Marina Alta is one of the most beautiful Comarcas on the Mediterranean coast of the Valencian Community & Spain. Denia, Javea & Calpe are among the top tourist destinations.
Most of the hiking routes listed in this article are just sections of the PR-CV 355 hiking trail between Port Javea and El Montgo Peak. You might as well just do it, but for those less fitted, or not being able to spare a day for such a trail, there are more accessible options. Actually, everything except getting the names right is easy Cap de Sant Antoni.
This natural marvel is named after the same saint as a famous city in Texas San Antonio, which is the Spanish name. The most common name – Cap Sant Antoni – is in the local Valenciano language, but it is also known in English as Saint Anthony’s Cape or Cape San Antonio, and in Spanish: Cabo San Antonio). In case you get confused it is all the same thing. The good part, as I said, everything else is simple, especially, getting good vistas with little to no effort. Though some cliffs of the Cape rise about 150 m / 500 ft above the sea level, the Cape is very flat. Walking here is a breeze, especially if you start hiking from one of the parking spaces on top of Cap de Sant Antoni.
Cap de Sant Antoni Details
Location: Spain
Region: Valencia
Main hub: Javea & Denia
Distance from Alicante: 90km / 55.92mi
Distance from Valencia: 105km / 65.24mi
Distance from Benidorm: 55km / 34.18mi
Area: 1.1 km² / 0.42 mi²
Lat/Lon: 38°47’30″N 0°11’41”E
Highest point: Cap de Sant Antoni (170 m / 557 ft)
Situated on the plateau of Cap de San Antoni, this circular hike suits almost everyone. Given the easy access via Denia-Javea CV-736, it offers almost free exceptional vistas that would otherwise require a steep climb. Molins Circular Hike offers amazing views towards both sides of the cape, with its crown jewel being the mesmerizing view towards Javea from the windmill area.
Pro tip: Make a small detour on Denia’s side to a beautiful viewpoint: Mirador del Cuni.
Hike Details
Distance: 5.5km / 3.4mi
Duration: 1h30-2h00
Difficulty: Easy
Color: Yellow
Type: Circular
Route: Aparcamiento Merendero – Mirador del Cuni – Els Molins – Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles
Not really a hiking trail but rather just a section of it, but arguably the best part of it. Especially if you add a little twist to it and walk off the main road to an unnamed viewpoint, which offers the best views of the tip of Cap de Sant Antoni itself I’ve managed to find so far. The quality of the road is not as good as Molins Circular Hike which could be done from the same parking, but it is flat, thus suitable for most of people. If you don’t have much time to explore, this might be the route to make a good impression of what Cap de Sant Antoni has to offer in general.
The signature hike of Javea from the port part of the town climbs Cap de Sant Antoni which is, after all, much closer to Javea than it is to Denia. Many locals and visitors of the town climb the cape each day, and so do the large houses of the super-rich living, or, at least, owning properties in otherwise protected areas. Javea missed the opportunity to preserve its side of the cape but luckily the hike goes through the remote untouched section of the last terrain of the Baetic mountains systems before it sinks into the deep sea and remerges again only in the Balearic Islands. Port Javea – Cap de Sant Antoni is a great nature getaway from an otherwise busy area.
Cova Tallada is a cave system by the Mediterranean Sea below high cliffs of Cap Sant Antoni. Might be the crown jewel of the whole area, I even did this hike on my Spain road trip when I had no idea what Denia or Marina Alta is. This rather short hikes is by no means for everyone – being able to tolerate heights and good shoes is the minimum requirement. Nevertheless, the hike to Cova Tallada is a very popular among tourists and locals alike. Due to some people not being able to keep even the simplest safety rules, the access to the hike is limited during peak seasons.
Pro tip: Cova Tallada is a great snorkeling spot
Hike Details
Distance: 1km / 0.62mi
Duration: 30-40min
Difficulty: Easy/Moderate Depending on season and experience
A small climb from the same location in Les Rotes as the Cova Tallada route starts. This is the shortest hike on the list, though be cautious – even given the wee distance and a relatively good road – it is a steep climb to Torre del Gerro. I wouldn’t suggest attempting the hike on a hot day unless you know what you’re doing. From Torre del Gerro beautiful vistas open towards Denia and its coast. Other hiking trails connect Torre del Gerro with Cova Tallada and Cap Sant Antoni.
Hike Details
Distance: 1km / 0.62mi
Ascend: ± 120m / 400 ft
Duration: 20-30min x2
Difficulty: Easy/Moderate Depending on season and time of date
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Torre del Gerro – Cap de Sant Antoni – Altomira
This hike leads from one area of Denia through Cap de Sant Antoni to another, to be more precise from coastal Les Rotes to the highest part of the Montgo neighborhood. Adding an extra 1 or 2 km it is possible to connect the hike into a full circle. The route includes beautiful vistas of Cap de Sant Antoni, Les Rotes, Denia, and El Montgo. This is not an official hike and runs through sections of Torre del Gerro – Molins, PR-CV 355, and Cami de Colonia in the el Montgo hiking area.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
La Vall de Gallinera, nestled in the picturesque Marina Alta region of Spain, is a hidden gem waiting to be explored. Even given a tough competition, this enchanting valley, composed of eight quaint villages, Benialí, Benirrama, Benitaia, Benissivà, La Carroja, Alpatró, Llombai, and Benissili, might be the most beautiful area in all of Marina Alta’s inland. Each village, with its own distinct character and charm, paints a picture of a region rich in history and cultural heritage. From the Moorish legacy evident in the terraced agricultural landscapes to the ancient castles perched dramatically on hilltops, La Vall de Gallinera is a testament to the layers of history that have shaped this area.
Visitors are drawn to the region not only for its historical significance but also for its natural beauty. Surrounded by the soaring peaks of the Sierra de Foradada, the valley is a haven for nature enthusiasts and hikers alike, offering a plethora of trails that wind through lush cherry orchards and aromatic pine forests. The area is especially picturesque in spring when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, casting a pink hue over the landscape and infusing the air with their delicate fragrance.
Choosing to visit La Vall de Gallinera means stepping off the beaten path to discover the authentic heart of Spain. Whether you’re interested in delving into the rich tapestry of its past, exploring the stunning natural landscape, or simply relaxing in a peaceful village setting, this valley has something for everyone. So come and experience the serene beauty and rich history of La Vall de Gallinera, where every corner holds a story waiting to be uncovered.
History of La Vall de Gallinera
Vall de Gallinera, located in the Marina Alta district of Alicante, Spain, traces its human activity back to the Neolithic period, as evidenced by archaeological discoveries such as pottery fragments and lithic tools in local caves. These early artifacts suggest that the area’s rich resources have been continuously exploited by various cultures. Notably, during the Bronze Age, the strategic location of Vall de Gallinera on elevated terrain made it an ideal settlement for defense and observation, which is reflected in the remains of fortifications found in the area.
With the arrival of the Moors in the 8th century, Vall de Gallinera entered a period of agricultural innovation and prosperity. The Moors introduced complex irrigation systems, known as “acequias,” that captured and redirected water from mountain streams to the terraced fields below, a system that significantly enhanced the agricultural output and is still visible in the landscape today. The Moors also left their mark with the construction of the “Ràfol de Salem,” a notable fortification that served as a defensive and administrative center. This period lasted until the Christian reconquest in the late 15th century, when Vall de Gallinera was integrated into the Crown of Aragon, and the Moorish population was either expelled or converted under coercive conditions, dramatically altering the demographic and cultural landscape.
In modern times, Vall de Gallinera is known not just for its historical significance but also for its cultural heritage, particularly the annual “Festes de les Danses,” which includes a series of traditional dances that are thought to have Moorish origins. The local economy, while still heavily reliant on agriculture—particularly the cultivation of cherries, olives, and almonds—has expanded to include eco-tourism, with many visitors drawn to the preserved medieval architecture, the extensive network of hiking trails, and the panoramic views of the Mediterranean landscape. This blend of deep historical layers and preserved natural beauty makes Vall de Gallinera a unique study in the continuity and change of a Mediterranean rural community through the ages.
Best time to visit: Late spring to early summer (May to June) for the cherry blossom season, and early autumn (September to October) for hiking and experiencing the harvest.
Festivals: The Cherry Blossom Festival (April); and the Moors and Christians Festival (July)
The best part of the villages found in the valley is that there are eight of them. From Benirrama to Benissili, each of them has something unique to offer. La Vall de Gallinera just seems to be created by higher forces to fit picturesque villages.
Famous for its stunning views of the surrounding mountains, Benirrama is a haven for photographers and nature lovers. The remains of an ancient Moorish castle sit atop the hill, offering a glimpse into the area’s historical strategic importance.
Benialí
This village serves as the administrative heart of the valley. Known for its well-preserved medieval architecture, Benialí boasts narrow, winding streets and traditional stone houses. The 16th-century Church of St. Michael the Archangel stands as a historical centerpiece, drawing visitors with its blend of Gothic and Baroque styles.
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Benissivà
As one of the valley’s smallest villages, Benissivà is renowned for its intimate atmosphere and the 17th-century Palace of the Counts of Sáfor, which now serves as a museum displaying local history and culture.
Benitaia
Benitaia is a small village known for its rustic charm and the beautiful Church of Santa Ana. The village’s layout reflects its Moorish past, with a labyrinth of alleys that evoke a sense of timelessness.
La Carroja
This village is the agricultural hub of the valley, surrounded by lush orchards and farmlands. La Carroja is particularly picturesque in the spring when the cherry trees are in bloom.
Alpatró
Known for its artisanal products, especially the local honey, Alpatró is a village where tradition and craftsmanship are alive and well. The main square and the Church of Saint James the Apostle are the focal points of village life.
Llombai
Llombai is a quiet village that offers a peaceful retreat from the more touristy spots in the valley. Its landscapes are dominated by olive groves and almond trees, reflecting the area’s agricultural heritage.
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Benissili
Perched on a rugged hillside, Benissili is the most dramatic of the valley’s villages. The ruins of an ancient castle loom over the village, and the area is rife with hiking trails that offer spectacular views of the valley below.
La Vall de Gallinera is a paradise for hikers, offering a variety of trails that cater to all levels of fitness and experience. Here are some of the best hiking trails in the area.
A more extensive trail that connects all eight villages of La Vall de Gallinera. This hike is perfect for those looking to explore the cultural and natural beauty of the region. It’s a longer route, about 19 km / 11.8 mi, and can take around 6 to 8 hours to complete.
Benissili Castle Trail
This short but steep trail leads to the ruins of Benissili Castle, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The trail is about 2 km / 1.2 mi round trip and takes approximately 1.5 hours to complete.
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La Carroja to Alpatró Circular Walk
This gentle circular walk connects the villages of La Carroja and Alpatró, winding through cherry orchards and farmlands. It’s a pleasant walk of around 8 km / 5 mi, which takes about 2 to 3 hours to complete.
Forada Peak has an iconic arc though which sun is visible at certain point of the day during equinox from the old Convent of Benitaia. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
La Forada Hike
There are two options to reach the most iconic peak of Vall de Gallinera: One option is literally and figuratively straightforward, and the other includes a circular educational trail. The latter route circles around the striking Penya Forada rock formation, providing stunning views and a chance to explore the local flora and fauna. The hike is around 10 km / 6.2 mi and takes about 4 hours to complete.
The other option is a moderate hike leading straight to the iconic Forada Peak, known for its distinctive hole through the mountain. The trail offers spectacular views of the valley and is particularly beautiful during sunrise or sunset. The hike is approximately 5 km / 3.1 mi round trip and takes about 3 hours to complete.
How to Get to La Vall de Gallinera
Reaching La Vall de Gallinera is an adventure in itself, offering various modes of transportation that cater to different preferences.
By Car
Driving is the most convenient way to explore La Vall de Gallinera, providing the freedom to visit each village at your own pace. From Alicante, take the AP-7 motorway towards Valencia, then switch to the CV-700. The scenic drive through the mountains offers stunning views and the journey takes approximately 1.5 hours. Parking is available in each of the villages, though it can be limited during peak tourist seasons
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By Bike
For the more adventurous, cycling to La Vall de Gallinera is a rewarding experience that offers a closer connection to the landscape. The region’s winding roads and steep inclines are a challenge but offer unparalleled views and a sense of accomplishment. Be prepared for a strenuous ride, especially during the summer months, and always carry sufficient water and sun protection.
Personal Experience
Vall de Gallinera is among my favorites in the region. It beats my second top location of Marina Alta inland – Vall de Laguar, and is definitely on par with the best destinations of coastal areas of this exotic Comarca of Spain. When putting together a list of points of interest in the areas around Denia for my friends, I always include Vall de Gallinera. I don’t know if it is just me, but terraced landscapes tend to steal my heart completely. Not to mention the picturesque cherry, olive, and various citrus trees growing in the area.
In Vall de Gallinera, everything is so packed, that it really doesn’t matter if you come here for picturesque villages, vegetation blossoms, hikes, or beautiful vistas in general, you’ll get everything zipped into a pack anyway. This makes this beautiful crown jewel of Marina Alta inland a particularly attractive destination, whether you are a tourist or a local. I personally, enjoy my every visit to Vall de Gallinera, therefore I couldn’t recommend it more to anyone visiting the region.
Nestled along the Mediterranean coast, the charming city of Denia comes alive every March with the vibrant and fiery festival of Fallas, marking one of Spain’s most unique and spirited celebrations. Inscribed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2016, this dazzling event transforms many cities across the region into a canvas of colossal effigies, fiery displays, and communal joy, showcasing a tradition steeped in creativity, satire, and the welcoming of spring. While Valencia may be the heartland of the Fallas festivities, Denia, with its own distinctive charm and fervor, offers a compelling experience that mirrors the grandeur and intensity of its larger counterpart yet maintains an intimate community feel.
The Fallas in Denia 2024 promises an unforgettable spectacle, inviting locals and visitors alike to immerse themselves in a cultural phenomenon that blends ancient customs with contemporary artistry. As a testament to the enduring bond between Denia and its ancestral traditions, the festival not only honors the town’s heritage but also serves as a dynamic platform for social commentary and artistic expression. From the intricate design of the fallas (monumental sculptures) to the exhilarating burst of fireworks lighting up the night sky, every element of the festival is a tribute to the creativity, ingenuity, and spirited communal life of Denia.
Fallas in Denia has a unique flavor of its own, the festival in the Capital of Marina Alta is a particularly attractive location for the popular Valencian festivity because the sculptures are burned one by one. This way, allows curious people to enjoy the spectacle in all parts of town bit by bit. Whether you’re drawn to the spectacle for its artistic merits, the thrill of the pyrotechnics, or the warmth of community gatherings, the Fallas festival in Denia offers a rich tapestry of experiences that resonate with the essence of Spanish festivity and tradition.
A Brief History of Fallas Denia
The roots of the Fallas festival in Denia, much like those in the rest of the Valencian Community, intertwine deeply with the region’s history, blending medieval customs, pagan rituals, and Christian celebrations into a vibrant tapestry of cultural expression. Originally, Fallas began as a feast day for St. Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters, marking the arrival of spring with the burning of waste materials and old wooden items collected during the winter. This act of purification and renewal, over centuries, evolved into the elaborate festival we witness today, characterized by the creation and destruction of fallas – elaborate sculptures that are as satirical as they are spectacular.
Denia’s adaptation of this tradition has grown in scale and complexity, reflecting both local and global themes through its fallas. These towering figures, crafted with incredible skill and wit, fill the city’s squares and streets, turning Denia into an open-air museum of ephemeral art. Each falla is a marvel of design, engineering, and artistry, representing months of dedication by local artists and communities. They often depict scenes of social, political, and cultural commentary, providing insight into contemporary issues with humor and creativity.
The festival’s crescendo, the ‘Nit de la Cremà’ (Night of the Burning), sees these magnificent sculptures consumed by flames in a symbolic act of regeneration and rebirth. This spectacular finale, lit against the backdrop of Denia’s historic landscapes and Mediterranean charm, is a poignant reminder of the cycle of life and the impermanence of art.
Through periods of prohibition and revival, the Fallas festival has persisted, embodying the resilience and adaptability of the Valencian spirit. Even during the Franco regime, when regional languages and traditions were suppressed, Fallas found a way to endure, adapting its forms of expression to ensure its survival. Today, recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the Fallas festival stands as a testament to the community’s commitment to its cultural legacy, celebrating not just the arrival of spring but also the enduring power of creativity and community. In Denia, the Fallas festival is more than just a series of events; it is a communal act of creation, celebration, and renewal, deeply woven into the fabric of the city’s identity.
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Main events: The Plantà (March 11-16), La Ofrenda (March 17-18), Nit de la Cremà (March 19)
Fallas Denia Map
Where to Stay?
Having experienced the Fallas festival in Denia, it’s clear the entire city vibrates with the festival’s energy, especially during this period. Your accommodation choice should depend on what you’re looking to get out of your visit. If you’re here to dive deep into the festivities, staying close to the city center will keep you near the heart of the action. For those primarily interested in the ‘Nit de la Cremà’ and don’t mind a bit of travel, options outside the center could also work well. Denia’s local transportation, including buses and taxis, efficiently accommodates the influx of visitors, ensuring you’re never too far from the festival’s highlights.
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Fallas Denia 2024 Schedule
The Fallas in Denia 2024 promises an array of events filled with tradition, art, and community spirit. To help you navigate through the festivities, here’s a breakdown of the schedule:
Week 1
Thursday, February 8
19:00: Opening of the Fallas clubhouses
19:30: Visit of the judging panel to the clubhouses participating in the decorated clubhouses prize
Saturday, February 10
18:15: Gathering of the Fallas commissions, Local Fallas Board, major Falleras of Dénia, and courts of honor on Federico García Lorca street.
18:30: Visit of the major Falleras of Dénia, courts of honor, Local Fallas Board, and commissions to the clubhouses of the Fallas Camp Roig, Campaments, Darrere del Castell, Les Roques, and Baix la Mar, and Fallas announcements
Week 2
Thursday, February 15
19:30: Visit of the judging panel to the clubhouses participating in the decorated clubhouses prize
Friday, February 16
10:30 to 13:00 and 16:00 to 19:00: Reception of Ninots participants of the Ninot Exhibition at Casa de la Marquesa Valero de Palma
19:45: Gathering of the Fallas commissions, Local Fallas Board, major Falleras of Dénia, and courts of honor in Valgamediós Square.
18:30: Visit of the major Falleras of Dénia, courts of honor, Local Fallas Board, and commissions to the clubhouses of the Fallas West, Center, Port Rotes, Diana, Saladar, and Paris Pedrera, and Fallas announcements
Saturday, February 17
17:45: Gathering of the Fallas officials 2024 at the end of Marqués de Campo street
18:00: Parade to the Ninot Exhibition
18:30: Opening of the Ninot Exhibition 2024 at Casa de la Marquesa
20:00: Crida by the major Falleras of Dénia, Mar Moncho Roselló and Candela Marco Jiménez, and proclamation, in Constitució square
21:00: Fallera Gala Dinner with the award of the 2024 Exemplary Fallero distinction and awards of JLF and JCF at L’Androna Multiespai Room.
Sunday, February 18
18:30: Children’s Fallera Gala with the awards of JLF and JCF. Afterwards, snack for the attending children.
Week 3
Pause
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Week 4
March 1 to 14
14:00: Tir de carcasses (firecracker event)
Saturday, March 2
13:00: Dinar de Germanor (Brotherhood meal) in Torrecremada, and awarding of the Best Fallas Ban, Best Fallas Presentations, Best Showcase, Best Presenters, Best Keepers, Child’s Pardoned Ninot, and Adult’s Pardoned Ninot
Sunday, March 3
12:00: Concert by the Artistic Musical Group of Dénia, at the crossroads of Saladar Av. and Diana St.
Week 5
Wednesday, March 6
09:45 to 13:30 and 16:45 to 20:30: Fallera blood donation in Llunàtics Multipurpose Room.
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20:00: First Night of Serenades to the major Falleras of Dénia in the following order:
Major Falleras of Dénia – Plaza de la Constitució (Constitution Square)
Falla Les Roques
Falla West
Falla Campaments
Falla Behind the Castle
Falla Baix la Mar
Friday, March 15
10:00: Breakfast in the Fallas areas
10:00: The FFMM, Mar Moncho Roselló and Candela Marco Jiménez, will welcome visitors at the Tourist Office of Oculist Buigues square
14:00: Tir de carcasses (firecracker event) and Plantà meal in the Fallas neighborhoods
20:00: Second Night of Serenades:
Falla Camp Roig
Falla Paris-Pedrera
Falla Saladar
Falla Diana
Falla Port Rotes
Falla Center
Saturday, March 16
08:00: Planting of the Fallas monuments in the different districts of the city
10:00: Breakfast in all the Fallas districts
12:30: Planting of the Local Fallas Board’s Falla in Consell Square
14:00: Tir de carcasses (firecracker event) and Plantà meal in the Fallas neighborhoods
18:00: Courtesy visit of the major Falleras of Dénia, Courts of Honor, and Local Fallas Board to the Fallas districts in the following order:
Falla Les Roques
Falla Baix la Mar
Falla Behind the Castle
Falla Campaments
Falla West
Falla Camp Roig
Falla Paris-Pedrera
Falla Saladar
Falla Diana
Falla Port Rotes
Falla Center
21:00: Plantà dinner
22:00: Announcement rockets for the Night of the Planting
Denia Fallas Main Event
Sunday, March 17- La Ofrenda
07:00: Wake-up call in the Fallas areas
08:00: Visit of the judging panel to the Fallas
09:00: Visit of the rest of the juries
10:45: Gathering of all the commissions in the Town Hall Square
11:00: Tribute to the major Falleras of Dénia and to the major Falleras of Les Roques, Behind the Castle, and Baix la Mar
13:00: Awarding of children’s prizes at the Town Hall
14:00: Mascletà in the different Fallas districts
18:15: Gathering of all the commissions on Patricio Ferrándiz street.
18:30: Homages to the major Falleras of Paris Pedrera, Camp Roig, Campaments, and West
20:30: Awarding of the prizes for the big Fallas 2024 at the Town Hall
23:00: Festivals in the Fallas districts
Monday, March 18 – La Ofrenda
07:00: Wake-up call in the Fallas areas
11:15: Gathering of all the commissions in Consell square
11:30: Tribute to the major Falleras of Center, Port Rotes, Diana, and Saladar
14:00: Mascletà in the Fallas districts
20:30: Mascletà in Jaume I Square
23:00: Festivals in the Fallas districts
Tuesday, March 19 – St. Joseph’s Day
07:00: Wake-up call in the Fallas areas
08:00: Children’s wake-up call
10:00: Parades in the Fallas areas
11:00: Mass in honor of St. Joseph at the Church of the Assumption
11:00: Flower offering in honor of la Virgen de los Desamparados (the Virgin of the Forsaken). Route: Marqués de Campo St., Diana St., Magallanes, Convent Sq.
14:30: Mascletàs in the Fallas districts
18:00: Parades in the Fallas districts
19:00: Reception for the new presidents for the 2024-2025 period in the Town Hall Square
Burning Times of the Fallas Dénia 2024
20:00: Burning of the Local Fallas Board of Dénia’s Falla
As the festive season approaches, the Marina Alta region in Spain becomes a canvas for a heartwarming tradition that has been cherished for generations – the display of Betlems, or nativity scenes. This tradition, deeply rooted in the Valencian Community, just as it is Spanish culture in general. Nevertheless, each region has its own quirks and taste to approach this long-standing tradition. You’ll find a unique expression in the towns of Marina Alta, where each Betlem is not just a depiction of the Nativity story but a reflection of the community’s artistic flair and dedication.
The Origin and Significance of Betlems in Spanish Culture
The practice of setting up nativity scenes, or ‘Beléns’ as they are known in Spanish, or ‘Betlems’ as they are known locally in Valenciano language, dates back to the 13th century. St. Francis of Assisi is credited with creating the first nativity scene in 1223, aiming to cultivate the worship of Christ. From this humble beginning in Italy, the tradition spread to Spain, where it evolved over centuries to become an integral part of the Christmas celebration.
In Marina Alta, this tradition takes on a local flavor. Each town brings its own history, culture and local crafts to life through these intricate displays. The Betlems are more than just religious symbols; they are a showcase of craftsmanship and a focal point for community gatherings during the holiday season. Marina Alta, and Spain in general, is crazy about miniature nativity scenes, just with a rather odd twist. It evolved in a strange way – that baby Jesus is not the main superstar bur rather ‘the pooper’, or locally known as ‘El Caganer’. These rather odd figures appear even in the local Nativity Scenes in churches, though always on the furthest corner fro the baby Jesus. Their origin is unknown, some guess that they symbolize the fertilization of the land, but knowing the fun character of Spanish people my bet would be that ‘the popper’ is just a prank gone wild.
The Uniqueness of Marina Alta’s Betlems
What sets the Betlems of Marina Alta apart is their . These nativity scenes are not just displays; they are stories told through art, capturing the essence of the region’s rich cultural tapestry. The use of local materials like wood, clay, and textiles, and the incorporation of scenes depicting traditional Spanish life, make each Betlem a unique piece of art.
As we delve deeper into the world of Marina Alta’s Betlems, we find ourselves immersed in a tradition that beautifully intertwines religious reverence with artistic expression and community spirit. In the following section, we will explore some of the most popular nativity scenes in Marina Alta, each with its own story and charm.
El Vergel’s nativity scene, a tradition for nearly 30 years, is a marvel of community effort. Each piece, crafted by local volunteers, reflects their dedication and affection. The scene has evolved over time, featuring realistic mountains mimicking local landscapes like the Serra de Segària, historical period houses made from plaster and cardboard, and unique handcrafted figures. This Betlem is a vivid portrayal of the Christmas story, intertwined with El Vergel’s rich community life and creative spirit
Denia offers a unique twist by situating its nativity scene by the sea. This maritime Betlem, complete with fishing boats and sea-related elements, reflects Denia’s close relationship with the Mediterranean. The sound of waves gently lapping against the shore adds a serene and contemplative ambiance to the traditional nativity story.
Xàbia’s nativity scene is a testament to traditional Spanish craftsmanship. Using local materials and age-old techniques, this Betlem is a homage to the enduring nature of Spanish Christmas traditions. The detailed figurines, dressed in period attire, and the realistic miniature buildings offer a glimpse into the historical lifestyle of Marina Alta.
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Pego
Pego’s Betlem is a true historic gem, featuring main figures that are over a century old, originally part of the Franciscan nuns’ nativity scene. These figures, rich in history, were donated to the town when the nuns left about two decades ago. The Associació Betlemista de Pego, led by Salvador Miralles, Pepe Mengual, and Abril Sendra, played a pivotal role in the Betlem’s restoration. This meticulous handwork, coupled with new figures crafted from recycled materials or hand-painted, represents a blend of tradition and innovation. Notable aspects include hand-restored main figures, structures made from cork and other recycled materials, and small details like fruits, vegetables, and doves crafted from cold porcelain. Additionally, the Betlem features elements that replicate real geographic locations in Pego, adding a layer of local charm and authenticity.
This town won’t miss a chance to entertain its visitors and inhabitants. Here, Nativity Scenes lines-up into a long list of things to do in Calpe. Naturally, Calpe respects its long standing culture and history, and maintains tradition of Betlems, just with a twist. Calpe’s Nativity Scene stands out with its interactive nativity scene, where visitors can walk through and experience the story of Jesus’ birth up close. This engaging approach, combined with live performances on certain days, makes Calpe’s Betlem a lively and immersive experience for all ages.
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Personal Experience
My December visit to Marina Alta offered a unique glimpse into the rich tapestry of Christmas traditions, where each town’s Betlem, or nativity scene, was not just a display but a vibrant narrative of culture, faith, and community. As I meandered through the region, each Betlem I encountered was a testament to local artistry and tradition. In Pego, the meticulous craftsmanship and lighting of the scene were spellbinding, weaving a story of hope and joy. Vergel’s nativity scene, lovingly crafted by local artisans, radiated a warm sense of community, reflecting the stories and spirit of its creators.
What struck me most was the diversity and uniqueness of each town’s interpretation of the Nativity story. From traditional materials to scenes depicting local life, every Betlem I saw was deeply rooted in the region’s history and cultural heritage. This journey through Marina Alta’s nativity scenes was more than just a festive tour; it was an immersion into the heart and soul of the region. The Betlems stand as vibrant expressions of the communities’ culture and faith, leaving me with not only memories of their beauty but a profound appreciation of the traditions that unify Marina Alta.
Nestled on the sun-kissed coast of Spain, Calpe beckons with its rich tapestry of history and natural beauty. This charming town, cradled by the majestic Penon de Ifach, has witnessed the ebb and flow of civilizations for over 3,000 years. The Phoenicians, known for their seafaring prowess, were among the earliest to leave their mark, drawn to this region by the same rock formation that today stands as a symbol of Calpe’s enduring allure. As they navigated the Iberian shores, they referred to the Penon de Ifach as the “rock of the north,” contrasting it with the renowned rock of Gibraltar, then known as Mons Calpe. These early settlers saw in Calpe’s rugged landscape a mirror to their other settlements across the Mediterranean, leaving behind a legacy that whispers through the town’s ancient streets.
Calpe’s story is further enriched by the footprints of the Greeks and Romans. The Greeks, in their vast explorations, recognized the unique geological formations like Penon de Ifach, terming them ‘Calpe,’ a name resonating with descriptions of large stand-alone rocks. This connection to the ancient world hints at a deeper, possibly pre-Roman, history of the town, suggesting an intriguing blend of cultures over the millennia. The Romans, captivated by Calpe’s strategic location and natural beauty, established a settlement that has grown into a treasure trove of historical wonders. Baños de la Reina, a testament to Roman ingenuity with its well-preserved mosaics and hydraulic systems, stands as a silent witness to the town’s vibrant past. These ancient ruins, now nestled between the iconic Penon de Ifach and Calpe’s bustling city center, offer a portal to a time when Romans appreciated the natural splendors of this enchanting land, a sentiment that continues to resonate with modern visitors. Today, the city enjoys a huge interest from foreigners and locals alike resulting in rapid growth in size and attractions.
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1. Visit Peñón de Ifach
Standing as a natural sentinel over Calpe, the Peñón de Ifach is an obvious number-one activity for any great outdoors enthusiast visiting the area. This towering limestone formation, soaring 332 m / 1,089 ft above the sea, is not only an iconic symbol of the region but also a haven for nature enthusiasts and hikers. The climb to the top, though steep and challenging, rewards visitors with breathtaking panoramic views of Calpe’s coastline and the vast Mediterranean Sea. Along the way, hikers are likely to encounter a rich variety of local flora and fauna, including rare bird species. The summit offers a unique opportunity to appreciate the beauty of the Costa Blanca from an unparalleled vantage point, making this experience a memorable highlight of any trip to Calpe. The views from the top of the rock of Calpe are so exceptionally beautiful that many people are trying to hit above their class by climbing the mountain. If you are not sure you are fit for the task, you can read more about it in my guide to the Penon de Ifach hike.
The central walls of the bastion in the middle of Calpe were built somewhere between the 13th and 14th centuries to protect local farmers from Muslim attacks. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
2. Visit the Historic Old Town
Calpe’s Historic Old Town is a vibrant tapestry of history and culture, offering a journey back in time through its narrow, winding streets. This charming quarter is a mosaic of ancient stone buildings, colorful murals, and Gothic churches, each telling its own story of the town’s rich past. As you wander through these quaint lanes, you’ll discover hidden plazas and delightful cafés, perfect for soaking in the local atmosphere. The Torreó de la Peça, an old defense tower, now serves as a cultural symbol of the town’s resilience through the ages. The blend of Moorish and Spanish architecture is a visual feast, and the artisan shops scattered throughout the area offer unique, handcrafted souvenirs. A visit to the old town is not just a walk through Calpe’s history, but an immersive experience in the living heart of this enchanting Spanish town. If you want to learn more about this topic, I have a separate article where I focus purely on the Old Town and the rich history of Calpe and the region.
3. Enjoy Sunset on a Boat Cruise
There’s no more enchanting way to end a day in Calpe than by embarking on a sunset boat cruise. As the sun dips below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of orange, pink, and purple, the Mediterranean Sea turns into a glittering canvas of colors. Aboard the cruise, you can feel the gentle sea breeze and hear the soothing sound of the waves, creating a serene and romantic atmosphere. It’s an ideal setting for photography enthusiasts, capturing the silhouette of the Peñón de Ifach against the fiery sky. Cruises include amenities like light refreshments or dinner, allowing you to savor local flavors while you float along the coast. This magical experience not only offers a different perspective of Calpe’s stunning coastline but also provides a tranquil moment to reflect on the day’s adventures.
4. See Great Flamingos in Les Salinas de Calpe
A visit to Les Salinas de Calpe offers a unique wildlife experience right in the heart of the town. This natural saltwater lagoon, a remnant of ancient salt mining traditions, has become a sanctuary for a variety of bird species, most notably the elegant flamingos. These iconic birds, with their vibrant pink plumage and graceful movements, create a picturesque scene against the backdrop of the lagoon and the distant Peñón de Ifach. Bird watchers and nature lovers can stroll around the perimeter of the lagoon, enjoying the tranquility and capturing stunning photographs. The presence of informational boards along the paths provides insights into the ecology of the area and the life cycle of these fascinating birds. A visit to Les Salinas is not just a chance to witness the beauty of flamingos in their natural habitat, but also an opportunity to appreciate the delicate balance of Calpe’s unique ecosystem.
Playa de la Fossa(right) and Arenal-Bol(Far-left) from the tunnel to Penon de Ifach peak. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
5. Explore the Beaches of Calpe
The beaches of Calpe are a cornerstone of its charm, offering a perfect blend of natural beauty and leisure activities. From the bustling Arenal-Bol to the more serene La Fossa, each beach has its own unique character. Arenal-Bol, with its fine golden sand and crystal-clear waters, is ideal for families, offering a safe and vibrant environment for swimming and sunbathing. La Fossa, known for its picturesque views of the Peñón de Ifach, provides a tranquil escape with its pristine shoreline and gentle waves. For those seeking a more secluded experience, the small coves dotting the coastline, like Cala del Morelló, offer peaceful retreats away from the crowds. Each beach is well-equipped with amenities like sun loungers, beach bars, and water sports facilities, ensuring a comfortable and enjoyable day by the sea. Whether you’re looking to relax under the Mediterranean sun, take a dip in the azure waters, or try your hand at windsurfing or paddleboarding, Calpe’s beaches offer something for every kind of beach-goer.
6. Take a Leisurely Stroll along the Promenade
The Paseo Marítimo in Calpe is a delightful promenade that stretches along the coastline, offering a scenic route for a leisurely walk. Lined with swaying palm trees and offering stunning views of the sea and the Peñón de Ifach, the promenade is a perfect place to experience the vibrant heartbeat of Calpe. As you stroll along, you’ll pass by a variety of charming restaurants and cafes, each offering a taste of local and international cuisine, often with al fresco dining options that allow you to enjoy your meal with a view. The walkway is also dotted with small boutiques and souvenir shops, perfect for browsing local crafts and gifts. In the evenings, the promenade comes alive with a gentle buzz of activity, making it an ideal spot for a romantic walk under the stars or an enjoyable evening out with family and friends. Whether for a morning jog, a leisurely afternoon stroll, or an evening meander, the Paseo Marítimo is a must-visit to truly embrace the coastal charm of Calpe.
7. Climb Morro de Toix
For those seeking an adventure off the beaten path, climbing Morro de Toix offers an exhilarating experience. This impressive cliff, located at the edge of Calpe, provides stunning views of the coastline and the Mediterranean Sea. As you ascend, the panoramic vistas unfold, offering breathtaking perspectives of the Calpe bays and the sprawling landscapes below. For rock climbing enthusiasts, there are various routes with different levels of difficulty, each promising an exciting and rewarding journey, but regular people can always climb Morro de Toix via urbanization roads from Calpe’s side. The summit of Morro de Toix is a peaceful spot, ideal for contemplation and taking in the natural beauty of the Costa Blanca. This activity not only tests your physical limits but also provides a unique way to connect with the rugged and raw beauty of Calpe’s natural landscape.
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8. Enjoy Fresh Seafood & Local Cuisine
Calpe’s culinary scene is a delightful celebration of fresh seafood and traditional Spanish flavors. The town’s close proximity to the sea ensures a constant supply of fresh fish and seafood, making it a paradise for seafood lovers. Local restaurants, ranging from cozy taverns to elegant eateries, offer a variety of dishes that showcase the best of Mediterranean cuisine. Signature dishes like paella, seafood stew, and fresh grilled fish are prepared with locally sourced ingredients, bringing the authentic taste of the region to your plate. Alongside seafood, one can also savor other regional specialties such as arroz a banda (rice cooked in fish stock), tapas, and fideuà (a noodle dish similar to paella). For a truly immersive experience, pair your meal with a glass of local wine or a refreshing sangria. Dining in Calpe is not just about the food; it’s an opportunity to indulge in the rich gastronomic culture of the region, with each meal offering a glimpse into the town’s culinary heritage and the Mediterranean lifestyle.
9. Visit Suitopia Skybar
Elevating the experience of Calpe’s vibrant nightlife is the Suitopia Skybar, a must-visit destination for those seeking a blend of luxury and stunning views. Located at the top of one of Calpe’s tallest buildings, this stylish skybar offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the town, the Mediterranean Sea, and the majestic Peñón de Ifach. As the sun sets, the skybar transforms into a picturesque setting, with the changing colors of the sky creating a mesmerizing backdrop. Guests can enjoy a variety of expertly crafted cocktails, fine wines, and a selection of gourmet snacks, all served in an elegant and contemporary atmosphere. The Suitopia Skybar is not just about the drinks; it’s an experience that combines stunning vistas, sophisticated ambiance, and exceptional service. Whether you’re looking to relax after a day of exploring or seeking a sophisticated evening out, the Suitopia Skybar promises an unforgettable experience in the heart of Calpe.
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Map of Calpe & Walks
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Nestled amongst the bustling modernity, Calpe’s old town is a hidden gem, a testament to its rich and diverse history. Wandering through its narrow streets, one can feel the layers of time peeling back, revealing tales of ancient civilizations and bygone eras. The town’s architecture is a mosaic of different influences – from the Moors to the Romans – each leaving an indelible mark on its character. Intricate doorways lead to sun-dappled courtyards, and the scent of traditional Spanish cuisine wafts from small family-owned restaurants. Despite the encroaching modern developments, this part of Calpe remains stubbornly authentic, a bastion of the town’s heritage. It’s a place where the past coexists with the present, offering a serene contrast to the thriving tourist spots nearby. Here, the true essence of Calpe’s spirit endures, unspoiled and enchanting, inviting those who seek more than just a superficial glimpse into its storied past.
The historic center of Calpe is so engulfed by hotels and second-apartment houses that it is very easy to miss it entirely. It took me a couple of years to find it – the old town hides much further from Penon de Ifach and the main beaches. At some point, it felt absolutely unnoticed by the crowds, and thank God. It is a true break from the noisy promenades and touristic restaurants. A small corner where the locals can still enjoy their typical Spanish life on Costa Blanca and I have to say with a style. The tourist cow is bringing a lot of milk to Calpe, and the streets and houses of the historic center are more colourful than an average town in Spain. Though perfect for Instagram pictures, it is not everything Calpe has to offer, the town has a long history which now is literally lost between the hotels.
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Calpe is located at one of the most beautiful geographical places in Costa Blanca. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Calpe’s Origins
Thanks to the graceful rock known as Penon de Ifach (Spanish peñón de translates to the “rock of”, and Libo-Phoenician Ifac to “of the north”), this area has been known at least since the times when the first Phoenicians have been exploring the Iberian shores about 3,000 years ago. These ancient but great navigators referred to Gibraltar and Penon de Ifach as the south and the north rocks, respectively. It wouldn’t surprise anyone if they settled in the area of the current-day Calpe. Especially, given that they were the first historical settlers near the rock of Gibraltar, which back then was known as Mons Calpe (Phoenician the “hollowed mountain”). The archaeological data shows Phoenician presence since 950 BC. Gibraltar was by far not the only Phoenician settlement in the Iberian peninsula, therefore it is a plausible thesis for them to have settled in a town with the same name as Mons Calpe by a similar graceful rock.
The Greeks knew even more Calpes. In 401 BC, after the battle of Cunaxa, the Greek philosopher Xenophon found himself as the leader of 10,000 fleeing men through an unknown country. In his diary, the Greek speaks of Calpe – a large rock on the shores of the Black Sea. It is hard to say if it was the name of a settlement or simply the name for such geological formations. Either way, Calpe was clearly mentioned in that name several times in Xenophon’s diary and in some ancient Greek maps. Today that settlement is probably known as Kerpe.
Translated from Greek, Calpe means something similar to urn or round-vessel. The word might have been used to describe large stand-alone rocks like Gibraltar and Penon de Ifach. Given that the ancient Greeks already knew how to process fish, could it be that Baños de la Reina salting factory was founded much earlier than we imagine? Maybe, Greek sailors colonized the area before the Romans? That remains only a thesis for now.
During the Roman times, Calpe was nothing but a small enclave, dependent on the nearby Dianium (Today’s Denia). Despite its size, this ancient site holds many wonders of its own. The Roman settlement had a hydraulic system, which provided water to its inhabitants. Also, because of its well-preserved mosaics, Calpe is counted as one of the most important Roman heritage sites in the province of Alicante. Today, it lies almost unnoticed between Penon de Ifach and the city center. Ironically, the first hotels of Calpe arose just next to the ancient settlement in the early 20s.
One thing I’m sure of the Spanish ancestors is that they appreciated natural beauty as much as modern humans do, and possibly even more. The Roman baths and fishery pools, known as Baños de la Reina, in Calpe, were built close by Penon de Ifach, just at the right distance to appreciate its magnificence the most. While the site was most likely used mainly for the fish farming and salinating needs of the nearby city Dianium, the scenery must have been taken into account for the location of the settlement. One could argue that the desire of modern people to move to Calpe was inherited from the Romans or the people who have been doing the same process even before.
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Not that many remain in the historic records of Calpe during the Moorish reign. One possibility is that the invasion of the Muslims into the Iberian Peninsula could have given the name to Calpe even before the conquerors arrived here. It is well known that in the 8th century, the Berber commander Tariq ibn Ziyad launched his attack from Gibraltar Rock, which was known ever since as Jabal Tariq (eng. the mountain of Tariq). This name evolved into modern Gibraltar but the town by the iconic rock was known as Calpe since the prehistoric Phoenician times. you can even find the name “Calpe” on the coat of arms of Gibraltar. It could be that in the 8th century, the settlers of Calpe of the straits fled as far as possible to Costa Blanca, where they found a similar rock and named their new settlement in honour of their old home.
After a successful conquest of Marina Alta, the new rulers built their castle further to the South from Calpe, on a mountain, overlooking the Canyon of Mascarat. It was the central administrative and defensive base in the area of Marina Alta to the south of Mount Montgo. The Moors remained in control until the region was reconquered by the Christians somewhere in 1240-54.
Despite that, many Moors were allowed to remain in Iberia in their homes. Those who chose this path got to be known as mudéjar (romanized version of Arabic “mudajjan”, meaning tamed, domesticated). In fact, unlike most of the Iberian Peninsula, Muslims greatly outnumbered Christians in the region of Valencia. These demographics combined with the discrimination and violence against Mudéjar people led to several uprisings, known as Al-Azraq revolts in honour of the famous commander who led all of them. Al-Azraq (Arabian the one with blue eyes) had a Muslim father and a Christian mother. Even after these revolts, the local Muslim population was allowed to live in the area including Calpe until 1526, when Islam was banned in the Kingdom of Aragon. Between 1609-1614, even Moriscos (Mudéjars converted to Christianity) were expelled from the country.
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The Christian Calpe
There are speculations that the city walls of the historic Calpe could be dating as far as Roman times but there is no direct evidence to this thesis. In fact, it was the Christian King Pere IV who ordered the strengthening of the existing walls in 1338 but it was executed only in 1375 under Alfons el Vell who found the money for the job in the budget. It was crucial for the existence of Calpe in these sometimes hostile lands. Soon after, in 1386 the castle of Calpe was divided into towns currently known as Teulada, Benissa, Senija, and Calpe. The newly formed units started to shape the area into what we are used to today.
The central walls of the bastion in the middle of Calpe were built somewhere between the 13th and 14th centuries to protect local farmers from Muslim attacks. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Probably the biggest impact on Marina Alta and Calpe during the Christian reign was done with the terrible decree to expel Moriscos from Spain. It was signed by King Felipe III himself, which left the Moors only with three days to reach the closest port to leave the country. Moriscos were allowed to take only what they could carry on their bodies. Everything else was to stay. To make things worse, anyone who found Moorish people after the three days was allowed to take everything from them and even kill Moriscos if they resisted. This, of course, went wrong in all possible ways, not to mention the fact that the Moors had lived in the Iberian Peninsula for over 800 years at that time. Twice as many years have passed since this inhumane event.
At that time, 127,000 Moriscos, who were expelled or killed represented 30% of the Valencian population. The area of Denia and Javea alone lost about 42,000 people and in many cases, they were the most productive people around. Obviously, these events had counter-productive consequences, and the only people to profit were the people in charge, of selling the homes and other property of Moriscos. Even so, the profits were only short-term because the lands were left uncultivated, and the equilibrium was destroyed. Nothing was left but despair and desolation on the shores of Calpe and Valencia in general. In the 17th century, the town was plagued by Barbary pirates. Calpe was no exception. Most of the coastal areas have experienced the attacks – it was the same Moriscos who had returned to their homeland with rage against Spain. Nevertheless, the population of Calpe kept increasing and the situation of the town finally consolidated after hundreds of years of hardships. The growth of the town continued towards the direction of provincial powerhouses Alicante and Altea.
Today, Calpe is a very popular vacation destination or a second house choice, once again the city seems to have become the home for many different peoples. Maybe, that is the correct recipe for its success.
Wandering around the streets of the historic center of Calpe is well worth at least 1 – 2 hours of your time. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Things to do in Calpe
Explore Valencia from Calpe: Full-Day Excursion
Discover the rich history of Valencia on a day trip from Calpe, with cultural highlights and free time to explore.
If you are interested in finding out more activities in the city, you can read my guide for the best things to do in Calpe.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Nestled within the inland of the breathtaking region of Marina Alta in Spain, La Vall de Laguar is a splendid union of three picturesque towns: Campell, Fleix, and Benimaurell, plus Fontilles – a renowned senatorium and research center for the diseases of the poor. Each of these towns boasts its unique charm, telling tales of ancient civilizations, vibrant cultures, and the rich tapestry of Spanish history.
Visitors to La Vall de Laguar are often drawn to its enchanting vistas, a blend of serene mountains and lush valleys. The landscape here paints a picture of untouched nature and promises an intimate experience with the land’s pure essence. The region offers an array of activities, from trekking along the rugged mountain trails to indulging in the tranquil beauty of its valleys. For those who seek an authentic Spanish experience, La Vall de Laguar serves as a portal to the past, all while offering modern comforts and amenities.
For the discerning traveler, a trip to La Vall de Laguar isn’t just about the sights; it’s a call to connect deeply with the soul of Spain. The allure of the towns and their heartwarming residents beckons you to immerse yourself in their way of life. As you plan your next adventure, consider the magic of La Vall de Laguar and embrace the opportunity to journey through time and beauty.
History & Legend of La Vall de Laguar
But beneath the idyllic silent landscapes lies a tale of a bloody resistance and legend, centered around the Cavall Verd Ridge (Valenciano as “Cavall Verd” and Castellano “Caballo Verde”). This area, resonating with the echoes of history, was the final bastion of the Moors, who faced their forced exile in 1609. The legend woven into these hills speaks of Ezzme de Laguart, a renowned sorceress and healer from Laguar, whose prophecy of the green horse sparked a rebellion against their expulsion.
In a valiant stand, 1500 local rebels, led by the farmer Mellini, gathered at the Cavall Verd crest, armed with mere slingshots, stones, and a crossbow, to face a formidable force of five thousand battle-hardened soldiers from Naples and Sicily. Despite their courage, the Moorish resistance met a tragic end, with many choosing to leap from the cliffs or hide in the Cavall Verd caves rather than face defeat. This tragic conflict saw the valley emptied of its original inhabitants, only to be repopulated in 1611 by settlers from Mallorca, whose descendants still carry the legacy of this historical moment in their family names today.
Campell
Steeped in history and surrounded by natural splendor, Campell stands as a testament to the timeless beauty of Marina Alta. Originally established as an Iberian settlement, the town has witnessed the ebb and flow of various cultures, from the Romans to the Moors, and then back to the Christians. These historic imprints are evident in the town’s architecture, blending Moorish designs with more modern Spanish influences.
Today, Campell is a harmonious mix of the past and present. Its narrow cobbled streets lead visitors through a maze of quaint houses, with bursts of colorful flowers adorning balconies and courtyards. The town square, buzzing with life, serves as a gathering spot for both locals and tourists alike, offering a glimpse into the daily life of the community. Modern amenities have found their place in Campell without overshadowing its historic charm. Local cafes and eateries provide a culinary journey, highlighting the region’s rich flavors and traditional recipes. As night falls, the town transforms into a peaceful haven, with the soft glow of street lamps illuminating its charming pathways.
Also known as Poble d’Enmig (“Town of In the Middle”), Fleix is not just a tranquil little town in the heart of La Vall de Laguer. It is a town with roots that trace back centuries, Fleix’s historical narrative is as captivating as its scenic beauty. I was once a strategic stronghold during the era of the Moors. Its elevated location provided both defense and a vantage point overlooking the majestic valleys below. But, after the expulsion of the Moors and repopulation in 1611, Fleix joined arms with Benimaurell and Campell to form a single unit.
Today, Fleix has maintained its quaint charm, seamlessly blending the old with the new. Its winding alleys echo tales of yesteryears, guiding visitors past beautifully preserved stone houses, remnants of ancient fortifications, and the iconic church that stands as the town’s spiritual heart. The church’s bell, with its melodious chimes, punctuates the daily rhythm of life in Fleix.
While the town may seem secluded at first glance, it’s this very seclusion that lends it its unparalleled charm. Modern conveniences, though present, take a backseat, allowing the town’s history and nature to shine. Whether it’s indulging in local delicacies at a family-owned eatery, hiking and embracing the marvelous nature of La Vall de Laguar, or simply basking in the panoramic views from a hilltop, Fleix invites you to slow down, breathe deep, and savor every moment.
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Benimaurell
Situated amidst the undulating landscapes of La Vall de Laguar, Benimaurell is a gem that sparkles with a rich cultural heritage. Its origins are steeped in stories of ancient civilizations, and its streets bear witness to epochs gone by. In times past, Benimaurell served as an essential crossroad for traders and travelers, a nexus where diverse cultures met, exchanged, and coexisted.
Modern-day Benimaurell is a mosaic of history and contemporary life. Its skyline is punctuated with historic towers, remnants of fortifications that once protected its residents from external threats. These architectural marvels now stand alongside newer structures, embodying the town’s evolution over time. Benimaurell’s location, cradled by mountains and overlooking lush valleys, offers a respite from the hustle and bustle, making it an ideal haven for those seeking peace and inspiration.
Best time to visit: Spring and Fall, when the weather is mild and the landscape is in full bloom.
Map of Marina Alta Activities
Best Hiking Trails in La Vall de Laguar
This region of Costa Blanca is a paradise for people who love to spend their time enjoying the bliss of the wonderful nature of Spain. Whether you choose hiking trails on the coast of Marina Alta or inland, you are on top of the game. It doesn’t mean that the best walking routes around Benidorm in Marina Baixa are worse, but Marina Alta as a region is on a totally another level, and La Vall de Laguar is not an exception but rather a rule.
One of the most famous trails, this route lets hikers witness the ‘Hell’s Gorge’ up close. The trail stretches approximately 14 km/8.7 mi and offers panoramic views of cascading waterfalls, ancient Moorish terraces, diverse local flora, and the so-called “La Catedral of Senderismo” (eng. “The Cathedral of Hiking”).
PR-CV 181 Cavall Verd
The PR-CV 181 Cavall Verd trail, often referred to as “The Watchman’s Pathway,” is a journey steeped in legend and natural beauty. This moderate-level hike stretches approximately 12 km / 7.5 mi, leading adventurers through a mosaic of landscapes that define the Marina Alta region.
The trail’s name, Cavall Verd, translates to ‘Green Horse,’ and is said to be named after the silhouette of the mountain that resembles a horse’s back. Local lore also speaks of vigilant watchmen who, during times of conflict, would use these heights to spot impending threats from afar.
Spanning roughly ±14 km/8.5 mi, this trail gives a comprehensive view of the entire valley. Hikers pass through dense forests, orchards, and traditional Spanish hamlets, soaking in the essence of La Vall de Laguar.
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Fontilles Viewpoint Trail
Ideal for those looking for a light trek, this 6 km/3.7 mi trail culminates at a viewpoint overlooking the Fontilles Sanatorium. The trail meanders through aromatic herb patches and provides opportunities for bird-watching.
How to Get to La Vall de Laguar
Reaching La Vall de Laguar is a journey as rewarding as the destination itself, with scenic routes offering glimpses of the Spanish countryside’s charm.
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By Car
Setting out from Alicante on the A-70, the cityscapes gradually give way to coastal vistas as you merge onto the AP-7 towards Valencia. Take exit 62, and the N-332 briefly teases with coastal charm before guiding you onto the CV-729 towards Orba. From there, the winding CV-721 weaves through the countryside, culminating in the welcoming embrace of La Vall de Laguar, where the heart of the town offers ample parking.
By Bike
For the more adventurous, biking to La Vall de Laguar provides an exhilarating experience. There are several bike rental shops in nearby cities like Alicante and Denia. The route, while hilly, offers cyclists a chance to immerse themselves in the region’s natural beauty. Ensure you have a map or GPS, as some trails can be less straightforward.
When I visited La Vall de Laguar for the first time it was a big surprise, and love, almost, from the first sight. Seldom do you find such a relatively easy area to access, yet so mesmerizing with its sheer beauty and the strong aura of remoteness. Of course, the inland parts of Marina Alta like La Val de la Gallinera share those feats, but it is much harder to access as it often requires a dedicated day, while La Vall de Laguar’s location in a relative proximity to the access to the A7 highway, making this area a much more flexible option for a visit.
Another great feature of La Vall de Laguar is its space planning resulting in decent facilities. Unfortunately, you won’t find a public WC but, at least, parking won’t be a problem. Furthermore, the hiking trails are marked really well, and you’ll find plenty of information in English together with the usual local languages Valencian and Castellano.
All things combined, I think La Vall de Laguar makes a perfect peaceful getaway from the ever-busy coast of Costa Blanca and Costa del Azahar. Not only it is a picturesque adventure but it offers an escape into the tranquil yet unsung nature of Spanish mountains. No matter how many friends I have brought to these areas, they were highly impressed by the pristine beauty of it. I wonder if the close proximity to the overpopulated coast gives an extra charm to the immediate pearls of the inland due to the high contrasts. One way or another, La Vall de Laguar makes a perfect destination for anyone who wants to experience Marina Alta by heart and to its fullest.
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Without a doubt, Marina Alta is the most beautiful region of Costa Blanca. It wouldn’t surprise me if it was ranked right there at the top on a hypothetical factual “the most beautiful Mediterranean coastlines of mainland Europe”. There is no such list but what I’m trying to say – Marina Alta is exceptionally beautiful. You might not have heard of it but sure you have heard of Ibiza and Balearic Islands? Marina Alta is the part of Spain between the gulf of Valencia and the gulf of Alicante, which is the closest point to these iconic Spanish islands. I would argue that the cliffs and some of the beaches are just as beautiful as in the islands. One way or another, any of the best hikes in Marina Alta could be a very pleasant surprise.
Due to the beauty and magic of its landscape, Marina Alta was densely populated by Iberian Culture from about 8th century BC. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Geography & Geology
The direct translation of Marina Alta from Spanish to English is the “high port”, as an opposition to the nearby Marina Baixa, or the “low docks”, the region surrounding Benidorm. The name of Marina Alta could be easily explained by geography and geology. The region is located on the southernmost edge of mainland Spain, which has raised from the sea millions of years ago, when the Eurasian plate collided with the African one. This massive event led to the genesis of many mountains in Europe, but the closest to the point of origin are the Betic Mountains, with Marina Alta located on one end of it. The other being nothing else but famous Gibraltar and Betic Mountains dominating the scenery of the whole landscape in-between in one way or another.
As Phoenicians themselves noticed in ancient times, Betic Mountains is more or less the area between the Western Rock (Gibraltar) and the Eastern Rock (Penon de Ifach). Technically, the latter one being a part of Marina Alta but since I wrote about climbing Penon de Ifach so much, this hiking route will escape the list at least for now. Despite that, the famous Cape rock adds to the region of Marina Alta, which is simply could be called a hikers’ paradise.
Calla del Moraig – Calla del Llebeig (Los Acantilados)
Los Acantilados hike is probably the most popular outdoor destination in the area for the high and exceptionally beautiful beaches: Cala del Moraig and Cala Llebeig. The first one is a very popular attraction on its own, offering very unique geological formations, and the latter one is a pristine remote fishing beach, straight out from a postcard. They are connected via the Los Acantilados hike, which a semi-easy walk amid very high cliffs. The route offers majestic views all the way. If you can deal with some steps, the heights, and the crowds, this could be easily the hike to pursue in Marina Alta.
From left to right: Cap de la Nao, La Granadella, Morro Falqui & Falla del Moraig. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Though the official hiking trail of Los Acantilados goes past Cala Llebeig back upwards the mountain, there is no reasonable option to make it a circle route. I did not find it to be a major problem as the views are equally stunning in both directions. The hiking trail goes along the cliffs, somewhere in a midst of it. This gives an illusion of being somewhere remote in nature, though in reality the cliff is heavily urbanized just above your head. Along Los Acantilados you’ll find a few remote hermit houses, used to shelter animals by shepherds almost 100 years ago.
While the hiking trail between the two beaches is relatively short, it is not possible to quickly cruise through the whole route. Parts of the hike require extra attention due to the narrow passages by the steep cliffs. The final section of the hike gives breath-taking views of Cala Llebeig, but descending to the beach might be not for everybody. Climbing back up will literally going to take your breath away.
The descend to Calla Llebeig might be not for everybody, but the viewpoint itself is worth the hike. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cova dels Arcs
Los Acantilados might be the most sought hiking trail in Marina Alta, but it doesn’t define everything this gorgeous corner has to offer. At the edge of Cala dėl Moraig lies a beautiful cave – Cova dels Arcs. It has a few entrances forming a spider-like rock sculpture Cova dels Arcs is a perfect example of what happens when a continental karst system goes underwater. Today, this exceptional geological formation is a symbol of the Valencian coastline and challenges Los Acantilados for the top tourist destination in Benitachell.
Another interesting geological formation found right next to Cala del Moraig and Cova dels Arcs is Falla del Moraig. You can access it on a short 15-min walking trail (marked pink) right from Cala del Moraig. Many people mistake this hiking route with Los Acantilados, thus be sure to check the hiking map, I provided above.
Though Falla del Moraig resembles a phallus, the word “falla” stands for a fault, because this geological formation is a good example of a normal fault line. This creative term describes a crack within the earth, where the upper block slides down relative to the block below. These kinds of slides are possible causation of earthquakes. The gap between geological blocks formed because waves of the Mediterranean eroded the lower part of the upper block and the rock have collapsed. It is possible to see the continuation of this fault line on the other side of Cala del Moraig.
Los Acantilados hikign trail begins at the parking of Cala Moraig not the beach itself. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cala Barraca – Cap Prim Hike
A hike to an exceptionally beautiful narrow piece of nature pressed to the very edge of high cliffs by countless fancy mansions. Cap Prim (eng. Prim Cape) is a very tip of a larger peninsula of mainland Spain – the closest point to the Balearic islands. That explains both the reason why it attracts so many rich people and the awe-inspiring views of a landscape, which is more similar to a south Asian than a European one. The people are not the only inhabitants of Cap Prim. Many bird species find this narrow piece of land as their home, which is still dwarfed by the colonies living on the Island of Portixol that dominates the scenery throughout most of the time during this wonderful hike.
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The Cap Prim is a real paradise on the edge of the Betic Mountains, whose high cliffs dip into the Mediterranean. The close encounter of mountains and sea sculpted out this majestic landscape throughout the endless years and today – to put it bluntly – it is absolutely stunning. Cap Prim is a true hidden secret as there not much information on the Internet but once you are in the area, something naturally draws you there. As my experience has shown me, this is that kind of hike, which literally sucks you in. A real step-turner, if you pardon the pun. It doesn’t matter, where you’d start the route, you’ll end up in Cap Prim.
Though accidentally I walked to Cap Prim from Cala Blanca (3.94 km / 2.45 mi), I intended and recommend doing so via the official route. You could either start at Cala Barraca (3.67 km / 2.28 mi) or Creu de Portixol (2.14 km / 1.33 mi). Though have in mind that the latter one has very limited parking options, and getting to Cala Barraca might be not an option for less experienced drivers. If you have time, hiking from Cala Blanca is still a very viable option.
Torre de Vigia Walking Trail (El Portet Beach – Cap d’Or)
The climb up to the watchtower of Cap d’Or (eng. d’Or Cape) is an hour-long hike, beginning at El Portet Beach in Moraira, which is an outstanding travel destination on its own. The first part of the hike leads through some fancy estates, facing the Mediterranean but soon the road leads into the protected areas of micro-reserve. From there on, the rich history of this small area unveils itself. Besides the expected watchtower, Cap d’Or houses an ancient Iberian settlement and a prehistoric cave. Thanks to a recent infrastructure investment all these places could be reached on foot. At the end of the day, the climb to the Watchtower of Cap d’Or is a magical experience. Let alone the views of the Mediterranean or El Portet beach, but the cape has a positive aura attached to it.
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La Cova de les Cendres (eng. Cendra Cave) is considered to be one of the most important archeological sites in the Iberian Peninsula. The cave was inhabited since the prehistoric times some 20,000 years ago to the Neolithic period 8,000 years ago (The final stage of the Stone Age, characterized by domesticated animals and crops).
The trail down to the Cendra Cave a recent addition as a part of the renewal project of Torre de Vigia walking trail. Making it a good choice for either history fans or off-beaten path adventurers. The trail has a few but very steep steps. It leaves me wondering about the toughness of the prehistoric people – one thing is to descend to or ascend from the cave, but keeping cattle over there?
Caves facing the Mediterranean with an evidence of the prehistoric people are found across the coastline of Marina Alta. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cap d’Or
The name of d’Or Cap translates into the Golden Cape, which is associated with the Sun Cult of the Iberian Culture. It is the same word from the infamous “matador”, or “atoreador” from bullfighting, which possibly derived from some ancient Iberian ritual of sacrificing a bull to the Golden Sun.
At the foot of the 16th watchtower of Cap d’Or, lies the ruins of ancient Iberian town. It is not the first such archeological site in the Province of Alicante that gives this energized feeling. Like many ancient cultures, Iberians chose magic places for their settlements or sacred places, based on the movements of the Sun or constellations. Given the rich scenery visible from the top of Cap d’Or: Penon de Ifach, Sierra de Bernia, Sierra de Gelada, and even Puig Campana, I imagine the whole calendar could be laid-out on the horizon.
From left to right: Penon de Ifach, Sierra Gelada, Sierra Bernia & Puig Campana. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Hiking Granadella
Luckily for us, the Granadella Forest Park area for some reason was left uninhabited, making it one of only two such areas by the coast of Marina Alta. (The other one is, of course, the natural park of El Montgo). Though this park is labeled as a forest, almost no trees are here today. The reason behind this is the terrible wildfires in 2016 that completely devastated vast areas between Javea and Granadella. Remember that most such wildfires are caused by people, so if you chose to hike during a dry season, be extra careful with fire.
Today, despite being nothing exceptional compared to the famous Park in Marina Alta – El Montgo, being uninhabited alone makes the area around Granadella special. The reason is the possibility to find traces of the original flora and fauna here, which is very rare on the coastline in Marina Alta. To be honest, across the whole country. Among the interesting fauna that you might encounter are hedgehogs, dormice and beetles. You might be not lucky enough to spot these but I’m sure that across the hike you’ll encounter various species of plants and birds like larks, serins, and swallows.
Tip: Note that this area lacks shade, so it is better to come early or in the evening.
Granadella beach hike is going to unveil most of this unique green space has to offer. The hike will start from urbanización located by the foot of Mount Llorenca and will lead you through a plateau with some ravines. The road will slowly take you towards the cliffs with beautiful vistas of the Mediterranean and Granadella Beach itself. Though the descent to the sea level is relatively steep it is not dangerous at all like in some other hikes on the list. Unfortunately, the beach could be reached by car as well, so it won’t feel as remote as some other places. The upside of this is a couple of cozy restaurants and water sports gear rent. The hike should be perceived as a semi-circular trail in a green area by the sea anyway. Access to Granadella Beach on the midway is just a bonus. It is a perfect option if you are not sure if you want to spend a day in nature or by the beach.
Mount Montgo Massif homes the largest natural park in Marina Alta. Located between the two most populous towns in the region – Denia and Javea – Montgo Nature Park is a naturally popular location for hiking. It has the biggest variety of different difficult routes, and probably is the best destination for a decent outdoors challenge.
Key features
High cliffs
Large green areas
Variety of hikes
Mount Montgo massive faces the Mediterranean forming giant cliffs along the coast. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Denia – Cova Tallada Hike
This is a very rewarding, semi-short but a bit difficult hike for inexperienced outdoors people. To most of us, it would be an easy walk in a park without a need for a map but due to the high traffic of visitors, the route becomes a bit more dangerous than it should, so you must be careful of other people’s actions. Otherwise, it is an enjoyable walk along the cliffs, facing the Mediterranean with a few steps and narrow passages with chains.
Key features
Cova Tallada cave system
Mount Montgo high cliffs
Good snorkeling
Cliff diving
Kayaking alternative
The entrance to Cova Talada is hidden down a small cliff, just above the Mediterranean. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Hike details
Location: Montgo Natural Park
Starting Location: Denia
Target Location: La Cova Tallada
Distance: 1km / 0.62mi x2
Ascend: Flat (~80 m / 260 ft)
Type: Linear
Duration: 30-40min x2
Difficulty: Intermediate
Color: Yellow
Despite all the obstacles, the hike to Cova Tallada is a wonderful destination to an inland rocky island paradise. Though the red route itself won’t take a lot of your time – be prepared to spend a better half of a day there. Cova Tallada is a beautiful cave system surrounded by pristine Mediterranean water, small islets, and giant cliffs. This spectacular landscape is a great place for a picnic, snorkeling, cliff diving, reading a book, or simply contemplating your thoughts. Just be sure to wear a good pair of hiking boots, take water shoes, and pick up all your trash.
Have in mind that the described Cova Tallada hiking route starts from the Denia side of Mount Montgo Natural Park. Though it is possible to hike to the cave from the Javea side, this is the easiest way to do so. If you want more information on this particular route, you can read my detailed guide of hiking from Denia to Cova Tallada.
The name of Playa de Pope comes after a Russian Orthodox priest, who used to come to bathe in this beach. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Sant Antoni Cape Hike
This short hike from the port of Javea to Cap Sant Antoni (eng. Saint Anthony Cape) is just the first steps of the longer hiking trail all the way up to Mount Montgo – PR-CV 355 Port Xàbia-Montgo. Regardless of it, the hiking route stands out on its own as a worthy walk. The climb up to the lighthouse of Cap Sant Antoni is not that challenging but rewarding in different ways. To be more precise, the hiking route has spectacular views of the beaches of Javea, Mount Montgo, Portixol Island, and Cap Prim. Possibly the most impressive part of the hike is the local vegetation, which just seems to be greener than everywhere else. All things considered, the Cap Sant Antoni hike is an easily accessible and rewarding hiking destination.
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From my own experience of hiking in Marina Alta, I would consider Port Javea – Cap Sant Antoni hiking trail to be the least demanding one. The whole route is a gradual climb up the cliff without any major obstacles ensuring maximum pleasure. Even more so, this straight-up-forward hike doesn’t have any really dangerous passages, thus it is a viable option for more experienced families. I’ve seen many people walking their dogs on this hiking route and I can’t blame them. If I was living in Javea and had a dog – I would probably do the same.
Once you get on top of Cap Sant Antoni don’t forget to visit all viewpoints to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Javea Bay and beyond while doing so. I wouldn’t recommend going off the official route as things might get ugly rather quickly. Along with Sant Antoni lighthouse, you’ll find remains of the past eras. Though I haven’t found any information on this, I’m sure Cap Sant Antoni was inhabited by humans since the deep stone age.
There is not much to say – getting on the top of Mount Montgo is the ultimate challenge in Marina Alta. The only question is how you want to do it. The route I chose is not the shortest, but still doable within a day, and the upside is that the climb from Jesus Pobre is not as steep as the alternative options. Neither route is recommended for less experienced hikers. Climbing mountains is very rewarding but the hike itself might be tough and not as interesting as the amazing alternatives in Marina Alta I mentioned before. Nevertheless, Mount Montgo will open breath-taking views to those who dare to challenge it.
During the hike, be sure to appreciate the walls of an ancient Iberian town – La Penya de l’Àguila, which dates as far as to the 5th century BC.
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Since Marina Alta is the easternmost part of mainland Spain, the main roads tend to cut this beautiful “corner”. While most of the region could be easily accessed, getting to the coastline of Marina Alta is not as simple as anywhere else in the Province of Alicante. Given that, the quality of the local roads is very good compared to the other regions due to the richness of the area.
You can reach Marina Alta by either AP-7 Autopista Mediterraneo (eng the Mediterranean Motorway), or the lesser N-332, which will get you just a bit closer to the heartland of Marina Alta. Either way, you need to look for Benissa or Teulada (CV-740) – the main gateways to the rest of the region. Both can only be accessed from N-332, thus you’ll need to enter it from AP-7 first to get any further.
Pro tip: From 2021, most of AP-7 in Marina Alta is free.
Without a doubt, Marina Alta is the most beautiful part of a really attractive Costa Blanca. The same case could be made not only for the Valencian Community but for the whole coastline of the Spanish mainland of the Mediterranean. Having that in mind, I must admit that it was not a love from first sight for me. Most of Costa Blanca is massively urbanized and almost exclusively for ex-pats and tourists. As a result, it is even hard to find that desired temperament of Spanish culture in the area. Of course, there is one upside to that – you’ll find communicating in English around these areas much easier than in most of Spain.
Having all that in mind, it took me a while to learn to see all the prettiness of the region through the crowds of tourists and ex-pat houses. What did I find? Exceptionally beautiful landscape, where mountains meet the sea. Marina Alta has everything a true nature lover desires. Traveling through Marina Alta’s inland and coastal areas made me wonder what the whole landscape looked like without all the urbanization, especially during the magic times of the Iberian Culture. These people chose Marina Alta and the surrounding landscape as their home for a reason and so do thousands of people today.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Having traveled all the Mediterranean coastline of mainland Spain (except for some parts of Catalonia), without a second of thought, I would rank Marina Alta as one of the top 3 regions in the country by the sea, only falling behind Maro-Cerro Gordo Cliffs in Costa Tropical, where some of the tallest mountains in Europe, Sierra Nevada meet the Mediterranean. As far as I’m concerned, many parts of inland Marina Alta, keep up to this high standard, making it a truly mesmerizing and exceptional part of Spain.
One might wonder, what’s so special about Marina Alta? First of all, it is rather green. Especially given the rather dry and arid neighborhood this is clearly visible after entering the area. Second, as the name suggests (eng. High Port), the terrain of Marina Alta is very mountainous. As a matter of fact, it is one end of the Baetica Mountains system, which has famous Gibraltar on the other end of it. These mountains shape Marina Alta from the dramatic cliffs on the coastline to mesmerizing small towns entangled in-between the difficult landscape of inland of the region. To put it simply, every part of Marina Alta is worth anybody’s time exploring it. So, if you find yourself spending your vacation in one of the popular coastline towns in Marine Alta like Denia, Javea, or Calpe, a day trip to the inland of the region would be a great idea to diversify your holiday time in Costa Blanca.
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This part of Marina Alta’s countryside is located in the Province of Alicante, entangled between tall mountains and peaceful valleys. The landmarks of the route are interconnected by their historical ties, which will help us to uncover the secrets of various sites from the past and their remote yet exceptionally beautiful locations and local crafts. This route includes some of my favorite parts of Marina Alta inland – there are very few places, where history, mountains, and sea are combined in such a balanced harmony.
Pego is a great example of how the success of a town in Marina Alta depends on its symbiosis with the natural environment. For such a humble town, Pego has a lot to show – you can visit the Ecce-Homo Chapel, the saint of the municipality, the Parish Church of Asuncion with the beautiful Plaza of Townhall nearby, and the Franciscan Convent – these are only the religious sites of Pego. The cultural ones include the Museum of Contemporary Art, the culture center house, and the ethnological museum, which is dedicated to the growth of rice. The most famous landmark in the town is the natural park of Marjal de Pego-Oliva. It is one of the major biodiversity areas in the Mediterranean and the location of the cultivation of rice, that so many people in Pego rely on.
The marsh of Pego-Oliva was granted a natural park status in 1994. These are vast areas of wetlands situated between the edge of the Baetic Mountains, between the Provinces of Alicante and Valencia, and the town of Pego and Oliva, respectively. Its 12 ha are covered by reedbeds, ricefields, and lagoons, all of which are interconnected by various rivers and canals, which results in the area of great natural wealth and productivity. The excellent water quality is not only suitable for endangered species, like Whiskered Tern, the Valencian tooth carp, the marbled teal, and the European pond turtle but in fact, maintains the best-preserved underwater vegetation in all of Spain.
Some say Absudia is among the most beautiful towns in the inland of Marina Alta, but it is Forna Castle that makes this area popular. The name of the town comes from Arabic word meaning “the hermitage”, it obviously shows its Moorish origins, though the oldest archeological evidence of settlement dates back to the Bronze Age, probably of Iberian origin. During the visit, be sure to dedicate some time to explore white Moorish narrow streets of Adsubia, it is the main highlight of the town itself. Some notable landmarks include Church of Saint Vincent Ferrer , a town hall and a public loundry building of Adsubia.
Meanwhile Forna almost couldn’t be more different. Its rich Christian heritage is highlighted by the Templar castle of Forna. Both the town and the castle are in surprisingly good state. In Forna you can also visit Canalobres cave and do some hiking in the nearby mountainous setting. In short, the two towns prooves the very rich variety of both landscape and culture in a very narrow area of Marina Alta.
The valley is separated into eight different urban areas: Benirrama, Beniali, Benissiva, Benitaia, la Carroja, Alpatro, Llombai, and Benissili. Together they form sort of a township on the inner-outer edge of Marina Alta and inter-connecting on an ancient road between Denia and an old capital, Xativa. The Vall de la Gallinera offers truly spectacular panoramic views to its visitors. The idyllic scenery of rural harmony with remote houses in-between cherries, olives, almonds, carrobs and orange trees, and other woods and fields of whom the area is most famous for the first two. The Vall de la Gallinera is proud to be the first area in the whole of Europe to produce cherries every year. The deep agricultural traditions are carved into the surrounding tall stone walls of mountains, forming beautiful terraces and defining the romantic picture of the Vall de la Gallinera. For a brief moment, one could be forgiven for mistaking this exceptional scenery for one of Southeast Asia.
A visit to the Vall d’Alcala will bring you backward in time. You’ll be surprised by the ingenuity of its past visitors. Vall d’Alcala is famous for its Moorish past. In the area, you’ll find two very well-preserved but old refrigerated areas, which served as refrigerators for the people of the past. Another popular tourist destination is L’Atzuvieta – probably the best conserved Moorish village in the Valencian Community. Despite these interesting historical relics, Al-Azraq is the most famous thing to come out of the Vall d’Alcala. The legendary Arab leader was born in the municipality of Alcala de la Jovada, which he loved and fought for against Jaime I. Al-Azraq died in the battle of Alcoy in April 1276, giving birth to one of the most famous festivities in this part of Spain – Moros and Cristianos (Moors and Christians). To this day, it is celebrated in most of the towns in Marina Alta.
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Vall d’Ebo
It is a location of exceptional natural beauty, defined by its picturesque sites like natural pools, potholes and the Barranc del Infern. Above all of them, undoubtedly, the most interesting landmark is Cova del Rull, where you can embrace the beauty of various stalagmite and stalactite formations. There is also Ethnological Museum situated in the area.
Unfortunately, the natural beauty of Vall d’Ebo is still in recovery after the devastating wildfires of 2022. About 12,150 hectares of vegetation were destroyed in a perimeter of 100 km / 62 mi. The number of these wildfires is increasing every year due to increasing days of drought.
Route 2: El Verger – Ondara – Beniarbeig – La Rectoria
Distance: 12 km / 7.45 mi
The connection between these towns and the raison d’etre of this route is Sierra de Segaria – a beautiful mountain range covering 94 000 sq. m with its tallest peak reaching 504 m / 1 653.54 ft. It might sound not that much, but given that the mountain is located 6 km / 3.73 mi from the sea, Sierra de Segaria is one of the most notable landmarks on the coastline of Marina Alta. The mountain separates two beautiful valleys: the Valle de Gallinera and the valley of River Girona.
The evidence and traces found of a major Iberian settlement in this area with the largest portion of the ruins belonging to the municipality of Benimeli. In fact, most of the archaeological remains were found on the hillside close to this town. I expect that the sea level was much closer to Sierra de Segaria 2 500 years ago when the Iberian culture flourished.
El Verger
Being another town on the list of Muslim origins, El Verger remained so even after the Christian conquest. Only after the expulsion of Moriscos, the town had to be repopulated by Christians from Denia, Pego, and Balearic islands. Until modern times, the economy of El Verger was always agriculture. Given its humble history, the town still has something to offer. The points of interest worth attention are the Tower of Duke Medinaceli’s Palace, the Parish Church from 1732, and the Moorish Cremadella Tower dating as far back as the XIII-XIV centuries. While it is situated right next to Sierra Segaria, the most interesting natural feature of El Verger is the all-year-flowing river Girona.
Given the history of the town, it is probably not surprising that the biggest festivity in El Verger is Moros and Cristianos. Other include celebrations in honor of San Roque, San Isidro, and Virgen del Rosario. All are held in August.
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Ondara
Except for Sierra de Segaria, the entire territory of Ondara is practically flat. The foot of this mountain is where we find the earliest footprints of human inhabitants, the Iberians, but it was Muslims who left the biggest fingerprints in Ondara, most notably the irrigation system. After they were expelled in 1609, the area was settled by the Christian people from the Balearic Islands. In the XIX century, Ondara saw growth and restructuration to become a town with a wide variety of services that we know today.
During your trip, be sure to visit the clock tower, locally known as “Torre del Reloj”. It is part of an old Moorish Castle, which had four such towers but only this one remained to see the modern times. The other points of interest are the XVII century Nunnery, the Parish Church from the XVI century, and the in-famous bullring, the only one in the region.
The food traditions in Ondara are very typical for the region combined with the Mediterranean diet and a wide variety of tapas. In July, the town celebrates two important local festivals: one in honor of Virgen de la Soledad (Eng “Loneliness”) and the popular Saint Jaume. Another important festivity in town takes place in November, Ondara Trade Fair, which dates back to 1690.
Beniarbeig
A town of Moorish origins, its more archaic Arabic name was Beniherbey. Today, it is almost just history. After the expulsion of the Moors and later Moriscos, Beniarberg, like most of the settlements in the Valencian Community, fell into a population crisis. Unfortunately, it took much more time for the town to recover than the others. It was repopulated by the Christians only in the 1950s by the people from Andalucia and La Mancha, who were looking for an opportunity. Situated at the foothill of Sierra de Segaria, Beniarberg is surrounded by cultivated orange, almonds, and olive trees. Its urbanization is situated around the main street of Calle Mayor. The parish church of Beniarberg dates back to the XVII century but the most distinctive feature of the town is the all-year constant flow of water in the river Girona. It provides good conditions not only for human settlers but for various species of waterfowl.
La Rectoria
This area of Marina Alta is composed of 5 towns: Sanet y Negrals, Benimeli, El Rafol de Almunia, Sagra, and Tornos. All these peaceful villages share a few things in common: Arab farmsteads’ origins, landscape, and fertile lands. The name “La Rectoria” comes from a religious division that formed after the dismemberment of the rectory of Denia, putting many people of religious service in urgent need of housing. Today, the villages that too in those people form a community.
Situated between two natural marvels of Marina Alta, Sierra de Segaria, and the ever-flowing River Girona, La Rectoria enjoys very fertile land and irrigation systems from the past, making this region perfect for agriculture. One will find many vegetables, and fruits with a specialization in citrus.
Widely associated with various trades and crafts, Gata de Gorgos is a perfect place if you are in need of furniture, decoration, basketry, or traditional food for a very good quality/price ratio. In fact, it is one of the places, known in Spain as “a town of artisans”. These are no mere words, since immemorial times in Gata de Gorgos people have used palms for the craftmanship of baskets and hats. Later, it developed into other industries – at first to various furniture, and later to pottery, ceramics, and glass – creating a local crafts powerhouse.
In the urban center of Gata de Gorgos be sure to visit the XVII century Parish Church of San Miguel and wander through irregular shape streets in the suburb of the Islamic tradition cornered against the Gorgos River. The town houses two permanent sculpture parks as well.
In terms of food, the traditional cocas are the biggest highlight in Gata de Gorgos accompanied by a great variety of rice, stews, and casseroles.
With 7 600 inhabitants, Pedreguer is the most populous town on the list of this route. Big numbers are the most of what this town can be proud of but are not limited to. Pedreguer was first mentioned in 1249, a decade after Christians conquered the region of the territory of the current-day Valencian Community in 1238. Back then, the population of Pedreguer was mainly Islamic, therefore after the expulsion of the Moors in 1609, the town was left almost empty. It was repopulated by the people from the Balearic Islands and to this day the locals could notice particular peculiarities in their speech.
Pedreguer has a wide variety of industries including leather goods, hats, metal manufacturing for a small scale and farming. The best place to buy their craft could be the second-hand market Rastro, which is held every Sunday in the industrial area of Les Galgues.
Hikers should consider the 18 km / 11.18 mi stretch of PR-V53, a circular trail with different levels of difficulty.
Benidoleig
Benidoleig traces its origins to the times of the Moorish people. It was founded originally as one of the Arab farmhouses, installed in the valley of Girona. Benidoleig shares the fate of the region and the town experienced a downfall after the local Moriscos were expelled in 1609. Fortunately, it didn’t take long for the town to bounce back, Benidoleig was repopulated in 1611 by the people from Mallorca. Despite the population change, the design of the town didn’t change much. Its main economy remained agriculture, specializing in dry farming like raisins and citruses.
While in Benidoleig, don’t forget to visit the manor of Finestrat’s Baron, the Parish Church of Sangre de Cristo, and the main attraction in the whole area – Cueva de las Calaveras – 300 m / 984 ft in length and 20 m / 65.61 ft in a height cave system with beautiful domes filled with stalactites and stalagmites.
Orba is another old old town, whose first settlers date back to prehistory and for a good reason. It is situated in a fertile valley protected by mountains – a perfect storm for ancient people. Even the name of the town comes from the Iberian word “Ur-Obia” meaning “where water flows from the bottom of the mountain”, (Having in mind that the Iberian language is yet to be fully translated, I found it very fascinating). Despite Orba’s ancient roots, it was the Moorish conquerors, who based on their agricultural needs, shaped the landscape of the valley into what we know today.
For such a small town, there are quite a few things to do here. Be sure not to miss the parish church and the 16th-century manor house. Foodies shouldn’t miss the local sausages, bakery products, oranges, lemons, almonds, and oils. Orba is also great for souvenirs with its exquisite and authentic pottery and ceramics traditions dating from the Moorish times. The area is also great for hiking and cycling.
This part of Marina Alta consists of four settlements combining a single township, known as La Vall de Laguar. These villages are Benimaurell, Fleix, Campell and Fontilles. Situated deep in Marina Alta, the elevation of these settlements varies from 300 m / 984 ft to 437 m / 1435 ft above sea level. The remote geographical feature of La Vall de Leguar was a natural last stronghold of Valencian Moors after the expulsion in 1609.
Like almost anywhere else in Marina Alta, this area is great for hiking. Places like Barranc de L’Infern, traversed by Girona river, La Sierra del Penyo, or routes trespassing wells and natural springs like the Font del Reinos, Font dels Olbis, Font del Penyo, together with the fountains situated in each settlement.
Traditionally, agriculture was the main economy of the area, but today, it is domestic tourism that has become the main income for the locals. Some rainfed crops still remain, like olives, almonds, and cherry trees.
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Route 4: Vall de Pop
Distance: 25 km / 15.53 mi
The Vall de Pop is animated and fed by Gorgos River, also known as River Xalo, which flows from the mountains around Castell de Castells. The river runs through the towns of Benigembla, Murla, Parcent, and Alcalali, where the valley finally expands and we find Xalo, Lliber, Senija, and Benissa, next to the coastline. The Vall de Pop is an area of great variety: majestic mountains, winding ravines, picturesque grape fields, and coast with cozy coves and dramatic white cliffs.
The Vall de Pop is perfect for active tourism and recreational activities. It has a wide network of hiking trails, which is, undoubtedly, the best way to get the most out of the valley. Sierras de Bernia y Ferrer, la Serella y Xarta, and Gorgos River are the best locations for appreciating the local flora and fauna. Other popular activities include cycling, climbing, paragliding, and kayaking among many others. The Vall de Pop is one of those places, which has something to offer to everybody.
Cultural legacy in the valley goes as deep as it gets – straight to the dawn of humanity in Europe. Cave paintings in the sanctuary Del Pla de Petracos are a part of UNESCO World Heritage site of Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin on the Iberian Peninsula. Also, one can enjoy the rich heritage of Moors like castles and narrow cozy streets that rise and fall below and above dry stone buildings found virtually in every town of the Vall de Pop.
Situated deep in the Vall de Pop, right where the raison d’etre of the whole valley, River Gorgos originates, Castell de Castells feels to be separated from the rest of the world. While it is not the only place in the inland part of Marina Alta that has this feeling, this little cozy town at a privileged location clearly stands out.
The central piece of the town is the Parish Church of Saint Anna. Another important trace of the development of the human race as intelligent species is a set of cave paintings, known as Pla de Petracos and dating back about 8,000 years. Other popular tourist destinations around Castell de Castells, and good opportunities for hiking, are Moorish Castle Penya Castellet, Mount Malla de Llop (1,361 m / 4,365 ft), and Els Arcs, a naturally formed arcs, known as one of the biggest in the whole of Europe of its kind.
Interesting festivals include the lively San Vicente Ferrer, a cultural week starting July 22nd, featuring poetic evenings and traditional dance for all ages. On July 26th, people of the town honor Santa Ana, Castell de Castells’ patron saint, with a magical candlelit procession. But probably the most interesting festivity happens in early September, the enchanting Pla de Petracos fiesta unfolds under twinkling trees, offering music, food, and dancing all night long. The weekend culminates with an open-air paella feast as families come together to celebrate.
Known as the gateway to mountains, Parcent might be the best town for hiking in the whole of Marina Alta. All thanks to its perfect location, where Vall de Pop opens up from a narrow valley between mountains to wide relative lowlands. Nevertheless, probably the most interesting feature of the town is hidden in its name. Unlike most of the towns in Marina Alta, Parcent seems to have Latin origins (Persius or Percennius). It also took an important role in the Moorish rebellions as a Christian stronghold.
Interesting historical monuments include the 16th-century Parish Church of the Immaculate Conception. the house of Gabriel Miro, Cave Paintings of l’Abric del Seguili, the Moorish necropolis in Calle l’Era and a farmhouse from the same period. Popular hikes include Coll de Rates, Font de la Foia, Cim Carrascal, and Cova dels Coloms.
Alcalali
After the reconquest, King James I of Aragon donated Alcalali to Doña Berenguela Alonso de Molina in 1268, but the overseers of the town kept changing. It might have resulted in a rather humble town, but that’s why we love it today. The narrow white streets of Moorish design, The Church of the Nativity of Our Lady, the town hall, and the medieval tower of Alcalali, La Solana Castle – there are plenty of historical buildings to see in Acalali. Today, the town of Alcalali accounts only for one-fourth of the population of the township but the surrounding urbanizations and Llosa de Camacho inflates the numbers. The latter town had been absorbed by Alcalali in the 19th century.
During the spring, Alcalali is known as starting point of the hike through the majestic blooming almonds down the valley towards to Benissa. But that is not the only hike, accessed straight from the town. Situated by the foot of the mountain on the edge of the Vall de Pop, Acalali is perfect for the great outdoors.
The main festivals of the town are held on the 24th and 25th of June in honor of Saint Juan Bautista de Mosquera and the Holy Christ of Health, respectively.
The cradle of Muscat. It is no mere feat knowing that Muscat of Alexandria is considered to be the oldest genetically unchanged grape variety in the world. It was, probably, brought to Spain by Romans or even Carthaginians. Despite having many other cultures in a relatively big and fertile valley, wine very much defines not only the image of Xalo but of the whole Vall de Pop.
Every day, in traditional shops one can find local products like almonds, raisin grapes, honey, oranges, and oil, but Xalo is probably known most for its bodegas with a wide range of local DO wines and traditional liquor made of grapes, known as mistela. Other popular ‘souvenir’ foods from Xalo include various dry sausages and exquisite sweets. The best day to come to town for shopping is undoubtedly Saturday when people from across Marina Alta and beyond gather in Xalo for traditional market day.
Thanks to the fertile lands of Vall de Pop, one can enjoy a rich and diverse cuisine including some better-known various rice dishes, cocas, cous cous and local “espencat”, “minxos”, “la borreta de melva, “the putxero amb pilotes” and “mullador amb bull”.
Benissa
Last but not least, rather the opposite of that. Benissa is not only the most populous town in Marina Alta featured in this article but the fifth most populous in the region taking the coastal settlements as well. This accounts for about 11 thousand inhabitants, which is small but not by Marina Alta standards. Benissa is also one of the oldest towns in the region. Though, the name is of Moorish origins (Beni-Eyce, eng “Sons of Christ), the archeological finds suggest, at least, Roman trespassing in the area around the town.
Benissa houses a large Gothic Church, better known as “Catedral de la Marina”. Hopefully, that doesn’t need a translation or any further explanation. The town is also home to the Franciscan seminary and its old convent from 1645. Other historical points of interest include the square of Old Church, La Lonja, the Town Hall, Riverside figure, and many others.
Benissa enjoys its geographical location between the Mediterranean Sea and mountains. It is well reflected in its culture and kitchen. One of the signature dishes is Octopus stew, known as “Pulpo y mass”, while the town is also known for its sausages and cocas.
The main festivities include the icon “Moors and Christians”, which in Benissa is held on the weekend closest to June 29. Other, “more Christian” celebrations include the patron saint festivity dedicated to Immaculate Xiqueta on the last Sunday of April, and a fair in honor of Saint Anthony in January among others.
Most Popular Activities in Marina Alta
Dénia: Sunset Catamaran Cruise
Join us in Puerto Dénia for an unforgettable sunset catamaran cruise filled with music and cava!
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Everything is written in its name – Cova Tallada – translated from Valenciana language that would be the Carved Cave. This makes the cave not just another cave – sculpted out of a rock by water waves as it was some kind of bad-tasted contemporary art sculpture – the cave is man-made. This naturally raises a question why would somebody carve a cave not too far but not too close to the settlement nearby – Denia – to which Cova Tallada’s destiny was bounded from the very beginning and still holds to this day.
Despite Cova Tallada origins, its beauty is sought by lots of tourists and adventurers. So many that during the high season access to the cave had to be limited due to safety reasons. You see, from time to time some people tend to fall into Cova Tallada as they get ‘creative’ trying to take a selfie on the hole above the cave.
Difficulty: Easy/Moderate Depending on season and experience
Permit: Required between June 15 – September 30
Map of Costa Blanca Hikes
Despite all odds, I would easily rank hike to Cova Tallada among the best hikes in Costa Blanca. The route simply has so much to offer in such a short distance. If you can avoid the crowds, hiking to Cova Tallada is an absolutely must!
The Official Rules of Cova Tallada Hike
Stay in the cave no longer than 2 hours
Bring water in abundance
Proper footwear
Do not bring bulky and cumbersome objects
Do not run or shout
It is forbidden to:
Spending the night at the cave
Fishing and extracting any kind of species from the sea
The main thing everybody needs to understand before going to Cova Tallada is that all the warnings of danger are here due to the popularity of the hike. The route is nowhere close to being somehow exceptionally unsafe. All the fuss is just because the cave is not only popular among hikers but tourists as well thus the whole area gets really crowded. It is not a secret that the number of incidents increases with the number of visitors. The authorities are simply left with no other options once the tragic news get to the papers. Everything combined, my general advice – like during any other hike including steep slopes – the correct pace is always the safe pace. If you stick to this rule you will be all right. Let the idiots alone increase the incident roll.
The route itself is hard to describe, it doesn’t fit into any basic category. Physically – the walk is not difficult because it is very short but technically – the story is a bit different. With good shoes and some experience, many would mark the hike as easy though that totally doesn‘t do the justice to actually easy hikes. The best way to prepare for the hike would be to follow me through this article and decide it yourself because it really depends on your own skills and equipment.
My Recommended Gear
Water shoes
Good hiking shoes for steep Rock climbing
Extra: If you like snorkeling, be sure to take your gear along
Denia – Cova Tallada Yellow Route
The first challenge of the hike is to find the beginning of the route. It should not be a problem if you are reading this article because I have already linked the coordinations on Google Maps.
From the start of the yellow route to Cova Tallada to Mirador las Rotas the road is relatively civilized and the only way to get hurt is to get ‘creative’. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsSome people tend to miss it but just before Mirador Las Rotas there are small steps down to continue the road toward Cova Tallada. When in doubt – always look for yellow route markings. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe view from Mirador Las Rotas, Denia. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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This is where the walk might get a bit tricky from time to time but if sightseeing and walking are not done at the same time everybody should be just fine. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Formation of Montgo Massif – Precursor to Cova Tallada
Cova Tallada is located at the edge of Montgo Massif, which arose from the depths some 70 million years ago when continent plates of Europe and Africa were making love pretty hard. No surprise, passing through this place is not easy; but without it there would be no places like this beautiful cave.
From here on Cova Tallada is just behind two passages across hill cliffs, which I suggest walking extra-carefully. The basic rule is to let everybody from in front to pass the difficult part first because you never know, which passer-by might be a hot-headed idiot, who will use any given possibility to push you off the cliff.
Pro tip: In case somebody enters a difficult range while you are on it, just stop on the safe side and let them pass on the outside. They chose to put you in a dangerous situation so let them do the walking.
The valley between the passages is less stressful but since the path is very popular – most of the rocks are ground almost as if it was done by a jeweler – thus might get a bit slippery with the wrong footwear. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe second passage doesn‘t include steps but it is quite narrow, just stick to the rules I posted above and you’ll be fine. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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Just before the hike turns into a rock climbing session, the road goes around a small gulf with Cova Tallada almost visible behind the next corner. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Getting Into Cova Tallada
Once you get to this sign ‘the walk in a park’ is over. To access the cave you have two options with neither of them being very simple. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe official route goes down this road where you’ll have to take out your hands out of your pockets or if you are cool – take the risk of falling somewhere, hurting something. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
At this point, some of you might be already thinking – ‘I’m taking the second route’ but don’t be so quick to judge. The second option does not include the rock climbing session but instead requires hiking a bit further, descending from a way gentler cliff on unofficial route, fording to an islet nearby, crossing the islet (which is a total pain without water shoes) and swimming to the cave.
Needless to say which route I took. After walking through the razor-sharp surface of the islet, cursing my flip-flops without stopping, I found myself only dozen meters away from Cova Tallada with the only obstacle being the sea.
Cautiously I took my steps forward, getting deeper and deeper, toward the uncharted underworld. The same moment my eyes got below the surface of salty seawater, that world revealed itself to me. Everything changed instantly – like midday to midnight. For a moment, I forgot everything that I left above and swam deeper into this alien planet. Escorted by flocks of fish, I was navigating between giant rocks. They were like huge houses to other lifeforms, who were all carefully observing this unseen explorer tirelessly trying to reach his goal. Avoiding jellyfishes, somehow I reached the shallow waters, where crabs took the race for their lives just before I ascended above them to enter Cova Tallada.
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Even though there was no thought process behind the decision, I don’t regret taking the second option. I had no idea about the first one until I swam to the cave just to find the entrance from the surface. I was quite surprised how all of these people got to the cave with all this gear and food, and pets, while I was there barefoot only with a phone and a snorkel in my hands. Don’t take this as an encouragement to skip the water shoes part, this venture cost me five cuts on my toes and it could have been way worse if not for my thick skin.
LCova Tallada stretches from 15 meters in height to 75 meters in length but I imagine these numbers might not give the correct impression of the cave. An easier way to characterize the Carved Cave would be to compare it to a medium-sized flat, somewhere in the countryside near a sea.
There is an entrance at the end of a hallway which leads to the stairs you need to climb before getting out of here. The flat is on the base floor after all. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe hallway is connected to the main room which covers most of the total area. Acoustics are perfect here as the ceiling is astonishingly high. The dining room is combined with the room but due to ever-changing trends of design it is hard to notice where exactly the kitchen is. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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Few windows on the roof will keep the main room enlightened for most of the day. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThere is a terrace in the main room with a top-notch view. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe main problem with the flat is that the bathroom is located outside. Yes it includes a huge bath but when the weather is bad it might get annoying. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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…and last but not least is the beautiful sleeping room which is darker than other spaces of the flat – perfect for sleeping and other stuff. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsThe only illumination of the room is coming through several arches that are leading straight to the backyard where you’ll find plenty of space for your daily exercise. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsOverall the flat could maintain over a couple of hundred people though I wouldn’t signup for such a commune thus recommend visiting it off-season. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cova Tallada Secrets
The beautiful arches of the interior withstand all the bad weather for a reason. Apparently, the rocks are more robust at this location and the whole cave was carved out by the people from Denia. They used these rocks to build important buildings in the city, including the Castle of Denia. So if you still think this hike is dangerous or hard – imagine the people carrying these rocks the same distance – which is untrue, since it is way easier to do it by the sea. I’ll leave you with that.
From everything I’ve ever seen, there is only one place like legendary Gibraltar. Take away the strategic importance with its historical significance from Gibraltar, and add the remote beauty of the wild nature, you get Penon de Ifach. Located on the tip of Calpe City, it is separating the urban area’s beaches into two. Having in mind the Les Salines, a salt lagoon located in the middle of the city, the beauty of views from the top of Penon de Ifach is somewhat iconic on Instagram. This is certainly among the best things to do in Calpe and one of the best hikes near Benidorm, Costa Blanca overall.
Rising 332m above the sea level, which is right next to it, Penon de Ifach is a hard-to-miss wonder of nature of Costa Blanca. With a size of approx. 45 hectares or 62 soccer fields, the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach is the smallest regional park in Spain and one of the smallest in the whole of Europe. Nevertheless, it attracts more than 100,000 visitors each year. Due to its uniqueness, the rock creates many microhabitats perfect for rare specialized plants. If it is safe, be sure to smell various flowers growing around the path.
Penon de Ifach is also a nesting site for many birds and for that reason it has some path restrictions from 1st April to 30th June. Even though you can meet some of the semi-domesticated cats in the park, during the mating season, it is the sea birds which will drive you crazy with their catlike sounds for seducing a partner. No matter how many tourists come here, there are more seagulls than anybody else. It is their rock, respect that. Birds are not the only ones to appreciate Penon de Ifach, humans used the rock to navigate since prehistoric times. Today, Penon de Ifach marks the entrance to Marina Alta – the hikers’s paradise.
It is not surprising that I’m not the first to notice the similarity between Penon de Ifach and Gibraltar. Around 4.000 years ago, Phoenicians, the best sailors in the World at that time, called Gibraltar and Penon de Ifach – the Southern Rock and the Northern Rock, respectively. It served as a landmark for mariners ever since.
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From 4th to 3rd century BC, the rock was a place for Iberian settlement as it proved to be an outstanding strategic place to observe the shores of the surrounding areas and spot approaching pirates. But as technology advanced, the attacks from the sea became unbearable. Villagers had to move deeper into the land, somewhere where the modern Calp is.
For more than a century, the area of Penon de Ifach has been privately owned and only in 1987 it was declared a public regional park after the Generalitat Valenciana Authority bought it.
Calp is connected to any major city around. ALSA buses come and go from Valencia, Denia, Altea, Benidorm, and Alicante every day. You can find more information here: https://www.busbud.com/en/bus-calpe/c/snb5c5
By car – N-332 or AP-7 roads
Like most other coastal cities in the region, the easiest way to reach Calp by N-332 road. The main problem with this road is traffic. The road goes through every town where it runs into the traffic lights, roundabouts and all the other stuff you can imagine to find in urban areas.
Calp can be also reached by the Autopista del Mediterráneo, also known as AP-7, a tolled motorway running along the Mediterranean coast of Spain. If you approaching Calp from the South, exit AP-7 road to N-332 near Altea, or to Bonaire if you are coming from the North.
Parking at the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach
There are some parking spaces just next to the information center of the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach, but it seems to be closed. Instead use the parking down below, at the entrance to the park, or simply put the car anywhere in Calp and walk your way the information center of the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach, where the hike starts.
The hike could be divided into two parts: the First one being really easy and recommended for everyone passing by; And the second should be attempted only by those who are fit, know what they are doing and have a good pair of hiking boots.
The road quality, from the information center of the park to the rock, won’t change a bit. It is easy to walk and has plenty of places to take your breath and enjoy the amazing views. There are no steps just an uphill stone-grounded path.
Both parts of the hike are separated by a tunnel, which gives you a good taste of what is ahead in a safe manner. You’ll get to taste how good are your shoes for slippery stones and how comfortable you are holding onto the chains. Please note that there is no light in the tunnel. If you are afraid of the dark, I am sorry, but if you are afraid of the heights, enjoy while you can. Once you reach the light at the end of the tunnel, the steep cliffs down to the ocean won’t leave your sight for a second. From here on, the road up to Penon de Ifach will turn into a tough challenge for any regular person without any major experience in rock hiking.
The second half of the hike couldn’t be more different from the first one. Instead of a man-made path, the hike will continue on slippery rocks with some chains to hold on. The road is marked with red paint, but sometimes you should consider a safer option next to the main path. There are way fewer people after the tunnel on the road, but with time, the long-lasting rocks have seen a lot of them. The hikers had grinded the surface of the stone like it has spent most of its life in the ocean. The main tips for hiking to the top of Penon de Ifach goes as it follows:
High hiking shoes with a deep sole are really useful here;
Always look where to put your feet;
Enjoy the views only when standing still;
Leave enough time to climb down before it gets dark or take a headlight.
Where the road is narrow, let incoming people pass it first;
If you will continue walking with a hope that the road will get any easier – DON’T. The hike to the top of Penon de Ifach will remain challenging right up to the peak. And it won’t be a pleasant walk. You have to remain conscious of the high probability that any miss-step might result in bye-bye-your-life all the time.
I might be exaggerating a lot, but I’ve seen plenty of people on this hike who shouldn’t be there, and they didn’t look very happy. If you are one, I want to scare you away and save you some nerves. These days it is a common thing that people die trying to take a cool selfie or simply doing a hard hike trying to get to a beautiful vista. Some places are just simply not for everyone, but the motivation behind the possibility of rewarded attention on social media pushes some people beyond their capabilities. Personally, I enjoyed the hike a lot, I love climbing and hiking on rocks and it is really sad that after some misfortune incidents wonderful hikes like this gets closed.
Of course, the real tragedy is the loss of life which could be avoided if the people get informed correctly in front. Instead, there is not much official information to be found in English, which is substituted by some random comments on TripAdvisor. Something like “The hike was challenging but totally worth it”, could mean many things, one of them is that somebody after reading a comment like this won’t get home. Better safe than sorry, right? That is the reason for my description being so harsh. In short – be smart, take that Instagram selfie before the tunnel, and get back home in one piece.
This hike leads to the top of the rock 3xx meters above the sea level, which is next to it. Obviously, there is not much of a space for cafes or bathrooms. The last bathroom is at the start of a hike, in the information center of the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach.
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There is a tap for water at the start of the hike, but I don’t recommend drinking from it. It is mainly to clean your hands after the walk, as you’ll definitely get your hands dirty during this one. If you are reading a guide for the hike, you’ll probably going to take at least 3 hours to complete it. Be sure to take your own water and snacks as the hike up will be exhausting and energy consuming.
It is definitely worth to visit Penon de Ifach, but climbing it to the top is a totally different topic. The views are amazing and worth seeing, but you can see almost the same from the area just before the tunnel without any unnecessary misery. If you are going for beautiful views and shots, getting to the tunnel is enough for you. If you are interested in a difficult and dangerous hike with rewarding views at the end of it, take a shot. With some luck on a beautiful day, you might get even to see the Balearic Islands from the top of Penon de Ifach.
In Costa Blanca, one thing is for sure, you can hardly find any refuge from the noise and the crowds. Even in the off-season, late in the day, the hike was really crowded. Penon de Ifach literally stands out as an obvious thing to do if you are in a region. Many inexperienced hikers might misunderstand the challenge. Never-ever I heard so few “Thank you” when you let somebody coming from the opposing direction to cross a difficult part. Of course, I’m not complaining about the people being not polite, the problem here is a lack of understanding of the cooperation on a dangerous road.
Nevertheless, I really enjoyed the hike, the views are amazing, and the road is very interesting. Attached chains will help you to keep safe, but the rocks are really easy to hold on as well. Rock climbing enthusiasts will be as pleased just as I was. Overall, if you’ll stay careful with the tourists wandering around, tolerate the birds who occupy the rock, you will appreciate what this unsung hike has to offer.