marina Alta.
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Pego
Pego’s Betlem is a true historic gem, featuring main figures that are over a century old, originally part of the Franciscan nuns’ nativity scene. These figures, rich in history, were donated to the town when the nuns left about two decades ago. The Associació Betlemista de Pego, led by Salvador Miralles, Pepe Mengual, and Abril Sendra, played a pivotal role in the Betlem’s restoration. This meticulous handwork, coupled with new figures crafted from recycled materials or hand-painted, represents a blend of tradition and innovation. Notable aspects include hand-restored main figures, structures made from cork and other recycled materials, and small details like fruits, vegetables, and doves crafted from cold porcelain. Additionally, the Betlem features elements that replicate real geographic locations in Pego, adding a layer of local charm and authenticity.
This town won’t miss a chance to entertain its visitors and inhabitants. Here, Nativity Scenes lines-up into a long list of things to do in Calpe. Naturally, Calpe respects its long standing culture and history, and maintains tradition of Betlems, just with a twist. Calpe’s Nativity Scene stands out with its interactive nativity scene, where visitors can walk through and experience the story of Jesus’ birth up close. This engaging approach, combined with live performances on certain days, makes Calpe’s Betlem a lively and immersive experience for all ages.
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Personal Experience
My December visit to Marina Alta offered a unique glimpse into the rich tapestry of Christmas traditions, where each town’s Betlem, or nativity scene, was not just a display but a vibrant narrative of culture, faith, and community. As I meandered through the region, each Betlem I encountered was a testament to local artistry and tradition. In Pego, the meticulous craftsmanship and lighting of the scene were spellbinding, weaving a story of hope and joy. Vergel’s nativity scene, lovingly crafted by local artisans, radiated a warm sense of community, reflecting the stories and spirit of its creators.
What struck me most was the diversity and uniqueness of each town’s interpretation of the Nativity story. From traditional materials to scenes depicting local life, every Betlem I saw was deeply rooted in the region’s history and cultural heritage. This journey through Marina Alta’s nativity scenes was more than just a festive tour; it was an immersion into the heart and soul of the region. The Betlems stand as vibrant expressions of the communities’ culture and faith, leaving me with not only memories of their beauty but a profound appreciation of the traditions that unify Marina Alta.
Nestled on the sun-kissed coast of Spain, Calpe beckons with its rich tapestry of history and natural beauty. This charming town, cradled by the majestic Penon de Ifach, has witnessed the ebb and flow of civilizations for over 3,000 years. The Phoenicians, known for their seafaring prowess, were among the earliest to leave their mark, drawn to this region by the same rock formation that today stands as a symbol of Calpe’s enduring allure. As they navigated the Iberian shores, they referred to the Penon de Ifach as the “rock of the north,” contrasting it with the renowned rock of Gibraltar, then known as Mons Calpe. These early settlers saw in Calpe’s rugged landscape a mirror to their other settlements across the Mediterranean, leaving behind a legacy that whispers through the town’s ancient streets.
Calpe’s story is further enriched by the footprints of the Greeks and Romans. The Greeks, in their vast explorations, recognized the unique geological formations like Penon de Ifach, terming them ‘Calpe,’ a name resonating with descriptions of large stand-alone rocks. This connection to the ancient world hints at a deeper, possibly pre-Roman, history of the town, suggesting an intriguing blend of cultures over the millennia. The Romans, captivated by Calpe’s strategic location and natural beauty, established a settlement that has grown into a treasure trove of historical wonders. Baños de la Reina, a testament to Roman ingenuity with its well-preserved mosaics and hydraulic systems, stands as a silent witness to the town’s vibrant past. These ancient ruins, now nestled between the iconic Penon de Ifach and Calpe’s bustling city center, offer a portal to a time when Romans appreciated the natural splendors of this enchanting land, a sentiment that continues to resonate with modern visitors. Today, the city enjoys a huge interest from foreigners and locals alike resulting in rapid growth in size and attractions.
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1. Visit Peñón de Ifach
Standing as a natural sentinel over Calpe, the Peñón de Ifach is an obvious number-one activity for any great outdoors enthusiast visiting the area. This towering limestone formation, soaring 332 m / 1,089 ft above the sea, is not only an iconic symbol of the region but also a haven for nature enthusiasts and hikers. The climb to the top, though steep and challenging, rewards visitors with breathtaking panoramic views of Calpe’s coastline and the vast Mediterranean Sea. Along the way, hikers are likely to encounter a rich variety of local flora and fauna, including rare bird species. The summit offers a unique opportunity to appreciate the beauty of the Costa Blanca from an unparalleled vantage point, making this experience a memorable highlight of any trip to Calpe. The views from the top of the rock of Calpe are so exceptionally beautiful that many people are trying to hit above their class by climbing the mountain. If you are not sure you are fit for the task, you can read more about it in my guide to the Penon de Ifach hike.
The central walls of the bastion in the middle of Calpe were built somewhere between the 13th and 14th centuries to protect local farmers from Muslim attacks. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
2. Visit the Historic Old Town
Calpe’s Historic Old Town is a vibrant tapestry of history and culture, offering a journey back in time through its narrow, winding streets. This charming quarter is a mosaic of ancient stone buildings, colorful murals, and Gothic churches, each telling its own story of the town’s rich past. As you wander through these quaint lanes, you’ll discover hidden plazas and delightful cafés, perfect for soaking in the local atmosphere. The Torreó de la Peça, an old defense tower, now serves as a cultural symbol of the town’s resilience through the ages. The blend of Moorish and Spanish architecture is a visual feast, and the artisan shops scattered throughout the area offer unique, handcrafted souvenirs. A visit to the old town is not just a walk through Calpe’s history, but an immersive experience in the living heart of this enchanting Spanish town. If you want to learn more about this topic, I have a separate article where I focus purely on the Old Town and the rich history of Calpe and the region.
3. Enjoy Sunset on a Boat Cruise
There’s no more enchanting way to end a day in Calpe than by embarking on a sunset boat cruise. As the sun dips below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of orange, pink, and purple, the Mediterranean Sea turns into a glittering canvas of colors. Aboard the cruise, you can feel the gentle sea breeze and hear the soothing sound of the waves, creating a serene and romantic atmosphere. It’s an ideal setting for photography enthusiasts, capturing the silhouette of the Peñón de Ifach against the fiery sky. Cruises include amenities like light refreshments or dinner, allowing you to savor local flavors while you float along the coast. This magical experience not only offers a different perspective of Calpe’s stunning coastline but also provides a tranquil moment to reflect on the day’s adventures.
4. See Great Flamingos in Les Salinas de Calpe
A visit to Les Salinas de Calpe offers a unique wildlife experience right in the heart of the town. This natural saltwater lagoon, a remnant of ancient salt mining traditions, has become a sanctuary for a variety of bird species, most notably the elegant flamingos. These iconic birds, with their vibrant pink plumage and graceful movements, create a picturesque scene against the backdrop of the lagoon and the distant Peñón de Ifach. Bird watchers and nature lovers can stroll around the perimeter of the lagoon, enjoying the tranquility and capturing stunning photographs. The presence of informational boards along the paths provides insights into the ecology of the area and the life cycle of these fascinating birds. A visit to Les Salinas is not just a chance to witness the beauty of flamingos in their natural habitat, but also an opportunity to appreciate the delicate balance of Calpe’s unique ecosystem.
Playa de la Fossa(right) and Arenal-Bol(Far-left) from the tunnel to Penon de Ifach peak. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
5. Explore the Beaches of Calpe
The beaches of Calpe are a cornerstone of its charm, offering a perfect blend of natural beauty and leisure activities. From the bustling Arenal-Bol to the more serene La Fossa, each beach has its own unique character. Arenal-Bol, with its fine golden sand and crystal-clear waters, is ideal for families, offering a safe and vibrant environment for swimming and sunbathing. La Fossa, known for its picturesque views of the Peñón de Ifach, provides a tranquil escape with its pristine shoreline and gentle waves. For those seeking a more secluded experience, the small coves dotting the coastline, like Cala del Morelló, offer peaceful retreats away from the crowds. Each beach is well-equipped with amenities like sun loungers, beach bars, and water sports facilities, ensuring a comfortable and enjoyable day by the sea. Whether you’re looking to relax under the Mediterranean sun, take a dip in the azure waters, or try your hand at windsurfing or paddleboarding, Calpe’s beaches offer something for every kind of beach-goer.
6. Take a Leisurely Stroll along the Promenade
The Paseo Marítimo in Calpe is a delightful promenade that stretches along the coastline, offering a scenic route for a leisurely walk. Lined with swaying palm trees and offering stunning views of the sea and the Peñón de Ifach, the promenade is a perfect place to experience the vibrant heartbeat of Calpe. As you stroll along, you’ll pass by a variety of charming restaurants and cafes, each offering a taste of local and international cuisine, often with al fresco dining options that allow you to enjoy your meal with a view. The walkway is also dotted with small boutiques and souvenir shops, perfect for browsing local crafts and gifts. In the evenings, the promenade comes alive with a gentle buzz of activity, making it an ideal spot for a romantic walk under the stars or an enjoyable evening out with family and friends. Whether for a morning jog, a leisurely afternoon stroll, or an evening meander, the Paseo Marítimo is a must-visit to truly embrace the coastal charm of Calpe.
7. Climb Morro de Toix
For those seeking an adventure off the beaten path, climbing Morro de Toix offers an exhilarating experience. This impressive cliff, located at the edge of Calpe, provides stunning views of the coastline and the Mediterranean Sea. As you ascend, the panoramic vistas unfold, offering breathtaking perspectives of the Calpe bays and the sprawling landscapes below. For rock climbing enthusiasts, there are various routes with different levels of difficulty, each promising an exciting and rewarding journey, but regular people can always climb Morro de Toix via urbanization roads from Calpe’s side. The summit of Morro de Toix is a peaceful spot, ideal for contemplation and taking in the natural beauty of the Costa Blanca. This activity not only tests your physical limits but also provides a unique way to connect with the rugged and raw beauty of Calpe’s natural landscape.
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8. Enjoy Fresh Seafood & Local Cuisine
Calpe’s culinary scene is a delightful celebration of fresh seafood and traditional Spanish flavors. The town’s close proximity to the sea ensures a constant supply of fresh fish and seafood, making it a paradise for seafood lovers. Local restaurants, ranging from cozy taverns to elegant eateries, offer a variety of dishes that showcase the best of Mediterranean cuisine. Signature dishes like paella, seafood stew, and fresh grilled fish are prepared with locally sourced ingredients, bringing the authentic taste of the region to your plate. Alongside seafood, one can also savor other regional specialties such as arroz a banda (rice cooked in fish stock), tapas, and fideuà (a noodle dish similar to paella). For a truly immersive experience, pair your meal with a glass of local wine or a refreshing sangria. Dining in Calpe is not just about the food; it’s an opportunity to indulge in the rich gastronomic culture of the region, with each meal offering a glimpse into the town’s culinary heritage and the Mediterranean lifestyle.
9. Visit Suitopia Skybar
Elevating the experience of Calpe’s vibrant nightlife is the Suitopia Skybar, a must-visit destination for those seeking a blend of luxury and stunning views. Located at the top of one of Calpe’s tallest buildings, this stylish skybar offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the town, the Mediterranean Sea, and the majestic Peñón de Ifach. As the sun sets, the skybar transforms into a picturesque setting, with the changing colors of the sky creating a mesmerizing backdrop. Guests can enjoy a variety of expertly crafted cocktails, fine wines, and a selection of gourmet snacks, all served in an elegant and contemporary atmosphere. The Suitopia Skybar is not just about the drinks; it’s an experience that combines stunning vistas, sophisticated ambiance, and exceptional service. Whether you’re looking to relax after a day of exploring or seeking a sophisticated evening out, the Suitopia Skybar promises an unforgettable experience in the heart of Calpe.
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Map of Calpe & Walks
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Nestled amongst the bustling modernity, Calpe’s old town is a hidden gem, a testament to its rich and diverse history. Wandering through its narrow streets, one can feel the layers of time peeling back, revealing tales of ancient civilizations and bygone eras. The town’s architecture is a mosaic of different influences – from the Moors to the Romans – each leaving an indelible mark on its character. Intricate doorways lead to sun-dappled courtyards, and the scent of traditional Spanish cuisine wafts from small family-owned restaurants. Despite the encroaching modern developments, this part of Calpe remains stubbornly authentic, a bastion of the town’s heritage. It’s a place where the past coexists with the present, offering a serene contrast to the thriving tourist spots nearby. Here, the true essence of Calpe’s spirit endures, unspoiled and enchanting, inviting those who seek more than just a superficial glimpse into its storied past.
The historic center of Calpe is so engulfed by hotels and second-apartment houses that it is very easy to miss it entirely. It took me a couple of years to find it – the old town hides much further from Penon de Ifach and the main beaches. At some point, it felt absolutely unnoticed by the crowds, and thank God. It is a true break from the noisy promenades and touristic restaurants. A small corner where the locals can still enjoy their typical Spanish life on Costa Blanca and I have to say with a style. The tourist cow is bringing a lot of milk to Calpe, and the streets and houses of the historic center are more colourful than an average town in Spain. Though perfect for Instagram pictures, it is not everything Calpe has to offer, the town has a long history which now is literally lost between the hotels.
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Calpe is located at one of the most beautiful geographical places in Costa Blanca. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Calpe’s Origins
Thanks to the graceful rock known as Penon de Ifach (Spanish peñón de translates to the “rock of”, and Libo-Phoenician Ifac to “of the north”), this area has been known at least since the times when the first Phoenicians have been exploring the Iberian shores about 3,000 years ago. These ancient but great navigators referred to Gibraltar and Penon de Ifach as the south and the north rocks, respectively. It wouldn’t surprise anyone if they settled in the area of the current-day Calpe. Especially, given that they were the first historical settlers near the rock of Gibraltar, which back then was known as Mons Calpe (Phoenician the “hollowed mountain”). The archaeological data shows Phoenician presence since 950 BC. Gibraltar was by far not the only Phoenician settlement in the Iberian peninsula, therefore it is a plausible thesis for them to have settled in a town with the same name as Mons Calpe by a similar graceful rock.
The Greeks knew even more Calpes. In 401 BC, after the battle of Cunaxa, the Greek philosopher Xenophon found himself as the leader of 10,000 fleeing men through an unknown country. In his diary, the Greek speaks of Calpe – a large rock on the shores of the Black Sea. It is hard to say if it was the name of a settlement or simply the name for such geological formations. Either way, Calpe was clearly mentioned in that name several times in Xenophon’s diary and in some ancient Greek maps. Today that settlement is probably known as Kerpe.
Translated from Greek, Calpe means something similar to urn or round-vessel. The word might have been used to describe large stand-alone rocks like Gibraltar and Penon de Ifach. Given that the ancient Greeks already knew how to process fish, could it be that Baños de la Reina salting factory was founded much earlier than we imagine? Maybe, Greek sailors colonized the area before the Romans? That remains only a thesis for now.
During the Roman times, Calpe was nothing but a small enclave, dependent on the nearby Dianium (Today’s Denia). Despite its size, this ancient site holds many wonders of its own. The Roman settlement had a hydraulic system, which provided water to its inhabitants. Also, because of its well-preserved mosaics, Calpe is counted as one of the most important Roman heritage sites in the province of Alicante. Today, it lies almost unnoticed between Penon de Ifach and the city center. Ironically, the first hotels of Calpe arose just next to the ancient settlement in the early 20s.
One thing I’m sure of the Spanish ancestors is that they appreciated natural beauty as much as modern humans do, and possibly even more. The Roman baths and fishery pools, known as Baños de la Reina, in Calpe, were built close by Penon de Ifach, just at the right distance to appreciate its magnificence the most. While the site was most likely used mainly for the fish farming and salinating needs of the nearby city Dianium, the scenery must have been taken into account for the location of the settlement. One could argue that the desire of modern people to move to Calpe was inherited from the Romans or the people who have been doing the same process even before.
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Not that many remain in the historic records of Calpe during the Moorish reign. One possibility is that the invasion of the Muslims into the Iberian Peninsula could have given the name to Calpe even before the conquerors arrived here. It is well known that in the 8th century, the Berber commander Tariq ibn Ziyad launched his attack from Gibraltar Rock, which was known ever since as Jabal Tariq (eng. the mountain of Tariq). This name evolved into modern Gibraltar but the town by the iconic rock was known as Calpe since the prehistoric Phoenician times. you can even find the name “Calpe” on the coat of arms of Gibraltar. It could be that in the 8th century, the settlers of Calpe of the straits fled as far as possible to Costa Blanca, where they found a similar rock and named their new settlement in honour of their old home.
After a successful conquest of Marina Alta, the new rulers built their castle further to the South from Calpe, on a mountain, overlooking the Canyon of Mascarat. It was the central administrative and defensive base in the area of Marina Alta to the south of Mount Montgo. The Moors remained in control until the region was reconquered by the Christians somewhere in 1240-54.
Despite that, many Moors were allowed to remain in Iberia in their homes. Those who chose this path got to be known as mudéjar (romanized version of Arabic “mudajjan”, meaning tamed, domesticated). In fact, unlike most of the Iberian Peninsula, Muslims greatly outnumbered Christians in the region of Valencia. These demographics combined with the discrimination and violence against Mudéjar people led to several uprisings, known as Al-Azraq revolts in honour of the famous commander who led all of them. Al-Azraq (Arabian the one with blue eyes) had a Muslim father and a Christian mother. Even after these revolts, the local Muslim population was allowed to live in the area including Calpe until 1526, when Islam was banned in the Kingdom of Aragon. Between 1609-1614, even Moriscos (Mudéjars converted to Christianity) were expelled from the country.
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The Christian Calpe
There are speculations that the city walls of the historic Calpe could be dating as far as Roman times but there is no direct evidence to this thesis. In fact, it was the Christian King Pere IV who ordered the strengthening of the existing walls in 1338 but it was executed only in 1375 under Alfons el Vell who found the money for the job in the budget. It was crucial for the existence of Calpe in these sometimes hostile lands. Soon after, in 1386 the castle of Calpe was divided into towns currently known as Teulada, Benissa, Senija, and Calpe. The newly formed units started to shape the area into what we are used to today.
The central walls of the bastion in the middle of Calpe were built somewhere between the 13th and 14th centuries to protect local farmers from Muslim attacks. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Probably the biggest impact on Marina Alta and Calpe during the Christian reign was done with the terrible decree to expel Moriscos from Spain. It was signed by King Felipe III himself, which left the Moors only with three days to reach the closest port to leave the country. Moriscos were allowed to take only what they could carry on their bodies. Everything else was to stay. To make things worse, anyone who found Moorish people after the three days was allowed to take everything from them and even kill Moriscos if they resisted. This, of course, went wrong in all possible ways, not to mention the fact that the Moors had lived in the Iberian Peninsula for over 800 years at that time. Twice as many years have passed since this inhumane event.
At that time, 127,000 Moriscos, who were expelled or killed represented 30% of the Valencian population. The area of Denia and Javea alone lost about 42,000 people and in many cases, they were the most productive people around. Obviously, these events had counter-productive consequences, and the only people to profit were the people in charge, of selling the homes and other property of Moriscos. Even so, the profits were only short-term because the lands were left uncultivated, and the equilibrium was destroyed. Nothing was left but despair and desolation on the shores of Calpe and Valencia in general. In the 17th century, the town was plagued by Barbary pirates. Calpe was no exception. Most of the coastal areas have experienced the attacks – it was the same Moriscos who had returned to their homeland with rage against Spain. Nevertheless, the population of Calpe kept increasing and the situation of the town finally consolidated after hundreds of years of hardships. The growth of the town continued towards the direction of provincial powerhouses Alicante and Altea.
Today, Calpe is a very popular vacation destination or a second house choice, once again the city seems to have become the home for many different peoples. Maybe, that is the correct recipe for its success.
Wandering around the streets of the historic center of Calpe is well worth at least 1 – 2 hours of your time. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Things to do in Calpe
Explore Valencia from Calpe: Full-Day Excursion
Discover the rich history of Valencia on a day trip from Calpe, with cultural highlights and free time to explore.
If you are interested in finding out more activities in the city, you can read my guide for the best things to do in Calpe.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Valencia, a beautiful city located on the southeastern coast of Spain, is home to a rich cultural heritage that is recognized by UNESCO. This vibrant city boasts four UNESCO World Heritage subjects that showcase its historical and architectural significance. One of them is honored in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites and the other three are marked among the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Naturally, the Valencian culture extends beyond the boundaries of the city, and some of the heritage can be observed and appreciated well beyond the city walls. Nevertheless, Valencia is a perfect example of a city and its peoples transcending cultural habits from over millennia, making it an exceptional cradle of the physical and intangible cultural heritage of Humanity.
Lonja de la Seda de Valencia
The Lonja de la Seda, or the Silk Exchange, is an emblematic symbol of Valencia’s golden age, a period marked by economic and cultural prosperity. Built between 1482 and 1533, this complex of buildings was originally the heart of the silk trade in the city, a bustling center of commerce and social interaction. Its stunning Gothic architecture is not just a visual treat but a narrative of Valencia’s historical significance. The grand Sala de Contratación, or the Contract Hall, is the crown jewel of this complex. This magnificent hall, with its spiraled columns reaching towards the heavens, is a testament to the power and wealth Valencia held as a major Mediterranean mercantile city during the 15th and 16th centuries.
Details
Architect: Pere Compte
Style: Valencian Gothic
Date of Construction: 1482-1533.
Date of Inscription: 1996
Type: World Heritage Site
Location: Plaza del Mercado, 31, 46001 Valencia, Spain
Visit hours: 10 AM – 7 PM (10 AM – 2 PM on Sundays)
1890 Photoglob Co., publisher, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Architectural and Historical Significance
The Lonja de la Seda is a masterpiece that encapsulates the essence of late Gothic architecture. Its design and construction reflect the secular spirit and the cultural richness of the Mediterranean region during that era. The building’s façade, adorned with intricate carvings and gothic motifs, narrates stories of a bygone era. Inside, the lavish detailing and the grandiose columns of the Sala de Contratación create an almost cathedral-like atmosphere, symbolizing the secular power and economic strength of Valencia. This architectural marvel not only served as a commercial hub but also became a social and cultural gathering place, influencing the urban landscape of Valencia.
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Contemporary Relevance
Today, it is not only a tourist attraction but also a cultural landmark that continues to inspire awe and admiration. Its inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites list in 1996 has helped in its preservation and has brought global recognition to Valencia’s rich cultural and historical heritage.
Valencia Fallas Festivity
The Fallas Festivity in Valencia is an annual explosion of color, art, and communal joy, deeply rooted in the local culture and celebrated with unbridled enthusiasm. Inscribed in 2016 as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO, this event, held from March 14 to 19, is a vibrant testament to the community spirit and artistic creativity of Valencia. The festivity’s centerpiece, the giant falla, is an awe-inspiring monument composed of ninots – caricature figures created by local artists that provide a satirical commentary on current social issues. These towering structures, set ablaze in a ritual of renewal and purification, symbolize the onset of spring and the rejuvenation of social activities.
Details
Date of Inscription: 2016
Type: The Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
The Valencia Fallas Festivity is much more than a mere spectacle; it’s a profound expression of local identity and community pride. Each year, neighborhoods come together to construct these elaborate ninots, fostering a sense of unity and cooperation. The Fallas Queen, a winner fallera elected annually, plays a pivotal role in promoting the festivity, embodying the spirit of Valencia and encouraging participation. This festival is not just a celebration; it’s a living tradition, passed down through generations, especially within families who are integral to the construction of the ninots. These families often belong to different guilds, each contributing their unique skills to the festivity. The festival is so popular that cities from neighboring provinces, like Burriana or Fallas in Denia, started to celebrate it as well.
In march 17 the local people dress-up in traditional clothing to bring flowers to the Virgin Mary. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Social Impact and Language Preservation
Historically, the Fallas Festivity has served as a crucial platform for preserving the Valencian language, especially during periods when its use was restricted. This cultural event strengthens community bonds, enhances social cohesion, and provides an outlet for collective creativity. The intricate process of creating the ninots and the elaborate preparations for the festivity play a crucial role in safeguarding traditional arts and crafts. The festival’s communal meals, parades, and fireworks further enrich the social tapestry of Valencia, making it a focal point of cultural identity.
Today, the Fallas Festivity stands as a vibrant symbol of Valencia’s rich cultural heritage, attracting visitors from around the world. Its recognition by UNESCO underscores its significance not just to Valencia, but as a cultural treasure of humanity. The festival’s ability to adapt while maintaining its core traditions is a testament to the resilience and vibrancy of the Valencian community.
Irrigators’ Tribunals of the Spanish Mediterranean Coast
The irrigators’ tribunals of the Spanish Mediterranean coast, an extraordinary example of living history, date back to the times of al-Andalus (9th to 13th centuries). These ancient judicial bodies, inscribed in 2009 as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, epitomize the enduring legacy of traditional law and water management practices in Valencia and Murcia. The two main tribunals – the Council of Wise Men of the Plain of Murcia and the Water Tribunal of the Plain of Valencia – are not mere historical relics; they are active and respected institutions integral to local community life. Operating under Spanish law, these tribunals democratically elect their members, who then judiciously resolve water-related disputes through oral proceedings.
Details
Date of Inscription: 2009
Type: The Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
Date of Event: Each Thursday at 12h00, Valencia
Location: Tribunal de las Aguas de la Vega de Valencia, Plaza de la Virgen, Valencia, Spain
Operating under Spanish law, these tribunals democratically elect their members, who then judiciously resolve water-related disputes through oral proceedings. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cultural and Social Significance
These tribunals are much more than arbiters of water rights; they are the bedrock of community cohesion and agricultural tradition. The process of resolving disputes is conducted publicly, ensuring transparency and fairness, and has been so for centuries. This visible and participatory nature of the tribunals fosters a deep sense of trust and respect within the community. The rites and rituals that accompany the delivery of judgments are not only a spectacle but also reinforce the historical and cultural significance of these institutions. Moreover, the tribunals are celebrated in local iconography, reflecting their embeddedness in the cultural fabric of the region.
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Synergy and Knowledge Transmission
The irrigators’ tribunals also play a crucial role in maintaining the synergy among various traditional occupations, such as wardens, inspectors, and pruners. They are living embodiments of centuries-old cultural exchanges, particularly evident in their unique lexicon, enriched with Arabic terms. It makes them not just about water management; the irrigators are custodians of a rich oral tradition and repositories of local and regional identity. The knowledge and practices associated with these tribunals are passed down through generations, ensuring the survival and relevance of these ancient customs in a modern context.
Irrigators’ Tribunal in Valencia is assembled every Thursday 12 O’Clock by The Door of the Apostles of the Cathedral. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Contemporary Importance
In a world rapidly modernizing and often forgetting its roots, the irrigators’ tribunals stand as a testament to the enduring relevance of traditional practices in contemporary society. They exemplify how ancient wisdom, particularly in resource management, can offer valuable lessons and solutions for present-day challenges. As a UNESCO-recognized site, these tribunals not only garner international attention but also remind us of the importance of preserving such unique cultural practices for future generations.
Manual Bell Ringing
In the cultural tapestry of Valencia, manual bell ringing holds a unique and resonant place. Recognized in 2022 as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, this tradition is much more than a musical practice; it’s a form of communication deeply embedded in the community’s life. For centuries, the bells of Valencia have served numerous social functions, from marking time to signaling important events and emergencies like fires or floods. The intricate language of bell ringing, with its specific coded messages, is not just understood but cherished by the local communities.
Details
Date of Inscription: 2022
Type: The Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
Manual bell ringing could be still heard across Valencia in churches like the Church of San Juan del Mercado or the Cathedral. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Variety and Techniques
The art of bell ringing in Valencia showcases a rich variety of sounds, each with its own significance and occasion. The diversity in the ringing patterns is attributed to the combination of different techniques like chiming, turning, or half-turning, and the skills of the bell ringers. These sounds are further influenced by the physical characteristics and acoustical properties of the bells, towers, and belfries. This results in a deep and extensive repertoire, encompassing both religious and civic contexts, thereby integrating the art into various facets of community life.
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Transmission and Preservation
The transmission of this art form is a testament to the community’s commitment to preserving its cultural heritage. Knowledge and skills of bell ringing are passed down from experienced bell ringers to younger generations, often through formal groups or organizations dedicated to this practice. These groups play a pivotal role not just in ringing the bells but in documenting, researching, and disseminating the art. The involvement of young people in this tradition is particularly noteworthy, as they are not only the custodians of this legacy but also active participants in recruiting new enthusiasts, ensuring the continuity and dynamism of this ancient art.
Manual bell ringing in Valencia is more than a tradition; it’s a living, breathing part of the city’s identity. Its recognition by UNESCO underscores its importance not just as a cultural artifact but as a vibrant, continuing practice. In an age dominated by digital communication, the bells of Valencia remind us of the enduring power and beauty of traditional forms of communication and community bonding. As we move forward, preserving and celebrating such traditions becomes ever more crucial in maintaining our connection to our past and to each other.
Popular Things to Do in Valencia
Catamaran Cruise with Sunset Option
Enjoy a relaxing catamaran cruise, day or sunset, with a glass of cava.
Nestled within the inland of the breathtaking region of Marina Alta in Spain, La Vall de Laguar is a splendid union of three picturesque towns: Campell, Fleix, and Benimaurell, plus Fontilles – a renowned senatorium and research center for the diseases of the poor. Each of these towns boasts its unique charm, telling tales of ancient civilizations, vibrant cultures, and the rich tapestry of Spanish history.
Visitors to La Vall de Laguar are often drawn to its enchanting vistas, a blend of serene mountains and lush valleys. The landscape here paints a picture of untouched nature and promises an intimate experience with the land’s pure essence. The region offers an array of activities, from trekking along the rugged mountain trails to indulging in the tranquil beauty of its valleys. For those who seek an authentic Spanish experience, La Vall de Laguar serves as a portal to the past, all while offering modern comforts and amenities.
For the discerning traveler, a trip to La Vall de Laguar isn’t just about the sights; it’s a call to connect deeply with the soul of Spain. The allure of the towns and their heartwarming residents beckons you to immerse yourself in their way of life. As you plan your next adventure, consider the magic of La Vall de Laguar and embrace the opportunity to journey through time and beauty.
History & Legend of La Vall de Laguar
But beneath the idyllic silent landscapes lies a tale of a bloody resistance and legend, centered around the Cavall Verd Ridge (Valenciano as “Cavall Verd” and Castellano “Caballo Verde”). This area, resonating with the echoes of history, was the final bastion of the Moors, who faced their forced exile in 1609. The legend woven into these hills speaks of Ezzme de Laguart, a renowned sorceress and healer from Laguar, whose prophecy of the green horse sparked a rebellion against their expulsion.
In a valiant stand, 1500 local rebels, led by the farmer Mellini, gathered at the Cavall Verd crest, armed with mere slingshots, stones, and a crossbow, to face a formidable force of five thousand battle-hardened soldiers from Naples and Sicily. Despite their courage, the Moorish resistance met a tragic end, with many choosing to leap from the cliffs or hide in the Cavall Verd caves rather than face defeat. This tragic conflict saw the valley emptied of its original inhabitants, only to be repopulated in 1611 by settlers from Mallorca, whose descendants still carry the legacy of this historical moment in their family names today.
Campell
Steeped in history and surrounded by natural splendor, Campell stands as a testament to the timeless beauty of Marina Alta. Originally established as an Iberian settlement, the town has witnessed the ebb and flow of various cultures, from the Romans to the Moors, and then back to the Christians. These historic imprints are evident in the town’s architecture, blending Moorish designs with more modern Spanish influences.
Today, Campell is a harmonious mix of the past and present. Its narrow cobbled streets lead visitors through a maze of quaint houses, with bursts of colorful flowers adorning balconies and courtyards. The town square, buzzing with life, serves as a gathering spot for both locals and tourists alike, offering a glimpse into the daily life of the community. Modern amenities have found their place in Campell without overshadowing its historic charm. Local cafes and eateries provide a culinary journey, highlighting the region’s rich flavors and traditional recipes. As night falls, the town transforms into a peaceful haven, with the soft glow of street lamps illuminating its charming pathways.
Also known as Poble d’Enmig (“Town of In the Middle”), Fleix is not just a tranquil little town in the heart of La Vall de Laguer. It is a town with roots that trace back centuries, Fleix’s historical narrative is as captivating as its scenic beauty. I was once a strategic stronghold during the era of the Moors. Its elevated location provided both defense and a vantage point overlooking the majestic valleys below. But, after the expulsion of the Moors and repopulation in 1611, Fleix joined arms with Benimaurell and Campell to form a single unit.
Today, Fleix has maintained its quaint charm, seamlessly blending the old with the new. Its winding alleys echo tales of yesteryears, guiding visitors past beautifully preserved stone houses, remnants of ancient fortifications, and the iconic church that stands as the town’s spiritual heart. The church’s bell, with its melodious chimes, punctuates the daily rhythm of life in Fleix.
While the town may seem secluded at first glance, it’s this very seclusion that lends it its unparalleled charm. Modern conveniences, though present, take a backseat, allowing the town’s history and nature to shine. Whether it’s indulging in local delicacies at a family-owned eatery, hiking and embracing the marvelous nature of La Vall de Laguar, or simply basking in the panoramic views from a hilltop, Fleix invites you to slow down, breathe deep, and savor every moment.
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Benimaurell
Situated amidst the undulating landscapes of La Vall de Laguar, Benimaurell is a gem that sparkles with a rich cultural heritage. Its origins are steeped in stories of ancient civilizations, and its streets bear witness to epochs gone by. In times past, Benimaurell served as an essential crossroad for traders and travelers, a nexus where diverse cultures met, exchanged, and coexisted.
Modern-day Benimaurell is a mosaic of history and contemporary life. Its skyline is punctuated with historic towers, remnants of fortifications that once protected its residents from external threats. These architectural marvels now stand alongside newer structures, embodying the town’s evolution over time. Benimaurell’s location, cradled by mountains and overlooking lush valleys, offers a respite from the hustle and bustle, making it an ideal haven for those seeking peace and inspiration.
Best time to visit: Spring and Fall, when the weather is mild and the landscape is in full bloom.
Map of Marina Alta Activities
Best Hiking Trails in La Vall de Laguar
This region of Costa Blanca is a paradise for people who love to spend their time enjoying the bliss of the wonderful nature of Spain. Whether you choose hiking trails on the coast of Marina Alta or inland, you are on top of the game. It doesn’t mean that the best walking routes around Benidorm in Marina Baixa are worse, but Marina Alta as a region is on a totally another level, and La Vall de Laguar is not an exception but rather a rule.
One of the most famous trails, this route lets hikers witness the ‘Hell’s Gorge’ up close. The trail stretches approximately 14 km/8.7 mi and offers panoramic views of cascading waterfalls, ancient Moorish terraces, diverse local flora, and the so-called “La Catedral of Senderismo” (eng. “The Cathedral of Hiking”).
PR-CV 181 Cavall Verd
The PR-CV 181 Cavall Verd trail, often referred to as “The Watchman’s Pathway,” is a journey steeped in legend and natural beauty. This moderate-level hike stretches approximately 12 km / 7.5 mi, leading adventurers through a mosaic of landscapes that define the Marina Alta region.
The trail’s name, Cavall Verd, translates to ‘Green Horse,’ and is said to be named after the silhouette of the mountain that resembles a horse’s back. Local lore also speaks of vigilant watchmen who, during times of conflict, would use these heights to spot impending threats from afar.
Spanning roughly ±14 km/8.5 mi, this trail gives a comprehensive view of the entire valley. Hikers pass through dense forests, orchards, and traditional Spanish hamlets, soaking in the essence of La Vall de Laguar.
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Fontilles Viewpoint Trail
Ideal for those looking for a light trek, this 6 km/3.7 mi trail culminates at a viewpoint overlooking the Fontilles Sanatorium. The trail meanders through aromatic herb patches and provides opportunities for bird-watching.
How to Get to La Vall de Laguar
Reaching La Vall de Laguar is a journey as rewarding as the destination itself, with scenic routes offering glimpses of the Spanish countryside’s charm.
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By Car
Setting out from Alicante on the A-70, the cityscapes gradually give way to coastal vistas as you merge onto the AP-7 towards Valencia. Take exit 62, and the N-332 briefly teases with coastal charm before guiding you onto the CV-729 towards Orba. From there, the winding CV-721 weaves through the countryside, culminating in the welcoming embrace of La Vall de Laguar, where the heart of the town offers ample parking.
By Bike
For the more adventurous, biking to La Vall de Laguar provides an exhilarating experience. There are several bike rental shops in nearby cities like Alicante and Denia. The route, while hilly, offers cyclists a chance to immerse themselves in the region’s natural beauty. Ensure you have a map or GPS, as some trails can be less straightforward.
When I visited La Vall de Laguar for the first time it was a big surprise, and love, almost, from the first sight. Seldom do you find such a relatively easy area to access, yet so mesmerizing with its sheer beauty and the strong aura of remoteness. Of course, the inland parts of Marina Alta like La Val de la Gallinera share those feats, but it is much harder to access as it often requires a dedicated day, while La Vall de Laguar’s location in a relative proximity to the access to the A7 highway, making this area a much more flexible option for a visit.
Another great feature of La Vall de Laguar is its space planning resulting in decent facilities. Unfortunately, you won’t find a public WC but, at least, parking won’t be a problem. Furthermore, the hiking trails are marked really well, and you’ll find plenty of information in English together with the usual local languages Valencian and Castellano.
All things combined, I think La Vall de Laguar makes a perfect peaceful getaway from the ever-busy coast of Costa Blanca and Costa del Azahar. Not only it is a picturesque adventure but it offers an escape into the tranquil yet unsung nature of Spanish mountains. No matter how many friends I have brought to these areas, they were highly impressed by the pristine beauty of it. I wonder if the close proximity to the overpopulated coast gives an extra charm to the immediate pearls of the inland due to the high contrasts. One way or another, La Vall de Laguar makes a perfect destination for anyone who wants to experience Marina Alta by heart and to its fullest.
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Situated in one of the least densely populated regions of the Valencian Community – Alto Maestrazgo, Ares del Maestrat, like the whole area is defined by nature, not by men. One can only wonder what brought the first settlers to this remote and from the first sight unhospitable area. It could be the beauty of nature itself or safety, but note that it is not unusual for Ares del Maestrat to be covered by snow during the colder periods of the year. The usage of firewood was a very common practice until recently. The locals’ livelihood was under nature’s mercy for at least a thousand years.
The raison d’etre of Ares del Maestrat might lie in the name of the settlement with less than 200 inhabitants. As a matter of fact, there are plenty of towns named Ares from the Comtat region (north of Alicante) to the Pyrenees Mountains. Since they seem to be founded on the mountains, scholars link them to the Latin word “Aras” (eng. Altar), not Ares – “the animal”. To understand the reason behind it we must look a bit deeper into the past, to be precise to the times of Romans. It is now known that they made sacrifices to the Gods, most notably Mercury, once Romans passed a mountain pass, like the one at Ares del Maestrat.
Today, relatively few tourists trespass this humble yet grandiose town. Ares del Maestrat is clearly overshadowed by some of the bigger names in the region, making it an even more charming destination. Sightseeing it is like visiting Morella without tourists but maybe Morella is Ares del Maestrat with tourists – you name it.
Best time to visit: May through October, for warm weather hiking and exploring
Map of Ares del Maestrat
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Situated on 1 231 m / 4 039 ft, the castle of Ares del Maestrat only by pure coincidence was conquered by the Christians from Moors in either 1231 or 1232. It must be either the first date or the mountain was a meter taller one thousand years ago. One way or another, Ares del Maestrat is located in a very strategically important place. As a matter of fact, it was the first Castle captured by King Jaime I during the Christian Reconquista of the Iberian Peninsula in the area now considered the Valencian Community.
Later on, it was passed to the almost mythical Order of Templar Knights, and their ‘ban’ to the Order of Montesa. Originally, it is thought that the Moors were the first ones to build a castle here. Still, it wouldn’t surprise me if Gaulic tribes first inhabited the castle-towns like Ares del Maestrat, Culla, and Morella much earlier because these towns look exactly like the Gaulic strongholds, described in Julius Ceasar’s diaries during his brutal conquest of Gaul.
Nevertheless, even with the very widespread ignorance of the Iberian Peninsula’s past before the Spanish Reconquista among the local historians, more serious scholars admit that these areas, including Ares del Maestrat, have been inhabited for a long time. This is proven not only by archeologists but by the cave paintings, most notably in Cova Remígia with over 700 figures created approx 7 000 years ago. These paintings visualize activities like hunting and even honey collecting, which probably speaks of the local crafts during that period.
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Streetview of Ares del Maestrat
Other Things to do in Castellon
From Valencia: Discover Morella and Peñíscola with tickets
Discover two of the most beautiful towns in Spain, Morella and Peñíscola, on a day trip from Valencia.
Given the relatively high amount of Templar or other castles in the area, Ares del Maestrat is almost entirely forgotten. In my opinion, it doesn’t do justice. No other town in the province is elevated at these heights, even Morella. This alone gives Ares del Maestrat an unexpectedly eerie and mesmerizing atmosphere, but given its relatively close location to the coast, the contrast is taunting. Just in one hour, you could get from the buzzing streets of endless tourists to a tiny medieval village, rising more than a kilometer above sea level with nothing but green hills and mountains in the surrounding stunning landscape. The whole town seems to host fewer people than you can find in 20 sq m in some of the more busy towns situated on the coast. It is a truly magical escape from the worst to the best in terms of Spanish authenticity you could get.
A short ride to Ares del Maestrat makes a perfect one-day trip from coastal towns like Bennicasim, Ortopesa, Torrenostra, Alcossebre, or even Peniscola (which is an architectural wonder of its own). You can even combine it with another medieval town-fortress Culla, or if you are quick – Vilafamés, which is listed as one of the top 100 most beautiful villages in Spain. Ares del Maestrat falls short of this list but I’m sure it is just because the Province of Castellon has so much to offer, and you can’t add them all. From my personal experience traveling Spain, Ares del Maestrat is no less attractive than any other small picturesque town found across the country.
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Enter a world of aquatic splendour at the Oceanographic in Valencia, a crowning gem among the city’s cultural treasures. With an impressive array of marine species, groundbreaking exhibits, and awe-inspiring architecture, this marvelous establishment is a beacon for nature lovers, families, and tourists alike. Its significance extends beyond being a mere tourist attraction, doubling as a hub for marine research and conservation.The themed exhibits varies between different habitat pavilions among whom you can find famous Beluga Whales, the Dolphinarium & a huge shark aquarium!
Having so many things to see in such a short time, it is very helpful to come to the park prepared. This guide to the Oceanographic will be your compass, helping you to take the most out of your visit to the aquarium and navigate the thrilling experiences that await you. It will provide all the information you need – from the museum’s history to its conservation efforts, special features, and practical tips for visitors.
So, whether you are planning your next family holiday, looking for an educational experience, or simply seeking the next great ‘Thing to do in Valencia’, a visit to the Oceanographic is a must. The magic of the aquatic world awaits!
If you don’t like dolphin shows, visit delphinarium during the rest hours. You’ll see what these majestic animals love to do on their free time. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
History of Oceanographic Valencia
Opened to the public in 2003, the Oceanographic quickly rose to prominence as a key highlight of the City of Arts and Sciences. This grand project was conceived by renowned architect Santiago Calatrava, whose visionary design effortlessly marries science, nature, and art. A unique fact about this architectural marvel is that it is designed to represent various aquatic ecosystems, further cementing the authenticity of the Oceanographic museum experience.
What is the Oceanographic in Valencia?
Stepping into the Oceanographic is akin to diving into an alternate universe, one that teems with vibrant marine life and astonishing exhibits. Its mission is twofold: to foster a sense of wonderment and curiosity about our oceans and to propagate awareness and knowledge about marine conservation. Spanning across an expansive area of 110,000 m² / 1,184,030 ft², the Oceanographic is a spectacle to behold.
Often referred to as the Valencia Aquarium, the Oceanographic holds the prestigious title of being Europe’s largest aquarium. This colossal aquatic hub has redefined the conventional notions of a museum, providing a sanctuary to over 45,000 marine creatures across 500 different species. A true testament to diversity and magnificence of life under the sea.
The Oceanographic in Valencia gets really busy during peak seasons. Skip-the-line tickets are recommended. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Oceanografic Details
Highlights: The largest aquarium in Europe featuring various marine habitats, a dolphinarium, an underwater restaurant, and beluga whales.
For a more cost-effective visit, you can consider purchasing combined tickets or packages that include other attractions within the City of Arts and Sciences. There are special discounts for groups, children, seniors, and students. The Valencia Tourist Card also offers attractive discounts and a free public transport.
Pro tip: Remember, the Oceanographic in Valencia is a popular attraction, so it’s advised to book your tickets in advance, especially during peak season and holidays.
What Can You See at the Oceanographic?
The Oceanographic is home to a vast array of marine species from different parts of the world’s oceans, all meticulously housed in environments that mimic their natural habitats. The Oceanographic exhibits provide a close-up view of the ocean’s magnificent inhabitants, right from tiny, darting fish to lumbering walruses, all the while amplifying the importance of preserving the natural world.
When you’re planning your ‘Visit Valencia’ itinerary, you will be enthralled to learn that the Oceanographic boasts nine underwater towers spread over two levels, each representing some of the most significant ecosystems on our planet. This is where marine life Valencia comes alive, offering unparalleled experiences such as walking through a glass tunnel as sharks swim overhead or watching vibrant corals and tropical fish in their colorful reef settings. It’s like stepping into a vibrant National Geographic spread!
Remember to carry your camera as the Oceanographic provides innumerable photogenic spots, contributing to an unforgettable visual diary of your visit to Valencia. Also, you can find exclusive and high-quality images and videos of these exhibits on our website to enhance your understanding and expectations.
List of Themed Exhibits
From the frigid Arctic waters to the warm Mediterranean seas, the Oceanographic themed exhibits immerse you in a diverse range of habitats in 11 different pavilions. Now, isn’t that an exciting ‘thing to do in Valencia’?
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Antarctic
This pavilion represents the Southern Ocean surrounding the Antarctic continent. It is notable for its vast biomass, despite its relatively low biodiversity. Light lasts for extended periods in this region, leading to plankton explosions that serve as the basis of life for many other species.
Welcome to a giant igloo, twelve meters tall, representing the habitat of Beluga Whales family. The upper level offers a view of immense ice blocks, the perfect habitat for beluga whales. Meanwhile, the lower level provides an underwater perspective, where visitors can immerse themselves in the frozen water.
Crocodile Preserve
This 450m² habitat, located in the living lake of the aquarium, features a large outdoor space notable for an area prepared to facilitate the nesting of reptiles. It includes 2×1 meter pits with a drainage system to protect eggs in case of rain before being transferred to the incubator of the aquarium to finish their development.
The Oceanogràfic boasts the largest dolphinarium in Europe, home to a group of Bottlenose Dolphins. With a grandstand capacity of over 1,500 people, the dolphinarium has a main pool for the study and observation of the dolphins and four auxiliary pools for training, reproduction, and medical care. Visitors can enjoy a bio-educational exhibition several times each day, demonstrating the abilities of these animals and explaining the most important aspects of their biology, behavior, and conservation.
Wetlands / Aviary
Housed in a large, 26-meter-tall sphere, this pavilion represents two of the most characteristic coastal wetlands of the planet: the American mangrove and the Mediterranean marshland. Wetlands are among the richest, most productive ecosystems on the planet, home to hundreds of endemic and endangered species.
The Aquarium of Clownfishes is probably the most attractive in Tropical Seas habitat pavillion. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Temperate & Tropical
This pavilion represents the majority of the oceans, extending from the equator to latitudes close to the polar circles. Tropical seas have an average surface water temperature of 25 degrees Celsius, allowing for great biodiversity. Temperate seas have thermal oscillations, reaching a minimal 12 degrees Celsius, and are characterized by very high productivity due to annual plankton outbreaks.
Islands
This outdoor installation replicates the habitat of the southern coast of South America, allowing visitors to observe the behavior of South American sea lions. This area will soon also contain Oceanic Island habitats.
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The Living Lake of the aquarium is home to a variety of aquatic birds such as Red-crested Pochard, Common Shelduck, and the Whooper Swan. The installations are also used by some species of birds that visit throughout the year, coming mainly from the Albufera Natural Park and the former bed of the Turia River.
Oceans
The Oceans Pavilion is the largest aquarium in the Oceanographic, representing the vast oceans that cover our planet. This pavilion typically houses a multitude of marine species, showcasing the incredible biodiversity found in the world’s oceans. Visitors can expect a journey through different ocean habitats, discovering various marine creatures along the way.
The Oceanographic houses Loggerhead Sea Turtle, Green Sea Turtle, Hawksbill Sea Turtle, Kemp’s Ridley Sea Turtle & Leatherback Sea Turtle species. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Red Sea
This pavilion recreates the unique marine environment of the Red Sea, renowned for its vibrant coral reefs and diverse marine life. Visitors can explore a variety of colorful tropical fish, including the beautiful angelfish, while gaining insights into the importance of marine conservation.
Mediterranean
This pavilion represents a stretch of the Mediterranean Sea, a temperate sea that’s not very deep, relatively small, and practically closed in by continents. As depth increases, visitors will see different ecosystems, starting from the coastal areas of the Posidonia aquarium to port areas, ending in the deepest Mediterranean zones. It houses the biggest gorgonions in the Mediterranean, the fluorescent jewel anemone, and the threatened red coral.
At the Oceanographic, your journey of exploration and learning extends beyond observing the marine life on display. The Oceanographic takes pride in its diverse range of events and educational programs designed to engage visitors of all ages, making it an ideal destination not just for family outings, but for school trips too.
One such educational offering is the ‘Sleeping with Sharks’ program, a unique overnight experience that allows children and adults to learn about sharks, their behaviors, and the threats they face. Imagine falling asleep watching these majestic creatures glide above you! You may also be interested in the ‘Behind the Scenes’ tour, which provides insights into the daily operations of Europe’s largest aquarium. These are truly some of the most exciting ‘things to do in Valencia’.
Unique Features of the Oceanographic
The Oceanographic in Valencia, besides being Europe’s largest aquarium, stands out for its unique and innovative features that attract tourists worldwide. Here, every element is designed to make your visit an unforgettable experience.
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Submarine Dining Experience
One of the standout features of the Oceanographic is its underwater restaurant. As part of this unique dining experience, guests are surrounded by an expansive aquarium filled with various marine species. As you enjoy your meal, you can witness marine life gracefully swimming around you. Dining at this underwater restaurant makes for a story worth sharing back home!
Architectural Brilliance
The architectural design of the Oceanographic, conceived by renowned architect Santiago Calatrava, is a sight to behold. The aesthetically pleasing and technologically advanced structure enhances your experience, making it more than just a visit to an aquarium.
Spellbinding Dolphin Show
The dolphin show in Valencia is another highlight that you wouldn’t want to miss. This mesmerizing spectacle showcases the intelligence and agility of these wonderful creatures, leaving visitors of all ages in absolute awe.
The controversial dolphinarium is important for scientific research of dolphins. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Conservation Programs of the Oceanographic
At the heart of the Oceanographic lies a deep commitment to marine conservation. While the aquarium is a spectacle for visitors, it also plays a pivotal role in protecting and preserving the local marine species, making it more than just a destination for entertainment.
Through its various conservation programs, Oceanographic has been actively involved in the rescue, rehabilitation, and release of marine animals, like endangered sea turtles of the Mediterranean. It has also initiated programs focusing on the breeding of threatened species, thereby contributing to the preservation of marine biodiversity.
The Oceanographic’s commitment to conservation extends beyond its premises. The aquarium actively collaborates with global institutions on research projects aimed at marine conservation. It is also involved in numerous conservation initiatives, such as beach clean-ups and campaigns to reduce plastic waste in the oceans.
Why Conservation Matters
Marine conservation is vital for maintaining the health of our planet. Oceans produce a significant portion of the world’s oxygen, absorb carbon dioxide, and serve as habitats for a diverse array of species. By supporting institutions like the Oceanographic, you’re playing a part in the larger mission of preserving our blue planet. The Oceanographic isn’t just about witnessing the beauty of marine life and exploiting the animals; it’s about understanding our role in preserving that beauty for future generations.
Gallery of Animals
Personal Experience
In conclusion, I think that the Oceanographic in Valencia isn’t just another stop on your sightseeing tour – it’s a gateway into an underwater world that will leave you awestruck and enlightened. It definitely affected me and still does, as I keep getting back to embrace the beautiful lifeforms found in the aquarium and learn about the new initiatives to protect the local species in the area. The aquarium offers a unique blend of entertainment, education, and engagement with its wide variety of exhibits. I also appreciated the park’s active involvement in marine conservation, which seems only to be improving with time. The stunning architecture of the buildings only adds to the whole package of awesome things you get after signing up for a visit to the Oceanographic.
Let the underwater world enchant you with its beauty, its diversity, and its silent plea for preservation. Visit the Oceanographic, immerse yourself in the wonder of marine life, and carry back memories that will last a lifetime. Whether you’re a family seeking a fun and educational outing, a couple looking for a unique date experience, or a solo traveler eager to explore the best of Valencia, the Oceanographic beckons. So, why wait? Plan your visit to the Oceanographic today and prepare to be captivated by the marvels of the marine world.
Catamaran Cruise with Sunset Option
Enjoy a relaxing catamaran cruise, day or sunset, with a glass of cava.
Without a doubt, Marina Alta is the most beautiful region of Costa Blanca. It wouldn’t surprise me if it was ranked right there at the top on a hypothetical factual “the most beautiful Mediterranean coastlines of mainland Europe”. There is no such list but what I’m trying to say – Marina Alta is exceptionally beautiful. You might not have heard of it but sure you have heard of Ibiza and Balearic Islands? Marina Alta is the part of Spain between the gulf of Valencia and the gulf of Alicante, which is the closest point to these iconic Spanish islands. I would argue that the cliffs and some of the beaches are just as beautiful as in the islands. One way or another, any of the best hikes in Marina Alta could be a very pleasant surprise.
Due to the beauty and magic of its landscape, Marina Alta was densely populated by Iberian Culture from about 8th century BC. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Geography & Geology
The direct translation of Marina Alta from Spanish to English is the “high port”, as an opposition to the nearby Marina Baixa, or the “low docks”, the region surrounding Benidorm. The name of Marina Alta could be easily explained by geography and geology. The region is located on the southernmost edge of mainland Spain, which has raised from the sea millions of years ago, when the Eurasian plate collided with the African one. This massive event led to the genesis of many mountains in Europe, but the closest to the point of origin are the Betic Mountains, with Marina Alta located on one end of it. The other being nothing else but famous Gibraltar and Betic Mountains dominating the scenery of the whole landscape in-between in one way or another.
As Phoenicians themselves noticed in ancient times, Betic Mountains is more or less the area between the Western Rock (Gibraltar) and the Eastern Rock (Penon de Ifach). Technically, the latter one being a part of Marina Alta but since I wrote about climbing Penon de Ifach so much, this hiking route will escape the list at least for now. Despite that, the famous Cape rock adds to the region of Marina Alta, which is simply could be called a hikers’ paradise.
Calla del Moraig – Calla del Llebeig (Los Acantilados)
Los Acantilados hike is probably the most popular outdoor destination in the area for the high and exceptionally beautiful beaches: Cala del Moraig and Cala Llebeig. The first one is a very popular attraction on its own, offering very unique geological formations, and the latter one is a pristine remote fishing beach, straight out from a postcard. They are connected via the Los Acantilados hike, which a semi-easy walk amid very high cliffs. The route offers majestic views all the way. If you can deal with some steps, the heights, and the crowds, this could be easily the hike to pursue in Marina Alta.
From left to right: Cap de la Nao, La Granadella, Morro Falqui & Falla del Moraig. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Though the official hiking trail of Los Acantilados goes past Cala Llebeig back upwards the mountain, there is no reasonable option to make it a circle route. I did not find it to be a major problem as the views are equally stunning in both directions. The hiking trail goes along the cliffs, somewhere in a midst of it. This gives an illusion of being somewhere remote in nature, though in reality the cliff is heavily urbanized just above your head. Along Los Acantilados you’ll find a few remote hermit houses, used to shelter animals by shepherds almost 100 years ago.
While the hiking trail between the two beaches is relatively short, it is not possible to quickly cruise through the whole route. Parts of the hike require extra attention due to the narrow passages by the steep cliffs. The final section of the hike gives breath-taking views of Cala Llebeig, but descending to the beach might be not for everybody. Climbing back up will literally going to take your breath away.
The descend to Calla Llebeig might be not for everybody, but the viewpoint itself is worth the hike. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cova dels Arcs
Los Acantilados might be the most sought hiking trail in Marina Alta, but it doesn’t define everything this gorgeous corner has to offer. At the edge of Cala dėl Moraig lies a beautiful cave – Cova dels Arcs. It has a few entrances forming a spider-like rock sculpture Cova dels Arcs is a perfect example of what happens when a continental karst system goes underwater. Today, this exceptional geological formation is a symbol of the Valencian coastline and challenges Los Acantilados for the top tourist destination in Benitachell.
Another interesting geological formation found right next to Cala del Moraig and Cova dels Arcs is Falla del Moraig. You can access it on a short 15-min walking trail (marked pink) right from Cala del Moraig. Many people mistake this hiking route with Los Acantilados, thus be sure to check the hiking map, I provided above.
Though Falla del Moraig resembles a phallus, the word “falla” stands for a fault, because this geological formation is a good example of a normal fault line. This creative term describes a crack within the earth, where the upper block slides down relative to the block below. These kinds of slides are possible causation of earthquakes. The gap between geological blocks formed because waves of the Mediterranean eroded the lower part of the upper block and the rock have collapsed. It is possible to see the continuation of this fault line on the other side of Cala del Moraig.
Los Acantilados hikign trail begins at the parking of Cala Moraig not the beach itself. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cala Barraca – Cap Prim Hike
A hike to an exceptionally beautiful narrow piece of nature pressed to the very edge of high cliffs by countless fancy mansions. Cap Prim (eng. Prim Cape) is a very tip of a larger peninsula of mainland Spain – the closest point to the Balearic islands. That explains both the reason why it attracts so many rich people and the awe-inspiring views of a landscape, which is more similar to a south Asian than a European one. The people are not the only inhabitants of Cap Prim. Many bird species find this narrow piece of land as their home, which is still dwarfed by the colonies living on the Island of Portixol that dominates the scenery throughout most of the time during this wonderful hike.
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The Cap Prim is a real paradise on the edge of the Betic Mountains, whose high cliffs dip into the Mediterranean. The close encounter of mountains and sea sculpted out this majestic landscape throughout the endless years and today – to put it bluntly – it is absolutely stunning. Cap Prim is a true hidden secret as there not much information on the Internet but once you are in the area, something naturally draws you there. As my experience has shown me, this is that kind of hike, which literally sucks you in. A real step-turner, if you pardon the pun. It doesn’t matter, where you’d start the route, you’ll end up in Cap Prim.
Though accidentally I walked to Cap Prim from Cala Blanca (3.94 km / 2.45 mi), I intended and recommend doing so via the official route. You could either start at Cala Barraca (3.67 km / 2.28 mi) or Creu de Portixol (2.14 km / 1.33 mi). Though have in mind that the latter one has very limited parking options, and getting to Cala Barraca might be not an option for less experienced drivers. If you have time, hiking from Cala Blanca is still a very viable option.
Torre de Vigia Walking Trail (El Portet Beach – Cap d’Or)
The climb up to the watchtower of Cap d’Or (eng. d’Or Cape) is an hour-long hike, beginning at El Portet Beach in Moraira, which is an outstanding travel destination on its own. The first part of the hike leads through some fancy estates, facing the Mediterranean but soon the road leads into the protected areas of micro-reserve. From there on, the rich history of this small area unveils itself. Besides the expected watchtower, Cap d’Or houses an ancient Iberian settlement and a prehistoric cave. Thanks to a recent infrastructure investment all these places could be reached on foot. At the end of the day, the climb to the Watchtower of Cap d’Or is a magical experience. Let alone the views of the Mediterranean or El Portet beach, but the cape has a positive aura attached to it.
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La Cova de les Cendres (eng. Cendra Cave) is considered to be one of the most important archeological sites in the Iberian Peninsula. The cave was inhabited since the prehistoric times some 20,000 years ago to the Neolithic period 8,000 years ago (The final stage of the Stone Age, characterized by domesticated animals and crops).
The trail down to the Cendra Cave a recent addition as a part of the renewal project of Torre de Vigia walking trail. Making it a good choice for either history fans or off-beaten path adventurers. The trail has a few but very steep steps. It leaves me wondering about the toughness of the prehistoric people – one thing is to descend to or ascend from the cave, but keeping cattle over there?
Caves facing the Mediterranean with an evidence of the prehistoric people are found across the coastline of Marina Alta. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cap d’Or
The name of d’Or Cap translates into the Golden Cape, which is associated with the Sun Cult of the Iberian Culture. It is the same word from the infamous “matador”, or “atoreador” from bullfighting, which possibly derived from some ancient Iberian ritual of sacrificing a bull to the Golden Sun.
At the foot of the 16th watchtower of Cap d’Or, lies the ruins of ancient Iberian town. It is not the first such archeological site in the Province of Alicante that gives this energized feeling. Like many ancient cultures, Iberians chose magic places for their settlements or sacred places, based on the movements of the Sun or constellations. Given the rich scenery visible from the top of Cap d’Or: Penon de Ifach, Sierra de Bernia, Sierra de Gelada, and even Puig Campana, I imagine the whole calendar could be laid-out on the horizon.
From left to right: Penon de Ifach, Sierra Gelada, Sierra Bernia & Puig Campana. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Hiking Granadella
Luckily for us, the Granadella Forest Park area for some reason was left uninhabited, making it one of only two such areas by the coast of Marina Alta. (The other one is, of course, the natural park of El Montgo). Though this park is labeled as a forest, almost no trees are here today. The reason behind this is the terrible wildfires in 2016 that completely devastated vast areas between Javea and Granadella. Remember that most such wildfires are caused by people, so if you chose to hike during a dry season, be extra careful with fire.
Today, despite being nothing exceptional compared to the famous Park in Marina Alta – El Montgo, being uninhabited alone makes the area around Granadella special. The reason is the possibility to find traces of the original flora and fauna here, which is very rare on the coastline in Marina Alta. To be honest, across the whole country. Among the interesting fauna that you might encounter are hedgehogs, dormice and beetles. You might be not lucky enough to spot these but I’m sure that across the hike you’ll encounter various species of plants and birds like larks, serins, and swallows.
Tip: Note that this area lacks shade, so it is better to come early or in the evening.
Granadella beach hike is going to unveil most of this unique green space has to offer. The hike will start from urbanización located by the foot of Mount Llorenca and will lead you through a plateau with some ravines. The road will slowly take you towards the cliffs with beautiful vistas of the Mediterranean and Granadella Beach itself. Though the descent to the sea level is relatively steep it is not dangerous at all like in some other hikes on the list. Unfortunately, the beach could be reached by car as well, so it won’t feel as remote as some other places. The upside of this is a couple of cozy restaurants and water sports gear rent. The hike should be perceived as a semi-circular trail in a green area by the sea anyway. Access to Granadella Beach on the midway is just a bonus. It is a perfect option if you are not sure if you want to spend a day in nature or by the beach.
Mount Montgo Massif homes the largest natural park in Marina Alta. Located between the two most populous towns in the region – Denia and Javea – Montgo Nature Park is a naturally popular location for hiking. It has the biggest variety of different difficult routes, and probably is the best destination for a decent outdoors challenge.
Key features
High cliffs
Large green areas
Variety of hikes
Mount Montgo massive faces the Mediterranean forming giant cliffs along the coast. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Denia – Cova Tallada Hike
This is a very rewarding, semi-short but a bit difficult hike for inexperienced outdoors people. To most of us, it would be an easy walk in a park without a need for a map but due to the high traffic of visitors, the route becomes a bit more dangerous than it should, so you must be careful of other people’s actions. Otherwise, it is an enjoyable walk along the cliffs, facing the Mediterranean with a few steps and narrow passages with chains.
Key features
Cova Tallada cave system
Mount Montgo high cliffs
Good snorkeling
Cliff diving
Kayaking alternative
The entrance to Cova Talada is hidden down a small cliff, just above the Mediterranean. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Hike details
Location: Montgo Natural Park
Starting Location: Denia
Target Location: La Cova Tallada
Distance: 1km / 0.62mi x2
Ascend: Flat (~80 m / 260 ft)
Type: Linear
Duration: 30-40min x2
Difficulty: Intermediate
Color: Yellow
Despite all the obstacles, the hike to Cova Tallada is a wonderful destination to an inland rocky island paradise. Though the red route itself won’t take a lot of your time – be prepared to spend a better half of a day there. Cova Tallada is a beautiful cave system surrounded by pristine Mediterranean water, small islets, and giant cliffs. This spectacular landscape is a great place for a picnic, snorkeling, cliff diving, reading a book, or simply contemplating your thoughts. Just be sure to wear a good pair of hiking boots, take water shoes, and pick up all your trash.
Have in mind that the described Cova Tallada hiking route starts from the Denia side of Mount Montgo Natural Park. Though it is possible to hike to the cave from the Javea side, this is the easiest way to do so. If you want more information on this particular route, you can read my detailed guide of hiking from Denia to Cova Tallada.
The name of Playa de Pope comes after a Russian Orthodox priest, who used to come to bathe in this beach. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Sant Antoni Cape Hike
This short hike from the port of Javea to Cap Sant Antoni (eng. Saint Anthony Cape) is just the first steps of the longer hiking trail all the way up to Mount Montgo – PR-CV 355 Port Xàbia-Montgo. Regardless of it, the hiking route stands out on its own as a worthy walk. The climb up to the lighthouse of Cap Sant Antoni is not that challenging but rewarding in different ways. To be more precise, the hiking route has spectacular views of the beaches of Javea, Mount Montgo, Portixol Island, and Cap Prim. Possibly the most impressive part of the hike is the local vegetation, which just seems to be greener than everywhere else. All things considered, the Cap Sant Antoni hike is an easily accessible and rewarding hiking destination.
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From my own experience of hiking in Marina Alta, I would consider Port Javea – Cap Sant Antoni hiking trail to be the least demanding one. The whole route is a gradual climb up the cliff without any major obstacles ensuring maximum pleasure. Even more so, this straight-up-forward hike doesn’t have any really dangerous passages, thus it is a viable option for more experienced families. I’ve seen many people walking their dogs on this hiking route and I can’t blame them. If I was living in Javea and had a dog – I would probably do the same.
Once you get on top of Cap Sant Antoni don’t forget to visit all viewpoints to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Javea Bay and beyond while doing so. I wouldn’t recommend going off the official route as things might get ugly rather quickly. Along with Sant Antoni lighthouse, you’ll find remains of the past eras. Though I haven’t found any information on this, I’m sure Cap Sant Antoni was inhabited by humans since the deep stone age.
There is not much to say – getting on the top of Mount Montgo is the ultimate challenge in Marina Alta. The only question is how you want to do it. The route I chose is not the shortest, but still doable within a day, and the upside is that the climb from Jesus Pobre is not as steep as the alternative options. Neither route is recommended for less experienced hikers. Climbing mountains is very rewarding but the hike itself might be tough and not as interesting as the amazing alternatives in Marina Alta I mentioned before. Nevertheless, Mount Montgo will open breath-taking views to those who dare to challenge it.
During the hike, be sure to appreciate the walls of an ancient Iberian town – La Penya de l’Àguila, which dates as far as to the 5th century BC.
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Since Marina Alta is the easternmost part of mainland Spain, the main roads tend to cut this beautiful “corner”. While most of the region could be easily accessed, getting to the coastline of Marina Alta is not as simple as anywhere else in the Province of Alicante. Given that, the quality of the local roads is very good compared to the other regions due to the richness of the area.
You can reach Marina Alta by either AP-7 Autopista Mediterraneo (eng the Mediterranean Motorway), or the lesser N-332, which will get you just a bit closer to the heartland of Marina Alta. Either way, you need to look for Benissa or Teulada (CV-740) – the main gateways to the rest of the region. Both can only be accessed from N-332, thus you’ll need to enter it from AP-7 first to get any further.
Pro tip: From 2021, most of AP-7 in Marina Alta is free.
Without a doubt, Marina Alta is the most beautiful part of a really attractive Costa Blanca. The same case could be made not only for the Valencian Community but for the whole coastline of the Spanish mainland of the Mediterranean. Having that in mind, I must admit that it was not a love from first sight for me. Most of Costa Blanca is massively urbanized and almost exclusively for ex-pats and tourists. As a result, it is even hard to find that desired temperament of Spanish culture in the area. Of course, there is one upside to that – you’ll find communicating in English around these areas much easier than in most of Spain.
Having all that in mind, it took me a while to learn to see all the prettiness of the region through the crowds of tourists and ex-pat houses. What did I find? Exceptionally beautiful landscape, where mountains meet the sea. Marina Alta has everything a true nature lover desires. Traveling through Marina Alta’s inland and coastal areas made me wonder what the whole landscape looked like without all the urbanization, especially during the magic times of the Iberian Culture. These people chose Marina Alta and the surrounding landscape as their home for a reason and so do thousands of people today.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Having traveled all the Mediterranean coastline of mainland Spain (except for some parts of Catalonia), without a second of thought, I would rank Marina Alta as one of the top 3 regions in the country by the sea, only falling behind Maro-Cerro Gordo Cliffs in Costa Tropical, where some of the tallest mountains in Europe, Sierra Nevada meet the Mediterranean. As far as I’m concerned, many parts of inland Marina Alta, keep up to this high standard, making it a truly mesmerizing and exceptional part of Spain.
One might wonder, what’s so special about Marina Alta? First of all, it is rather green. Especially given the rather dry and arid neighborhood this is clearly visible after entering the area. Second, as the name suggests (eng. High Port), the terrain of Marina Alta is very mountainous. As a matter of fact, it is one end of the Baetica Mountains system, which has famous Gibraltar on the other end of it. These mountains shape Marina Alta from the dramatic cliffs on the coastline to mesmerizing small towns entangled in-between the difficult landscape of inland of the region. To put it simply, every part of Marina Alta is worth anybody’s time exploring it. So, if you find yourself spending your vacation in one of the popular coastline towns in Marine Alta like Denia, Javea, or Calpe, a day trip to the inland of the region would be a great idea to diversify your holiday time in Costa Blanca.
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This part of Marina Alta’s countryside is located in the Province of Alicante, entangled between tall mountains and peaceful valleys. The landmarks of the route are interconnected by their historical ties, which will help us to uncover the secrets of various sites from the past and their remote yet exceptionally beautiful locations and local crafts. This route includes some of my favorite parts of Marina Alta inland – there are very few places, where history, mountains, and sea are combined in such a balanced harmony.
Pego is a great example of how the success of a town in Marina Alta depends on its symbiosis with the natural environment. For such a humble town, Pego has a lot to show – you can visit the Ecce-Homo Chapel, the saint of the municipality, the Parish Church of Asuncion with the beautiful Plaza of Townhall nearby, and the Franciscan Convent – these are only the religious sites of Pego. The cultural ones include the Museum of Contemporary Art, the culture center house, and the ethnological museum, which is dedicated to the growth of rice. The most famous landmark in the town is the natural park of Marjal de Pego-Oliva. It is one of the major biodiversity areas in the Mediterranean and the location of the cultivation of rice, that so many people in Pego rely on.
The marsh of Pego-Oliva was granted a natural park status in 1994. These are vast areas of wetlands situated between the edge of the Baetic Mountains, between the Provinces of Alicante and Valencia, and the town of Pego and Oliva, respectively. Its 12 ha are covered by reedbeds, ricefields, and lagoons, all of which are interconnected by various rivers and canals, which results in the area of great natural wealth and productivity. The excellent water quality is not only suitable for endangered species, like Whiskered Tern, the Valencian tooth carp, the marbled teal, and the European pond turtle but in fact, maintains the best-preserved underwater vegetation in all of Spain.
Some say Absudia is among the most beautiful towns in the inland of Marina Alta, but it is Forna Castle that makes this area popular. The name of the town comes from Arabic word meaning “the hermitage”, it obviously shows its Moorish origins, though the oldest archeological evidence of settlement dates back to the Bronze Age, probably of Iberian origin. During the visit, be sure to dedicate some time to explore white Moorish narrow streets of Adsubia, it is the main highlight of the town itself. Some notable landmarks include Church of Saint Vincent Ferrer , a town hall and a public loundry building of Adsubia.
Meanwhile Forna almost couldn’t be more different. Its rich Christian heritage is highlighted by the Templar castle of Forna. Both the town and the castle are in surprisingly good state. In Forna you can also visit Canalobres cave and do some hiking in the nearby mountainous setting. In short, the two towns prooves the very rich variety of both landscape and culture in a very narrow area of Marina Alta.
The valley is separated into eight different urban areas: Benirrama, Beniali, Benissiva, Benitaia, la Carroja, Alpatro, Llombai, and Benissili. Together they form sort of a township on the inner-outer edge of Marina Alta and inter-connecting on an ancient road between Denia and an old capital, Xativa. The Vall de la Gallinera offers truly spectacular panoramic views to its visitors. The idyllic scenery of rural harmony with remote houses in-between cherries, olives, almonds, carrobs and orange trees, and other woods and fields of whom the area is most famous for the first two. The Vall de la Gallinera is proud to be the first area in the whole of Europe to produce cherries every year. The deep agricultural traditions are carved into the surrounding tall stone walls of mountains, forming beautiful terraces and defining the romantic picture of the Vall de la Gallinera. For a brief moment, one could be forgiven for mistaking this exceptional scenery for one of Southeast Asia.
A visit to the Vall d’Alcala will bring you backward in time. You’ll be surprised by the ingenuity of its past visitors. Vall d’Alcala is famous for its Moorish past. In the area, you’ll find two very well-preserved but old refrigerated areas, which served as refrigerators for the people of the past. Another popular tourist destination is L’Atzuvieta – probably the best conserved Moorish village in the Valencian Community. Despite these interesting historical relics, Al-Azraq is the most famous thing to come out of the Vall d’Alcala. The legendary Arab leader was born in the municipality of Alcala de la Jovada, which he loved and fought for against Jaime I. Al-Azraq died in the battle of Alcoy in April 1276, giving birth to one of the most famous festivities in this part of Spain – Moros and Cristianos (Moors and Christians). To this day, it is celebrated in most of the towns in Marina Alta.
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Vall d’Ebo
It is a location of exceptional natural beauty, defined by its picturesque sites like natural pools, potholes and the Barranc del Infern. Above all of them, undoubtedly, the most interesting landmark is Cova del Rull, where you can embrace the beauty of various stalagmite and stalactite formations. There is also Ethnological Museum situated in the area.
Unfortunately, the natural beauty of Vall d’Ebo is still in recovery after the devastating wildfires of 2022. About 12,150 hectares of vegetation were destroyed in a perimeter of 100 km / 62 mi. The number of these wildfires is increasing every year due to increasing days of drought.
Route 2: El Verger – Ondara – Beniarbeig – La Rectoria
Distance: 12 km / 7.45 mi
The connection between these towns and the raison d’etre of this route is Sierra de Segaria – a beautiful mountain range covering 94 000 sq. m with its tallest peak reaching 504 m / 1 653.54 ft. It might sound not that much, but given that the mountain is located 6 km / 3.73 mi from the sea, Sierra de Segaria is one of the most notable landmarks on the coastline of Marina Alta. The mountain separates two beautiful valleys: the Valle de Gallinera and the valley of River Girona.
The evidence and traces found of a major Iberian settlement in this area with the largest portion of the ruins belonging to the municipality of Benimeli. In fact, most of the archaeological remains were found on the hillside close to this town. I expect that the sea level was much closer to Sierra de Segaria 2 500 years ago when the Iberian culture flourished.
El Verger
Being another town on the list of Muslim origins, El Verger remained so even after the Christian conquest. Only after the expulsion of Moriscos, the town had to be repopulated by Christians from Denia, Pego, and Balearic islands. Until modern times, the economy of El Verger was always agriculture. Given its humble history, the town still has something to offer. The points of interest worth attention are the Tower of Duke Medinaceli’s Palace, the Parish Church from 1732, and the Moorish Cremadella Tower dating as far back as the XIII-XIV centuries. While it is situated right next to Sierra Segaria, the most interesting natural feature of El Verger is the all-year-flowing river Girona.
Given the history of the town, it is probably not surprising that the biggest festivity in El Verger is Moros and Cristianos. Other include celebrations in honor of San Roque, San Isidro, and Virgen del Rosario. All are held in August.
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Ondara
Except for Sierra de Segaria, the entire territory of Ondara is practically flat. The foot of this mountain is where we find the earliest footprints of human inhabitants, the Iberians, but it was Muslims who left the biggest fingerprints in Ondara, most notably the irrigation system. After they were expelled in 1609, the area was settled by the Christian people from the Balearic Islands. In the XIX century, Ondara saw growth and restructuration to become a town with a wide variety of services that we know today.
During your trip, be sure to visit the clock tower, locally known as “Torre del Reloj”. It is part of an old Moorish Castle, which had four such towers but only this one remained to see the modern times. The other points of interest are the XVII century Nunnery, the Parish Church from the XVI century, and the in-famous bullring, the only one in the region.
The food traditions in Ondara are very typical for the region combined with the Mediterranean diet and a wide variety of tapas. In July, the town celebrates two important local festivals: one in honor of Virgen de la Soledad (Eng “Loneliness”) and the popular Saint Jaume. Another important festivity in town takes place in November, Ondara Trade Fair, which dates back to 1690.
Beniarbeig
A town of Moorish origins, its more archaic Arabic name was Beniherbey. Today, it is almost just history. After the expulsion of the Moors and later Moriscos, Beniarberg, like most of the settlements in the Valencian Community, fell into a population crisis. Unfortunately, it took much more time for the town to recover than the others. It was repopulated by the Christians only in the 1950s by the people from Andalucia and La Mancha, who were looking for an opportunity. Situated at the foothill of Sierra de Segaria, Beniarberg is surrounded by cultivated orange, almonds, and olive trees. Its urbanization is situated around the main street of Calle Mayor. The parish church of Beniarberg dates back to the XVII century but the most distinctive feature of the town is the all-year constant flow of water in the river Girona. It provides good conditions not only for human settlers but for various species of waterfowl.
La Rectoria
This area of Marina Alta is composed of 5 towns: Sanet y Negrals, Benimeli, El Rafol de Almunia, Sagra, and Tornos. All these peaceful villages share a few things in common: Arab farmsteads’ origins, landscape, and fertile lands. The name “La Rectoria” comes from a religious division that formed after the dismemberment of the rectory of Denia, putting many people of religious service in urgent need of housing. Today, the villages that too in those people form a community.
Situated between two natural marvels of Marina Alta, Sierra de Segaria, and the ever-flowing River Girona, La Rectoria enjoys very fertile land and irrigation systems from the past, making this region perfect for agriculture. One will find many vegetables, and fruits with a specialization in citrus.
Widely associated with various trades and crafts, Gata de Gorgos is a perfect place if you are in need of furniture, decoration, basketry, or traditional food for a very good quality/price ratio. In fact, it is one of the places, known in Spain as “a town of artisans”. These are no mere words, since immemorial times in Gata de Gorgos people have used palms for the craftmanship of baskets and hats. Later, it developed into other industries – at first to various furniture, and later to pottery, ceramics, and glass – creating a local crafts powerhouse.
In the urban center of Gata de Gorgos be sure to visit the XVII century Parish Church of San Miguel and wander through irregular shape streets in the suburb of the Islamic tradition cornered against the Gorgos River. The town houses two permanent sculpture parks as well.
In terms of food, the traditional cocas are the biggest highlight in Gata de Gorgos accompanied by a great variety of rice, stews, and casseroles.
With 7 600 inhabitants, Pedreguer is the most populous town on the list of this route. Big numbers are the most of what this town can be proud of but are not limited to. Pedreguer was first mentioned in 1249, a decade after Christians conquered the region of the territory of the current-day Valencian Community in 1238. Back then, the population of Pedreguer was mainly Islamic, therefore after the expulsion of the Moors in 1609, the town was left almost empty. It was repopulated by the people from the Balearic Islands and to this day the locals could notice particular peculiarities in their speech.
Pedreguer has a wide variety of industries including leather goods, hats, metal manufacturing for a small scale and farming. The best place to buy their craft could be the second-hand market Rastro, which is held every Sunday in the industrial area of Les Galgues.
Hikers should consider the 18 km / 11.18 mi stretch of PR-V53, a circular trail with different levels of difficulty.
Benidoleig
Benidoleig traces its origins to the times of the Moorish people. It was founded originally as one of the Arab farmhouses, installed in the valley of Girona. Benidoleig shares the fate of the region and the town experienced a downfall after the local Moriscos were expelled in 1609. Fortunately, it didn’t take long for the town to bounce back, Benidoleig was repopulated in 1611 by the people from Mallorca. Despite the population change, the design of the town didn’t change much. Its main economy remained agriculture, specializing in dry farming like raisins and citruses.
While in Benidoleig, don’t forget to visit the manor of Finestrat’s Baron, the Parish Church of Sangre de Cristo, and the main attraction in the whole area – Cueva de las Calaveras – 300 m / 984 ft in length and 20 m / 65.61 ft in a height cave system with beautiful domes filled with stalactites and stalagmites.
Orba is another old old town, whose first settlers date back to prehistory and for a good reason. It is situated in a fertile valley protected by mountains – a perfect storm for ancient people. Even the name of the town comes from the Iberian word “Ur-Obia” meaning “where water flows from the bottom of the mountain”, (Having in mind that the Iberian language is yet to be fully translated, I found it very fascinating). Despite Orba’s ancient roots, it was the Moorish conquerors, who based on their agricultural needs, shaped the landscape of the valley into what we know today.
For such a small town, there are quite a few things to do here. Be sure not to miss the parish church and the 16th-century manor house. Foodies shouldn’t miss the local sausages, bakery products, oranges, lemons, almonds, and oils. Orba is also great for souvenirs with its exquisite and authentic pottery and ceramics traditions dating from the Moorish times. The area is also great for hiking and cycling.
This part of Marina Alta consists of four settlements combining a single township, known as La Vall de Laguar. These villages are Benimaurell, Fleix, Campell and Fontilles. Situated deep in Marina Alta, the elevation of these settlements varies from 300 m / 984 ft to 437 m / 1435 ft above sea level. The remote geographical feature of La Vall de Leguar was a natural last stronghold of Valencian Moors after the expulsion in 1609.
Like almost anywhere else in Marina Alta, this area is great for hiking. Places like Barranc de L’Infern, traversed by Girona river, La Sierra del Penyo, or routes trespassing wells and natural springs like the Font del Reinos, Font dels Olbis, Font del Penyo, together with the fountains situated in each settlement.
Traditionally, agriculture was the main economy of the area, but today, it is domestic tourism that has become the main income for the locals. Some rainfed crops still remain, like olives, almonds, and cherry trees.
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Route 4: Vall de Pop
Distance: 25 km / 15.53 mi
The Vall de Pop is animated and fed by Gorgos River, also known as River Xalo, which flows from the mountains around Castell de Castells. The river runs through the towns of Benigembla, Murla, Parcent, and Alcalali, where the valley finally expands and we find Xalo, Lliber, Senija, and Benissa, next to the coastline. The Vall de Pop is an area of great variety: majestic mountains, winding ravines, picturesque grape fields, and coast with cozy coves and dramatic white cliffs.
The Vall de Pop is perfect for active tourism and recreational activities. It has a wide network of hiking trails, which is, undoubtedly, the best way to get the most out of the valley. Sierras de Bernia y Ferrer, la Serella y Xarta, and Gorgos River are the best locations for appreciating the local flora and fauna. Other popular activities include cycling, climbing, paragliding, and kayaking among many others. The Vall de Pop is one of those places, which has something to offer to everybody.
Cultural legacy in the valley goes as deep as it gets – straight to the dawn of humanity in Europe. Cave paintings in the sanctuary Del Pla de Petracos are a part of UNESCO World Heritage site of Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin on the Iberian Peninsula. Also, one can enjoy the rich heritage of Moors like castles and narrow cozy streets that rise and fall below and above dry stone buildings found virtually in every town of the Vall de Pop.
Situated deep in the Vall de Pop, right where the raison d’etre of the whole valley, River Gorgos originates, Castell de Castells feels to be separated from the rest of the world. While it is not the only place in the inland part of Marina Alta that has this feeling, this little cozy town at a privileged location clearly stands out.
The central piece of the town is the Parish Church of Saint Anna. Another important trace of the development of the human race as intelligent species is a set of cave paintings, known as Pla de Petracos and dating back about 8,000 years. Other popular tourist destinations around Castell de Castells, and good opportunities for hiking, are Moorish Castle Penya Castellet, Mount Malla de Llop (1,361 m / 4,365 ft), and Els Arcs, a naturally formed arcs, known as one of the biggest in the whole of Europe of its kind.
Interesting festivals include the lively San Vicente Ferrer, a cultural week starting July 22nd, featuring poetic evenings and traditional dance for all ages. On July 26th, people of the town honor Santa Ana, Castell de Castells’ patron saint, with a magical candlelit procession. But probably the most interesting festivity happens in early September, the enchanting Pla de Petracos fiesta unfolds under twinkling trees, offering music, food, and dancing all night long. The weekend culminates with an open-air paella feast as families come together to celebrate.
Known as the gateway to mountains, Parcent might be the best town for hiking in the whole of Marina Alta. All thanks to its perfect location, where Vall de Pop opens up from a narrow valley between mountains to wide relative lowlands. Nevertheless, probably the most interesting feature of the town is hidden in its name. Unlike most of the towns in Marina Alta, Parcent seems to have Latin origins (Persius or Percennius). It also took an important role in the Moorish rebellions as a Christian stronghold.
Interesting historical monuments include the 16th-century Parish Church of the Immaculate Conception. the house of Gabriel Miro, Cave Paintings of l’Abric del Seguili, the Moorish necropolis in Calle l’Era and a farmhouse from the same period. Popular hikes include Coll de Rates, Font de la Foia, Cim Carrascal, and Cova dels Coloms.
Alcalali
After the reconquest, King James I of Aragon donated Alcalali to Doña Berenguela Alonso de Molina in 1268, but the overseers of the town kept changing. It might have resulted in a rather humble town, but that’s why we love it today. The narrow white streets of Moorish design, The Church of the Nativity of Our Lady, the town hall, and the medieval tower of Alcalali, La Solana Castle – there are plenty of historical buildings to see in Acalali. Today, the town of Alcalali accounts only for one-fourth of the population of the township but the surrounding urbanizations and Llosa de Camacho inflates the numbers. The latter town had been absorbed by Alcalali in the 19th century.
During the spring, Alcalali is known as starting point of the hike through the majestic blooming almonds down the valley towards to Benissa. But that is not the only hike, accessed straight from the town. Situated by the foot of the mountain on the edge of the Vall de Pop, Acalali is perfect for the great outdoors.
The main festivals of the town are held on the 24th and 25th of June in honor of Saint Juan Bautista de Mosquera and the Holy Christ of Health, respectively.
The cradle of Muscat. It is no mere feat knowing that Muscat of Alexandria is considered to be the oldest genetically unchanged grape variety in the world. It was, probably, brought to Spain by Romans or even Carthaginians. Despite having many other cultures in a relatively big and fertile valley, wine very much defines not only the image of Xalo but of the whole Vall de Pop.
Every day, in traditional shops one can find local products like almonds, raisin grapes, honey, oranges, and oil, but Xalo is probably known most for its bodegas with a wide range of local DO wines and traditional liquor made of grapes, known as mistela. Other popular ‘souvenir’ foods from Xalo include various dry sausages and exquisite sweets. The best day to come to town for shopping is undoubtedly Saturday when people from across Marina Alta and beyond gather in Xalo for traditional market day.
Thanks to the fertile lands of Vall de Pop, one can enjoy a rich and diverse cuisine including some better-known various rice dishes, cocas, cous cous and local “espencat”, “minxos”, “la borreta de melva, “the putxero amb pilotes” and “mullador amb bull”.
Benissa
Last but not least, rather the opposite of that. Benissa is not only the most populous town in Marina Alta featured in this article but the fifth most populous in the region taking the coastal settlements as well. This accounts for about 11 thousand inhabitants, which is small but not by Marina Alta standards. Benissa is also one of the oldest towns in the region. Though, the name is of Moorish origins (Beni-Eyce, eng “Sons of Christ), the archeological finds suggest, at least, Roman trespassing in the area around the town.
Benissa houses a large Gothic Church, better known as “Catedral de la Marina”. Hopefully, that doesn’t need a translation or any further explanation. The town is also home to the Franciscan seminary and its old convent from 1645. Other historical points of interest include the square of Old Church, La Lonja, the Town Hall, Riverside figure, and many others.
Benissa enjoys its geographical location between the Mediterranean Sea and mountains. It is well reflected in its culture and kitchen. One of the signature dishes is Octopus stew, known as “Pulpo y mass”, while the town is also known for its sausages and cocas.
The main festivities include the icon “Moors and Christians”, which in Benissa is held on the weekend closest to June 29. Other, “more Christian” celebrations include the patron saint festivity dedicated to Immaculate Xiqueta on the last Sunday of April, and a fair in honor of Saint Anthony in January among others.
Most Popular Activities in Marina Alta
Dénia: Sunset Catamaran Cruise
Join us in Puerto Dénia for an unforgettable sunset catamaran cruise filled with music and cava!
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Nestled in the province of Castellon in the region of Valencia lies one of the truly charming villages of Spain – Morella. Known as one of the top 100 most beautiful villages in the country and one of the most beautiful towns in Castellon and the whole of Valencia, Morella is a hidden gem to outsiders’ eyes waiting to be discovered.
Its location, perched high on a rocky hill, has given Morella strategic importance throughout its long existence. This is evident once you see the impressive castle of the town, a dominant feature of Morella, which has played a crucial role in protecting the town’s inhabitants and its cultural heritage. Another striking feature of Morella is its location on a high plateau. One might not notice at first but except for agriculture and roads, there are no signs of any human activities or settlements around the town. This becomes very obvious from Morella’s walls and towers during the night. It is pitch black.
The town is not just a beautiful and historic town, however. It is also a place of warmth and hospitality, where visitors are welcomed with open arms. Morella’s streets are lined with whitewashed buildings adorned with balconies, and its plazas are lively gathering places for locals and visitors alike. There is always something happening in the town, from traditional fiestas and cultural events to weekly markets and fairs. With this article I hope to unveil this unknown tourist destination to foreign visitors to Spain, highlighting Morella’s rich history, culture, local foods, and most interesting landmarks.
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History of Morella
Morella’s history is as rich and varied as the layers of stone in its castle walls. Unfortunately, this came not from goodwill but from necessity. The town’s origins can be traced as far back as the Bronze Age when the Iberian peoples inhabited the area. Later, the Greeks and then the Romans established a settlement here, which was known as Morviedro. The Visigoths conquered the town in the 5th century, followed by the Moors in the 8th century. Its complicated history is hard to uncover but one thing is for sure – everyone saw it as one of the crown jewels in their list of trophies.
“Morella is not a place for any man in the world, but for a king, because it was worth as much as a county with its possessions.” – King Jaime I
During the Middle Ages, Morella became an important frontier town, situated between the Christian and Muslim kingdoms. The town was heavily fortified, and its castle played a crucial role in protecting the town’s inhabitants from attacks. In the 13th century, the troops under King James I of Aragon conquered Morella and incorporated it into his kingdom. During the following centuries, it prospered as a center of agriculture and trade. It was also an important political center, falling in influence only after Valencia and Xativa. Morella’s Gothic church of Santa Maria was built during this time, as were many of the town’s other important buildings.
You don’t have to be a genius to notice that Morella’s rich history is reflected in its many historical landmarks and cultural events. Visitors can explore the town’s castle, churches, and other important buildings, and learn about the town’s fascinating past. Morella’s historical legacy is a testament to the town’s enduring spirit and its determination to preserve its cultural heritage for future generations.
Morella is also known for hosting one of the most important festivals in the Valencian Community and one of the oldest festivals in Spain – Sexenio. It is expected to attract between 100,000-200,000 visitors within a span of 10 days in 2024. It so happens, that the festival happens only every 6 years and if you miss one, you might not get a chance for a second time. Due to its importance, the whole town got a cyclical rhythm of 6 years awaiting and preparing for the celebration of Sexenio. As a matter of fact, translated from Spanish “Sexenio” means “six-year term”, so its frequency shouldn’t surprise Spanish speakers. Originally it was celebrated on the third Sunday of August but the festival has expanded over the years. The next Sexenio de Morella is going to happen in 2024, August 17-26.
It all began on February 14, 1673, when by the popular request of the people, the council of Morella declared that every six years the town will hold a celebration in honor of the Virgin of Vallivana out of gratitude for what she’ve done for Morella and its inhabitants. 1672 was a terrible year for the town. A terrible plague was ravaging Morella. Many died, and many more would have if it was not for the Virgin. When she arrived to the town, the Virgin of Vallivana was carefully assisted throughout the sick streets of Morella, and wherever she went, people got cured. For modern people, this must sound like a miracle but I believe that back then Morellans had no doubt of the powers of the Virgin. Therefore, Sexenio every six years is a thanksgiving to the savior of the town and its people.
During the festival, the town is transformed with colorful decorations over every balcony and window within its limits. It is accompanied by constant traditional dancing and lively music. One of the main highlights of the festival is the procession of the “giants and big-heads”, which consists of giant puppets and people wearing oversized masks and costumes. In addition to the festive celebrations, the Sexenio de Morella also includes traditional religious ceremonies and cultural events. That is the raison d’etre of the festival after all. Sexenio is an important part of the town’s cultural heritage and is a time for the people of Morella to come together and celebrate their history and traditions. Visiting Morella during the Sexenio festival might be a good time to learn more about the unique character of this lovely yet mysterious town.
Besides its medieval and eerie streets of the Old Town, Morella has some historical landmarks to visit that stand out from the rest and at the same time fill in the whole picture just perfectly. Its history and geographical location shape its image. Being a strategically important fortress and town, Morella’s fortifications clearly stand out, but at the same time its location in, sometimes, a very harsh northeastern part of the Iberian mountain system, put the inhabitants of the town at the mercy of some higher powers. Churches are plentiful.
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The most iconic historical landmark and attraction in Morella is, of course, the castle that sits atop a hill overlooking the town and offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside of Els Ports. The history of this castle is basically the history of Morella itself.
The current castle dates back to the 13th century and has served as a military stronghold, a royal residence, and a prison. Today, visitors to Morella can explore the castle’s walls, towers, and courtyards, and take in the stunning views of the surrounding countryside. The castle’s museum houses an impressive collection of archaeological finds, medieval weaponry, and historical artifacts that provide a fascinating glimpse into Morella’s past.
Based on historian Marqués de Lozoya opinion, Santa Maria minor basilica is the most beautiful gothic church in the region of Valencia. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Basilica de Santa Maria la Mayor
This Gothic-style church is located in the heart of Morella’s historic center and dates back to the 14th century. The church features impressive stained-glass windows, intricate stonework, and a large bell tower that can be climbed for views of the town. In 1958 it was granted a status of a minor basilica. Some say it is the most beautiful gothic church in the region of Valencia.
Besides Morella castle and its walls, the Portal de Sant Miquel is the most distinctive historical landmark of the town. Constructed in the 14th century with an imposing stone arch and intricate carvings, it leads straight into the old town of Morella. The portal was originally part of the town’s defensive walls and served as an important entrance for travelers and traders. Most of the visitors will enter Morella through this portal straight into the narrow streets of the old town, where they can explore the many shops, restaurants, and historic buildings that make Morella such a popular destination.
This 14th-century Gothic-style old convent of Franciscan monks today is home to a museum that showcases the history and culture of Morella and its surrounding region. The museum includes exhibits on local crafts, traditional dress, and religious art. At the moment, it is closed down for renovation works but still, I found it one of the more interesting landmarks in the town.
Besides being an interesting historical landmark, the aqueduct offers great vistas. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Aqueduct of Santa Lucia
At first sight, the structure might remind of a Roman-style aqueduct but actually, it dates back to the times millennia later, in the 14th century. In some sense, it somewhat makes it a more interesting historical landmark as Romans probably were better builders than Christians from this era. The Aqueduct of Santa Lucia consists of a series of arches and pillars, and is definitely an impressive feat of engineering that has stood the test of time. Like all aqueducts, it was built to supply water to the town from nearby springs. Visitors can hike along a path that follows the aqueduct to trace its origins, the route offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside and a unique perspective on this historic structure.
The main streets of Morella are filled with stores selling local crafts and products. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Local Products & Gastronomy
Besides its stunning appearance, Morella is known for its delicious local products and gastronomy, which reflect the region’s agricultural and culinary traditions. Terroir plays very well into the delicious products and traditional dishes of the town. You can predict what you’ll find on the menu of any given restaurant or tapas bar in Morella from the landscape’s panorama from the tall town’s walls. Morella is famous for its almonds, milk products, meats, dry meats, sausages, truffles, honey, and other foods, generally, listed as ‘land kitchen’. which can be found in local markets and shops. Visitors of Morella can sample these staple foods or the town’s traditional dishes almost anywhere in town, among the most popular are flaons. One can’t leave Morella without trying these gems. They could be acquired almost anywhere in town, most notably in one of the numerous bakeries. Real yummy.
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Morella is a charming and authentic destination that offers visitors a taste of traditional Spain. With its rich history and culture, delicious local products and gastronomy, and stunning natural scenery, Morella is a hidden gem worth exploring. As a golden rule, the status of one of the most beautiful towns in Spain guarantees an exceptional experience and breathtaking dramatic sceneries. Nevertheless, despite being located less than an hour from the ever-busy Mediterranean coast of the region of Valencia, Morella gained the reputation it deserves only among the local tourists from Aragon, Valencia, and beyond.
I especially enjoyed the calm setting of the inland Castellon in early spring, when Almonds were blooming. Morella is surrounded by hundreds of these iconic and typical Spain trees.
Whether you are a history buff, a foodie, or an outdoor enthusiast, Morella has something to offer for everyone. So pack your bags and head to Morella for an unforgettable Spanish adventure.
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
For the longest time, the sun and the sea were all that was required for tourists to pour in from all over Europe and beyond. But as the times shift, so do the needs of people, and with these changes, Benidorm has adapted to meet the needs of its visitors. Today, many interesting destinations within a day-trip distance from the city attract hundreds if not thousands of tourists daily. Looking for engaging activities for its visitors, Benidorm has pushed the nearby places to hit above their weight. Not to say that they are not worth the attention, but some destinations have become so popular that they have started to attract local people from other regions of Spain whereas I can bet there is plenty to see on the same level at least as well.
In short, with time, Benidorm has made a fortune not only for itself but for Marina Baixa in general. In this article, you’ll find the five places you should visit from Benidorm before you start looking somewhere else. If you are more of a nature-lover, I would suggest reading my guide to the best hikes near Benidorm.
Marina Baixa is one of the most beautiful comarcas in the Valencian Community and around. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Map of Places & Hikes Around Benidorm
Altea
Known as the Pearl of Costa Blanca, Altea might be sometimes somewhat overshadowed by Benidorm in the realms of popular tourism but this beautiful town was a name on the map for a longer duration than Benidorm. There is a reason why it has even its own model of SEAT – Spanish automobile manufacturer – Altea is a historical powerhouse in the area and it is well reflected by its cozy white-washed architecture. While it might not be that special in the context of Andalucia, here in the Valencian Community, the white village, Altea shines from afar. That alone is more than enough to attract piles of tourists from Benidorm, Alicante, and much further. Altea is one of those places in the region that doesn’t need an extra advertisement push to make a living. It is a well-worth day trip from Benidorm and around.
Down south in Andalucia, Alta wouldn’t surprise that many people, but here in the Valencian Community, the white village is a true gem. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The name of the town probably comes from the Greek word ‘I heal’. The Greeks had quite a few settlements around the coast of the Mediterranean and Altea was one of them. During the Moorish reign, the town was a part of the Kaifa of Denia. After the Christian Reconquista Altea was quickly fortified with the surrounding walls, which mark the boundaries of the old town to this day. In the last century, the economic and social life has moved to the seaside, where it remains today. That leaves the historical center of Altea open for exploration. Undoubtedly, you’ll fall in love with this town while exploring its endless medieval streets decorated with colourful flowers, Iberian tiles and endless white walls, which this town is famous for.
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El Castell de Guadalest
The crown jewel of the area – Guadalest is probably the most sought one day trip in Marina Baixa. It is the only town in Alicante Province listed among the 100 most beautiful villages in Spain and that is not the only decorated title of this magical village. In 2016 Guadalest has joined the Federation of the most beautiful villages in the world. Hopefully, at this time you are already wondering what is so special about Guadalest?
This charmful town is located up in the Baetic mountains range, not too far from the legendary Puig Campana, by the river Guadalest, which is now transformed into a giant beautiful water reservoir, which looks like a large mountain lake – the Italian equivalent would be Lake Como and Lake Garda. The town of Guadalest offers not only spectacular vistas over the reservoir but the surrounding mountains and the Mediterranean Sea! Of course, its natural beauty is not the main reason of Guadalest’s acknowledgement, without its unique placement it could be any other town in the area.
The old town of this beautiful town is located on a small plateau on top of a rock. This limited area proved to be enough for a castle, a church, a palace, a town square, and one one-street village. Today, we can see that throughout the ages Guadalest has managed to expand beyond the rock, the city is interconnected through a gate carved out in the rock itself. Everything combined, Guadalest is a true unicorn not only near Benidorm but in the Valencian Community overall. It is an obvious must-visit from Benidorm.
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Algar Waterfalls
Freshwater is one thing that seems to be lacking in sunny Spain, especially in dry areas like the Province of Alicante. For that reason alone, waterfalls in general gain extra interest compared to the countries up north. Without a doubt, the Algar Waterfalls are the most popular waterfalls in the area around Benidorm. As a matter of fact, it was the Benidorm ITVs series that turned this natural wonder into a popular tourist destination after an appearance in one of the episodes. Today, together with Guadalest, the Algar Waterfalls are the most popular one day trip destinations from Benidorm.
Joanbanjo, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
On your trip to this in-land paradise, you’ll get a chance to explore the beautiful area around this natural phenomenon on your own. There will be plenty of time to see the most picturesque vistas, and test yourself in the cold waters of many ponds surrounding the waterfalls, and you don’t even have to worry about bringing drinks and food as there are plenty of restaurants and bars on site. Everything combined, the Algar Waterfalls is a perfect one-day getaway destination to nature with all the infrastructure you might need.
Personally, I think, Marina Alta is the most beautiful region in the Province of Alicante. Located on the border with the Province of Valencia, Marina Alta is like a mountain wall with its cliffs facing the Mediterranean sea. As a matter of a fact, this is where the Baetic Mountains end, stretching across the Spanish coastline up to Gibraltar itself. The terrain of Marina Alta is so mountainous that the area has a different climate, with often milder temperatures and more rainfall. This results in a much richer flora compared to the agricultural or desertifying areas of the other areas surrounding Benidorm.
Benissa and Teulada-Moraira is probably the best-kept secret of Marina Alta, it is often over-shadowed by the very popular Denia and exclusive Javea. Despite all the advantages of the regional powerhouses, Benissa and Teulada-Moraira can stand on their own with their strengths and wonders. Whether it is the white cliffs facing the Mediterranean, the ancient Iberian settlements, even more, ancient human-cradle caves or probably the most beautiful beaches Spain has to offer, Benissa and Teulada-Moraira is always full of surprises. This area of Marina Alta is a great way to run away from the ever-busy Benidorm to the island-like remote nature for a day.
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Valencia City
Sure Benidorm has a big city feeling but it is nothing compared to a juggernaut like Valencia. The influence of this regional Capital extends far beyond the community, Valencia is the third biggest city in Spain and is classed in a different weight category than the nearby Alicante. While it is possible to reach the latter city from Benidorm by train, Valencia is not that well connected. Luckily, there are plenty of coaches offering their services to comfortably transfer you to and from Valencia.
On your day trip to Valencia, you’ll get a chance to learn more about this regional Capital from an English-speaking driver to make the most of your journey. Valencia is a very big city and there are plenty of things to do, so be sure to plan your visit we’ll. Among the top things to do in Valencia are its old town with the beautiful cathedrals, churches, and the Roman and Arabic city walls. Maestalla stadium is a must-visit for soccer fans, while foodies will love their visit to the central market. It is a sin to visit Valencia without trying out the local favourite food – paella, just don’t forget to bring friends because it is often sold only for 2 people and more. There is probably no better place to enjoy your paella than the beautiful promenade by the sea in El Cabanyal.
The buildings of Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias could be mistaken for alien ships that landed on Earth. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Finally, don’t forget to visit the City of Arts and Science – a true contemporary architectural masterpiece. This area has quickly become the symbol of Valencia and includes the biggest aquarium in Europe. I will not even go into the rich history of Valencia, which is one of the oldest cities in the country, there is simply too much to do within one day in this beautiful Spanish city but it is well worth a shot.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Gibraltar of Valencia, the most underrated town in Spain, the city in the sea, as interesting as it is, Peniscola gets many different names for many different reasons. It is not unjustified, the town has a very interesting history. Throughout the ages, many different factions found Peniscola as their home: Iberians, Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Knights Templar, and, finally, the famous Antipope Benedict XIII, locally known as Papa Luna, found refuge until his death in 1423. Peniscola castle was a suitable fortress for the declining religious leader, who out-of-fear of being attacked, reinforced this stronghold even further. The original constructions of the keep are attributed to the Templars, but they built it on the top of a Moorish Castle, which was probably built on an even older fortress.
As a result, it is hard to tell which came first: Peniscola or Gibraltar, thus the name “The Gibraltar of Valencia” might be unfair. The name is rather due to the wide knowledge of Gibraltar. It feels like every fortification on a huge rock by the sea is called “the Gibraltar of something” these days. Meanwhile, Peniscola is relatively unknown to mainstream international tourism. Despite that, the town has a lot of visitors. It is nowhere close to being underrated, rather marks a blind spot of the English-speaking community. One way or another, Peniscola has a lot to show off, and knowingly or unknowingly, most of its visitors will be pleasantly surprised by the city in the sea. There is so much hidden underneath the bricks of Peniscola Castle that it might be a wise idea to hire a local guide to get the most of it.
Though the shape of the fortress is still intact, one can only truly visit Peniscola Castle using imagination. Only the rocks remain of what once a great castle with beautiful gardens and frescoes. Most of the fortress was restored and even some walls were added for the shooting of Anthony Mann’s movie “El Cid”. Today, Peniscola Castle is a popular tourist destination and righteously so. All thanks to an exceptionally rich history and the continuous appearances in the popular culture, including the iconic George R. R. Martin’s “Game of Thrones”.
The artillery park and the modern gardens of castle join the medieval walls with renaissance ones. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
3D map of Peniscola historical city.During his residence, Papa Luna transformed the typical medieval Templar courtyard into papal gardens. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
How to get to Peniscola?
Peniscola is located in the northern part of the Valencian Community – Province of Castellon, just below Ebro delta in Catalonia. The famous Spanish Mediterranean motorway AP-7 is situated right next to the town.
Car is the recommended way of getting around in these parts of Spain. Check the map for the available parking locations.
During the peak times, the closest parking to Peniscola Castle is almost always full. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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By train
There are local and inter-regional trains, connecting the Valencian Community with Barcelona and Cartagena, running by Peniscola. Unfortunately, the closest train station is located in the neighboring town, Benicarlo.
By bus
There is an intercity public bus running between Peniscola – Benicarlo – Vinaros. You can find the timetables here.
By car
Despite the direction you are coming from, Peniscola could be either approached by AP-7 motorway or N-340. Roads CV-141 and CV-140 connect the town to the motorways.
Peniscola is a little authentic oasis in the very touristic Mediterranean coast of Spain. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
History of Peniscola
There are so many historic layers to Peniscola that often much of it is left out in mainstream tourism. Among examples of stories, which would be advertised almost anywhere else in Spain is the legend of Hannibal swearing an oath to his father, Hamilcar Barca, to never be friends with Romans; Nor nobody talks about the mythical Greeks, to whom the name origins of Peniscola is accredited to – Chersonesos – the Greek word for peninsula; For more than 500 years, Moors also had a castle here and referred to it as Baniskula. Those times must have had some great stories as well; And finally, almost anybody ever talks about the first settlers of the area – the iconic Iberian. During their reign, I imagine it was more of a natural wonder coupled with their shrines to appreciate the beauty of the whole magical setting.
Whichever period you choose, it always appears that Peniscola captured the attention of people, there is no reason to assume that it wouldn’t capture yours. If you want to learn even more about the history of Peniscola, consider hiring a local guide for your tour to the castle and artillery park.
The building known as the ‘Polvorin’ belonged to the Castle during the period of Knights Templar and was used as Templar tank. Now it is fully covered by seashells. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Templar Order in Peniscola
During an exchange of holdings in Tortosa, in 1294 Peniscola was peacefully transferred from the Kingdom of Aragon to Templars Order to help protect the area from Muslims and pirates.
The mighty Romanesque fortress of Peniscola was built between 1294 and 1307 by the Knights Templar, the same year they were evicted and arrested by James II of Aragon under the orders of Avignon Pope Clement V. The timing was such that the Order probably felt what was coming and built the castle in Peniscola as their final refuge. The fortress remained the main command center of the Knights Templar Order until 1312 when the same Pope disbanded the order under the pressure of King Phillip IV of France.
The romanesque room was used by all of its masters for receptions, hearings and solemn acts. Its ceiling is still reminiscent of its past with Templar symbols and iron rings, which used to hold lamps. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
After the Templar Order got dissolved, King James II of Aragon persuaded Pope John XXII to let him reorganize the properties of the former order in Aragon and Valencia as a frontier of defenses of the Christian domain against Moors and pirates in the Iberian Peninsula. Although the main base moved to Montesa Castle, Peniscola remained under the banner of the newly formed Order of Montesa.
Anitopope Benedict XIII transformed the second level of Peniscola Castle as his headquarters. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Papa Luna of Peniscola
Other than the Templar Order, Papa Luna (Antipope Benedict XIII) was the other popular figure to find its final refuge in the castle of Peniscola. In 1411, due to his persistence and refusal, the Antipope got expelled from the Christian Church, after which he moved from Perpignan to Peniscola. Benedict XIII converted Knights Templar Castle to his Papal seat, making it the third Holy See in the world together with Avignon and Rome.
In 1406 Pope Gregory XII, situated In Rome, offered Papa Luna to resign together to elect a new Pope, who would reunite Christians, but he was stubborn and throughout his life, the rogue Pope never stopped believing that he is the only true reign to be the Head of the Christian world. During his life in Peniscola Castle, Papa Luna worked tirelessly to protect his rights and position as legitimate Pope, leaving a body of written work that was his final legacy of colorful life. Benedict XIII lived in Peniscola Castle until he died in 1423.
The Fortress remained the Papal seat to his successor, Antipope Clement VIII, who after an agreement with Rome, agreed to abandon his positions in favor of recognizing Pope Martin V. That terminated the remains of Avignon Papacy and ended the saga which officially destroyed the legendary Templar Order. Though the fruits of their knowledge and skills remain to this day.
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King Phillip IV of France
Personally, it feels to me like King Phillip IV of France was the main antagonist of this whole historical period, and he turned out as a clear winner. He owned large sums of money to both Knights Templar and Jews and decided to get rid of both with the excuse of them being a state within a state. Seeing the end of the most powerful order of Crusaders was no easy task. As a result, King Phillip IV of France had to confront the Pope itself, which resulted in a victory against the Holy See and Papal clergy transfer to the enclave of Avignon, just under the wing of the victorious King. As I mentioned before, both the Knights Templar and the line of Popes and Antipopes, originated from Avignon, met their end in Peniscola Castle. King Phillip IV of France came out on top of all religious institutions.
The actual name of the town, Peniscola, comes from a local evolution of the Latin word “Peninsula”. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Bastion of Rennaisance
The city in the sea got its final iconic shape and fortifications during the Renaissance. In 1563, during the reign of Felipe II, an Italian architect J. B. Antonelli visited Peniscola and projected the current form of the fortress. It was a modern type of fortification, many haven’t heard the word “bastion” before the transformation. It was constructed in a shadow of a possible confrontation with another superpower at the time – the Ottoman Empire. Luckily, Peniscola Castle never got to experience the battle it was built for.
Some tunnels from artillery park lead to the old castle port – Porteta, others – outside the walls. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Due to limited space, the architect had to be creative. The internal vaults were used to establish arsenals, mess halls, and munitions dump. These areas were used to house a school for children between 1912 and 1971. The spaces of gunboats were used as windows of the classrooms.
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Personal Experience
While I have heard that Peniscola is an exceptionally beautiful and interesting town, I didn’t expect it to have such a rich history. Combined with the authenticity, it was a pleasant surprise. Peniscola is like a gust of fresh air along the coast full of hotels and various entertainment facilities, which have emerged only in relatively recent years to support the growing tourism. The mild weather and warm sea on the Mediterranean coastlines of Spain is the main attraction for most of the visitors, therefore it is a sweet treat to find such a historic bastion for a change.
The experience of visiting the castle itself was no ordinary tour to any given museum of similar origins. While the very heart of the city is a part of the fortress, the very tip of it on Peniscola rock oversees it all. The area surrounding the castle sorts out in front of your eyes like a map. No surprise, the Knights Templar, Antipope Benedict XIII, and many others, having as many enemies as they had, found Peniscola as a natural spot for a fortress. As a result, Peniscola is a very rich and picturesque tourist destination – for sure worth a day-visit or more.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Torrevieja is located within a unique area of Spain. Its low profile made it so that some parts of the region are below sea level. This has produced various water bodies within the area and when it comes to it in terms of bird habitats, whatever that occurred naturally, or was done by humans centuries ago to extract salt from the sea, the origins are not relevant. The plains of Vega Baja del Segura are natural wetlands, which provide good conditions to many migrating birds and some species who adapted to live here throughout the year. I’m confident that you’ll have many interesting encounters with various birds whichever you look for them or not. Certainly, the area is densely populated by both humans and birds. Situated between prime bird-watching locations like El Hondo, San Pedro del Pinatar, and the local salt lagoons of the city, one thing is certain – Torrevieja is great for birding enthusiasts.
If Costa Blanca belongs to ex-pats and tourists, El Hondo is a real metropolis of birds. Situated just about 30km / 19 mi from the Mediterranean Sea, this birds’ paradise would impress even casual visitors. Though El Fondo consists of many lakes and ponds, the main attraction is situated just next to the center of El Hondo Nature Park. A 1km long hiking trail is like a “bird safari”. You could spend hours observing the marvelous species even without actually starting the trail. Across the whole range of the hiking route, you’ll find four bird-watching cabins and a bridge over a pond filled with various ducks, hens, and other bird species. All of it covers only a small part of El Hondo. While most of it is preserved for the birds and the staff of the park only, it is possible to reach much more bird-watching cabins in the south, or contact the park rangers to arrange a bird-watching tour deep within El Hondo Nature Park.
Though Greater Flamingos are a common sight, it is rare to see them from up-close. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Bird to See
Marbled teal
White-headed duck
Red-knobbed coot
Purple swamphen
Glossy ibis
Derek Keats from Johannesburg, South Africa, CC BY 2.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0>, via Wikimedia CommonsEl Hondo Nature Reserve is located just 30 km / 18.6 mi from Torrevieja. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Torrevieja and La Mata Nature Park
Salt lagoons of Torrevieja and La Mata are an obvious destination for bird-watching. Together with the Segura River, they build a natural sanctuary for many birds. The vineyards surrounding the southeastern side of La Mata Lagoon make this part of the area exceptionally attractive to a great variety of species. No surprise that the very heart of the nature park resides here. From what I saw this is the best place for bird-spotting around Torrevieja, especially if you are a casual bird watcher. My personal favorites are hoopoes, red-legged partridges, Iberian grey shrikes, and many smaller species of birdies.
There are plenty of bird-watching towers around the perimeter of La Mata Salt Lagoon. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
In the water of salt lagoons lookout for avocets, stilts, and various species of plovers. Endangered Kentish Plover is the dearest one of the area. Trees are the home for countless small birdies. You’ll probably be going to hear wrynecks from afar, but good luck spotting them. Graceful doves will be what you’d get. This is only a small forecast of what you’ll see in this birds’ paradise, the salt lagoons of Torrevieja and La Mata are.
Birds to See
Kentish plover
Iberian Magpie
Eurasian hoopoe
Red-legged padridge
Stone curlew
Nrik kiran, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia CommonsLa Mata Nature Park has a high variety of natural environments and all of them are dominated by birds. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Santa Pola Lagoons
Pink Flamingos – the main and certainly a good enough reason to visit the salt lagoons of Santa Pola. It is one of the sanctuaries of these majestic birds in the Valencian Community. Flamingos are so plentiful that spotting them is almost 100% guarantee at any time. No gear is required either, all you have to do is simply drive through the lagoons on the road N-332 between Santa Pola and Torrevieja. There are few parking lots, where you can stop to observe flamingos in detail but generally, they tend to shy away from these ponds to the ones further from the road.
This is where binoculars or spotting scope comes in handy. Though spotting birds here is generally easy, the gear is mandatory to enjoy the company of pink greater flamingos and other birds. Together with gulls and stilts, these elegant birds usually dominate the lagoons, but keep your eye on
Bird to See
Greater flamingo
Lesser flamingo
Black-winged stilt
Avocet
Kentish plover
Charles J. Sharp, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia CommonsTower of Tamarit is a perfect place for a quick birding stop in Santa Pola. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cabo Cervera
Big numbers of bird species find the sea as their natural home. The problem for bird-watchers is that the spaces are even bigger, thus observing birds might be not as convenient. The general rule of bird spotting by the sea – if they don’t come to you, you go to them. Walking along the coast will ensure encounters with many different bird species. My favorite place for birdwatching around Torrevieja is Cabo Cervera. This rocky cape is a wonder of nature worth exploring on its own but given the birds which feed here – walking along the coast is never boring.
Don’t forget to look out the vast waters of the Mediterranean, where among various species of gulls, Northern gannets dive the sea for food. If you are lucky – you can observe an unlucky individual of these beautiful birds chased by a Great skua. During the off-season of tourism, the walking route could be extended to La Mata beaches for the small Sanderlings and Kentish Plovers.
Bird to See
Kentish plover
Northern gannet
Little egret
Common kestrel
Audouin’s Gull
Andreas Trepte, CC BY-SA 2.5 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5>, via Wikimedia CommonsWader birds, which dominate Cabo Cervera, specialize in finding hidden food. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Segura River Channel
Segura is the longest river in the Province of Alicante. Naturally, it has been the source of life not only for people since prehistoric times but other lifeforms as well. To this day, the river plays an important role in human life and as the result – the delta of Segura river has been heavily industrialized. This greatly affects the potential of this natural hub for many animals including birds. Even despite all the human activities, the river is still filled with birds. The best spotting route from my experience goes from Guardamar de Segura, following the river to the Mediterranean Sea. From there you can follow the coastline and then turn inland through the Park of Alfonse XIII for the maximum variety of bird species. You’ll most likely be going to spot some grey herons, little egrets, great cormorants along with various ducks and hens. Be sure to visit Queen Sofia Park, located between Park of Alfonse XII and Guardamar, for semi-domesticated peacocks and other birds.
xulescu_g, CC BY-SA 2.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Salt Lagoons of San Pedro del Pinatar
There are many reasons to visit the Salt Lagoons of San Pedro del Pinatar and birds are definitely one of them. Within a fairly limited area, you can find the Mediterranean, Mar Menor, and salt lagoons themselves. No surprise this variety attracts a wide range of bird species. The lagoons are dominated by Greater flamingos, elsewhere look for the usual suspects of the Spanish coastline like Kentish plovers and their cousins, accompanied by countless species of gulls and smaller bird species. San Pedro del Pinatar has an exceptional landscape, worth a visit by itself, but you never know who else going to show up on any given day.
Bird to See
Greater flamingo
Kentish plover
Black-necked-grebe
Common shelduck
Audouin’s Gull
Davidvraju, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia CommonsEven in urbanized salty ponds, flamingos are flamingos. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Personal Experience
Without a doubt, I’m yet to fully explore all the depths of birding possibilities in the wetlands surrounding Torrevieja. The potential is so high that I imagine it can only be done throughout years of constant bird watching. There might be very few people alive who actually saw everything the area could show and even so – the diversity is probably always changing. Climate change for sure leaves its marks here. Nevertheless, the high diversity of different salinity water bodies provide in the region provide all year round or temporarily home to a great variety of birds. Birding around Torrevieja will be a real joy to any enthusiast of this endeavor.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Unless you are an ex-pat or looking for a warm place by the Mediterranean to become one, the only reason you’d know the name of Torrevieja is its Salty lagoons, locally known as “Salinas”. Technically, it only concludes of two large water bodies: Laguna Salada de Torrevieja and Laguna Salada de La Mata, but I see many bloggers including the salt lagoons of Santa Pola, Elche, and even San Pedro del Pinatar, which is located in a totally different region – Murcia.
Though they don’t add up as the local Torrevieja lagoons, it defines the area in which the fifth largest city in Valenciana Community is located. The area might not be as straight-out beautiful as it is when hiking in the north of Costa Blanca, but nature around Torrevieja has its own flavor of experience and tranquility.
The southern part of Costa Blanca might not have as many advertisement as the northern counterpart, but for sure it has its own pearls. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Best time to visit: April, June, September & October
Map of Hiking Routes
Hiking Torrevieja and La Mata Salt Lagoons
Despite what people might say, neither Torrevieja Salt Lagoon nor La Mata Salt Lagoon has flamingos walking around, with the minor exceptions in the first one. Despite that, the Park of Natural Salt Lagoons is a true refuge for the wildlife, especially birds. Many birdwatching is definitely among the top hobbies of the local communities. I have to admit, with such a big variety it is hard not to fall for it, which I did. You can learn more on my guide for birding around Torrevieja.
Sometimes it is possible to see one or two flamingos, near the salt mine in Salt Lagoon of Torrevieja but getting near them is virtually impossible because that part of the lagoon is private property. There are holes to enter the area but I haven’t seen anybody trying to approach the spots. Generally, people come in to get to the nearest spot of the Lagoon to get awe-inspiring sunsets shots on the glassy surface of Torrevieja Salt Lagoon. Due to exploitation, it is much saltier than the counterpart in La Mata.
One could be forgiven for mistaking this view with a sunset on Titan Moon of Saturn. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Generally, there are no official hikes around this Lagoon and all of the official hiking is done around the wild neighbor.
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La Mata Salt Lagoon
Though most of the hiking and bird-watching is done on the side of La Mata salt Lagoon, facing the sea, it is possible to walk around the whole water body if you’d like. Officially, there are three hiking routes in the park, offering great diversity among them – if you prefer a minimal dose of this natural bird haven – these hikes are just for you. If you feel more adventurous – there are things to see beyond the routes and even some bird watching towers.
I highly recommend taking the yellow route to explore most of the natural ecosystems typically found in wetlands. That includes a wide variety of plants and the protagonists of this type of areas – birds. During the bird nesting season between April and July, you might consider taking the cycling (red) or wine (green) hiking route. Overall, the Salt Lagoon of La Mata is a great example of the natural salty wetlands of Costa Blanca. The park is a great place for bird-watching, but most importantly – the lagoon offers a peaceful area to hike further away from the noisy coastline.
This is where you can see flamingos – at the salt lagoons of Santa Pola. They are so abundant that it is hard to miss them even when simply driving-by. Despite the high numbers, getting close to these majestic birds is not simple. I’ve marked several parking lots on the map along the road throughout the salt lagoons, but have in mind that flamingos prefer privacy. Most of them feed in the ponds further away from the road, where people cannot disturb them. It is almost impossible to make a good shot of the pink birds without professional gear. Personally, I’ve simply learned to enjoy the fact of being surrounded by these beautiful birds without trying to make the moment last forever.
The 2470 ha area of the salt lagoons is an exemplary coexistence between traditional human cultivation and the conservation of nature. These old salty ponds look like they have an entire series of bird species, specialized in these unique natural conditions. This is because some parts of the salt lagoons are no longer in use for the salt extraction, but the whole salination mechanism is still in place. Apparently, birds really like that, thus countless species could be found within the salty ponds including flamingos, egrets, avocets, and many other bird species.
The flamingos are not the only pink things in the area. Thanks to the salt, a wide variety of plants and the ground itself have some amount of pink coloration, which grants the park some exceptional beauty. There is probably no better place to learn about the flora of the park than the hiking route in the Salt Lagoons of del Pinet. This 4 km / 2.48 mi hiking route will uncover all the secrets of this landscape: from the practical use of local herbs in ancient medicine to the mechanics of producing salt in these ponds.
Hiking route of del Pinet goes through old salt lagoons and sand dunes next to the Mediterranean. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
If you want to learn more about salt cultivation in these areas, consider taking either red or green hiking route in the Nature Park of Salt Lagoons of Santa Pola.
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Sierra de Santa Pola – Santa Pola Lighthouse
From the first sight, the lighthouse of Santa Pola and the cliff on which it stands might seem mediocre, but in fact, there is much more hidden beneath the surface. First of all, Santa Pola Lighthouse is actually a medieval watchtower – Talaiola Tower. It was used to observe Tabarca or the Mediterranean for pirate ships and signal it to the people inside the fortress of Santa Pola. Such towers could be found across Costa Blanca. In fact, Torrevieja is named after one of such towers: Torre (eng. Tower) and Vieja (eng. Old). The actual tower is located on a hill, close to Cabo Cervera.
Escaletes Watch Tower could be easily reached on a short hike from the northern part of Santa Pola. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Second, the whole Sierra de Santa Pola is actually a fossil of approx. 5-million-year-old coral reef atoll. Taller than any of its surroundings, the 5 km diameter rock has slowly risen from the sea like a newly formed iceberg in slow motion due to the continuing collision between African and Eurasian plates. The evidence of this is so apparent that on the parts of the rocks, where erosion has opened the atoll, a good geologist could feel like diving in a sea. If you consider wandering off the road to explore the atoll and look for fossils, be sure to wear a good pair of sturdy hiking shoes. Sierra de Santa Pola is the closest you can get in the area to the popular hiking destination in Costa Blanca – Marina Alta.
There are quite a few hiking routes in Sierra de Santa Pola but the trail Connecting Escaletes Watch Tower to Talaiola Tower (Santa Pola Lighthouse) is the best way to experience everything this ancient place has to offer. The 3 km / 1.86 mi one-way hike will provide some glimpses of the local history, great views of the Mediterranean and New Tabarca island, and some insight into the park itself, which will unveil the distant past to any keen eye.
One doesn’t need a PhD in geology to tell that these rocks are somewhat different. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The main reward of Santa Pola Lighthouse hike is a skywalk, facing Tabarca island. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Salt Lagoons of San Pedro del Pinatar
That is right, more salt lagoons. Though it is located in a different region – Murcia – San Pedro del Pinatar is about the same distance from Torrevieja as Santa Pola. The salt lagoons are situated just next to the largest salt Lagoon in Europe – Mar Menor (Eng. Minor Sea). Regardless of that this large body of water feels like freshwater, compared to the salt lagoons of San Pedro del Pinatar.
Though flamingos are also present in these salt lagoons, to me the most distinctive feature of the place is the mud baths. Thanks to the high salinity and fairly large amount of sunlight in the region, Mar Menor muds are suitable for therapeutical treatments. In fact, the salt lagoons of San Pedro del Pinatar are the biggest open-air mud therapy area in whole Europe. They might be too shallow to be drifted upon like in the Dead Sea but it is enough to get the same SPA procedure the famous sea provides, just for free.
In a fairly short distance, Los Encanizadas has plenty of different terrains to offer. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Once you look at the map, the uniqueness of this area is obvious. The narrow passage between Mar Menor and the Mediterranean catches the eye. Thanks to the unique traits and no urbanization, this is where most of the hiking is done. The obvious hiking trail to beat is the round route along the coast of the peninsula, though due to its length it might be wise to pick up a by cycle for the task.
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To sum things up, the salt lagoons of San Pedro del Pinatar have flamingos, sand dunes, the sea, dead-sea-like SPA mud, and the largest salt lagoon in Europe. Sounds impressive, right? Just have in mind that these are also the most urbanized salt lagoons on the list as well.
Located beyond even the large Mar large in Murcia, the hike to Playa de Calblanque (eng. White Street beach) starts at Cala Reona on the edge of Cabo de Palos. Though the route is located a bit further from Torrevieja, Playa de Calblanque is a good alternative destination to expand your exploration of the gorgeous Spanish Mediterranean coast. Situated in a regional park with the same name, the pristine beach and its surroundings is a wonderful quiet getaway to nature, undisturbed by the noisy urbanized coasts of Costa Blanca.
What I love about the coast of Calblanque Park is the impression of being alien in this part of Spain. The dark stones of mountains and cliffs give an impression of being of volcanic origin. As a matter of fact, these dark rocks are ancient relics from the pre-dinosaur times, formed due to certain extreme conditions, close to the melting point. These types of natural stones are called metamorphic rocks. To my experience, they are much rarer at the surface than sedimentary or volcanic counterparts. They were unearthed for the same reason as all Betic Mountains in southeast Spain – the collision of African and Eurasian plates. One can really learn to appreciate the topography of scenery with the help of geology.
The cliffs between Cala Reona & Playa de Calblanque unveils ancient metamorphic rocks. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Because of the very old nature of this landscape, many mining shafts could be found along the hiking route. If it was not for the formation of Calblanque Regional Park in 1992, these magnificent lands would be exploited to this day. Thankfully, the reality is quite opposite. Calblanque Regional Park offers a great refuge not only to many plant and bird species but helps nature lovers to escape from the otherwise noisy neighborhood. It is considered to be among the best-preserved such geological coastlines in the whole Mediterranean. If nothing, hiking along it is a pure joy.
It is a popular notion that the Southern part of Costa Blanca is not as pretty as the northern one. While I agree with the statement due to personal liking of the mountains, not everybody might have the same opinion. The matter of fact is that the areas, surrounding Torrevieja in South Costa Blanca have a different type of landscape. Instead of mountains, cliffs, and rocky beaches of the northern part of the region, the south has sandy beaches, much smaller cliffs, and wetlands. On top of everything, the region around Torrevieja has its own unique climate zone compared to the rest of the Iberian peninsula. The hot semi-arid climate might sound a bit extreme in summer but in turn, it makes every winter trully pleasant not only to humans but birds as well. As the result, the southern part of Costa Blanca doesn’t look like semi-deadlands at all.
..and then again – the sunsets and sunrises on the salty lagoons are just mesmerizing. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Given all of that, hiking in the area around Torrevieja is just different from hiking in the upper part of Costa Blanca. To some, it will provide a more desirable and accessible landscape than the mountainous one, to the others – at least some unique variety in Spain. One thing is for sure, if you learn to appreciate the wonder, the regions around Torrevieja are, the rewards are going to be immense.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Benidorm is the leader of sunny-beach-style tourism in Spain. The city has such a big branding for it, that the entire TV show was created about British holidaymakers, spending their money by the Mediterranean coast. Actually, Benidorm was featured in more than 300 movies or series and it was the host of many festivals including its own like “Song Festival”.
History
The city might seem a bit too pompous, or too one-dimensional, but becoming a tourism megapolis was the only way to prosperity for the city. Regardless of what it might look like, the roots of Benidorm might be ancient, outdating both Muslims and Romans. What is known for a fact is that Benidorm was first mentioned in 1325, and it came to the brink of extinction between 1502 and 1666, when the back-then-settlement became a part of Polop Parish.
The city marks the beginning of the tourism era in the city in 1893, but Benidorm got its current shape only in the early 1950s. Just after ten years, Benidorm became the first city in Spain to allow bikinis, which at first were demonstrated only by the French girls. Soon after – the tourists followed.
At first, Benidorm was covered by horizontal hotels and villas, but during the 70s the demand grew and so did the size of hotels. They became so enormous that they started to resemble skyscrapers. It was the beginning of the modern tourism era of Benidorm.
For the longest time the only resource of Benidorm – the sunny beaches – was more than enough to fulfill the needs of its holidaymakers, but today the demand is changing. The town got surrounded by various theme parks, sports, golf, and other activity venues. These places are so dense that sometimes it is easy to forget, where Benidorm is located at. There are plenty of things to see and to visit around the famous holidays destination. You can learn more about it in my guide to the best day trips from Benidorm.
Best time to visit: April, June, September & October
Benidorm and most of the natural beauty around it are located in Marina Baixa region. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Hiking Around Benidorm
Benidorm might not be the first destination to come into mind for hiking, but it is actually located in a very beautiful part of Spain – Costa Blanca. The terrain around the city is exceptionally beautiful, thus the option to stretch the legs for a change is always there. Also, Benidorm is located right next to a hiking paradise – Marina Alta.
What applies in Alicante region applies to Benidorm as well. This region is very mountainous, thus there are plenty of hiking opportunities. Given the long stretches of the Mediterranean Sea, most of the hikes have awe-inspiring views, which undoubtedly going to leave a mark in your memory. Despite the depth of the wonderful natural wonders to visit in Alicante region, in this article I’m going to focus only on the hikes within close reach of Benidorm. Though, one could argue that this is in a matter of fact the most beautiful part not only of the region of Alicante, but the whole Valenciana Community.
Hiking in Serra Gelada Natural Park
The most obvious place to hike near Benidorm is the giant rock cliff right next to the city – Serra Gelada Natural Park (Parque Natural de la Serra Gelada). Due to its close proximity, the park might look like a boring place to go, but it couldn’t be further from the truth. Benidorm arose in Costa Blanca not without a reason. This area is stunningly beautiful. The mountains seem to be hand-in-hand with the Mediterranean Sea and Serra Gelada Natural Park is one of those places.
1. Alt del Governador – Climbing the Roof of Serra Gelada
If you want to rise above the skyscrapers of Benidorm, there is no better place to do so than climbing Alt del Governador. Rising 438 m / 1,437 ft above the sea level, which is right next to the peak, Alt del Governador is the highest point of Serra Gelada Natural Park. Though the peak is situated closer to L’Albir on the other side of the mountain range, the yellow route through Serra Gelada connects both towns. Therefore, technically, it is possible to climb Alt del Governador from either side, though walking straight from Benidorm will add about 2-3h of walking in one direction.
Starting Location: Serra Gelada tourist information center
Target Location: Alt del Governador
Distance: ~2 km / 4.34 mi x2
Ascend: 438 m / 1,437 ft
Type: Linear
Duration: 1h x2
Difficulty: Intermediate
The detour route to the peak has the same yellow marking as the rest of the hiking trail, thus be aware of signs showing directions. Alt del Governador rises clearly above all the terrain of Serra Gelada therefore it shouldn’t be possible to miss it. In case you want to be sure, Alt del Governador is the peak with all the antennas on it, The very same one, which gives the precise weather forecast for the beaches of Benidorm.
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Serra Gelada is a very popular hiking destination, but the yellow-marked hiking route is much less crowded than its red counterpart. Both hikes from L’Albir side starts from the tourist information center of Serra Gelada and has dedicated parking lot right next to the entrance. There is no possibility to refill your water tanks along the route except the tourist information center, thus being enough. Though parts of the hike are covered by a forest, during the hot parts of the season, the weather will be scorching even in the shadows.
Climbing Alt del Governador will reward with the amazing views at all directions. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
2. Camino del Faro – The Hike to Albir Lighthouse
The other official hiking route in Serra Gelada Natural Park connects the tourist information center to L’Albir lighthouse via the red-marked track. Way more people come to the park to do this hike than the yellow route and for a good reason. Camino del Faro follows the northeast edge of the Serra Gelada cliff ridge. Needless to say, the views of Penon de Ifach, Altea, L’Albir beach & Puig Campana are just jaw-dropping.
Having in mind the wonderful scenery of the hike, and the accessibility, Camino del Faro is somewhat a paradise for all kinds of nature lovers. Photo by A.L. [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Having said that, the vistas are just top-notch across Serra Gelada. The real reason for the popularity of the hike is the quality of the road itself. Though similar in length, the red route is not as steep as the yellow one. Also, Camino del Faro has a paved wheelchair friendly road, which attracts many cyclists, scooters, and even Segway enthusiasts. In short – anybody can do this hike and it even has WiFi. Given the awe-inspiring vistas along the route, Camino del Faro is a perfect hiking route for easily accessed spots for beautiful Instagram pictures to everybody. You can read more about hiking to Albir lighthouse in this guide.
3. Cova Tallada – Perfect Combination of Walking & Sea
Located on the edge of Costa Blanca, Cova Tallada is a cave system by the sea next to the giant cliffs of Mount Montgó Natural Park. The cave is a very popular destination not only among hikers but kayakers as well. People come here to spend their day on the rocky beaches near Cova Tallada to enjoy the views, snorkeling, and even cliff diving. Because of the crowds, the hike tends to get worse press than it should. Sure the route is dangerous but if you act carefully and follow all the common hiking rules – you’ll be fine. Just be sure to take a pair of good hiking shoes because the rocks are slippery due to the overuse of the route.
There are 6 official hiking routes in Mount Montgó Natural Park but I’ve picked Cova Tallada due to its uniqueness in the list. If you are considering looking for another hike in the park, have in mind that all of them are linear and require taking water supplies with you.
The hallway is connected to the main room which covers most of the total area. Acoustics are perfect here as the ceiling is astonishingly high. The dining room is combined with the room but due to ever-changing trends of design it is hard to notice where exactly the kitchen is. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cova Tallada hike is a very short walk from Denia by the beautiful cliffs of Mount Montgó, facing the ever-blue Mediterranean Sea. The route starts at the eastern edge of Denia facing Mount Montgó Natural Park. There is no dedicated parking lot for the amounts of visitors Cova Tallada receives, therefore you’ll have to drop your car somewhere in the outer streets of the city. The hike itself will take just above half an hour to complete. That includes some stairs and narrow ferrata roads by the cliffs, thus some mountain hiking experience is recommended.
You can read the details of hiking to Cova Tallada in this guide, but if the hiking route looks too difficult for you – don’t worry – you can always rent a kayak in Denia and row it to Cova Tallada.
4. Penon de Ifach – Climbing the Gibraltar of Costa Blanca
The real crown jewel of the Costa Blanca for challenging hiking and exceptional views is Penon de Ifach. Situated behind Calpe city, on a tip of the region, this rock was used for navigation from ancient times. The great sea culture – Phoenicians – used to call Penon de Ifach the North Rock, with the south one being famous Gibraltar itself.
Rising 332m / 1089 ft above the sea level, Penon de Ifach might not be as tall as Alt del Governador of Serra Gellada but the vistas are superb probably to everything I’ve seen so far in the Iberian Peninsula. Because of that, the popularity of the hike is much higher than it is supposed to be. Many people try to hit above their category by attempting this difficult climb but I can hardly blame them. If anywhere, the risks are worth taking. Though I highly suggest this hike only to the people, who have some rock climbing experience and good sturdy hiking boots.
The hike to the top of Penon de Ifach could be easily divided into two parts: The first one is a good quality road, which traverses up like a snake to a tunnel and could be done by anybody; The second part starts just after the tunnel through rocks to the very peak of the Calpe rock. It might sound easier than I insist the route is, but have in mind the high crowds, which make the rocks more slippery every day. Without a guide to climbing Penon de Ifach should be carefully considered, but it is probably the hike to do in the whole of Costa Blanca. Even though the Calpe rock provides superb views, the other hikes could be much easier but still very mesmerizing.
5. Puig Campana – In Search of Benidorm Island Origins
Puig Campana hike is the hiking route to beat not only around Benidorm but in the whole of Costa Blanca. At 1,406m / 4,613ft is the highest point in the region and one of the tallest mountains in the Valencian Community, therefore getting on the very top of it is the ultimate challenge. Climbing Puig Campana will test not only your skills but endurance and physical preparation as well. Despite all the odds, it will reward with incomparable awe, only possible such peaks as Puig Campana is – the highest mountain in proximity.
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Due to the Puig Campana’s dramatic appearance, the climb to the top of it seems to start from the arrival to Costa Blanca. With the right weather conditions, Puig Campana dominates the landscape in the region. The most extinguishing feature of the mountain is Roland’s cut, which as the legend of Puig Campana tells was cut out by the famous Knight himself to prolong the life of his loved one by a few moments. The remnants of that mountain slice are supposed to be the giant rock at the coast by Benidorm. Whatever there is any truth in this, the legend animates the romance in the already lovely region.
The hiking route to the very top of Costa Blanca begins at Font Moliin Finestrat town. There are two options to climb Puig Campana: The first one is shorted but very unpleasant and a hard one – the so-called “vertical kilometer”, which is actually 1,100m / 3,609ft of steep upright climbing; The second one is easier but longer and requires just as much endurance. The route via Col de Pouet might require a whole day to complete, but it is just as I said before – climbing Puig Campana is the hike to beat in Costa Blanca.
Hiking in the area around Benidorm of Costa Blanca at first might look like a cheap shot but in reality, it is a blessing in disguise. It took me four visits to the area to start truly appreciate the uniqueness of this landscape. The region is filled with artificial towns for tourists and ex-pats but beyond them lies the reason why they were built in this area in the first place. Costa Blanca combines the best of nature into one region and exploring it will be an unforgettable adventure.
On the top of everything, Costa Blanca is not all the same all the way. Benidorm is located at the central part of it and has a good mixture of everything. If you want more cliffs, you should head north to Marina Alta, and if you want a flat landscape, you should try hiking in Torrevieja wetlands. I hope that my personal experience of exploring Costa Blanca will help you to learn to appreciate the region, just as they taught me to do so.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Because of a similar name to the most popular trail in the world, to some “Camino del Faro” might sound like a long and hard walk. The reality couldn’t be more opposite. From the starting point to the very end, the whole 2.5km of road is wheelchair-friendly. The route is relatively flat; thus, elderly people can do it as well. Having in mind the wonderful scenery of the hike, and the accessibility, Camino del Faro is somewhat a paradise for all kinds of nature lovers.
Being one of them, and also into science, the relaxing walk made my mind to drift away thinking of the hiking as an activity. We all know that it is good for you, but why? Having in mind all the features of the route I mentioned before, was like a perfect storm to try deconstructing the whole hiking thing to the very bits. It is then, what I saw was really upsetting. Observing some people exploiting the good conditions of the road left me with somewhat mixed feelings. It looked to me like they miss the entire point of hiking.
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Due to its accessibility and gorgeousness, Camino del Faro might be the most popular hike if not in the whole of Costa Blanca, then definitely in the area near Benidorm. It is a perfect place to start uncovering the beauty of Costa Blanca, but there is much more to see. These are some of the best hikes around Benidorm in Costa Blanca.
Is it Hard to Hike Camino del Faro?
Well, like any hike, it depends on your preparation. To some people it might look hard, even a segway is required to do the “walking“. On the other hand, I bet the blind people could do the hike. Jokes aside, if you can walk 5km with as many breaks as you want – you can do the hike. I‘ve seen people from all age groups doing Camino del Faro: from those who can barely walk to those who just learned to do so. After all, Camino del Faro is as easy as a walk in a park and it is the beauty of it. We all can enjoy this walk despite our conditions.
Electric Bike Guided Tour
In case it is hard physically for you to reach Albir’s lighthouse on foot, it is possible to rent e-bike to do the hike. It is even possible to get a guided e-bike tour to reveal more than just the beautiful nature of Serra Gelada. Unfortunately, I could only find such a guided tour from Benidorm.
From Benidorm: Electric Bike Guided Tour (3h00 | € 35/person) The price covers e-bike with all the gear required, and a professional guide in either English or Spanish.
Recommended Gear
Whatever is comfortable. I’ve seen people doing the hike with proper mountain hiking gear but if you prefer flip-flops – don’t worry – this is THE HIKE. You’ll do just fine.
Serra Gelada is located between Albir and Benidorm – popular tourist getaway – which guarantees a good connection to the area. It could be reached by Autopista de Mediterraneo, a toll road Ap-7, or N-332 – slower and busier free alternative. Whichever road you pick, I’ll guarantee you – you’ll feel like you could drive straight to the Albir lighthouse.
Just next to the entrance to Serra Gelada park there is a huge parking lot built there for visitors of Parc Natural de la Serra Gelada. Despite its size, I expect it to be full in the evening, during the high season. Just have in mind that the same would apply even more for the rest of Albir town.
The key feature of the park is the large cliffs, rising above 400 meters above the sea level providing some of the most dramatic landscapes of Costa Blanca. Heights of the most prominent point, Alt del Governador (438m), are enough to rank them among the tallest cliffs in the whole Iberian Peninsula. Other interesting features of the park are: hanging fossilized dunes among the coast; the underwater area with all of its flora and fauna, including the presence of cetaceans. All of this is enough to make it one of the most unique protected spaces in the entire Valencian Community.
Camino del Faro (Albir – Albir Lighthouse Yellow Route)
Camino del Faro starts straight at the entrance to Parc Natural de la Serra Gelada, sharing the starting point with several other hikes, which you can find on the edge of a popular beach resort town, Albir. A tourist information center is located at the spot with drinkable water and public WC. It is the only one on the whole route, with no possibility to do your nasty work somewhere off-route. Camino del Faro contains twelve designated stops across the 2.5km route. That alone will be enough to help you take more from the hike than just beautiful pictures.
Camino del Faro leads to the left toward a picnic area with another access to water. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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To my surprise, the area of the park even includes free wi-fi. Ironically, the routes, which need a connection for navigation the least, are the only ones to have it. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsFlora in Camino del Faro, Serra Gelada, Spain. [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The first information stand will direct your attention to the surrounding flora in the shadowed parts of the park. If there is one thing people should learn here is that Serra Gelada is the home to some endemic (found only in this area) plant species to this area of the Mediterranean. Respecting their habitat could be a life and death question to the survival of whole species.
It won’t take long until the road will roll out of the vegetation layer to give the first glimpse of what is to come. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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It is the best distance/view ratio I‘ve ever experienced in any hike. Seriously, anywhere else I would walk 10km for this. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Puig Campana
In this area, a 10km hike will get you to the top of this mountain – Puig Campana. Elevated 1,406m above the sea level it is the second-highest mountain in the Province of Alicante. The key feature of this giant mountain is a small gash, just next to the peak of it. Curious how it got there? There are several legends which you can read here.
The next thing to catch your attention, undoubtedly, is going to be a tunnel, built here 60 years ago to make the access to 156-year old Albir lighthouse less dangerous. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsBe sure not to miss the road on the left to the tunnel, where hides the second viewpoint of the route. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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From now on you’ll be constantly followed by this scenery. See that rock? That is Penon de Ifach, a Gibraltar-type rock of Costa Blanca in Calpe. If you want to climb that one instead – I highly recommend reading the pieces of advice written in climbing Penon de Ifach guide. This hike falls into the category – high risk, high reward.
After the second viewpoint, head back to the tunnel. Just don’t think too much about its dynamite origins. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
These are fossils of extinct bivalve mollusks – Condrodontos. While the shape of it might not impress you, the fact that they are here proves that at least this part of Serra Gelada was at the seabed 100 mya.
After the tunnel, the path goes to the sunny side of the park (not today). For that reason, the vegetation is totally different, including more endemic plant species. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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The road goes deep into Serra Gelada, around La Mina Cove. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe next point of interest is Boca de Ballena, which could look like an ordinary cave, but its name actually translates to Mount of Whale. Hope this will spark your imagination. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Down the road, Cala de la Mina is accessible to anyone willing to do the climbing back. I imagine this beach would be appreciated more by snorkeling enthusiasts rather than usual swimmers.
After a few couples of hundred meters, deep in the cove, iron-rich red stones of La Mina (eng. Mine) appear right into your face. This ochre mine was run by a single family from the mid-19th to early 20th century. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The last viewpoint before the Grande Finale of the hike is named after mining engineer and geologist, Alfonso Yebenes Simon, who’s scientific work and publications were very important understanding the stone formations of Serra Gelada. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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Albir lighthouse was built in 1863. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe old alternative to Camino del Faro went along the coast to the very end, where the steps led right to the lighthouse. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsOnce you reach the lighthouse, it feels like the whole Mediterranean Sea opens in front of your eyes. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Spotting Cetaceans
The Albir lighthouse area is great for spotting cetaceans, especially, the bottlenose dolphins. The Serra Gelada Natural Park is home to one of the few schools of these wonderful creatures, found around the waters of the Iberian Peninsula.
These dramatic cliffs formed 70 mya when Africa shifted northwards and collided with the Iberian Peninsula. This resulted in many mountains and similar cliffs across Spain and Europe. The gap between these two peaks is about 170m, formed as a result of an erosion caused by the water.
Camino del Faro is a linear walk, but, at least, it is a pleasant walk in a park. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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The coves of Serra Gelada and Benidorm Island were regular hideouts for pirates between the 16th and 18th centuries. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsCamino del Faro is highly recommended for anybody happen to be in the area. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
My Impressions of Camino del Faro
As a European country, Spain is one of the larger ones, and it is no secret that it has a lot to show-of. For that reason, it is expected for some places to have better infrastructure, and some places to lag behind it. Camino del Faro is an example of excellence not only in Spain but in the rest of Europe. Not that every hiking route should be paved (and I’m strongly against it) but that it is possible to have some of these top-notch scenery areas made accessible to everyone.
The views might look like the main reward here, but the actual motivation for hiking is rather different. Getting direct sun and exercising increases the levels of serotonin in the brain¹. Nowadays, it is a well-known fact that serotonin reduces anxiety of the people vulnerable to depression and increase the mood for all of us². Thus, I cannot stress myself enough to express how it is sad for me to see “like vampires” missing the entire point of outdoor activities.
Just because this beautiful route is paved, that doesn’t mean that people should grab a segway, or electric scooter, and ride along. It is hard to explain my thoughts once I saw a young woman getting off her Segway and trying to climb a rock by a cliff. All this risk just to get a beautiful picture. She couldn’t do more things wrong here.
The reason why I’m stressing about this is, that she risked her safety for a short-term behavior reinforcing dopamine boost obtained from the likes on social network for a cool picture³, while totally ignoring the main benefits of hiking. As I mentioned before, exercising would have similar effects due to increased levels of serotonin, minus the addictive part, plus all the other benefits of active lifestyle, which we all can equally enjoy on Camino del Faro.
¹ Young S. N. (2007). How to increase serotonin in the human brain without drugs. Journal of psychiatry & neuroscience : JPN, 32(6), 394–399.
² Jenkins, T. A., Nguyen, J. C., Polglaze, K. E., & Bertrand, P. P. (2016). Influence of Tryptophan and Serotonin on Mood and Cognition with a Possible Role of the Gut-Brain Axis. Nutrients, 8(1), 56. doi:10.3390/nu8010056
³ Trevor Haynes (2018). Dopamine, Smartphones & You: A battle for your time. http://sitn.hms.harvard.edu/flash/2018/dopamine-smartphones-battle-time
Puig Campana have attracted people’s attention for centuries. Climbing Puig Campana could be easily ranked among the best hikes in Costa Blanca. One of the key features of Puig Campana every visitor of the region notices – a small gash, located just next to the peak of the mountain. Interestingly, a rock of a similar shape could be seen, from the beaches of Benidorm, in the Mediterranean Sea.
This coincidence has stimulated the imagination of local people for ages. Perhaps, for as long since the death of the protagonist in these stories – Roland, the Foremost of Charlemagne’s Paladins. Later on, many legends have been told regarding the origins of the gap in Puig Campana. The most popular one is the romantic one…
During those days, Frankish warriors were common visitors in these lands. The fierce battle between Moors and Franks went back and forth without any decisive victory. During one of those raids, a prodigy Frankish Commander Roland fell in love with a local maiden. Their love didn’t last long because one day Roland learned that the girl is cursed, and she would die when the last ray of sun will touch her skin. A desperate Roland climbed Puig Campana to cut out a piece out of it to prolong the life of her love. When the Sun set behind the Puig Campana, the girl died. Mad with grief, Roland grabbed the piece of the mountain and threw it to the Mediterranean Sea, creating the Island of Benidorm.
Ad Meskens [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)]
The Other Version
…Skipping all the boring parts… and the battle has finally reached its grande finale. The fierce fighting took to the top Puig Campana. People from afar could hear the swinging swords of two nearly evenly matched warriors. Roland was about to get the upper hand against the Moorish leader, he lifted his sword, Durendal, to finish his enemy but the opponent proved to be a worthy one and evaded the final blow. Roland hit the ground instead and cut a piece out of the mountain which fell into the sea…
It is not like we need proof to deny this but the origins of Benidorm’s island differ from Puig Campana by somewhere within 64 million years.
garrulus at https://www.flickr.com. [CC BY 2.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)]
Roland’s Breach (La Brèche de Roland)
Roland’s Cut is not the only feature of the kind in Spain left by the Frankish Commander. Roland must have been a truly talented mountain slasher because he cut Pyrenees as well. This formation is better known as Roland’s Breach, and the story behind it is no less tragic than the one before.
The legend tells that Moors were fiercely chasing Roland to the edge of their territory. Unfortunately, his horse has died when he attempted to escape his pursuers by jumping over a chasm. Roland didn’t give up and continued on foot. Just before his last moment, Roland smote the Pyrenees with his sword to make a breach so he could see his beloved Francia for one last time.
Like in many legends, some parts of them are true. Roland was an actual Commander who died in the area during the Battle of Roncevaux Pass against Basques. That doesn’t mean that he could cut the mountains, but after his death Roland was turned into something as the role-model of all knights. This probably explains why so many legends surround his name ergo making him a legend on its own right.
All of these battles, wrapped with legends, ended up in 795 when Frankish Empire established a military buffer zone – Marca Hispanica. Roughly, the territory included Aragon, Catalonia, and Basque Country. You can read more about Marca Hispanica and following events here.
Everything is written in its name – Cova Tallada – translated from Valenciana language that would be the Carved Cave. This makes the cave not just another cave – sculpted out of a rock by water waves as it was some kind of bad-tasted contemporary art sculpture – the cave is man-made. This naturally raises a question why would somebody carve a cave not too far but not too close to the settlement nearby – Denia – to which Cova Tallada’s destiny was bounded from the very beginning and still holds to this day.
Despite Cova Tallada origins, its beauty is sought by lots of tourists and adventurers. So many that during the high season access to the cave had to be limited due to safety reasons. You see, from time to time some people tend to fall into Cova Tallada as they get ‘creative’ trying to take a selfie on the hole above the cave.
Difficulty: Easy/Moderate Depending on season and experience
Permit: Required between June 15 – September 30
Map of Costa Blanca Hikes
Despite all odds, I would easily rank hike to Cova Tallada among the best hikes in Costa Blanca. The route simply has so much to offer in such a short distance. If you can avoid the crowds, hiking to Cova Tallada is an absolutely must!
The Official Rules of Cova Tallada Hike
Stay in the cave no longer than 2 hours
Bring water in abundance
Proper footwear
Do not bring bulky and cumbersome objects
Do not run or shout
It is forbidden to:
Spending the night at the cave
Fishing and extracting any kind of species from the sea
The main thing everybody needs to understand before going to Cova Tallada is that all the warnings of danger are here due to the popularity of the hike. The route is nowhere close to being somehow exceptionally unsafe. All the fuss is just because the cave is not only popular among hikers but tourists as well thus the whole area gets really crowded. It is not a secret that the number of incidents increases with the number of visitors. The authorities are simply left with no other options once the tragic news get to the papers. Everything combined, my general advice – like during any other hike including steep slopes – the correct pace is always the safe pace. If you stick to this rule you will be all right. Let the idiots alone increase the incident roll.
The route itself is hard to describe, it doesn’t fit into any basic category. Physically – the walk is not difficult because it is very short but technically – the story is a bit different. With good shoes and some experience, many would mark the hike as easy though that totally doesn‘t do the justice to actually easy hikes. The best way to prepare for the hike would be to follow me through this article and decide it yourself because it really depends on your own skills and equipment.
My Recommended Gear
Water shoes
Good hiking shoes for steep Rock climbing
Extra: If you like snorkeling, be sure to take your gear along
Denia – Cova Tallada Yellow Route
The first challenge of the hike is to find the beginning of the route. It should not be a problem if you are reading this article because I have already linked the coordinations on Google Maps.
From the start of the yellow route to Cova Tallada to Mirador las Rotas the road is relatively civilized and the only way to get hurt is to get ‘creative’. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsSome people tend to miss it but just before Mirador Las Rotas there are small steps down to continue the road toward Cova Tallada. When in doubt – always look for yellow route markings. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe view from Mirador Las Rotas, Denia. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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This is where the walk might get a bit tricky from time to time but if sightseeing and walking are not done at the same time everybody should be just fine. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Formation of Montgo Massif – Precursor to Cova Tallada
Cova Tallada is located at the edge of Montgo Massif, which arose from the depths some 70 million years ago when continent plates of Europe and Africa were making love pretty hard. No surprise, passing through this place is not easy; but without it there would be no places like this beautiful cave.
From here on Cova Tallada is just behind two passages across hill cliffs, which I suggest walking extra-carefully. The basic rule is to let everybody from in front to pass the difficult part first because you never know, which passer-by might be a hot-headed idiot, who will use any given possibility to push you off the cliff.
Pro tip: In case somebody enters a difficult range while you are on it, just stop on the safe side and let them pass on the outside. They chose to put you in a dangerous situation so let them do the walking.
The valley between the passages is less stressful but since the path is very popular – most of the rocks are ground almost as if it was done by a jeweler – thus might get a bit slippery with the wrong footwear. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe second passage doesn‘t include steps but it is quite narrow, just stick to the rules I posted above and you’ll be fine. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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Just before the hike turns into a rock climbing session, the road goes around a small gulf with Cova Tallada almost visible behind the next corner. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Getting Into Cova Tallada
Once you get to this sign ‘the walk in a park’ is over. To access the cave you have two options with neither of them being very simple. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe official route goes down this road where you’ll have to take out your hands out of your pockets or if you are cool – take the risk of falling somewhere, hurting something. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
At this point, some of you might be already thinking – ‘I’m taking the second route’ but don’t be so quick to judge. The second option does not include the rock climbing session but instead requires hiking a bit further, descending from a way gentler cliff on unofficial route, fording to an islet nearby, crossing the islet (which is a total pain without water shoes) and swimming to the cave.
Needless to say which route I took. After walking through the razor-sharp surface of the islet, cursing my flip-flops without stopping, I found myself only dozen meters away from Cova Tallada with the only obstacle being the sea.
Cautiously I took my steps forward, getting deeper and deeper, toward the uncharted underworld. The same moment my eyes got below the surface of salty seawater, that world revealed itself to me. Everything changed instantly – like midday to midnight. For a moment, I forgot everything that I left above and swam deeper into this alien planet. Escorted by flocks of fish, I was navigating between giant rocks. They were like huge houses to other lifeforms, who were all carefully observing this unseen explorer tirelessly trying to reach his goal. Avoiding jellyfishes, somehow I reached the shallow waters, where crabs took the race for their lives just before I ascended above them to enter Cova Tallada.
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Even though there was no thought process behind the decision, I don’t regret taking the second option. I had no idea about the first one until I swam to the cave just to find the entrance from the surface. I was quite surprised how all of these people got to the cave with all this gear and food, and pets, while I was there barefoot only with a phone and a snorkel in my hands. Don’t take this as an encouragement to skip the water shoes part, this venture cost me five cuts on my toes and it could have been way worse if not for my thick skin.
LCova Tallada stretches from 15 meters in height to 75 meters in length but I imagine these numbers might not give the correct impression of the cave. An easier way to characterize the Carved Cave would be to compare it to a medium-sized flat, somewhere in the countryside near a sea.
There is an entrance at the end of a hallway which leads to the stairs you need to climb before getting out of here. The flat is on the base floor after all. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe hallway is connected to the main room which covers most of the total area. Acoustics are perfect here as the ceiling is astonishingly high. The dining room is combined with the room but due to ever-changing trends of design it is hard to notice where exactly the kitchen is. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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Few windows on the roof will keep the main room enlightened for most of the day. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThere is a terrace in the main room with a top-notch view. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe main problem with the flat is that the bathroom is located outside. Yes it includes a huge bath but when the weather is bad it might get annoying. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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…and last but not least is the beautiful sleeping room which is darker than other spaces of the flat – perfect for sleeping and other stuff. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe only illumination of the room is coming through several arches that are leading straight to the backyard where you’ll find plenty of space for your daily exercise. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsOverall the flat could maintain over a couple of hundred people though I wouldn’t signup for such a commune thus recommend visiting it off-season. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cova Tallada Secrets
The beautiful arches of the interior withstand all the bad weather for a reason. Apparently, the rocks are more robust at this location and the whole cave was carved out by the people from Denia. They used these rocks to build important buildings in the city, including the Castle of Denia. So if you still think this hike is dangerous or hard – imagine the people carrying these rocks the same distance – which is untrue, since it is way easier to do it by the sea. I’ll leave you with that.
From everything I’ve ever seen, there is only one place like legendary Gibraltar. Take away the strategic importance with its historical significance from Gibraltar, and add the remote beauty of the wild nature, you get Penon de Ifach. Located on the tip of Calpe City, it is separating the urban area’s beaches into two. Having in mind the Les Salines, a salt lagoon located in the middle of the city, the beauty of views from the top of Penon de Ifach is somewhat iconic on Instagram. This is certainly among the best things to do in Calpe and one of the best hikes near Benidorm, Costa Blanca overall.
Rising 332m above the sea level, which is right next to it, Penon de Ifach is a hard-to-miss wonder of nature of Costa Blanca. With a size of approx. 45 hectares or 62 soccer fields, the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach is the smallest regional park in Spain and one of the smallest in the whole of Europe. Nevertheless, it attracts more than 100,000 visitors each year. Due to its uniqueness, the rock creates many microhabitats perfect for rare specialized plants. If it is safe, be sure to smell various flowers growing around the path.
Penon de Ifach is also a nesting site for many birds and for that reason it has some path restrictions from 1st April to 30th June. Even though you can meet some of the semi-domesticated cats in the park, during the mating season, it is the sea birds which will drive you crazy with their catlike sounds for seducing a partner. No matter how many tourists come here, there are more seagulls than anybody else. It is their rock, respect that. Birds are not the only ones to appreciate Penon de Ifach, humans used the rock to navigate since prehistoric times. Today, Penon de Ifach marks the entrance to Marina Alta – the hikers’s paradise.
It is not surprising that I’m not the first to notice the similarity between Penon de Ifach and Gibraltar. Around 4.000 years ago, Phoenicians, the best sailors in the World at that time, called Gibraltar and Penon de Ifach – the Southern Rock and the Northern Rock, respectively. It served as a landmark for mariners ever since.
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From 4th to 3rd century BC, the rock was a place for Iberian settlement as it proved to be an outstanding strategic place to observe the shores of the surrounding areas and spot approaching pirates. But as technology advanced, the attacks from the sea became unbearable. Villagers had to move deeper into the land, somewhere where the modern Calp is.
For more than a century, the area of Penon de Ifach has been privately owned and only in 1987 it was declared a public regional park after the Generalitat Valenciana Authority bought it.
Calp is connected to any major city around. ALSA buses come and go from Valencia, Denia, Altea, Benidorm, and Alicante every day. You can find more information here: https://www.busbud.com/en/bus-calpe/c/snb5c5
By car – N-332 or AP-7 roads
Like most other coastal cities in the region, the easiest way to reach Calp by N-332 road. The main problem with this road is traffic. The road goes through every town where it runs into the traffic lights, roundabouts and all the other stuff you can imagine to find in urban areas.
Calp can be also reached by the Autopista del Mediterráneo, also known as AP-7, a tolled motorway running along the Mediterranean coast of Spain. If you approaching Calp from the South, exit AP-7 road to N-332 near Altea, or to Bonaire if you are coming from the North.
Parking at the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach
There are some parking spaces just next to the information center of the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach, but it seems to be closed. Instead use the parking down below, at the entrance to the park, or simply put the car anywhere in Calp and walk your way the information center of the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach, where the hike starts.
The hike could be divided into two parts: the First one being really easy and recommended for everyone passing by; And the second should be attempted only by those who are fit, know what they are doing and have a good pair of hiking boots.
The road quality, from the information center of the park to the rock, won’t change a bit. It is easy to walk and has plenty of places to take your breath and enjoy the amazing views. There are no steps just an uphill stone-grounded path.
Both parts of the hike are separated by a tunnel, which gives you a good taste of what is ahead in a safe manner. You’ll get to taste how good are your shoes for slippery stones and how comfortable you are holding onto the chains. Please note that there is no light in the tunnel. If you are afraid of the dark, I am sorry, but if you are afraid of the heights, enjoy while you can. Once you reach the light at the end of the tunnel, the steep cliffs down to the ocean won’t leave your sight for a second. From here on, the road up to Penon de Ifach will turn into a tough challenge for any regular person without any major experience in rock hiking.
The second half of the hike couldn’t be more different from the first one. Instead of a man-made path, the hike will continue on slippery rocks with some chains to hold on. The road is marked with red paint, but sometimes you should consider a safer option next to the main path. There are way fewer people after the tunnel on the road, but with time, the long-lasting rocks have seen a lot of them. The hikers had grinded the surface of the stone like it has spent most of its life in the ocean. The main tips for hiking to the top of Penon de Ifach goes as it follows:
High hiking shoes with a deep sole are really useful here;
Always look where to put your feet;
Enjoy the views only when standing still;
Leave enough time to climb down before it gets dark or take a headlight.
Where the road is narrow, let incoming people pass it first;
If you will continue walking with a hope that the road will get any easier – DON’T. The hike to the top of Penon de Ifach will remain challenging right up to the peak. And it won’t be a pleasant walk. You have to remain conscious of the high probability that any miss-step might result in bye-bye-your-life all the time.
I might be exaggerating a lot, but I’ve seen plenty of people on this hike who shouldn’t be there, and they didn’t look very happy. If you are one, I want to scare you away and save you some nerves. These days it is a common thing that people die trying to take a cool selfie or simply doing a hard hike trying to get to a beautiful vista. Some places are just simply not for everyone, but the motivation behind the possibility of rewarded attention on social media pushes some people beyond their capabilities. Personally, I enjoyed the hike a lot, I love climbing and hiking on rocks and it is really sad that after some misfortune incidents wonderful hikes like this gets closed.
Of course, the real tragedy is the loss of life which could be avoided if the people get informed correctly in front. Instead, there is not much official information to be found in English, which is substituted by some random comments on TripAdvisor. Something like “The hike was challenging but totally worth it”, could mean many things, one of them is that somebody after reading a comment like this won’t get home. Better safe than sorry, right? That is the reason for my description being so harsh. In short – be smart, take that Instagram selfie before the tunnel, and get back home in one piece.
This hike leads to the top of the rock 3xx meters above the sea level, which is next to it. Obviously, there is not much of a space for cafes or bathrooms. The last bathroom is at the start of a hike, in the information center of the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach.
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There is a tap for water at the start of the hike, but I don’t recommend drinking from it. It is mainly to clean your hands after the walk, as you’ll definitely get your hands dirty during this one. If you are reading a guide for the hike, you’ll probably going to take at least 3 hours to complete it. Be sure to take your own water and snacks as the hike up will be exhausting and energy consuming.
It is definitely worth to visit Penon de Ifach, but climbing it to the top is a totally different topic. The views are amazing and worth seeing, but you can see almost the same from the area just before the tunnel without any unnecessary misery. If you are going for beautiful views and shots, getting to the tunnel is enough for you. If you are interested in a difficult and dangerous hike with rewarding views at the end of it, take a shot. With some luck on a beautiful day, you might get even to see the Balearic Islands from the top of Penon de Ifach.
In Costa Blanca, one thing is for sure, you can hardly find any refuge from the noise and the crowds. Even in the off-season, late in the day, the hike was really crowded. Penon de Ifach literally stands out as an obvious thing to do if you are in a region. Many inexperienced hikers might misunderstand the challenge. Never-ever I heard so few “Thank you” when you let somebody coming from the opposing direction to cross a difficult part. Of course, I’m not complaining about the people being not polite, the problem here is a lack of understanding of the cooperation on a dangerous road.
Nevertheless, I really enjoyed the hike, the views are amazing, and the road is very interesting. Attached chains will help you to keep safe, but the rocks are really easy to hold on as well. Rock climbing enthusiasts will be as pleased just as I was. Overall, if you’ll stay careful with the tourists wandering around, tolerate the birds who occupy the rock, you will appreciate what this unsung hike has to offer.
