Category: Castellon

About Ares del Maestrat

Situated in one of the least densely populated regions of the Valencian Community – Alto Maestrazgo, Ares del Maestrat, like the whole area is defined by nature, not by men. One can only wonder what brought the first settlers to this remote and from the first sight unhospitable area. It could be the beauty of nature itself or safety, but note that it is not unusual for Ares del Maestrat to be covered by snow during the colder periods of the year. The usage of firewood was a very common practice until recently. The locals’ livelihood was under nature’s mercy for at least a thousand years.

The raison d’etre of Ares del Maestrat might lie in the name of the settlement with less than 200 inhabitants. As a matter of fact, there are plenty of towns named Ares from the Comtat region (north of Alicante) to the Pyrenees Mountains. Since they seem to be founded on the mountains, scholars link them to the Latin word “Aras” (eng. Altar), not Ares – “the animal”. To understand the reason behind it we must look a bit deeper into the past, to be precise to the times of Romans. It is now known that they made sacrifices to the Gods, most notably Mercury, once Romans passed a mountain pass, like the one at Ares del Maestrat.

Today, relatively few tourists trespass this humble yet grandiose town. Ares del Maestrat is clearly overshadowed by some of the bigger names in the region, making it an even more charming destination. Sightseeing it is like visiting Morella without tourists but maybe Morella is Ares del Maestrat with tourists – you name it.

Ares del Maestrat Details

• Location: Alto Maestrazgo
• Province: Castellón
• Coordinates: 40°42′00″N 0°5′00″E
• Distance from Valencia: 132 km / 82 mi
• Distance from Barcelona: 245 km / 152 mi
• Distance from Madrid: 410 km / 255 mi
• First mentioned: 1233, source: Enciclopèdia Catalana
• Population: Approximately 197 (as of 2021)
• Area: 72.8 km² / 28.1 mi²
• Elevation: 1,194 m / 3,917 ft
• Weather: Ares del Maestrat forecast
• Best time to visit: May through October, for warm weather hiking and exploring

Map of Ares del Maestrat

History of Ares del Maestrat

Situated on 1 231 m / 4 039 ft, the castle of Ares del Maestrat only by pure coincidence was conquered by the Christians from Moors in either 1231 or 1232. It must be either the first date or the mountain was a meter taller one thousand years ago. One way or another, Ares del Maestrat is located in a very strategically important place. As a matter of fact, it was the first Castle captured by King Jaime I during the Christian Reconquista of the Iberian Peninsula in the area now considered the Valencian Community.

Later on, it was passed to the almost mythical Order of Templar Knights, and their ‘ban’ to the Order of Montesa. Originally, it is thought that the Moors were the first ones to build a castle here. Still, it wouldn’t surprise me if Gaulic tribes first inhabited the castle-towns like Ares del Maestrat, Culla, and Morella much earlier because these towns look exactly like the Gaulic strongholds, described in Julius Ceasar’s diaries during his brutal conquest of Gaul.

Nevertheless, even with the very widespread ignorance of the Iberian Peninsula’s past before the Spanish Reconquista among the local historians, more serious scholars admit that these areas, including Ares del Maestrat, have been inhabited for a long time. This is proven not only by archeologists but by the cave paintings, most notably in Cova Remígia with over 700 figures created approx 7 000 years ago. These paintings visualize activities like hunting and even honey collecting, which probably speaks of the local crafts during that period.

Streetview of Ares del Maestrat

Personal Experience

Given the relatively high amount of Templar or other castles in the area, Ares del Maestrat is almost entirely forgotten. In my opinion, it doesn’t do justice. No other town in the province is elevated at these heights, even Morella. This alone gives Ares del Maestrat an unexpectedly eerie and mesmerizing atmosphere, but given its relatively close location to the coast, the contrast is taunting. Just in one hour, you could get from the buzzing streets of endless tourists to a tiny medieval village, rising more than a kilometer above sea level with nothing but green hills and mountains in the surrounding stunning landscape. The whole town seems to host fewer people than you can find in 20 sq m in some of the more busy towns situated on the coast. It is a truly magical escape from the worst to the best in terms of Spanish authenticity you could get.

A short ride to Ares del Maestrat makes a perfect one-day trip from coastal towns like Bennicasim, Ortopesa, Torrenostra, Alcossebre, or even Peniscola (which is an architectural wonder of its own). You can even combine it with another medieval town-fortress Culla, or if you are quick – Vilafamés, which is listed as one of the top 100 most beautiful villages in Spain. Ares del Maestrat falls short of this list but I’m sure it is just because the Province of Castellon has so much to offer, and you can’t add them all. From my personal experience traveling Spain, Ares del Maestrat is no less attractive than any other small picturesque town found across the country.

About Morella

Nestled in the province of Castellon in the region of Valencia lies one of the truly charming villages of Spain – Morella. Known as one of the top 100 most beautiful villages in the country and one of the most beautiful towns in Castellon and the whole of Valencia, Morella is a hidden gem to outsiders’ eyes waiting to be discovered.

Its location, perched high on a rocky hill, has given Morella strategic importance throughout its long existence. This is evident once you see the impressive castle of the town, a dominant feature of Morella, which has played a crucial role in protecting the town’s inhabitants and its cultural heritage. Another striking feature of Morella is its location on a high plateau. One might not notice at first but except for agriculture and roads, there are no signs of any human activities or settlements around the town. This becomes very obvious from Morella’s walls and towers during the night. It is pitch black.

The town is not just a beautiful and historic town, however. It is also a place of warmth and hospitality, where visitors are welcomed with open arms. Morella’s streets are lined with whitewashed buildings adorned with balconies, and its plazas are lively gathering places for locals and visitors alike. There is always something happening in the town, from traditional fiestas and cultural events to weekly markets and fairs. With this article I hope to unveil this unknown tourist destination to foreign visitors to Spain, highlighting Morella’s rich history, culture, local foods, and most interesting landmarks.

Morella Details

• Location: Els Ports
• Province: Castellon
• Coordinates: 40.6181° N, 0.0941° W
• Distance from Castellon: 70 km / 43 m)
• Distance from Valencia: 125 km / 78 mi
• Distance from Zaragoza: 193 km / 120 mi
• First mentioned: 11th century (Kitāb al-‘Udri / en. Book of the Glory of the Muslims in Spain)
• Population: 2,700 (2021)
• Area: 413.7 km² / 159.7 mi²
• Elevation: 984 m / 3,228 ft
• Forecast: Morella forecast
• Best time to visit: Spring or fall

Map of Morella

History of Morella

Morella’s history is as rich and varied as the layers of stone in its castle walls. Unfortunately, this came not from goodwill but from necessity. The town’s origins can be traced as far back as the Bronze Age when the Iberian peoples inhabited the area. Later, the Greeks and then the Romans established a settlement here, which was known as Morviedro. The Visigoths conquered the town in the 5th century, followed by the Moors in the 8th century. Its complicated history is hard to uncover but one thing is for sure – everyone saw it as one of the crown jewels in their list of trophies.

“Morella is not a place for any man in the world, but for a king, because it was worth as much as a county with its possessions.” – King Jaime I

During the Middle Ages, Morella became an important frontier town, situated between the Christian and Muslim kingdoms. The town was heavily fortified, and its castle played a crucial role in protecting the town’s inhabitants from attacks. In the 13th century, the troops under King James I of Aragon conquered Morella and incorporated it into his kingdom. During the following centuries, it prospered as a center of agriculture and trade. It was also an important political center, falling in influence only after Valencia and Xativa. Morella’s Gothic church of Santa Maria was built during this time, as were many of the town’s other important buildings.

You don’t have to be a genius to notice that Morella’s rich history is reflected in its many historical landmarks and cultural events. Visitors can explore the town’s castle, churches, and other important buildings, and learn about the town’s fascinating past. Morella’s historical legacy is a testament to the town’s enduring spirit and its determination to preserve its cultural heritage for future generations.

Sexenio de Morella Festival

Morella is also known for hosting one of the most important festivals in the Valencian Community and one of the oldest festivals in Spain – Sexenio. It is expected to attract between 100,000-200,000 visitors within a span of 10 days in 2024. It so happens, that the festival happens only every 6 years and if you miss one, you might not get a chance for a second time. Due to its importance, the whole town got a cyclical rhythm of 6 years awaiting and preparing for the celebration of Sexenio. As a matter of fact, translated from Spanish “Sexenio” means “six-year term”, so its frequency shouldn’t surprise Spanish speakers. Originally it was celebrated on the third Sunday of August but the festival has expanded over the years. The next Sexenio de Morella is going to happen in 2024, August 17-26.

It all began on February 14, 1673, when by the popular request of the people, the council of Morella declared that every six years the town will hold a celebration in honor of the Virgin of Vallivana out of gratitude for what she’ve done for Morella and its inhabitants. 1672 was a terrible year for the town. A terrible plague was ravaging Morella. Many died, and many more would have if it was not for the Virgin. When she arrived to the town, the Virgin of Vallivana was carefully assisted throughout the sick streets of Morella, and wherever she went, people got cured. For modern people, this must sound like a miracle but I believe that back then Morellans had no doubt of the powers of the Virgin. Therefore, Sexenio every six years is a thanksgiving to the savior of the town and its people.

During the festival, the town is transformed with colorful decorations over every balcony and window within its limits. It is accompanied by constant traditional dancing and lively music. One of the main highlights of the festival is the procession of the “giants and big-heads”, which consists of giant puppets and people wearing oversized masks and costumes. In addition to the festive celebrations, the Sexenio de Morella also includes traditional religious ceremonies and cultural events. That is the raison d’etre of the festival after all. Sexenio is an important part of the town’s cultural heritage and is a time for the people of Morella to come together and celebrate their history and traditions. Visiting Morella during the Sexenio festival might be a good time to learn more about the unique character of this lovely yet mysterious town.

Places to Visit in Morella

Besides its medieval and eerie streets of the Old Town, Morella has some historical landmarks to visit that stand out from the rest and at the same time fill in the whole picture just perfectly. Its history and geographical location shape its image. Being a strategically important fortress and town, Morella’s fortifications clearly stand out, but at the same time its location in, sometimes, a very harsh northeastern part of the Iberian mountain system, put the inhabitants of the town at the mercy of some higher powers. Churches are plentiful.

Morella Castle

The most iconic historical landmark and attraction in Morella is, of course, the castle that sits atop a hill overlooking the town and offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside of Els Ports. The history of this castle is basically the history of Morella itself.

The current castle dates back to the 13th century and has served as a military stronghold, a royal residence, and a prison. Today, visitors to Morella can explore the castle’s walls, towers, and courtyards, and take in the stunning views of the surrounding countryside. The castle’s museum houses an impressive collection of archaeological finds, medieval weaponry, and historical artifacts that provide a fascinating glimpse into Morella’s past.

Basilica de Santa Maria la Mayor

This Gothic-style church is located in the heart of Morella’s historic center and dates back to the 14th century. The church features impressive stained-glass windows, intricate stonework, and a large bell tower that can be climbed for views of the town. In 1958 it was granted a status of a minor basilica. Some say it is the most beautiful gothic church in the region of Valencia.

Portal de Sant Miquel

Besides Morella castle and its walls, the Portal de Sant Miquel is the most distinctive historical landmark of the town. Constructed in the 14th century with an imposing stone arch and intricate carvings, it leads straight into the old town of Morella. The portal was originally part of the town’s defensive walls and served as an important entrance for travelers and traders. Most of the visitors will enter Morella through this portal straight into the narrow streets of the old town, where they can explore the many shops, restaurants, and historic buildings that make Morella such a popular destination.

Convent of Sant Francesc

This 14th-century Gothic-style old convent of Franciscan monks today is home to a museum that showcases the history and culture of Morella and its surrounding region. The museum includes exhibits on local crafts, traditional dress, and religious art. At the moment, it is closed down for renovation works but still, I found it one of the more interesting landmarks in the town.

Aqueduct of Santa Lucia

At first sight, the structure might remind of a Roman-style aqueduct but actually, it dates back to the times millennia later, in the 14th century. In some sense, it somewhat makes it a more interesting historical landmark as Romans probably were better builders than Christians from this era. The Aqueduct of Santa Lucia consists of a series of arches and pillars, and is definitely an impressive feat of engineering that has stood the test of time. Like all aqueducts, it was built to supply water to the town from nearby springs. Visitors can hike along a path that follows the aqueduct to trace its origins, the route offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside and a unique perspective on this historic structure.

Local Products & Gastronomy

Besides its stunning appearance, Morella is known for its delicious local products and gastronomy, which reflect the region’s agricultural and culinary traditions. Terroir plays very well into the delicious products and traditional dishes of the town. You can predict what you’ll find on the menu of any given restaurant or tapas bar in Morella from the landscape’s panorama from the tall town’s walls. Morella is famous for its almonds, milk products, meats, dry meats, sausages, truffles, honey, and other foods, generally, listed as ‘land kitchen’. which can be found in local markets and shops. Visitors of Morella can sample these staple foods or the town’s traditional dishes almost anywhere in town, among the most popular are flaons. One can’t leave Morella without trying these gems. They could be acquired almost anywhere in town, most notably in one of the numerous bakeries. Real yummy.

Personal Experience

Morella is a charming and authentic destination that offers visitors a taste of traditional Spain. With its rich history and culture, delicious local products and gastronomy, and stunning natural scenery, Morella is a hidden gem worth exploring. As a golden rule, the status of one of the most beautiful towns in Spain guarantees an exceptional experience and breathtaking dramatic sceneries. Nevertheless, despite being located less than an hour from the ever-busy Mediterranean coast of the region of Valencia, Morella gained the reputation it deserves only among the local tourists from Aragon, Valencia, and beyond.

I especially enjoyed the calm setting of the inland Castellon in early spring, when Almonds were blooming. Morella is surrounded by hundreds of these iconic and typical Spain trees.

Whether you are a history buff, a foodie, or an outdoor enthusiast, Morella has something to offer for everyone. So pack your bags and head to Morella for an unforgettable Spanish adventure.