Nestled in the heart of Valencia’s Ciutat Vella, El Carmen is a neighborhood where history and modernity intertwine in the most captivating way. Once a medieval suburb enclosed by Valencia’s ancient city walls, it has evolved into a vibrant district brimming with culture, nightlife, and artistic expression. Winding cobblestone streets, remnants of the old Moorish and Christian fortifications, and a mix of medieval, baroque, and contemporary architecture tell the story of a neighborhood that has reinvented itself countless times.
El Carmen is a paradox in motion—by day, it’s a picturesque maze of historical sites, hidden plazas, and trendy cafés. By night, it transforms into Valencia’s beating heart of tapas bars, jazz clubs, and lively terraces, drawing both locals and visitors into its intoxicating energy. It is a place where you can stumble upon centuries-old convents turned into modern art galleries, discover street art adorning crumbling facades, or sip on a cocktail in a bar housed in a medieval palace.
More than just a neighborhood, El Carmen is an experience—a timeless district where Valencia’s past and future converge in the most unexpected ways.
El Carmen Details
History of El Carmen
El Carmen’s history is as intricate as its winding streets, shaped by centuries of conquests, transformations, and cultural influences. Its origins date back to the Islamic period (8th–13th centuries), when Valencia was under Moorish rule. At the time, the neighborhood lay just outside the city’s main walls, functioning as an area of orchards, workshops, and homes for artisans and traders. When the Christian King James I of Aragon reconquered Valencia in 1238, the city expanded, and El Carmen was enclosed within a new set of medieval fortifications.
During the Middle Ages, El Carmen became a religious and defensive stronghold. Several monasteries and convents were established, the most significant being the Carmen Convent, which later gave the neighborhood its name. At the same time, the Torres de Quart and Torres de Serranos were built in the 14th and 15th centuries, acting as imposing gateways into the walled city and providing protection from potential invasions.
By the 18th and 19th centuries, El Carmen had developed into a densely populated working-class district. However, as industrialization and urban expansion shifted the city’s focus elsewhere, the neighborhood fell into decline. Many historic buildings suffered neglect, and by the mid-20th century, it became associated with urban decay.
El Carmen’s revival began in the late 20th century, as artists, students, and creatives moved in, attracted by its historic charm and affordable rents. The area became a hub for alternative culture, street art, and nightlife. Today, it is one of Valencia’s most dynamic districts, where centuries-old buildings now house contemporary art galleries, trendy cafés, and lively bars, reflecting a neighborhood that has embraced change while preserving its deep historical roots.
Top Landmarks in El Carmen
El Carmen is a treasure trove of history, art, and architecture, where medieval towers stand alongside modern street art, and ancient convents house contemporary culture. Here are some of the must-see landmarks that define the neighborhood:
🛡️ Torres de Serranos & Torres de Quart – The Guardians of Valencia
These two massive medieval gates are the most iconic remnants of Valencia’s ancient city walls. Torres de Serranos, built in the late 14th century, was once the city’s main entrance and later served as a prison for nobility. Today, visitors can climb to the top for breathtaking panoramic views of the Turia Gardens and the old town.
Torres de Quart, constructed in the 15th century, bears visible cannonball scars from the Napoleonic Wars. Its rugged appearance makes it a powerful symbol of Valencia’s resilience.
🎨 Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporània (CCCC) – Where History Meets Art
Housed in a former 13th-century convent, the Centre del Carme is now a thriving cultural and artistic space. It hosts rotating exhibitions, performances, and experimental art projects, making it a must-visit for those interested in Valencia’s contemporary creative scene. The stunning gothic and renaissance cloisters contrast beautifully with its avant-garde exhibits.
🏰 Portal de la Valldigna – A Window to the Moorish Past
This hidden medieval archway, built in 1400, marks the boundary between the Christian and Moorish quarters of old Valencia. It’s a quiet, picturesque spot that whispers stories of Valencia’s Islamic past.
🌿 Plaza del Tossal & Plaza del Negrito – The Social Hubs
These two squares are the beating heart of El Carmen’s social life. Plaza del Tossal, located near the remains of the medieval city walls, is surrounded by lively bars and terraces. Plaza del Negrito, named after its small fountain, is a favorite spot for locals to enjoy an evening drink in an atmospheric setting.
🖌️ Street Art Murals – El Carmen’s Open-Air Gallery
One of El Carmen’s defining features is its ever-changing street art scene. Murals by famous Spanish and international artists cover the neighborhood’s crumbling facades, turning it into a living, breathing art gallery. Keep an eye out for works by Escif, Valencia’s own Banksy, whose thought-provoking pieces blend urban art with social commentary.
Main Activities in El Carmen
El Carmen is a playground for explorers, food lovers, and culture seekers. Whether you want to sip coffee in a centuries-old courtyard, discover cutting-edge street art, or dance until dawn, this neighborhood offers something for every taste.
🍽️ Culinary Experiences – A Fusion of Tradition and Innovation
El Carmen’s food scene is a mix of old and new—from classic tapas bars serving paella and patatas bravas to modern fusion spots experimenting with global flavors.
Traditional Tapas: Try Bodega La Rentaora for local wines and small bites or Tasquita La Estrecha, located in one of the narrowest buildings in Spain.
Modern & International Cuisine:Canela is famous for its Valencian rice dishes, while Refugio offers creative Mediterranean tapas with a twist.
🎭 Art and Culture – A Bohemian Paradise
El Carmen has long been a haven for artists, musicians, and performers. Its streets are filled with galleries, alternative art spaces, and live music venues.
Street Art Walks: Wander through the district to admire its ever-evolving murals by both local and international artists.
Cultural Spaces: Check out CCC (Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporània) for contemporary art exhibitions or La Beneficència, a historic building now home to Valencia’s Ethnological and Prehistory Museums.
Live Music & Theater:Radio City is an institution for live flamenco and indie concerts, while Sala Carme Teatre hosts avant-garde performances.
🛍️ Shopping – Unique Finds in Hidden Corners
Forget big shopping malls—El Carmen is all about independent boutiques, vintage stores, and artisan markets.
Vintage & Second-Hand:Santo Spirito Vintage and Madame Mim are must-visit spots for retro fashion lovers.
Handmade & Local: Look for Valencian ceramics, handcrafted jewelry, and quirky souvenirs at small artisan shops tucked away in narrow alleys.
🌆 Nightlife – Where the City Comes Alive
As the sun sets, El Carmen transforms into Valencia’s liveliest nightlife district.
Chill Terrace Bars: Start the evening with a cocktail at Café Negrito or Café de las Horas, famous for its Agua de Valencia, the city’s signature orange-based cocktail.
Lively Tapas & Music:Tasca El Botijo offers a fun mix of tapas, wine, and live music.
Clubs & Late-Night Spots: Dance the night away at Jimmy Glass Jazz Bar for live jazz or Radio City for an eclectic mix of DJs and performances.
Places to Eat and Drink in El Carmen
El Carmen’s culinary scene is a blend of tradition and innovation, offering everything from authentic Valencian cuisine to international flavors and cutting-edge gastronomy. Whether you’re looking for a relaxed café, a gourmet dining experience, or a lively cocktail bar, El Carmen has it all.
☕ Cafés and Bakeries – Perfect for a Morning or Afternoon Break
Café de las Horas – A stunning café with ornate décor and a must-try Agua de Valencia, a cocktail of orange juice, cava, and spirits.
Dulce de Leche Boutique – Famous for artisanal pastries, delicious coffee, and a cozy, Instagram-worthy atmosphere.
Librería Bartleby & Co. – A charming bookstore-café where you can enjoy a coffee surrounded by books.
🍽️ Restaurants – A Mix of Traditional and Contemporary Cuisine
Canela – One of the best places in El Carmen for a proper paella or fideuà, located right next to Torres de Quart.
La Comisaría – A modern Mediterranean bistro with great vegetarian options and a chic setting.
Kamon – A high-end Japanese fusion restaurant tucked away in a small alley, perfect for sushi lovers.
El Forcat – A classic Valencian restaurant known for its tapas and traditional rice dishes, set in a historic building.
🍹 Bars and Nightlife – From Laid-Back Cocktails to Lively Clubs
Café Negrito – One of the most iconic bars in El Carmen, ideal for an early evening cocktail in Plaza del Negrito.
•Radio City – A legendary venue with live flamenco on Tuesdays, DJs, and an artsy underground vibe.
Jimmy Glass Jazz Bar – The go-to place for jazz lovers, hosting top international and local musicians.
La Bodegueta de Carmen – A cozy wine bar with a great selection of local and Spanish wines, perfect for an intimate evening.
Accommodation in El Carmen
Staying in El Carmen means immersing yourself in Valencia’s historic charm, with its centuries-old buildings, artistic atmosphere, and vibrant nightlife. Whether you prefer a boutique hotel, a stylish apartment, or a budget-friendly hostel, there’s something for every traveler.
🏨 Boutique Hotels – Stay in Style
For those looking for character and comfort, El Carmen offers beautifully restored hotels that blend history with modern amenities.
📍 Caro Hotel – A luxury boutique hotel set in a 19th-century palace, featuring Roman and Gothic architectural elements. A unique blend of history and sophistication.
📍 Ad Hoc Monumental – A charming, mid-range hotel inside a historic building, offering cozy rooms with exposed brick walls and wooden beams.
📍 MYR Palacio Vallier – A high-end boutique hotel with elegant décor and a rooftop terrace overlooking the old town.
🏡 Vacation Apartments – Live Like a Local
For more space and flexibility, short-term rental apartments are a great option. Many are housed in centuries-old buildings with modern interiors.
📍 Valenciaflats Centro Histórico – Spacious, fully-equipped apartments in the heart of El Carmen, ideal for longer stays.
📍 SingularStays Carmen – Stylish apartments with a mix of contemporary and rustic design, located near Plaza de la Virgen.
🛏️ Budget-Friendly Stays – Hostels & Guesthouses
El Carmen also has great options for backpackers and budget-conscious travelers who want to be in the middle of the action.
📍 Home Youth Hostel – A laid-back, modern hostel with a social vibe, perfect for solo travelers.
📍 The River Hostel – Overlooking the Turia Gardens, this affordable hostel has private and shared rooms with a lively common area.
📍 Center Valencia Youth Hostel – Located steps from Plaza de la Virgen, it’s ideal for those who want cheap accommodation in the heart of El Carmen.
Staying in El Carmen means having Valencia’s best attractions, restaurants, and nightlife at your doorstep, all while soaking up the unique historical and artistic ambiance of this one-of-a-kind neighborhood.
Getting to & Around El Carmen
El Carmen’s central location in Valencia makes it easily accessible by foot, bike, and public transport. With its maze-like streets, historic charm, and pedestrian-friendly atmosphere, walking is the best way to explore, but there are plenty of other ways to get around.
🚉 Getting to El Carmen
From Valencia Airport (VLC):
Take Metro Line 3 or 5 to Xàtiva or Colón station, then walk about 15 minutes into El Carmen.
A taxi or ride-share takes 15–20 minutes, costing around €20–25.
From Valencia’s Train Station (Estación del Norte or Joaquín Sorolla):
A 15–20 minute walk through the old town.
Bus lines 5, 28, or C1 will get you there quickly.
From the Main Bus Station (Estació d’Autobusos de València):
A 10-minute walk across the Turia Gardens.
Buses C1 and 95 stop near El Carmen’s main squares.
🚶 Getting Around El Carmen
Walking: The best way to explore. Many of its narrow streets are pedestrian-only, making it easy to wander between landmarks, cafés, and plazas.
Biking: Valencia is one of Spain’s most bike-friendly cities.
Valenbisi bike rental stations are located throughout El Carmen.
The Turia Gardens cycle path runs right along the neighborhood’s edge.
Public Transport:
Metro stations Xàtiva and Colón are about 15 minutes away on foot.
EMT buses (Lines 5, 28, and 95) connect El Carmen to other parts of the city.
🚗 Driving & Parking – Not Recommended
El Carmen’s medieval streets were not built for cars, and driving here is a challenge due to one-way streets, pedestrian zones, and limited parking.
If you need to park, try:
Parking Mercado Central (near Central Market).
Parking Plaza de la Reina (a short walk from El Carmen).
With its charming walkways, hidden alleys, and buzzing plazas, El Carmen is best experienced on foot, allowing you to fully take in its history, culture, and lively atmosphere.
Personal Favourites
El Carmen is a neighborhood that reveals its secrets to those who take the time to explore. Beyond the well-known landmarks and buzzing nightlife, there are plenty of hidden gems, quirky finds, and unforgettable experiences that make this district truly special.
✨ Why El Carmen?
El Carmen isn’t just a place to visit—it’s a place to get lost, to stumble upon surprises, and to soak up the energy of a city that has been reinventing itself for centuries. Whether you’re here for a few hours or a few days, this neighborhood will leave a lasting impression.
Valencia, a city renowned for its rich history and vibrant culture, is also home to one of Spain’s most futuristic landmarks – the City of Arts and Sciences (Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias). This jaw-dropping architectural complex is more than just a tourist attraction; it’s a cultural and scientific hub that captivates visitors from around the world.
Nestled in the former Turia Riverbed, the City of Arts and Sciences is a perfect fusion of science, nature, and art. With its sleek, otherworldly structures and cutting-edge exhibitions, this complex has become a symbol of modern Valencia. Whether you’re passionate about science, fascinated by marine life, or simply in awe of stunning architecture, this place has something for everyone.
In this guide, we’ll explore its history, iconic buildings, and must-see attractions, making sure you get the most out of your visit.
The City of Arts and Sciences Details
History of The City of Arts and Sciences
The City of Arts and Sciences didn’t emerge overnight—it was a bold vision that took decades to bring to life. This ambitious project was conceived in the late 1980s as part of Valencia’s efforts to modernize and redefine its global image. What was once a flood-prone riverbed was transformed into one of Europe’s most impressive cultural and scientific hubs.
From a Riverbed to an Architectural Icon
Valencia’s Turia River was prone to severe flooding, and after a devastating flood in 1957, the city decided to divert the river. This left behind a vast, empty space running through the city—an opportunity for reinvention. The regional government envisioned a space dedicated to science, culture, and education, and in 1991, the City of Arts and Sciences project was officially approved.
Designed by Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela
The responsibility of designing this futuristic masterpiece was given to world-renowned Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, with Félix Candela joining for specific structures like L’Oceanogràfic. The goal? To create a one-of-a-kind complex that would symbolize Valencia’s innovation, creativity, and commitment to knowledge.
Construction began in 1994, and the first building, L’Hemisfèric, opened in 1998. Over the next decade, more structures followed, each one pushing the boundaries of modern architecture. The complex quickly became a symbol of Valencia, attracting millions of visitors annually.
Challenges and Controversies
Despite its global recognition, the City of Arts and Sciences has faced its share of criticism and controversy. The initial budget was far exceeded, and delays led to increasing costs, ultimately reaching nearly €1.3 billion—a huge jump from the original estimates. Some critics also argue that the futuristic designs prioritized aesthetics over functionality, leading to maintenance challenges.
However, despite these hurdles, the City of Arts and Sciences remains one of Spain’s most celebrated architectural achievements, drawing tourists, scientists, and artists alike.
L’Hemisfèric
A Striking Design with a Deeper Meaning
L’Hemisfèric was the first building to open in the City of Arts and Sciences in 1998. Designed to resemble a giant human eye, it symbolizes the act of seeing and understanding the world. This futuristic structure is surrounded by water, and its reflection creates the illusion of a complete eye, reinforcing its theme of perception and knowledge.
What’s Inside?
L’Hemisfèric is home to an IMAX cinema, digital planetarium, and laser show venue, offering immersive audiovisual experiences. Visitors can watch 3D films on nature, space, and science, with a screen as large as a basketball court. The planetarium projections transport viewers to distant galaxies, making it a must-visit for astronomy lovers.
Why Visit?
Experience 3D IMAX movies on a massive screen.
Enjoy planetarium shows that explore the universe.
Perfect for families and science enthusiasts.
Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe
A Building That Looks Like a Whale’s Skeleton
Opened in 2000, the Science Museum is an architectural marvel, designed to resemble the skeleton of a whale. With its open, airy structure and enormous glass walls, the building itself is a work of science and art.
A Hands-On Science Experience
Unlike traditional museums, this one encourages visitors to touch, experiment, and interact with the exhibits. From physics experiments to biological discoveries, the museum offers an engaging way to learn about science in a fun and interactive manner.
Why Visit?
Over 26,000 square meters of interactive science exhibits.
Great for kids and adults with hands-on learning.
Exhibits on genetics, space, robotics, and more.
L’Umbracle
A Living Sculpture of Nature and Architecture
L’Umbracle is an elegant, arched structure that serves as an open-air botanical garden. This 1,000-meter-long walkway is lined with palm trees, native plants, and sculptures, making it a perfect spot for a peaceful stroll.
More Than Just a Garden
At night, L’Umbracle transforms into a stylish open-air nightclub, offering breathtaking views of the City of Arts and Sciences. Whether visiting during the day or at night, it’s a must-see spot for photography lovers.
Why Visit?
Relax in a beautiful Mediterranean garden.
Enjoy art exhibitions and sculptures.
Stunning city views, especially at sunset.
L’Oceanogràfic
A Deep Dive into Marine Life in Europe’s Largest Aquarium
L’Oceanogràfic is one of the most impressive aquariums in the world, featuring over 500 marine species from the Arctic, Mediterranean, Red Sea, and more. With 45,000 animals, including dolphins, sharks, and beluga whales, this is a paradise for marine lovers.
What Makes It Special?
The largest underwater tunnel in Europe, offering a 360-degree view of sharks and rays.
The Dolphinarium, where visitors can watch spectacular dolphin shows.An underwater restaurant, where you can dine surrounded by fish.
Why Visit?
Perfect for families and marine enthusiasts.
Explore different ocean ecosystems in one place.
Home to exotic species like jellyfish, turtles, and penguins.
Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia
An Architectural Masterpiece
This opera house and performing arts center, opened in 2005, looks like a spaceship from the future. With state-of-the-art acoustics and stunning design, it’s one of the most visually striking buildings in the complex.
What’s Inside?
The Palau de les Arts hosts opera, ballet, and classical music performances, attracting world-class artists and musicians. The interior is just as breathtaking as the exterior, featuring four different performance halls designed for optimal sound quality.
Why Visit?
Attend an opera, ballet, or orchestral concert.
Explore one of the most unique opera houses in the world.
Architectural tours available for those interested in design.
Montolivet Bridge & Assut de l’Or Bridge
These two bridges add to the futuristic aesthetic of the City of Arts and Sciences. The Assut de l’Or Bridge, designed by Santiago Calatrava, features a massive white pylon that resembles a harp. The Montolivet Bridge provides easy access to the complex and offers a great view of the entire area.
Why Visit?
Get panoramic views of the City of Arts and Sciences.
A great spot for photography, especially at night.
A key part of Valencia’s modern urban design.
Why You Should Visit the City of Arts and Sciences
The City of Arts and Sciences isn’t just a collection of futuristic buildings—it’s a symbol of Valencia’s transformation into a global destination for innovation, culture, and entertainment. Whether you’re a science enthusiast, architecture lover, or simply a traveler looking for unique experiences, this incredible complex has something for everyone.
A Must-Visit Destination in Valencia
If you’re planning a trip to Valencia, this is one attraction you can’t afford to miss. Whether you spend a full day exploring its wonders or just admire the architecture from the outside, the City of Arts and Sciences will leave a lasting impression.
Here’s why you should visit:
✅ One-of-a-kind architecture by Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela.
✅ Engaging exhibits that make science and technology fun for all ages.
✅ Unforgettable experiences like walking through Europe’s largest underwater tunnel.
✅ A perfect mix of education and entertainment for families, solo travelers, and couples.
✅ Great photo opportunities—especially at night when the buildings are illuminated.
Plan Your Visit
If you’re inspired to explore this futuristic wonder, here are a few tips to make the most of your visit:
🎟️ Buy tickets in advance – Popular attractions like L’Oceanogràfic can get busy.
🕘 Visit in the morning or late afternoon to avoid crowds and enjoy the best lighting for photos.
🚲 Rent a bike – The Turia Gardens surrounding the complex are perfect for cycling.
🎭 Check for special events – From opera performances to scientific workshops, there’s always something exciting happening.
The City of Arts and Sciences is more than just an attraction—it’s an experience. Whether you come for science, nature, architecture, or entertainment, this futuristic masterpiece will leave you in awe.
Far far away, in the middle of Andalucia lies a town equivalent of a warm bitter-sweet cold glass of a fine Spanish cherry, locally known as Jerez. This fortified and unfiltered gem is still full of a purified Spanish love for life, free of the northern nonsense. And, honestly, I wish this well-kept secret to remain so–authentic and stubborn. I’m writing this article not for business purposes but purely out of love for the town with a traditional character. My ode to Antequera, if you don’t mind because I don’t.
Often it is known for the symhiosis of its half natural, half man made monuments of El Torcal and Neolithic Dolmens, but seldom it is praised for its rich and diverse history. Of course, most of Spain share these historical and cultural characteristics and Antequera is a perfect example of it, just more so.
Antequera is also known as “the hearth of Andalucia”, not only because it stands on the crossroads of the main regional cities: Seville, Cordoba, Granada, and Malaga, but also because in its Old Town lies the geographical center of the region, or, at least, the city claims so. Whatever is the case–in Atequera you’ll feel like in the middle of everything.
Antequera Details
Neolithic Origins (4000-2200BC)
Most famous monuments in Antequera come from its dawn when it was just a phenomenon of natural beauty and profound human imagination. The three dolmens of Menga, Viera, and Tholos de Romeral are dated from deep Neolithic (the Dolmen de Menga 4000BC) to the Bronze Age (Tholos De Romeral 3000-2200BC) showing technological degradation over time. These exceptional megalithic structures includes a stone of 180 tonnes, which is beyond impressive but moving such heavy pieces was rather typical for that period if time. Lost technology? Perhaps, but sites like Dolmens of Antequera, as wonderful as they are, are not unique by itself. What makes them unique is the alignment of these ancient megalithic structures to the natural environment.
The Dolmen de Viera is aligned at the Equinoxes-astronomical event, so far so good. The Dolmen de Menga is aligned to the Peña de los Enamorados, it’s a bit strange, but clearly ancient people thought that some kind of God or Giant is resting there (Sleeping Zeus near Heraklion in Crete comes to mind). Finally, the Tholos of Romeral is aligned at El Torcal, which is, really, like whatever… But the fascinating part that these different alignments form a triangle. Coincidence? I doubt it. Dolmen of Antequera is just one of many Neolithic structures showing sophisticated understanding of geometry, environment and sun movements by the ancient people who built it.
Based on historical written records, the Domen De Menga was always known to the people who lived in this area.
Bronze Age-2nd Century BC ()
My favourite period is rather silent as it is often is but Tartessus which is often linked to the Biblical and.. from Oddyssey.
The Tholos of Romeral is the most important archaeological site from this period but a Bronze Age settlement was uncovered to the North of Antequera as well. This could be city of the people who built the Dolmens.
Later on, Iberians and even traces of Carthage, but we can only guess what life could’ve looked back then as no written, or at least deciphred sources remain..
Roman Antikaria (1st-5th Century AD)
It is difficult to comprehend but about 2000 years ago, the grasp of Rome reached Antequera, whole of Iberia, and actually much more. An interesting fact is that the branch of the famous Via Augustus, Domitiana, ran and branched in Antequera. These roads were built as an ambitious project by the first Emperor of Rome to show off his power by making the same road that Carthaginian General Hanibal used for his surprise attack on Rome in 218 and Hercules before him, accessible to everyone. Impressive it was indeed, Via Augustus was widely used by Moorish even a millenia later, just they probably didn’t knew who built it, so called it al-Racif.
Nevertheless the importance of these roads, probably, the most known Roman ruins in the city are the Roman Baths. It is located just below one of the most beautiful places in Antequera–Plaza de Santa Maria. The ancient structure date back to the mid 1st century and was used up until the Romans lost control over Hispania in the 5th century. In these baths was found one of the most impressive archaeological find in the city-an impressive bronze sculpture known as Ephebus of Antequera.
The Romans ruled over this region for 7 centuries since the Second Punic Wars in 218-201 BC, when Carthage lost the control of this rich region.
Note that the size of the Roman Baths could indicate the size and importance of this faraway Roman town.
Visigothic Dark Ages (419-716)
Though the Visigoths ruled the area during the interperiod between Roman and Umayyad Caliphate Empires, it was pagan Vandals who took Anticaria from the Roman Catholic Empire. Took might be overstatement, it was more like they destroyed everything on their way. It was other German people, Visigoths, who took control of the area for the next 3 centuries. Ironically, they were Arian Christians, a Christian branch declared heretic by the Rome itself. In about 716, Visigothic Anticaria was conquered by Muslim forces, or even earlier, led by the forces of Tariq ibn-Ziyad himself. Exceptionally interesting and mysterious figure from the Northern Africa, who’s motivation to invade Iberia could have been not as much religious but rather historical-the people from Northern Africa-Carthaginians, used to rule these lands.
Medina Antaquira
One of the most notable buildings in the city is Alcazaba. Though it is almost exquisitely moorish, excavations show Roman an earlier presence on the hill.
The citadel with all of its fortifications as we know it today was built in 13th century due to rising Spanish Christian threat. This transformation of the facade was dwarfed by what was to come. Very tragic for local Muslim populations, but very fortunate for Christian World as the whole. In the pre-modern history times it always worked that way, somebody wins and somebody looses it all.
The Siege of Antequera (1410)
After … unsuccessful attempts, Antequera was finally conquered by the Infante Ferdinand of Castile after an exhausting siege in 1410–the same year the Grand Duchy of Lithuania together with the Kingdom of Poland halted once and for all the Northern Crusade after the Battle of Grunwald.
Given the magnificent fortifications of the city, no wonder it took 6 difficult months for ravaging Christians to finally breach the walls and take the castle from the locals. Mark the date because by this time, the Moors have been already living here for more than 7 centuries. It is 28 to 35 generations. By that time, the local Muslim Antequerans probably knew less about the Northern Africa than you do now.
Both sides understood the strategic importance of Antequera for the final battle for Granada. Nevertheless, even after the succesful siege of the city, it took another 82 years for Christians to take the Capital City.
The local Muslim population was expelled from the city to Granada, forming one of its districts known as Antequerella???
The White Tower (with the Christian city’s bell crowned in 1582) is the second-widest Moorish tower in all of Andalusia.
Christian Antequera (1410+)
Did you know that Antequera has the most churches per capita in all of Spain? Well, now you know, but you might wonder why? Well, the answer is very simple, in the 15th century Antequera found itself on the frontiers against Muslim… of Granada. Christians wanted to establish, and at the same time to show off, their devotion to Christian God. A charm of luck for the final battle between two major religions. A battle of the war which eventually skyrocketed the Christian World into the Renaissance and sunk the Muslim World into its dark ages.
All of its 36 churches were built during this period between the siege of Antequera and the siege of Granada. And it seems that nobody ever questioned again, if they need another church in Antequera.
benidNestled along the stunning Costa Blanca, Benidorm is a vibrant city that seamlessly blends traditional Spanish charm with modern allure. Known for its golden beaches, lively nightlife, and iconic skyline adorned with skyscrapers, Benidorm has become a premier destination for travelers seeking both relaxation and excitement.
Sun-Kissed Beaches and Azure Waters
Benidorm boasts two main beaches, Playa de Levante and Playa de Poniente, both awarded the prestigious Blue Flag status for their pristine conditions and top-notch services. Playa de Levante, known as the “Sunrise Beach,” is perfect for early risers wanting to catch the first rays of the sun, while Playa de Poniente, or “Sunset Beach,” offers a tranquil atmosphere ideal for families and those seeking relaxation. Water sports enthusiasts can indulge in activities like jet-skiing, parasailing, and paddleboarding.
Wander through El Casco Antiguo, Benidorm’s historic old town, a charming area characterized by narrow cobblestone streets, whitewashed houses, and vibrant bougainvillea. Visit the Church of San Jaime and Santa Ana, perched atop Canfali Hill, which offers panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea. Don’t miss the Balcony of the Mediterranean (Balcón del Mediterráneo), a stunning viewpoint where the old castle once stood, providing breathtaking vistas of the coastline.
Indulge in Benidorm’s rich gastronomy, heavily influenced by Mediterranean flavors and influx of British holidaymakers. Savor local specialties like Valencianpaella, arroz a banda, and fresh seafood dishes at traditional restaurants. Stroll through the Municipal Market to taste a variety of tapas and sample horchata – a refreshing drink made from tiger nuts – another delicacy from Valencia. For a unique dining experience, visit Calle Santo Domingo, popularly known as “Tapas Alley,” where a plethora of bars offer an array of delicious bites and over-supply of infamous fish and chips.
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Thriving Nightlife and Entertainment
As the sun sets, Benidorm comes alive with an energetic nightlife scene. Head to the Rincón de Loix area for an array of bars and clubs that cater to all musical tastes. Experience world-class entertainment at the Benidorm Palace, renowned for its spectacular cabaret shows featuring music, dance, and acrobatics. For a more laid-back evening, enjoy live music performances at venues along the beachfront or visit the Auditorio Julio Iglesias for cultural events and concerts.
Discover the natural beauty surrounding Benidorm. Hike through the Sierra Helada Natural Park, a protected area offering trails with stunning views of the cliffs and sea. I have a detailed guide to the best hikes around Benidorm.
Take a boat trip to Benidorm Island, a small islet that is a haven for snorkeling enthusiasts and home to diverse marine life. By the way, have you heard about the legend of the origins of Benidrom Island?
Adventure seekers can explore the nearby Algar Waterfalls, where you can swim in crystal-clear pools amidst lush vegetation, or venture to the Guadalest Valley to visit the historic Castell de Guadalest. Whatever is your preference, Benidorm is great for day-trips and activities–thanks to its effective tourism infrastructure, which is always ready to evolve in order to meet the needs of its visitors.
Cultural Festivals & Events
Immerse yourself in local culture by participating in Benidorm’s traditional festivals. In November, the Fiestas Mayores Patronales celebrate the city’s patron saints with vibrant parades, fireworks, and religious ceremonies. June brings the Hogueras de San Juan, a festival marking the arrival of summer with beach bonfires and lively parties. These events offer a glimpse into the rich traditions and communal spirit of the city.
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Family-Friendly Attractions
Benidorm is an ideal destination for families, offering a variety of attractions suitable for all ages. Explore Terra Mítica, a theme park inspired by ancient Mediterranean civilizations, featuring thrilling rides and shows. Cool off at Aqualandia, one of Europe’s largest water parks, boasting exciting slides and pools. Visit Mundomar, a marine and exotic animal park, where you can interact with dolphins, sea lions, and parrots. The Terra Natura Zoo and aqua park provide educational fun with wildlife exhibits and water-based activities.
Shopping and Local Crafts
Shopaholics will delight in Benidorm’s diverse retail options. Visit the La Marina Shopping Center for international brands or explore the Old Town’s boutique shops for local crafts, souvenirs, and fashion. The weekly El Cisne Flea Market is a treasure trove of antiques and vintage items, accompanied by live jazz music and food stalls. Don’t forget to pick up traditional Spanish goods like handcrafted ceramics, leather products, and locally produced wines.
Benidorm offers a wide range of accommodation options, from luxury hotels with sea views to cozy apartments and budget-friendly hostels. Many hotels are located within walking distance of the beach and offer amenities such as pools, spas, and rooftop terraces. Popular choices include the Hotel Melia Benidorm, Gran Hotel Bali, and the boutique-style Hotel Helios.
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Getting Around
The city’s efficient public transport includes buses and taxis, making it easy to navigate. For a unique experience, try the Benidorm Tourist Bus or rent a bicycle to explore at your own pace. The nearby Alicante-Elche Airport connects Benidorm to major European cities, facilitating convenient travel. Car rental services are also available for those wishing to explore the broader Costa Blanca region.
A Mediterranean Destination Like No Other
Benidorm’s unique blend of sun-soaked beaches, rich cultural heritage, vibrant nightlife, and stunning natural landscapes make it a destination that truly has something for everyone. Whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, family fun, or cultural enrichment, this Mediterranean gem promises an unforgettable experience that will leave you eager to return.
All photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots.
Nestled amid the rolling hills of Valencia, Xàtiva is a city where history comes alive at every turn. With its towering Xàtiva Castle overlooking the town, winding medieval streets, and rich cultural heritage, Xàtiva invites you to step back in time and immerse yourself in the legacy of civilizations that have shaped this unique destination.
A City Reborn from Ashes
In 1707, during the War of the Spanish Succession, King Philip V ordered the city to be burned as punishment for its resistance. Demonstrating resilience, the people of Xàtiva rebuilt their city from the ashes. As a symbol of defiance, the local museum displays an upside-down portrait of Philip V—a testament to the unbroken spirit of its inhabitants.
Xàtiva Details
State: Valencian Community
Coordinates: 38.9903° N, 0.5211° W
Distance from Valencia: Approximately 60 km / 37 mi
Founded: Roman era as Saetabis
First mentioned: 2nd century BC
Population: 29,982 (2023)
Area: 76.56 km² / 29.56 mi²
Elevation: 115 m / 377 ft
UNESCO World Heritage Site: The Castle of Xàtiva is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “El Arte Rupestre del Arco Mediterráneo de la Península Ibérica” (1998)
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The Majestic Castle of Xàtiva
Perched atop a steep hill, the Castell de Xàtiva is the crown jewel of the city and a must-visit attraction in Xàtiva. This impressive fortress, with origins dating back to Iberian and Roman times, offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Wander through its ancient walls, explore hidden passages, and imagine the historical events that unfolded within this stone stronghold.
No visit to Xàtiva is complete without exploring the Castell de Xàtiva. This hilltop fortress, with origins in Iberian and Roman times, provides breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. Highlights of the castle include:
The Keep: Offering the best panoramic views of the region.
Roman Cisterns: Ancient water storage systems that tell the tale of early engineering.
Prison Towers: Eerie reminders of the castle’s role as a place of confinement.
Birthplace of the Borgias
Xàtiva holds the distinguished honor of being the birthplace of two popes from the infamous Borgia family: Pope Callixtus III and Pope Alexander VI. Their legacy is woven into the fabric of the city, with numerous landmarks and stories highlighting their influence during the Renaissance period. Visiting Xàtiva provides a unique opportunity to delve into the intriguing history of the Borgias. Follow the Borgia Trail to uncover their influence on the city:\
Birthplace of Pope Alexander VI: Marked by a commemorative plaque.
The Church of Sant Francesc: This historic church is associated with the Borgias and is a key stop on the trail, offering insights into their religious and political power during the Renaissance.
The Collegiate Basilica of Santa Maria (La Seu)
Located in the heart of the city, the Collegiate Basilica of Santa Maria is a stunning example of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Admire its intricate façade, climb the bell tower for a bird’s-eye view of the city, and explore its interior treasures, including:
The Main Altar: Featuring intricate carvings and paintings.
Religious Relics: Artifacts that showcase Xàtiva’s deep-rooted faith.
More Things to Do & to See in Xàtiva
Founded as a royal hospital by Jaume I in 1244 and rebuilt centuries later, it is one of the most beautiful and interesting monuments in Xàtiva. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Royal Hospital
Built in the 15th century, the Royal Hospital of Xàtiva is a testament to medieval healthcare and philanthropy. Its elegant cloisters and well-preserved chapel provide insight into the city’s commitment to caring for its residents.
The Museum of Fine Arts (Casa de l’Ensenyança)
Art enthusiasts will appreciate the Museum of Fine Arts, housed in a former 18th-century school building. This museum features:
The Upside-Down Portrait of Philip V: A symbol of defiance after the city was burned in 1707.
Art by José de Ribera: The renowned painter known as “Lo Spagnoletto.”
Local Artifacts: Showcasing the cultural and historical evolution of Xàtiva.
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The Almodí Museum
For a deep dive into Xàtiva’s archaeological and historical roots, visit the Almodí Museum, housed in a former grain exchange. Key exhibits include:
Artifacts from Iberian and Roman Times: Tools, pottery, and sculptures that trace the city’s ancient origins.
Medieval Coins and Manuscripts: Offering a glimpse into Xàtiva’s role as a regional economic hub.
The Legacy of Paper Production: Learn about Xàtiva’s pioneering role in European papermaking using techniques introduced by the Moors. Xàtiva established one of the first paper mills on the continent. This innovation played a crucial role in the spread of knowledge throughout the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, cementing Xàtiva’s place in European papermaking history.
Plaza del Mercado and Historic Center
Stroll through the Plaza del Mercado, a lively square surrounded by historic buildings, quaint cafés, and traditional shops. Nearby, you’ll find:
The Church of Sant Feliu: A small but charming Romanesque church with a serene atmosphere.
Palace of Alarcón: A well-preserved aristocratic residence reflecting Renaissance architectural styles.
The Fountain Route
Xàtiva is famous for its numerous historic fountains. Follow the Fountain Route to discover:
Fuente del León (Lion Fountain): A striking landmark in the city center.
Fuente de la Trinidad: One of the oldest Gothic fountains in Spain.
Font dels 25 Dolls: A unique fountain with 25 spouts, showcasing intricate craftsmanship.
Culinary Delights
Indulge in the city’s renowned Valencian cuisine at local restaurants and markets. Don’t miss:
Arròs al Forn (Baked Rice): A hearty dish featuring local ingredients.
Arnadí: A sweet dessert made from pumpkin and almonds, perfect for satisfying your sweet tooth.
Local Wines: Pair your meal with wines from the nearby Valencia wine region, known for its quality vintages.
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Practical Information
Getting There: Xàtiva is easily accessible by train from Valencia, with regular services making it a convenient day trip. The journey offers scenic views of the Spanish countryside.
Accommodation: Options range from historic hotels in the city center to charming rural houses in the surrounding countryside. Staying overnight allows you to experience the city’s ambiance after the day-trippers have left.
Best Time to Visit: While enjoyable year-round, visiting during the Fira de Xàtiva in August offers a unique cultural experience. Spring and autumn also provide pleasant weather for exploring.
Personal Experience
I think Xàtiva, together with Sagunt and Peñíscola, are three of the most interesting historical towns in the Valencian Community, with its castle potentially being the most impressive archeological ruins of its category. Therefore, Xàtiva is more than a pretty tourist destination; it’s a journey through centuries of history, culture, and natural beauty. From the iconic Xàtiva Castle to the tranquil Fountain Route, every corner of this Valencian gem tells a story. Whether you’re an adventurer, a history buff, or a foodie, Xàtiva has something for you.
Nestled along the Mediterranean coast, the charming city of Denia comes alive every March with the vibrant and fiery festival of Fallas, marking one of Spain’s most unique and spirited celebrations. Inscribed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2016, this dazzling event transforms many cities across the region into a canvas of colossal effigies, fiery displays, and communal joy, showcasing a tradition steeped in creativity, satire, and the welcoming of spring. While Valencia may be the heartland of the Fallas festivities, Denia, with its own distinctive charm and fervor, offers a compelling experience that mirrors the grandeur and intensity of its larger counterpart yet maintains an intimate community feel.
The Fallas in Denia 2024 promises an unforgettable spectacle, inviting locals and visitors alike to immerse themselves in a cultural phenomenon that blends ancient customs with contemporary artistry. As a testament to the enduring bond between Denia and its ancestral traditions, the festival not only honors the town’s heritage but also serves as a dynamic platform for social commentary and artistic expression. From the intricate design of the fallas (monumental sculptures) to the exhilarating burst of fireworks lighting up the night sky, every element of the festival is a tribute to the creativity, ingenuity, and spirited communal life of Denia.
Fallas in Denia has a unique flavor of its own, the festival in the Capital of Marina Alta is a particularly attractive location for the popular Valencian festivity because the sculptures are burned one by one. This way, allows curious people to enjoy the spectacle in all parts of town bit by bit. Whether you’re drawn to the spectacle for its artistic merits, the thrill of the pyrotechnics, or the warmth of community gatherings, the Fallas festival in Denia offers a rich tapestry of experiences that resonate with the essence of Spanish festivity and tradition.
A Brief History of Fallas Denia
The roots of the Fallas festival in Denia, much like those in the rest of the Valencian Community, intertwine deeply with the region’s history, blending medieval customs, pagan rituals, and Christian celebrations into a vibrant tapestry of cultural expression. Originally, Fallas began as a feast day for St. Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters, marking the arrival of spring with the burning of waste materials and old wooden items collected during the winter. This act of purification and renewal, over centuries, evolved into the elaborate festival we witness today, characterized by the creation and destruction of fallas – elaborate sculptures that are as satirical as they are spectacular.
Denia’s adaptation of this tradition has grown in scale and complexity, reflecting both local and global themes through its fallas. These towering figures, crafted with incredible skill and wit, fill the city’s squares and streets, turning Denia into an open-air museum of ephemeral art. Each falla is a marvel of design, engineering, and artistry, representing months of dedication by local artists and communities. They often depict scenes of social, political, and cultural commentary, providing insight into contemporary issues with humor and creativity.
The festival’s crescendo, the ‘Nit de la Cremà’ (Night of the Burning), sees these magnificent sculptures consumed by flames in a symbolic act of regeneration and rebirth. This spectacular finale, lit against the backdrop of Denia’s historic landscapes and Mediterranean charm, is a poignant reminder of the cycle of life and the impermanence of art.
Through periods of prohibition and revival, the Fallas festival has persisted, embodying the resilience and adaptability of the Valencian spirit. Even during the Franco regime, when regional languages and traditions were suppressed, Fallas found a way to endure, adapting its forms of expression to ensure its survival. Today, recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the Fallas festival stands as a testament to the community’s commitment to its cultural legacy, celebrating not just the arrival of spring but also the enduring power of creativity and community. In Denia, the Fallas festival is more than just a series of events; it is a communal act of creation, celebration, and renewal, deeply woven into the fabric of the city’s identity.
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Main events: The Plantà (March 11-16), La Ofrenda (March 17-18), Nit de la Cremà (March 19)
Fallas Denia Map
Where to Stay?
Having experienced the Fallas festival in Denia, it’s clear the entire city vibrates with the festival’s energy, especially during this period. Your accommodation choice should depend on what you’re looking to get out of your visit. If you’re here to dive deep into the festivities, staying close to the city center will keep you near the heart of the action. For those primarily interested in the ‘Nit de la Cremà’ and don’t mind a bit of travel, options outside the center could also work well. Denia’s local transportation, including buses and taxis, efficiently accommodates the influx of visitors, ensuring you’re never too far from the festival’s highlights.
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Fallas Denia 2024 Schedule
The Fallas in Denia 2024 promises an array of events filled with tradition, art, and community spirit. To help you navigate through the festivities, here’s a breakdown of the schedule:
Week 1
Thursday, February 8
19:00: Opening of the Fallas clubhouses
19:30: Visit of the judging panel to the clubhouses participating in the decorated clubhouses prize
Saturday, February 10
18:15: Gathering of the Fallas commissions, Local Fallas Board, major Falleras of Dénia, and courts of honor on Federico García Lorca street.
18:30: Visit of the major Falleras of Dénia, courts of honor, Local Fallas Board, and commissions to the clubhouses of the Fallas Camp Roig, Campaments, Darrere del Castell, Les Roques, and Baix la Mar, and Fallas announcements
Week 2
Thursday, February 15
19:30: Visit of the judging panel to the clubhouses participating in the decorated clubhouses prize
Friday, February 16
10:30 to 13:00 and 16:00 to 19:00: Reception of Ninots participants of the Ninot Exhibition at Casa de la Marquesa Valero de Palma
19:45: Gathering of the Fallas commissions, Local Fallas Board, major Falleras of Dénia, and courts of honor in Valgamediós Square.
18:30: Visit of the major Falleras of Dénia, courts of honor, Local Fallas Board, and commissions to the clubhouses of the Fallas West, Center, Port Rotes, Diana, Saladar, and Paris Pedrera, and Fallas announcements
Saturday, February 17
17:45: Gathering of the Fallas officials 2024 at the end of Marqués de Campo street
18:00: Parade to the Ninot Exhibition
18:30: Opening of the Ninot Exhibition 2024 at Casa de la Marquesa
20:00: Crida by the major Falleras of Dénia, Mar Moncho Roselló and Candela Marco Jiménez, and proclamation, in Constitució square
21:00: Fallera Gala Dinner with the award of the 2024 Exemplary Fallero distinction and awards of JLF and JCF at L’Androna Multiespai Room.
Sunday, February 18
18:30: Children’s Fallera Gala with the awards of JLF and JCF. Afterwards, snack for the attending children.
Week 3
Pause
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Week 4
March 1 to 14
14:00: Tir de carcasses (firecracker event)
Saturday, March 2
13:00: Dinar de Germanor (Brotherhood meal) in Torrecremada, and awarding of the Best Fallas Ban, Best Fallas Presentations, Best Showcase, Best Presenters, Best Keepers, Child’s Pardoned Ninot, and Adult’s Pardoned Ninot
Sunday, March 3
12:00: Concert by the Artistic Musical Group of Dénia, at the crossroads of Saladar Av. and Diana St.
Week 5
Wednesday, March 6
09:45 to 13:30 and 16:45 to 20:30: Fallera blood donation in Llunàtics Multipurpose Room.
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20:00: First Night of Serenades to the major Falleras of Dénia in the following order:
Major Falleras of Dénia – Plaza de la Constitució (Constitution Square)
Falla Les Roques
Falla West
Falla Campaments
Falla Behind the Castle
Falla Baix la Mar
Friday, March 15
10:00: Breakfast in the Fallas areas
10:00: The FFMM, Mar Moncho Roselló and Candela Marco Jiménez, will welcome visitors at the Tourist Office of Oculist Buigues square
14:00: Tir de carcasses (firecracker event) and Plantà meal in the Fallas neighborhoods
20:00: Second Night of Serenades:
Falla Camp Roig
Falla Paris-Pedrera
Falla Saladar
Falla Diana
Falla Port Rotes
Falla Center
Saturday, March 16
08:00: Planting of the Fallas monuments in the different districts of the city
10:00: Breakfast in all the Fallas districts
12:30: Planting of the Local Fallas Board’s Falla in Consell Square
14:00: Tir de carcasses (firecracker event) and Plantà meal in the Fallas neighborhoods
18:00: Courtesy visit of the major Falleras of Dénia, Courts of Honor, and Local Fallas Board to the Fallas districts in the following order:
Falla Les Roques
Falla Baix la Mar
Falla Behind the Castle
Falla Campaments
Falla West
Falla Camp Roig
Falla Paris-Pedrera
Falla Saladar
Falla Diana
Falla Port Rotes
Falla Center
21:00: Plantà dinner
22:00: Announcement rockets for the Night of the Planting
Denia Fallas Main Event
Sunday, March 17- La Ofrenda
07:00: Wake-up call in the Fallas areas
08:00: Visit of the judging panel to the Fallas
09:00: Visit of the rest of the juries
10:45: Gathering of all the commissions in the Town Hall Square
11:00: Tribute to the major Falleras of Dénia and to the major Falleras of Les Roques, Behind the Castle, and Baix la Mar
13:00: Awarding of children’s prizes at the Town Hall
14:00: Mascletà in the different Fallas districts
18:15: Gathering of all the commissions on Patricio Ferrándiz street.
18:30: Homages to the major Falleras of Paris Pedrera, Camp Roig, Campaments, and West
20:30: Awarding of the prizes for the big Fallas 2024 at the Town Hall
23:00: Festivals in the Fallas districts
Monday, March 18 – La Ofrenda
07:00: Wake-up call in the Fallas areas
11:15: Gathering of all the commissions in Consell square
11:30: Tribute to the major Falleras of Center, Port Rotes, Diana, and Saladar
14:00: Mascletà in the Fallas districts
20:30: Mascletà in Jaume I Square
23:00: Festivals in the Fallas districts
Tuesday, March 19 – St. Joseph’s Day
07:00: Wake-up call in the Fallas areas
08:00: Children’s wake-up call
10:00: Parades in the Fallas areas
11:00: Mass in honor of St. Joseph at the Church of the Assumption
11:00: Flower offering in honor of la Virgen de los Desamparados (the Virgin of the Forsaken). Route: Marqués de Campo St., Diana St., Magallanes, Convent Sq.
14:30: Mascletàs in the Fallas districts
18:00: Parades in the Fallas districts
19:00: Reception for the new presidents for the 2024-2025 period in the Town Hall Square
Burning Times of the Fallas Dénia 2024
20:00: Burning of the Local Fallas Board of Dénia’s Falla
This is not so well known but the capital of Tenerife, the biggest island in the whole Canaries, holds the second biggest carnival in the world. It is no surprise that Santa Cruz de Tenerife is a twinned city with Rio de Janeiro – the host of the biggest carnival in the world – Carnival of Rio de Janeiro. Throughout the years with the growing tourism, the popularity of the event only grew.
In 1987 more than 250,000 gathered for the performance of Celia Cruz during the Carnival and it was registered by World Guinness Book Records as the biggest people gathering in an outdoor plaza to date. Though it was not acknowledged by the same institution, it is well-recognized that more than 400,000 people gathered during Day Carnival in 2019.
The celebration of the carnival has been in the Canary Islands since the arrival of Europeans. Though considered to be a Christian event, it could be a continuation of some kind of pagan tradition to celebrate the return of light.
Today it is the biggest annual event held in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, but not everybody all the time likes the idea of carnival and wearing masks. Throughout history, there have been several attempts to ban masks or the carnival itself. Despite all the attempts the celebrations persisted. Together with Cadiz, Santa Cruz de Tenerife continued to celebrate the carnival even during the Franco regime when the event was banned, probably due to pagan origins. The resilience of people might be the reason why Santa Cruz de Tenerife hosts such a big carnival these days.
I’ve been to Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife only for The Grand Parade day but from what I saw – it left me with the impression that the city is partying for the whole duration of the Carnival. So, it depends on what you are after for but if fun is the goal – the closer to the city center – the closer to the action. If you are interested only in the parade part of the carnival – anywhere would do. Just keep in mind that you’ll have to get there somehow. TITSA transportation company will have an increased number of buses operating, depending on the crowds.
Staying close to the city center will make you feel like a part of the carnival even when at home. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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Main events: The Queen’s Gala (Feb 7), The Opening Parade of the Carnival (Feb 13), The Big Carnival Parade in Santa Cruz de Tenerife (17 Feb)
Carnival Map
Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife 2024 Schedule
In 2019 when I was visiting Santa Cruz de Tenerife for the event I found it quite difficult to find relevant information except in Spanish. The schedule and location information are taken from the official carnival website(find the reference at the end of the article) and translated into English. Also, I added Google Maps directions to all the locations where the event is taking place. I hope you find this useful because it was exactly what I needed in 2019 when I last visited the carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
Week 1
Friday Jan 12
21:30 – Opening of Carnival 2024
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Though it is hard to take a picture of orchestra performances, they are as much impressive as the Queens of Carnival. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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Sunday, Feb 11
11:00 – Performance of the Afilarmónica Ni fú-Ni fa – Plaza del Príncipe;
During the Grand Parade of the Carnival you can see all of the Queen of Carnival finalists. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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Week 6
Monday, Feb 12
All day – Carnival’s Monday
Tuesday, Feb 13
11:00 – Performance of the Afilarmónica Ni fú-Ni fa – Plaza del Príncipe;
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18:00 – End of Fiesta, the tour of groups through the center of the city. At the end of the great fireworks display – Ron Barceló Stage in the Plaza de La Candelaria;
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As the festive season approaches, the Marina Alta region in Spain becomes a canvas for a heartwarming tradition that has been cherished for generations – the display of Betlems, or nativity scenes. This tradition, deeply rooted in the Valencian Community, just as it is Spanish culture in general. Nevertheless, each region has its own quirks and taste to approach this long-standing tradition. You’ll find a unique expression in the towns of Marina Alta, where each Betlem is not just a depiction of the Nativity story but a reflection of the community’s artistic flair and dedication.
The Origin and Significance of Betlems in Spanish Culture
The practice of setting up nativity scenes, or ‘Beléns’ as they are known in Spanish, or ‘Betlems’ as they are known locally in Valenciano language, dates back to the 13th century. St. Francis of Assisi is credited with creating the first nativity scene in 1223, aiming to cultivate the worship of Christ. From this humble beginning in Italy, the tradition spread to Spain, where it evolved over centuries to become an integral part of the Christmas celebration.
In Marina Alta, this tradition takes on a local flavor. Each town brings its own history, culture and local crafts to life through these intricate displays. The Betlems are more than just religious symbols; they are a showcase of craftsmanship and a focal point for community gatherings during the holiday season. Marina Alta, and Spain in general, is crazy about miniature nativity scenes, just with a rather odd twist. It evolved in a strange way – that baby Jesus is not the main superstar bur rather ‘the pooper’, or locally known as ‘El Caganer’. These rather odd figures appear even in the local Nativity Scenes in churches, though always on the furthest corner fro the baby Jesus. Their origin is unknown, some guess that they symbolize the fertilization of the land, but knowing the fun character of Spanish people my bet would be that ‘the popper’ is just a prank gone wild.
The Uniqueness of Marina Alta’s Betlems
What sets the Betlems of Marina Alta apart is their . These nativity scenes are not just displays; they are stories told through art, capturing the essence of the region’s rich cultural tapestry. The use of local materials like wood, clay, and textiles, and the incorporation of scenes depicting traditional Spanish life, make each Betlem a unique piece of art.
As we delve deeper into the world of Marina Alta’s Betlems, we find ourselves immersed in a tradition that beautifully intertwines religious reverence with artistic expression and community spirit. In the following section, we will explore some of the most popular nativity scenes in Marina Alta, each with its own story and charm.
El Vergel’s nativity scene, a tradition for nearly 30 years, is a marvel of community effort. Each piece, crafted by local volunteers, reflects their dedication and affection. The scene has evolved over time, featuring realistic mountains mimicking local landscapes like the Serra de Segària, historical period houses made from plaster and cardboard, and unique handcrafted figures. This Betlem is a vivid portrayal of the Christmas story, intertwined with El Vergel’s rich community life and creative spirit
Denia offers a unique twist by situating its nativity scene by the sea. This maritime Betlem, complete with fishing boats and sea-related elements, reflects Denia’s close relationship with the Mediterranean. The sound of waves gently lapping against the shore adds a serene and contemplative ambiance to the traditional nativity story.
Xàbia’s nativity scene is a testament to traditional Spanish craftsmanship. Using local materials and age-old techniques, this Betlem is a homage to the enduring nature of Spanish Christmas traditions. The detailed figurines, dressed in period attire, and the realistic miniature buildings offer a glimpse into the historical lifestyle of Marina Alta.
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Pego
Pego’s Betlem is a true historic gem, featuring main figures that are over a century old, originally part of the Franciscan nuns’ nativity scene. These figures, rich in history, were donated to the town when the nuns left about two decades ago. The Associació Betlemista de Pego, led by Salvador Miralles, Pepe Mengual, and Abril Sendra, played a pivotal role in the Betlem’s restoration. This meticulous handwork, coupled with new figures crafted from recycled materials or hand-painted, represents a blend of tradition and innovation. Notable aspects include hand-restored main figures, structures made from cork and other recycled materials, and small details like fruits, vegetables, and doves crafted from cold porcelain. Additionally, the Betlem features elements that replicate real geographic locations in Pego, adding a layer of local charm and authenticity.
This town won’t miss a chance to entertain its visitors and inhabitants. Here, Nativity Scenes lines-up into a long list of things to do in Calpe. Naturally, Calpe respects its long standing culture and history, and maintains tradition of Betlems, just with a twist. Calpe’s Nativity Scene stands out with its interactive nativity scene, where visitors can walk through and experience the story of Jesus’ birth up close. This engaging approach, combined with live performances on certain days, makes Calpe’s Betlem a lively and immersive experience for all ages.
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Personal Experience
My December visit to Marina Alta offered a unique glimpse into the rich tapestry of Christmas traditions, where each town’s Betlem, or nativity scene, was not just a display but a vibrant narrative of culture, faith, and community. As I meandered through the region, each Betlem I encountered was a testament to local artistry and tradition. In Pego, the meticulous craftsmanship and lighting of the scene were spellbinding, weaving a story of hope and joy. Vergel’s nativity scene, lovingly crafted by local artisans, radiated a warm sense of community, reflecting the stories and spirit of its creators.
What struck me most was the diversity and uniqueness of each town’s interpretation of the Nativity story. From traditional materials to scenes depicting local life, every Betlem I saw was deeply rooted in the region’s history and cultural heritage. This journey through Marina Alta’s nativity scenes was more than just a festive tour; it was an immersion into the heart and soul of the region. The Betlems stand as vibrant expressions of the communities’ culture and faith, leaving me with not only memories of their beauty but a profound appreciation of the traditions that unify Marina Alta.
Nestled on the sun-kissed coast of Spain, Calpe beckons with its rich tapestry of history and natural beauty. This charming town, cradled by the majestic Penon de Ifach, has witnessed the ebb and flow of civilizations for over 3,000 years. The Phoenicians, known for their seafaring prowess, were among the earliest to leave their mark, drawn to this region by the same rock formation that today stands as a symbol of Calpe’s enduring allure. As they navigated the Iberian shores, they referred to the Penon de Ifach as the “rock of the north,” contrasting it with the renowned rock of Gibraltar, then known as Mons Calpe. These early settlers saw in Calpe’s rugged landscape a mirror to their other settlements across the Mediterranean, leaving behind a legacy that whispers through the town’s ancient streets.
Calpe’s story is further enriched by the footprints of the Greeks and Romans. The Greeks, in their vast explorations, recognized the unique geological formations like Penon de Ifach, terming them ‘Calpe,’ a name resonating with descriptions of large stand-alone rocks. This connection to the ancient world hints at a deeper, possibly pre-Roman, history of the town, suggesting an intriguing blend of cultures over the millennia. The Romans, captivated by Calpe’s strategic location and natural beauty, established a settlement that has grown into a treasure trove of historical wonders. Baños de la Reina, a testament to Roman ingenuity with its well-preserved mosaics and hydraulic systems, stands as a silent witness to the town’s vibrant past. These ancient ruins, now nestled between the iconic Penon de Ifach and Calpe’s bustling city center, offer a portal to a time when Romans appreciated the natural splendors of this enchanting land, a sentiment that continues to resonate with modern visitors. Today, the city enjoys a huge interest from foreigners and locals alike resulting in rapid growth in size and attractions.
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1. Visit Peñón de Ifach
Standing as a natural sentinel over Calpe, the Peñón de Ifach is an obvious number-one activity for any great outdoors enthusiast visiting the area. This towering limestone formation, soaring 332 m / 1,089 ft above the sea, is not only an iconic symbol of the region but also a haven for nature enthusiasts and hikers. The climb to the top, though steep and challenging, rewards visitors with breathtaking panoramic views of Calpe’s coastline and the vast Mediterranean Sea. Along the way, hikers are likely to encounter a rich variety of local flora and fauna, including rare bird species. The summit offers a unique opportunity to appreciate the beauty of the Costa Blanca from an unparalleled vantage point, making this experience a memorable highlight of any trip to Calpe. The views from the top of the rock of Calpe are so exceptionally beautiful that many people are trying to hit above their class by climbing the mountain. If you are not sure you are fit for the task, you can read more about it in my guide to the Penon de Ifach hike.
The central walls of the bastion in the middle of Calpe were built somewhere between the 13th and 14th centuries to protect local farmers from Muslim attacks. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
2. Visit the Historic Old Town
Calpe’s Historic Old Town is a vibrant tapestry of history and culture, offering a journey back in time through its narrow, winding streets. This charming quarter is a mosaic of ancient stone buildings, colorful murals, and Gothic churches, each telling its own story of the town’s rich past. As you wander through these quaint lanes, you’ll discover hidden plazas and delightful cafés, perfect for soaking in the local atmosphere. The Torreó de la Peça, an old defense tower, now serves as a cultural symbol of the town’s resilience through the ages. The blend of Moorish and Spanish architecture is a visual feast, and the artisan shops scattered throughout the area offer unique, handcrafted souvenirs. A visit to the old town is not just a walk through Calpe’s history, but an immersive experience in the living heart of this enchanting Spanish town. If you want to learn more about this topic, I have a separate article where I focus purely on the Old Town and the rich history of Calpe and the region.
3. Enjoy Sunset on a Boat Cruise
There’s no more enchanting way to end a day in Calpe than by embarking on a sunset boat cruise. As the sun dips below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of orange, pink, and purple, the Mediterranean Sea turns into a glittering canvas of colors. Aboard the cruise, you can feel the gentle sea breeze and hear the soothing sound of the waves, creating a serene and romantic atmosphere. It’s an ideal setting for photography enthusiasts, capturing the silhouette of the Peñón de Ifach against the fiery sky. Cruises include amenities like light refreshments or dinner, allowing you to savor local flavors while you float along the coast. This magical experience not only offers a different perspective of Calpe’s stunning coastline but also provides a tranquil moment to reflect on the day’s adventures.
4. See Great Flamingos in Les Salinas de Calpe
A visit to Les Salinas de Calpe offers a unique wildlife experience right in the heart of the town. This natural saltwater lagoon, a remnant of ancient salt mining traditions, has become a sanctuary for a variety of bird species, most notably the elegant flamingos. These iconic birds, with their vibrant pink plumage and graceful movements, create a picturesque scene against the backdrop of the lagoon and the distant Peñón de Ifach. Bird watchers and nature lovers can stroll around the perimeter of the lagoon, enjoying the tranquility and capturing stunning photographs. The presence of informational boards along the paths provides insights into the ecology of the area and the life cycle of these fascinating birds. A visit to Les Salinas is not just a chance to witness the beauty of flamingos in their natural habitat, but also an opportunity to appreciate the delicate balance of Calpe’s unique ecosystem.
Playa de la Fossa(right) and Arenal-Bol(Far-left) from the tunnel to Penon de Ifach peak. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
5. Explore the Beaches of Calpe
The beaches of Calpe are a cornerstone of its charm, offering a perfect blend of natural beauty and leisure activities. From the bustling Arenal-Bol to the more serene La Fossa, each beach has its own unique character. Arenal-Bol, with its fine golden sand and crystal-clear waters, is ideal for families, offering a safe and vibrant environment for swimming and sunbathing. La Fossa, known for its picturesque views of the Peñón de Ifach, provides a tranquil escape with its pristine shoreline and gentle waves. For those seeking a more secluded experience, the small coves dotting the coastline, like Cala del Morelló, offer peaceful retreats away from the crowds. Each beach is well-equipped with amenities like sun loungers, beach bars, and water sports facilities, ensuring a comfortable and enjoyable day by the sea. Whether you’re looking to relax under the Mediterranean sun, take a dip in the azure waters, or try your hand at windsurfing or paddleboarding, Calpe’s beaches offer something for every kind of beach-goer.
6. Take a Leisurely Stroll along the Promenade
The Paseo Marítimo in Calpe is a delightful promenade that stretches along the coastline, offering a scenic route for a leisurely walk. Lined with swaying palm trees and offering stunning views of the sea and the Peñón de Ifach, the promenade is a perfect place to experience the vibrant heartbeat of Calpe. As you stroll along, you’ll pass by a variety of charming restaurants and cafes, each offering a taste of local and international cuisine, often with al fresco dining options that allow you to enjoy your meal with a view. The walkway is also dotted with small boutiques and souvenir shops, perfect for browsing local crafts and gifts. In the evenings, the promenade comes alive with a gentle buzz of activity, making it an ideal spot for a romantic walk under the stars or an enjoyable evening out with family and friends. Whether for a morning jog, a leisurely afternoon stroll, or an evening meander, the Paseo Marítimo is a must-visit to truly embrace the coastal charm of Calpe.
7. Climb Morro de Toix
For those seeking an adventure off the beaten path, climbing Morro de Toix offers an exhilarating experience. This impressive cliff, located at the edge of Calpe, provides stunning views of the coastline and the Mediterranean Sea. As you ascend, the panoramic vistas unfold, offering breathtaking perspectives of the Calpe bays and the sprawling landscapes below. For rock climbing enthusiasts, there are various routes with different levels of difficulty, each promising an exciting and rewarding journey, but regular people can always climb Morro de Toix via urbanization roads from Calpe’s side. The summit of Morro de Toix is a peaceful spot, ideal for contemplation and taking in the natural beauty of the Costa Blanca. This activity not only tests your physical limits but also provides a unique way to connect with the rugged and raw beauty of Calpe’s natural landscape.
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8. Enjoy Fresh Seafood & Local Cuisine
Calpe’s culinary scene is a delightful celebration of fresh seafood and traditional Spanish flavors. The town’s close proximity to the sea ensures a constant supply of fresh fish and seafood, making it a paradise for seafood lovers. Local restaurants, ranging from cozy taverns to elegant eateries, offer a variety of dishes that showcase the best of Mediterranean cuisine. Signature dishes like paella, seafood stew, and fresh grilled fish are prepared with locally sourced ingredients, bringing the authentic taste of the region to your plate. Alongside seafood, one can also savor other regional specialties such as arroz a banda (rice cooked in fish stock), tapas, and fideuà (a noodle dish similar to paella). For a truly immersive experience, pair your meal with a glass of local wine or a refreshing sangria. Dining in Calpe is not just about the food; it’s an opportunity to indulge in the rich gastronomic culture of the region, with each meal offering a glimpse into the town’s culinary heritage and the Mediterranean lifestyle.
9. Visit Suitopia Skybar
Elevating the experience of Calpe’s vibrant nightlife is the Suitopia Skybar, a must-visit destination for those seeking a blend of luxury and stunning views. Located at the top of one of Calpe’s tallest buildings, this stylish skybar offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the town, the Mediterranean Sea, and the majestic Peñón de Ifach. As the sun sets, the skybar transforms into a picturesque setting, with the changing colors of the sky creating a mesmerizing backdrop. Guests can enjoy a variety of expertly crafted cocktails, fine wines, and a selection of gourmet snacks, all served in an elegant and contemporary atmosphere. The Suitopia Skybar is not just about the drinks; it’s an experience that combines stunning vistas, sophisticated ambiance, and exceptional service. Whether you’re looking to relax after a day of exploring or seeking a sophisticated evening out, the Suitopia Skybar promises an unforgettable experience in the heart of Calpe.
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Map of Calpe & Walks
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Nestled amongst the bustling modernity, Calpe’s old town is a hidden gem, a testament to its rich and diverse history. Wandering through its narrow streets, one can feel the layers of time peeling back, revealing tales of ancient civilizations and bygone eras. The town’s architecture is a mosaic of different influences – from the Moors to the Romans – each leaving an indelible mark on its character. Intricate doorways lead to sun-dappled courtyards, and the scent of traditional Spanish cuisine wafts from small family-owned restaurants. Despite the encroaching modern developments, this part of Calpe remains stubbornly authentic, a bastion of the town’s heritage. It’s a place where the past coexists with the present, offering a serene contrast to the thriving tourist spots nearby. Here, the true essence of Calpe’s spirit endures, unspoiled and enchanting, inviting those who seek more than just a superficial glimpse into its storied past.
The historic center of Calpe is so engulfed by hotels and second-apartment houses that it is very easy to miss it entirely. It took me a couple of years to find it – the old town hides much further from Penon de Ifach and the main beaches. At some point, it felt absolutely unnoticed by the crowds, and thank God. It is a true break from the noisy promenades and touristic restaurants. A small corner where the locals can still enjoy their typical Spanish life on Costa Blanca and I have to say with a style. The tourist cow is bringing a lot of milk to Calpe, and the streets and houses of the historic center are more colourful than an average town in Spain. Though perfect for Instagram pictures, it is not everything Calpe has to offer, the town has a long history which now is literally lost between the hotels.
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Calpe is located at one of the most beautiful geographical places in Costa Blanca. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Calpe’s Origins
Thanks to the graceful rock known as Penon de Ifach (Spanish peñón de translates to the “rock of”, and Libo-Phoenician Ifac to “of the north”), this area has been known at least since the times when the first Phoenicians have been exploring the Iberian shores about 3,000 years ago. These ancient but great navigators referred to Gibraltar and Penon de Ifach as the south and the north rocks, respectively. It wouldn’t surprise anyone if they settled in the area of the current-day Calpe. Especially, given that they were the first historical settlers near the rock of Gibraltar, which back then was known as Mons Calpe (Phoenician the “hollowed mountain”). The archaeological data shows Phoenician presence since 950 BC. Gibraltar was by far not the only Phoenician settlement in the Iberian peninsula, therefore it is a plausible thesis for them to have settled in a town with the same name as Mons Calpe by a similar graceful rock.
The Greeks knew even more Calpes. In 401 BC, after the battle of Cunaxa, the Greek philosopher Xenophon found himself as the leader of 10,000 fleeing men through an unknown country. In his diary, the Greek speaks of Calpe – a large rock on the shores of the Black Sea. It is hard to say if it was the name of a settlement or simply the name for such geological formations. Either way, Calpe was clearly mentioned in that name several times in Xenophon’s diary and in some ancient Greek maps. Today that settlement is probably known as Kerpe.
Translated from Greek, Calpe means something similar to urn or round-vessel. The word might have been used to describe large stand-alone rocks like Gibraltar and Penon de Ifach. Given that the ancient Greeks already knew how to process fish, could it be that Baños de la Reina salting factory was founded much earlier than we imagine? Maybe, Greek sailors colonized the area before the Romans? That remains only a thesis for now.
During the Roman times, Calpe was nothing but a small enclave, dependent on the nearby Dianium (Today’s Denia). Despite its size, this ancient site holds many wonders of its own. The Roman settlement had a hydraulic system, which provided water to its inhabitants. Also, because of its well-preserved mosaics, Calpe is counted as one of the most important Roman heritage sites in the province of Alicante. Today, it lies almost unnoticed between Penon de Ifach and the city center. Ironically, the first hotels of Calpe arose just next to the ancient settlement in the early 20s.
One thing I’m sure of the Spanish ancestors is that they appreciated natural beauty as much as modern humans do, and possibly even more. The Roman baths and fishery pools, known as Baños de la Reina, in Calpe, were built close by Penon de Ifach, just at the right distance to appreciate its magnificence the most. While the site was most likely used mainly for the fish farming and salinating needs of the nearby city Dianium, the scenery must have been taken into account for the location of the settlement. One could argue that the desire of modern people to move to Calpe was inherited from the Romans or the people who have been doing the same process even before.
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Not that many remain in the historic records of Calpe during the Moorish reign. One possibility is that the invasion of the Muslims into the Iberian Peninsula could have given the name to Calpe even before the conquerors arrived here. It is well known that in the 8th century, the Berber commander Tariq ibn Ziyad launched his attack from Gibraltar Rock, which was known ever since as Jabal Tariq (eng. the mountain of Tariq). This name evolved into modern Gibraltar but the town by the iconic rock was known as Calpe since the prehistoric Phoenician times. you can even find the name “Calpe” on the coat of arms of Gibraltar. It could be that in the 8th century, the settlers of Calpe of the straits fled as far as possible to Costa Blanca, where they found a similar rock and named their new settlement in honour of their old home.
After a successful conquest of Marina Alta, the new rulers built their castle further to the South from Calpe, on a mountain, overlooking the Canyon of Mascarat. It was the central administrative and defensive base in the area of Marina Alta to the south of Mount Montgo. The Moors remained in control until the region was reconquered by the Christians somewhere in 1240-54.
Despite that, many Moors were allowed to remain in Iberia in their homes. Those who chose this path got to be known as mudéjar (romanized version of Arabic “mudajjan”, meaning tamed, domesticated). In fact, unlike most of the Iberian Peninsula, Muslims greatly outnumbered Christians in the region of Valencia. These demographics combined with the discrimination and violence against Mudéjar people led to several uprisings, known as Al-Azraq revolts in honour of the famous commander who led all of them. Al-Azraq (Arabian the one with blue eyes) had a Muslim father and a Christian mother. Even after these revolts, the local Muslim population was allowed to live in the area including Calpe until 1526, when Islam was banned in the Kingdom of Aragon. Between 1609-1614, even Moriscos (Mudéjars converted to Christianity) were expelled from the country.
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The Christian Calpe
There are speculations that the city walls of the historic Calpe could be dating as far as Roman times but there is no direct evidence to this thesis. In fact, it was the Christian King Pere IV who ordered the strengthening of the existing walls in 1338 but it was executed only in 1375 under Alfons el Vell who found the money for the job in the budget. It was crucial for the existence of Calpe in these sometimes hostile lands. Soon after, in 1386 the castle of Calpe was divided into towns currently known as Teulada, Benissa, Senija, and Calpe. The newly formed units started to shape the area into what we are used to today.
The central walls of the bastion in the middle of Calpe were built somewhere between the 13th and 14th centuries to protect local farmers from Muslim attacks. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Probably the biggest impact on Marina Alta and Calpe during the Christian reign was done with the terrible decree to expel Moriscos from Spain. It was signed by King Felipe III himself, which left the Moors only with three days to reach the closest port to leave the country. Moriscos were allowed to take only what they could carry on their bodies. Everything else was to stay. To make things worse, anyone who found Moorish people after the three days was allowed to take everything from them and even kill Moriscos if they resisted. This, of course, went wrong in all possible ways, not to mention the fact that the Moors had lived in the Iberian Peninsula for over 800 years at that time. Twice as many years have passed since this inhumane event.
At that time, 127,000 Moriscos, who were expelled or killed represented 30% of the Valencian population. The area of Denia and Javea alone lost about 42,000 people and in many cases, they were the most productive people around. Obviously, these events had counter-productive consequences, and the only people to profit were the people in charge, of selling the homes and other property of Moriscos. Even so, the profits were only short-term because the lands were left uncultivated, and the equilibrium was destroyed. Nothing was left but despair and desolation on the shores of Calpe and Valencia in general. In the 17th century, the town was plagued by Barbary pirates. Calpe was no exception. Most of the coastal areas have experienced the attacks – it was the same Moriscos who had returned to their homeland with rage against Spain. Nevertheless, the population of Calpe kept increasing and the situation of the town finally consolidated after hundreds of years of hardships. The growth of the town continued towards the direction of provincial powerhouses Alicante and Altea.
Today, Calpe is a very popular vacation destination or a second house choice, once again the city seems to have become the home for many different peoples. Maybe, that is the correct recipe for its success.
Wandering around the streets of the historic center of Calpe is well worth at least 1 – 2 hours of your time. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Things to do in Calpe
Explore Valencia from Calpe: Full-Day Excursion
Discover the rich history of Valencia on a day trip from Calpe, with cultural highlights and free time to explore.
If you are interested in finding out more activities in the city, you can read my guide for the best things to do in Calpe.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Valencia, a beautiful city located on the southeastern coast of Spain, is home to a rich cultural heritage that is recognized by UNESCO. This vibrant city boasts four UNESCO World Heritage subjects that showcase its historical and architectural significance. One of them is honored in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites and the other three are marked among the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Naturally, the Valencian culture extends beyond the boundaries of the city, and some of the heritage can be observed and appreciated well beyond the city walls. Nevertheless, Valencia is a perfect example of a city and its peoples transcending cultural habits from over millennia, making it an exceptional cradle of the physical and intangible cultural heritage of Humanity.
Lonja de la Seda de Valencia
The Lonja de la Seda, or the Silk Exchange, is an emblematic symbol of Valencia’s golden age, a period marked by economic and cultural prosperity. Built between 1482 and 1533, this complex of buildings was originally the heart of the silk trade in the city, a bustling center of commerce and social interaction. Its stunning Gothic architecture is not just a visual treat but a narrative of Valencia’s historical significance. The grand Sala de Contratación, or the Contract Hall, is the crown jewel of this complex. This magnificent hall, with its spiraled columns reaching towards the heavens, is a testament to the power and wealth Valencia held as a major Mediterranean mercantile city during the 15th and 16th centuries.
Details
Architect: Pere Compte
Style: Valencian Gothic
Date of Construction: 1482-1533.
Date of Inscription: 1996
Type: World Heritage Site
Location: Plaza del Mercado, 31, 46001 Valencia, Spain
Visit hours: 10 AM – 7 PM (10 AM – 2 PM on Sundays)
1890 Photoglob Co., publisher, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Architectural and Historical Significance
The Lonja de la Seda is a masterpiece that encapsulates the essence of late Gothic architecture. Its design and construction reflect the secular spirit and the cultural richness of the Mediterranean region during that era. The building’s façade, adorned with intricate carvings and gothic motifs, narrates stories of a bygone era. Inside, the lavish detailing and the grandiose columns of the Sala de Contratación create an almost cathedral-like atmosphere, symbolizing the secular power and economic strength of Valencia. This architectural marvel not only served as a commercial hub but also became a social and cultural gathering place, influencing the urban landscape of Valencia.
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Contemporary Relevance
Today, it is not only a tourist attraction but also a cultural landmark that continues to inspire awe and admiration. Its inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites list in 1996 has helped in its preservation and has brought global recognition to Valencia’s rich cultural and historical heritage.
Valencia Fallas Festivity
The Fallas Festivity in Valencia is an annual explosion of color, art, and communal joy, deeply rooted in the local culture and celebrated with unbridled enthusiasm. Inscribed in 2016 as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO, this event, held from March 14 to 19, is a vibrant testament to the community spirit and artistic creativity of Valencia. The festivity’s centerpiece, the giant falla, is an awe-inspiring monument composed of ninots – caricature figures created by local artists that provide a satirical commentary on current social issues. These towering structures, set ablaze in a ritual of renewal and purification, symbolize the onset of spring and the rejuvenation of social activities.
Details
Date of Inscription: 2016
Type: The Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
The Valencia Fallas Festivity is much more than a mere spectacle; it’s a profound expression of local identity and community pride. Each year, neighborhoods come together to construct these elaborate ninots, fostering a sense of unity and cooperation. The Fallas Queen, a winner fallera elected annually, plays a pivotal role in promoting the festivity, embodying the spirit of Valencia and encouraging participation. This festival is not just a celebration; it’s a living tradition, passed down through generations, especially within families who are integral to the construction of the ninots. These families often belong to different guilds, each contributing their unique skills to the festivity. The festival is so popular that cities from neighboring provinces, like Burriana or Fallas in Denia, started to celebrate it as well.
In march 17 the local people dress-up in traditional clothing to bring flowers to the Virgin Mary. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Social Impact and Language Preservation
Historically, the Fallas Festivity has served as a crucial platform for preserving the Valencian language, especially during periods when its use was restricted. This cultural event strengthens community bonds, enhances social cohesion, and provides an outlet for collective creativity. The intricate process of creating the ninots and the elaborate preparations for the festivity play a crucial role in safeguarding traditional arts and crafts. The festival’s communal meals, parades, and fireworks further enrich the social tapestry of Valencia, making it a focal point of cultural identity.
Today, the Fallas Festivity stands as a vibrant symbol of Valencia’s rich cultural heritage, attracting visitors from around the world. Its recognition by UNESCO underscores its significance not just to Valencia, but as a cultural treasure of humanity. The festival’s ability to adapt while maintaining its core traditions is a testament to the resilience and vibrancy of the Valencian community.
Irrigators’ Tribunals of the Spanish Mediterranean Coast
The irrigators’ tribunals of the Spanish Mediterranean coast, an extraordinary example of living history, date back to the times of al-Andalus (9th to 13th centuries). These ancient judicial bodies, inscribed in 2009 as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, epitomize the enduring legacy of traditional law and water management practices in Valencia and Murcia. The two main tribunals – the Council of Wise Men of the Plain of Murcia and the Water Tribunal of the Plain of Valencia – are not mere historical relics; they are active and respected institutions integral to local community life. Operating under Spanish law, these tribunals democratically elect their members, who then judiciously resolve water-related disputes through oral proceedings.
Details
Date of Inscription: 2009
Type: The Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
Date of Event: Each Thursday at 12h00, Valencia
Location: Tribunal de las Aguas de la Vega de Valencia, Plaza de la Virgen, Valencia, Spain
Operating under Spanish law, these tribunals democratically elect their members, who then judiciously resolve water-related disputes through oral proceedings. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cultural and Social Significance
These tribunals are much more than arbiters of water rights; they are the bedrock of community cohesion and agricultural tradition. The process of resolving disputes is conducted publicly, ensuring transparency and fairness, and has been so for centuries. This visible and participatory nature of the tribunals fosters a deep sense of trust and respect within the community. The rites and rituals that accompany the delivery of judgments are not only a spectacle but also reinforce the historical and cultural significance of these institutions. Moreover, the tribunals are celebrated in local iconography, reflecting their embeddedness in the cultural fabric of the region.
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Synergy and Knowledge Transmission
The irrigators’ tribunals also play a crucial role in maintaining the synergy among various traditional occupations, such as wardens, inspectors, and pruners. They are living embodiments of centuries-old cultural exchanges, particularly evident in their unique lexicon, enriched with Arabic terms. It makes them not just about water management; the irrigators are custodians of a rich oral tradition and repositories of local and regional identity. The knowledge and practices associated with these tribunals are passed down through generations, ensuring the survival and relevance of these ancient customs in a modern context.
Irrigators’ Tribunal in Valencia is assembled every Thursday 12 O’Clock by The Door of the Apostles of the Cathedral. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Contemporary Importance
In a world rapidly modernizing and often forgetting its roots, the irrigators’ tribunals stand as a testament to the enduring relevance of traditional practices in contemporary society. They exemplify how ancient wisdom, particularly in resource management, can offer valuable lessons and solutions for present-day challenges. As a UNESCO-recognized site, these tribunals not only garner international attention but also remind us of the importance of preserving such unique cultural practices for future generations.
Manual Bell Ringing
In the cultural tapestry of Valencia, manual bell ringing holds a unique and resonant place. Recognized in 2022 as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, this tradition is much more than a musical practice; it’s a form of communication deeply embedded in the community’s life. For centuries, the bells of Valencia have served numerous social functions, from marking time to signaling important events and emergencies like fires or floods. The intricate language of bell ringing, with its specific coded messages, is not just understood but cherished by the local communities.
Details
Date of Inscription: 2022
Type: The Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
Manual bell ringing could be still heard across Valencia in churches like the Church of San Juan del Mercado or the Cathedral. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Variety and Techniques
The art of bell ringing in Valencia showcases a rich variety of sounds, each with its own significance and occasion. The diversity in the ringing patterns is attributed to the combination of different techniques like chiming, turning, or half-turning, and the skills of the bell ringers. These sounds are further influenced by the physical characteristics and acoustical properties of the bells, towers, and belfries. This results in a deep and extensive repertoire, encompassing both religious and civic contexts, thereby integrating the art into various facets of community life.
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Transmission and Preservation
The transmission of this art form is a testament to the community’s commitment to preserving its cultural heritage. Knowledge and skills of bell ringing are passed down from experienced bell ringers to younger generations, often through formal groups or organizations dedicated to this practice. These groups play a pivotal role not just in ringing the bells but in documenting, researching, and disseminating the art. The involvement of young people in this tradition is particularly noteworthy, as they are not only the custodians of this legacy but also active participants in recruiting new enthusiasts, ensuring the continuity and dynamism of this ancient art.
Manual bell ringing in Valencia is more than a tradition; it’s a living, breathing part of the city’s identity. Its recognition by UNESCO underscores its importance not just as a cultural artifact but as a vibrant, continuing practice. In an age dominated by digital communication, the bells of Valencia remind us of the enduring power and beauty of traditional forms of communication and community bonding. As we move forward, preserving and celebrating such traditions becomes ever more crucial in maintaining our connection to our past and to each other.
Popular Things to Do in Valencia
Catamaran Cruise with Sunset Option
Enjoy a relaxing catamaran cruise, day or sunset, with a glass of cava.
Cartagena is an ancient port city located in the Region of Murcia, southeastern Spain. Cartagena has been inhabited for over two millennia, and its history and culture can be seen in the many archaeological sites and monuments found across the city. Roman ruins, such as the forum, temple, and amphitheater, which together with the Christian Conception Castle from the XIII century AD are some of the most popular tourist attractions in Cartagena. Not to mention the Carthaginian, Byzantine or Moorish remains, and the modern Art Noveau architectural masterpieces scattered throughout the city, which combined make you feel like in open doors museum.
Cartagena is also home to the Museo Nacional de Arqueología Subacuática, which contains artifacts from the many shipwrecks that have occurred in the area. Cartagena is also the home to the first modern working submarine in the world – The Peral Submarine – which could be seen in Cartagena Naval Museum. The city continues its nautical traditions and hosts a Naval and Oceanic Engineering University and a naval military base. One of the four main military bases of the Spanish Navy and the only one located on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. This speaks volumes of the city’s strategic importance to whoever possesses it. Naturally, various military ships could be observed docked in the port of Cartagena. Huge tankers, and huge cruise ships are also a common sight. Overall, the second largest city in Murcia is a perfect city for naval, military, and history enthusiasts.
Cartagena was founded in 229 BC by Hasdrubal Barca under the name of Qart-Hadast. He was a son of Hamilcar Barca and brother-in-law of the legendary Carthaginian general Hannibal Barca, who is often cited as the biggest outside threat that the Roman Republic ever faced. Cartagena was one of the towns founded by the Punics during the expansion of their activities in the Iberian Peninsula after the First Punic War to pay off rather unfair reparations demanded by the Romans after the First Punic War, explaining the ancient mines surrounding the city like the ones in La Union and Mazzaron. It was a minelar rich area, and the peninsula surrounded by the sea, a natural Laguna and mountains seemed like a perfect location for a city. The conditions were so good, that Hasdrubal forseen the town as the Capital of his Iberian Kingdom. He even built a fancy Palace on Molinete Hill, so magnificent that would only fit a King.
Unfortunately, Qart-Hadast didn’t last for long. The newly-found city was captured by the Romans in 209 BC during the second Punic Wars, 9 years after Hannibal launched the attack from this town against the Roman Republic and their allies in 218. The victors renamed the newly-founded Qart-Hadast to Cartago Nova. The mining opportunities made the town one of the most prosperous settlements in Romana Hispanica. By the end of the I century, the most exposed deposits were depleted but Cartagena remained flourishing during the Roman period – it was an essential port for trade and commerce.
Post-Roman Times
After the fall of the Roman Empire, followed the fall of Cartago Nova. The city was sacked and occupied by the Visigoths and later on by the Moors. It was recaptured by the Christians in 1245 and became an important naval base for the Spanish fleet. During the 18th century, Cartagena was a major trading port for goods from the Americas.
Unfortunately, due to its importance, Cartagena has seen a lot of war. It was the site of a major naval battle in 1741 between the British and the Spanish. Later on, Cartagena was besieged by the French in 1811, and it was bombarded by the British in 1812. The city was partially destroyed during the Cantonal Revolution, captured by the Americans in 1898 during the Spanish-American War. But in the end it was the Spanish Nationalists who did the most damage to the city. During the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939), Cartagena was the main naval base of the Republican Government and it was the last city to surrender to the forces of General and future dictator Francisco Franco.
During the Spanish Civil War, Cartagena was the main naval base of the Republican Government. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Today, Cartagena is a popular tourist destination known for its exciting mix of old and new architecture, exceptionally rich history, good local Spanish cuisine, and big range of various beverages. Besides cultural ventures, the city is known for its beautiful natural location surrounded by mountains, filled with remote beaches, and coves.
Map of Cartagena
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The Punic Wall in Cartagena is a defensive wall built by Carthaginians before the second Punic Wars period somewhere between 229 and 209 BC. This cultural monument is among the top things to do in Cartagena because it is the only clearly visible remaining piece of the original Carthaginian Qart-Hadast. The wall was built in order to protect the city from the local enemies and potentially future confrontations with Romans. Being one of the most well-preserved Punic walls remaining, it is a very important archaeological site not only on the National scale but on a global as well. The Punic Wall in Cartagena is one of the very few archaeological remains of Carthaginians in Spain.
Interesting that the remaining wall is facing the only land passage to the fortified part of the town. The first attempt to conquer Qart-Hadast by Romans failed miserably and had both tribunals slain together with their armies somewhere by these Punic walls. Nevertheless, the resilient Romans returned under the command of Publius Cornelius Scipio, a son, and nephew of the two commanders who died during the first attempt. He had his troops establish their base on Mount Mercury (Cabezo de los Motos), not too far from Cartagena. From there the Romans proceeded a blockade, though with limited results. The great Roman general had his difficulties penetrating the city’s walls but he wouldn’t be great if he didn’t. Scipio ordered some troops to trespass the salty lagoon from the north. Carthaginians didn’t respect enemies from that side, so the troops climbed the walls unnoticed after which they were able to open the main gates and let the rest of the army into the city. After this ingenious plan, most of the Carthaginians surrendered while a few fought their last on the hills of Conception and Molinete.
One of the most spectacular things about the Punic Wall is its precisely cut stones. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
In addition to the oldest defense fortress in Cartagena, you’ll get to see awkwardly uncomfortable macabre Dances of Death paintings in the 16-17th century Crypt of San Jose, which was excavated at the same time as the wall and seems to have been built within it.
Roman Amphitheater (5-1 BC)
The Roman Amphitheater of Cartagena is one of the best-preserved Roman theaters in Spain and the second largest in the Iberian Peninsula, falling under the equivalent in Merida, Extremadura. The amphitheater was built in 5-1 BC during the reign of the great Emperor Augustus and was dedicated to his grandchildren. At that time it originally seat up to 6,000 people. Today, due to its good condition and some renovations, the amphitheater is still used for cultural events such as plays and concerts.
The Roman Theater in Cartagena is one of the best-preserved amphitheaters in Spain. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The amphitheater is the home to the archeology museum, where you can learn not only about the Roman past but the evolution of the surrounding area throughout the years. It was always in the center of Cartagena’s development – nowhere else the intermix of the cultures could be better observed in the city. The Roman Amphitheater could also be appreciated from the castle hill, but you can only learn more about its fascinating history if you decide to visit the museum.
The Roman Fortuna House in Cartagena is a museum offering a unique experience of taking a glimpse into the past of the daily life of Romans. The exposition is located in the former home of Patrician living in Cartagena. Here you’ll get to learn about the typical Roman upper-class villas, the museum also contains a collection of Roman artifacts that were found during the excavations in the area. Probably the most interesting remains of Fortuna House are the mosaics and mural paintings.
The name of the house comes from the inscription “Fortuna”, located at the back door. This Latin phrase translates to “Good luck”. Roman houses typically included such inscriptions in the entrance to the home to welcome visitors and warm intruders.
House Fortuna offers a unique opportunity to take a glimpse into lives of Patricians in the Roman Republic. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Roman Forum (I Century AD)
The Roman Forum of a rectangular site located in the center of the city. It measures approximately 100 x 50 meters. The Forum was the center of public life in the city during the Roman period. It was probably built in the 1st century BC and was in use until the 5th century AD. The Roman Forum was used for public speeches, meetings, and other events. Probably the most fascinating thing about this archaeological site is that the excavations never stopped and new artifacts and findings continue to emerge.
The Roman Forum could be observed from Arqueológico Cerro del Molinete Park located on the hill near the site but if you want to learn more about this timeless site you can do so in the Molinete Roman Forum Museum. It is dedicated to the findings that were made in the area, including the Colonial Forum. the Sanctuary of Isis, the Port’s Thermal Baths, and the Atrium building. The museum contains a collection of Roman artifacts that were found in the area, as well as a number of other archaeological items.
The Conception Castle was built in the 13th century by the Order of Calatrava to defend the city from attack. The castle is situated on the top of Conception Hill, overlooking the harbor and the city, which offers probably the best vistas over Cartagena. This site was used as a military base until the early 20th century, but today it is the perfect place to get closer to the history of the city. Before the current Christian castle, here stood a Roman temple dedicated to Asclepius, and a Moorish castle later on.
The area around the Conception Castle is open to all visitors and could be accessed either on foot or by the panoramic lift. The castle itself could be visited for a fee and it offers even more beautiful vistas and some insights into the evolution of the city over more than two millennia.
One of the most pleasant surprises in Cartagena is its modernist architecture from the times of the gold rush in the XIX century. Advancing technologies made ‘depleted’ deposits from the Roman times profitable again, thus many traveled to the areas with high mining potential like Cartagena for a better fortune. At that time the city was partly destroyed during the Cantonal Revolution of 1873 making it a perfect storm for the construction of the new modernist buildings to reflect the sudden riches that Carthaginians experienced at this time. Everything was built in Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles to reflect the prosperity of Cartagena and its inhabitants.
One of the most beautiful buildings from Art Nouveau times – Gran Hotel de Cartagena. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
For recent years I’ve been living in Vienna, which is obviously no stranger to splendid Art Nouveau and Art Deco architecture, but the extravagance found in Cartagena from the XIX and XX centuries doesn’t stop to surprise me. Some buildings, like the Grand Hotel, we’re of course inspired by the modernist Viennese and French architecture. Other notable Art Nouveau masterpieces found in Cartagena include Aguirre Palace, Consistorial Palace, Casa Maestre, Casata Clares, Casa Cervantes, Casa Dorda, Casa Llagostera, Casa Zapata, and the Casino. Exploring the city in search of these masterpieces is a fun thing to do, though it is a bit heartbreaking at the same time because many of their architectural masterpieces are left to ruin, or partly destroyed already. With the current economic status of the city, Carthaginians don’t find a fit for such extravagant buildings.
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Cartagena Streetview
I have to admit, it took me quite a few visits before I started visiting museums. Cartagena is so much fun and rewarding to simply wander around and explore. It is like a book of history itself. See it yourself.
Personal Experience
Undoubtedly, Cartagena is one of my, if not THE favorite cities in the whole country. Nowhere else I have seen so much fascinating and difficult history of the Iberian Peninsula in such a small place. In Cartagena, it is absolutely normal to find Roman, Arab, Christian, and modern in such close proximity, almost on top of each other. The city is like a history book. Cartagena is an absolute must-visit for every culture and history fan, though nature enthusiasts will be surprised by the surrounding nature as well.
Cartagena itself has no beaches but there are spectacular coves and sandy beaches in the surrounding area. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsAll content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Situated in one of the least densely populated regions of the Valencian Community – Alto Maestrazgo, Ares del Maestrat, like the whole area is defined by nature, not by men. One can only wonder what brought the first settlers to this remote and from the first sight unhospitable area. It could be the beauty of nature itself or safety, but note that it is not unusual for Ares del Maestrat to be covered by snow during the colder periods of the year. The usage of firewood was a very common practice until recently. The locals’ livelihood was under nature’s mercy for at least a thousand years.
The raison d’etre of Ares del Maestrat might lie in the name of the settlement with less than 200 inhabitants. As a matter of fact, there are plenty of towns named Ares from the Comtat region (north of Alicante) to the Pyrenees Mountains. Since they seem to be founded on the mountains, scholars link them to the Latin word “Aras” (eng. Altar), not Ares – “the animal”. To understand the reason behind it we must look a bit deeper into the past, to be precise to the times of Romans. It is now known that they made sacrifices to the Gods, most notably Mercury, once Romans passed a mountain pass, like the one at Ares del Maestrat.
Today, relatively few tourists trespass this humble yet grandiose town. Ares del Maestrat is clearly overshadowed by some of the bigger names in the region, making it an even more charming destination. Sightseeing it is like visiting Morella without tourists but maybe Morella is Ares del Maestrat with tourists – you name it.
Best time to visit: May through October, for warm weather hiking and exploring
Map of Ares del Maestrat
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Situated on 1 231 m / 4 039 ft, the castle of Ares del Maestrat only by pure coincidence was conquered by the Christians from Moors in either 1231 or 1232. It must be either the first date or the mountain was a meter taller one thousand years ago. One way or another, Ares del Maestrat is located in a very strategically important place. As a matter of fact, it was the first Castle captured by King Jaime I during the Christian Reconquista of the Iberian Peninsula in the area now considered the Valencian Community.
Later on, it was passed to the almost mythical Order of Templar Knights, and their ‘ban’ to the Order of Montesa. Originally, it is thought that the Moors were the first ones to build a castle here. Still, it wouldn’t surprise me if Gaulic tribes first inhabited the castle-towns like Ares del Maestrat, Culla, and Morella much earlier because these towns look exactly like the Gaulic strongholds, described in Julius Ceasar’s diaries during his brutal conquest of Gaul.
Nevertheless, even with the very widespread ignorance of the Iberian Peninsula’s past before the Spanish Reconquista among the local historians, more serious scholars admit that these areas, including Ares del Maestrat, have been inhabited for a long time. This is proven not only by archeologists but by the cave paintings, most notably in Cova Remígia with over 700 figures created approx 7 000 years ago. These paintings visualize activities like hunting and even honey collecting, which probably speaks of the local crafts during that period.
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Streetview of Ares del Maestrat
Other Things to do in Castellon
From Valencia: Discover Morella and Peñíscola with tickets
Discover two of the most beautiful towns in Spain, Morella and Peñíscola, on a day trip from Valencia.
Given the relatively high amount of Templar or other castles in the area, Ares del Maestrat is almost entirely forgotten. In my opinion, it doesn’t do justice. No other town in the province is elevated at these heights, even Morella. This alone gives Ares del Maestrat an unexpectedly eerie and mesmerizing atmosphere, but given its relatively close location to the coast, the contrast is taunting. Just in one hour, you could get from the buzzing streets of endless tourists to a tiny medieval village, rising more than a kilometer above sea level with nothing but green hills and mountains in the surrounding stunning landscape. The whole town seems to host fewer people than you can find in 20 sq m in some of the more busy towns situated on the coast. It is a truly magical escape from the worst to the best in terms of Spanish authenticity you could get.
A short ride to Ares del Maestrat makes a perfect one-day trip from coastal towns like Bennicasim, Ortopesa, Torrenostra, Alcossebre, or even Peniscola (which is an architectural wonder of its own). You can even combine it with another medieval town-fortress Culla, or if you are quick – Vilafamés, which is listed as one of the top 100 most beautiful villages in Spain. Ares del Maestrat falls short of this list but I’m sure it is just because the Province of Castellon has so much to offer, and you can’t add them all. From my personal experience traveling Spain, Ares del Maestrat is no less attractive than any other small picturesque town found across the country.
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Having traveled all the Mediterranean coastline of mainland Spain (except for some parts of Catalonia), without a second of thought, I would rank Marina Alta as one of the top 3 regions in the country by the sea, only falling behind Maro-Cerro Gordo Cliffs in Costa Tropical, where some of the tallest mountains in Europe, Sierra Nevada meet the Mediterranean. As far as I’m concerned, many parts of inland Marina Alta, keep up to this high standard, making it a truly mesmerizing and exceptional part of Spain.
One might wonder, what’s so special about Marina Alta? First of all, it is rather green. Especially given the rather dry and arid neighborhood this is clearly visible after entering the area. Second, as the name suggests (eng. High Port), the terrain of Marina Alta is very mountainous. As a matter of fact, it is one end of the Baetica Mountains system, which has famous Gibraltar on the other end of it. These mountains shape Marina Alta from the dramatic cliffs on the coastline to mesmerizing small towns entangled in-between the difficult landscape of inland of the region. To put it simply, every part of Marina Alta is worth anybody’s time exploring it. So, if you find yourself spending your vacation in one of the popular coastline towns in Marine Alta like Denia, Javea, or Calpe, a day trip to the inland of the region would be a great idea to diversify your holiday time in Costa Blanca.
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This part of Marina Alta’s countryside is located in the Province of Alicante, entangled between tall mountains and peaceful valleys. The landmarks of the route are interconnected by their historical ties, which will help us to uncover the secrets of various sites from the past and their remote yet exceptionally beautiful locations and local crafts. This route includes some of my favorite parts of Marina Alta inland – there are very few places, where history, mountains, and sea are combined in such a balanced harmony.
Pego is a great example of how the success of a town in Marina Alta depends on its symbiosis with the natural environment. For such a humble town, Pego has a lot to show – you can visit the Ecce-Homo Chapel, the saint of the municipality, the Parish Church of Asuncion with the beautiful Plaza of Townhall nearby, and the Franciscan Convent – these are only the religious sites of Pego. The cultural ones include the Museum of Contemporary Art, the culture center house, and the ethnological museum, which is dedicated to the growth of rice. The most famous landmark in the town is the natural park of Marjal de Pego-Oliva. It is one of the major biodiversity areas in the Mediterranean and the location of the cultivation of rice, that so many people in Pego rely on.
The marsh of Pego-Oliva was granted a natural park status in 1994. These are vast areas of wetlands situated between the edge of the Baetic Mountains, between the Provinces of Alicante and Valencia, and the town of Pego and Oliva, respectively. Its 12 ha are covered by reedbeds, ricefields, and lagoons, all of which are interconnected by various rivers and canals, which results in the area of great natural wealth and productivity. The excellent water quality is not only suitable for endangered species, like Whiskered Tern, the Valencian tooth carp, the marbled teal, and the European pond turtle but in fact, maintains the best-preserved underwater vegetation in all of Spain.
Some say Absudia is among the most beautiful towns in the inland of Marina Alta, but it is Forna Castle that makes this area popular. The name of the town comes from Arabic word meaning “the hermitage”, it obviously shows its Moorish origins, though the oldest archeological evidence of settlement dates back to the Bronze Age, probably of Iberian origin. During the visit, be sure to dedicate some time to explore white Moorish narrow streets of Adsubia, it is the main highlight of the town itself. Some notable landmarks include Church of Saint Vincent Ferrer , a town hall and a public loundry building of Adsubia.
Meanwhile Forna almost couldn’t be more different. Its rich Christian heritage is highlighted by the Templar castle of Forna. Both the town and the castle are in surprisingly good state. In Forna you can also visit Canalobres cave and do some hiking in the nearby mountainous setting. In short, the two towns prooves the very rich variety of both landscape and culture in a very narrow area of Marina Alta.
The valley is separated into eight different urban areas: Benirrama, Beniali, Benissiva, Benitaia, la Carroja, Alpatro, Llombai, and Benissili. Together they form sort of a township on the inner-outer edge of Marina Alta and inter-connecting on an ancient road between Denia and an old capital, Xativa. The Vall de la Gallinera offers truly spectacular panoramic views to its visitors. The idyllic scenery of rural harmony with remote houses in-between cherries, olives, almonds, carrobs and orange trees, and other woods and fields of whom the area is most famous for the first two. The Vall de la Gallinera is proud to be the first area in the whole of Europe to produce cherries every year. The deep agricultural traditions are carved into the surrounding tall stone walls of mountains, forming beautiful terraces and defining the romantic picture of the Vall de la Gallinera. For a brief moment, one could be forgiven for mistaking this exceptional scenery for one of Southeast Asia.
A visit to the Vall d’Alcala will bring you backward in time. You’ll be surprised by the ingenuity of its past visitors. Vall d’Alcala is famous for its Moorish past. In the area, you’ll find two very well-preserved but old refrigerated areas, which served as refrigerators for the people of the past. Another popular tourist destination is L’Atzuvieta – probably the best conserved Moorish village in the Valencian Community. Despite these interesting historical relics, Al-Azraq is the most famous thing to come out of the Vall d’Alcala. The legendary Arab leader was born in the municipality of Alcala de la Jovada, which he loved and fought for against Jaime I. Al-Azraq died in the battle of Alcoy in April 1276, giving birth to one of the most famous festivities in this part of Spain – Moros and Cristianos (Moors and Christians). To this day, it is celebrated in most of the towns in Marina Alta.
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Vall d’Ebo
It is a location of exceptional natural beauty, defined by its picturesque sites like natural pools, potholes and the Barranc del Infern. Above all of them, undoubtedly, the most interesting landmark is Cova del Rull, where you can embrace the beauty of various stalagmite and stalactite formations. There is also Ethnological Museum situated in the area.
Unfortunately, the natural beauty of Vall d’Ebo is still in recovery after the devastating wildfires of 2022. About 12,150 hectares of vegetation were destroyed in a perimeter of 100 km / 62 mi. The number of these wildfires is increasing every year due to increasing days of drought.
Route 2: El Verger – Ondara – Beniarbeig – La Rectoria
Distance: 12 km / 7.45 mi
The connection between these towns and the raison d’etre of this route is Sierra de Segaria – a beautiful mountain range covering 94 000 sq. m with its tallest peak reaching 504 m / 1 653.54 ft. It might sound not that much, but given that the mountain is located 6 km / 3.73 mi from the sea, Sierra de Segaria is one of the most notable landmarks on the coastline of Marina Alta. The mountain separates two beautiful valleys: the Valle de Gallinera and the valley of River Girona.
The evidence and traces found of a major Iberian settlement in this area with the largest portion of the ruins belonging to the municipality of Benimeli. In fact, most of the archaeological remains were found on the hillside close to this town. I expect that the sea level was much closer to Sierra de Segaria 2 500 years ago when the Iberian culture flourished.
El Verger
Being another town on the list of Muslim origins, El Verger remained so even after the Christian conquest. Only after the expulsion of Moriscos, the town had to be repopulated by Christians from Denia, Pego, and Balearic islands. Until modern times, the economy of El Verger was always agriculture. Given its humble history, the town still has something to offer. The points of interest worth attention are the Tower of Duke Medinaceli’s Palace, the Parish Church from 1732, and the Moorish Cremadella Tower dating as far back as the XIII-XIV centuries. While it is situated right next to Sierra Segaria, the most interesting natural feature of El Verger is the all-year-flowing river Girona.
Given the history of the town, it is probably not surprising that the biggest festivity in El Verger is Moros and Cristianos. Other include celebrations in honor of San Roque, San Isidro, and Virgen del Rosario. All are held in August.
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Ondara
Except for Sierra de Segaria, the entire territory of Ondara is practically flat. The foot of this mountain is where we find the earliest footprints of human inhabitants, the Iberians, but it was Muslims who left the biggest fingerprints in Ondara, most notably the irrigation system. After they were expelled in 1609, the area was settled by the Christian people from the Balearic Islands. In the XIX century, Ondara saw growth and restructuration to become a town with a wide variety of services that we know today.
During your trip, be sure to visit the clock tower, locally known as “Torre del Reloj”. It is part of an old Moorish Castle, which had four such towers but only this one remained to see the modern times. The other points of interest are the XVII century Nunnery, the Parish Church from the XVI century, and the in-famous bullring, the only one in the region.
The food traditions in Ondara are very typical for the region combined with the Mediterranean diet and a wide variety of tapas. In July, the town celebrates two important local festivals: one in honor of Virgen de la Soledad (Eng “Loneliness”) and the popular Saint Jaume. Another important festivity in town takes place in November, Ondara Trade Fair, which dates back to 1690.
Beniarbeig
A town of Moorish origins, its more archaic Arabic name was Beniherbey. Today, it is almost just history. After the expulsion of the Moors and later Moriscos, Beniarberg, like most of the settlements in the Valencian Community, fell into a population crisis. Unfortunately, it took much more time for the town to recover than the others. It was repopulated by the Christians only in the 1950s by the people from Andalucia and La Mancha, who were looking for an opportunity. Situated at the foothill of Sierra de Segaria, Beniarberg is surrounded by cultivated orange, almonds, and olive trees. Its urbanization is situated around the main street of Calle Mayor. The parish church of Beniarberg dates back to the XVII century but the most distinctive feature of the town is the all-year constant flow of water in the river Girona. It provides good conditions not only for human settlers but for various species of waterfowl.
La Rectoria
This area of Marina Alta is composed of 5 towns: Sanet y Negrals, Benimeli, El Rafol de Almunia, Sagra, and Tornos. All these peaceful villages share a few things in common: Arab farmsteads’ origins, landscape, and fertile lands. The name “La Rectoria” comes from a religious division that formed after the dismemberment of the rectory of Denia, putting many people of religious service in urgent need of housing. Today, the villages that too in those people form a community.
Situated between two natural marvels of Marina Alta, Sierra de Segaria, and the ever-flowing River Girona, La Rectoria enjoys very fertile land and irrigation systems from the past, making this region perfect for agriculture. One will find many vegetables, and fruits with a specialization in citrus.
Widely associated with various trades and crafts, Gata de Gorgos is a perfect place if you are in need of furniture, decoration, basketry, or traditional food for a very good quality/price ratio. In fact, it is one of the places, known in Spain as “a town of artisans”. These are no mere words, since immemorial times in Gata de Gorgos people have used palms for the craftmanship of baskets and hats. Later, it developed into other industries – at first to various furniture, and later to pottery, ceramics, and glass – creating a local crafts powerhouse.
In the urban center of Gata de Gorgos be sure to visit the XVII century Parish Church of San Miguel and wander through irregular shape streets in the suburb of the Islamic tradition cornered against the Gorgos River. The town houses two permanent sculpture parks as well.
In terms of food, the traditional cocas are the biggest highlight in Gata de Gorgos accompanied by a great variety of rice, stews, and casseroles.
With 7 600 inhabitants, Pedreguer is the most populous town on the list of this route. Big numbers are the most of what this town can be proud of but are not limited to. Pedreguer was first mentioned in 1249, a decade after Christians conquered the region of the territory of the current-day Valencian Community in 1238. Back then, the population of Pedreguer was mainly Islamic, therefore after the expulsion of the Moors in 1609, the town was left almost empty. It was repopulated by the people from the Balearic Islands and to this day the locals could notice particular peculiarities in their speech.
Pedreguer has a wide variety of industries including leather goods, hats, metal manufacturing for a small scale and farming. The best place to buy their craft could be the second-hand market Rastro, which is held every Sunday in the industrial area of Les Galgues.
Hikers should consider the 18 km / 11.18 mi stretch of PR-V53, a circular trail with different levels of difficulty.
Benidoleig
Benidoleig traces its origins to the times of the Moorish people. It was founded originally as one of the Arab farmhouses, installed in the valley of Girona. Benidoleig shares the fate of the region and the town experienced a downfall after the local Moriscos were expelled in 1609. Fortunately, it didn’t take long for the town to bounce back, Benidoleig was repopulated in 1611 by the people from Mallorca. Despite the population change, the design of the town didn’t change much. Its main economy remained agriculture, specializing in dry farming like raisins and citruses.
While in Benidoleig, don’t forget to visit the manor of Finestrat’s Baron, the Parish Church of Sangre de Cristo, and the main attraction in the whole area – Cueva de las Calaveras – 300 m / 984 ft in length and 20 m / 65.61 ft in a height cave system with beautiful domes filled with stalactites and stalagmites.
Orba is another old old town, whose first settlers date back to prehistory and for a good reason. It is situated in a fertile valley protected by mountains – a perfect storm for ancient people. Even the name of the town comes from the Iberian word “Ur-Obia” meaning “where water flows from the bottom of the mountain”, (Having in mind that the Iberian language is yet to be fully translated, I found it very fascinating). Despite Orba’s ancient roots, it was the Moorish conquerors, who based on their agricultural needs, shaped the landscape of the valley into what we know today.
For such a small town, there are quite a few things to do here. Be sure not to miss the parish church and the 16th-century manor house. Foodies shouldn’t miss the local sausages, bakery products, oranges, lemons, almonds, and oils. Orba is also great for souvenirs with its exquisite and authentic pottery and ceramics traditions dating from the Moorish times. The area is also great for hiking and cycling.
This part of Marina Alta consists of four settlements combining a single township, known as La Vall de Laguar. These villages are Benimaurell, Fleix, Campell and Fontilles. Situated deep in Marina Alta, the elevation of these settlements varies from 300 m / 984 ft to 437 m / 1435 ft above sea level. The remote geographical feature of La Vall de Leguar was a natural last stronghold of Valencian Moors after the expulsion in 1609.
Like almost anywhere else in Marina Alta, this area is great for hiking. Places like Barranc de L’Infern, traversed by Girona river, La Sierra del Penyo, or routes trespassing wells and natural springs like the Font del Reinos, Font dels Olbis, Font del Penyo, together with the fountains situated in each settlement.
Traditionally, agriculture was the main economy of the area, but today, it is domestic tourism that has become the main income for the locals. Some rainfed crops still remain, like olives, almonds, and cherry trees.
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Route 4: Vall de Pop
Distance: 25 km / 15.53 mi
The Vall de Pop is animated and fed by Gorgos River, also known as River Xalo, which flows from the mountains around Castell de Castells. The river runs through the towns of Benigembla, Murla, Parcent, and Alcalali, where the valley finally expands and we find Xalo, Lliber, Senija, and Benissa, next to the coastline. The Vall de Pop is an area of great variety: majestic mountains, winding ravines, picturesque grape fields, and coast with cozy coves and dramatic white cliffs.
The Vall de Pop is perfect for active tourism and recreational activities. It has a wide network of hiking trails, which is, undoubtedly, the best way to get the most out of the valley. Sierras de Bernia y Ferrer, la Serella y Xarta, and Gorgos River are the best locations for appreciating the local flora and fauna. Other popular activities include cycling, climbing, paragliding, and kayaking among many others. The Vall de Pop is one of those places, which has something to offer to everybody.
Cultural legacy in the valley goes as deep as it gets – straight to the dawn of humanity in Europe. Cave paintings in the sanctuary Del Pla de Petracos are a part of UNESCO World Heritage site of Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin on the Iberian Peninsula. Also, one can enjoy the rich heritage of Moors like castles and narrow cozy streets that rise and fall below and above dry stone buildings found virtually in every town of the Vall de Pop.
Situated deep in the Vall de Pop, right where the raison d’etre of the whole valley, River Gorgos originates, Castell de Castells feels to be separated from the rest of the world. While it is not the only place in the inland part of Marina Alta that has this feeling, this little cozy town at a privileged location clearly stands out.
The central piece of the town is the Parish Church of Saint Anna. Another important trace of the development of the human race as intelligent species is a set of cave paintings, known as Pla de Petracos and dating back about 8,000 years. Other popular tourist destinations around Castell de Castells, and good opportunities for hiking, are Moorish Castle Penya Castellet, Mount Malla de Llop (1,361 m / 4,365 ft), and Els Arcs, a naturally formed arcs, known as one of the biggest in the whole of Europe of its kind.
Interesting festivals include the lively San Vicente Ferrer, a cultural week starting July 22nd, featuring poetic evenings and traditional dance for all ages. On July 26th, people of the town honor Santa Ana, Castell de Castells’ patron saint, with a magical candlelit procession. But probably the most interesting festivity happens in early September, the enchanting Pla de Petracos fiesta unfolds under twinkling trees, offering music, food, and dancing all night long. The weekend culminates with an open-air paella feast as families come together to celebrate.
Known as the gateway to mountains, Parcent might be the best town for hiking in the whole of Marina Alta. All thanks to its perfect location, where Vall de Pop opens up from a narrow valley between mountains to wide relative lowlands. Nevertheless, probably the most interesting feature of the town is hidden in its name. Unlike most of the towns in Marina Alta, Parcent seems to have Latin origins (Persius or Percennius). It also took an important role in the Moorish rebellions as a Christian stronghold.
Interesting historical monuments include the 16th-century Parish Church of the Immaculate Conception. the house of Gabriel Miro, Cave Paintings of l’Abric del Seguili, the Moorish necropolis in Calle l’Era and a farmhouse from the same period. Popular hikes include Coll de Rates, Font de la Foia, Cim Carrascal, and Cova dels Coloms.
Alcalali
After the reconquest, King James I of Aragon donated Alcalali to Doña Berenguela Alonso de Molina in 1268, but the overseers of the town kept changing. It might have resulted in a rather humble town, but that’s why we love it today. The narrow white streets of Moorish design, The Church of the Nativity of Our Lady, the town hall, and the medieval tower of Alcalali, La Solana Castle – there are plenty of historical buildings to see in Acalali. Today, the town of Alcalali accounts only for one-fourth of the population of the township but the surrounding urbanizations and Llosa de Camacho inflates the numbers. The latter town had been absorbed by Alcalali in the 19th century.
During the spring, Alcalali is known as starting point of the hike through the majestic blooming almonds down the valley towards to Benissa. But that is not the only hike, accessed straight from the town. Situated by the foot of the mountain on the edge of the Vall de Pop, Acalali is perfect for the great outdoors.
The main festivals of the town are held on the 24th and 25th of June in honor of Saint Juan Bautista de Mosquera and the Holy Christ of Health, respectively.
The cradle of Muscat. It is no mere feat knowing that Muscat of Alexandria is considered to be the oldest genetically unchanged grape variety in the world. It was, probably, brought to Spain by Romans or even Carthaginians. Despite having many other cultures in a relatively big and fertile valley, wine very much defines not only the image of Xalo but of the whole Vall de Pop.
Every day, in traditional shops one can find local products like almonds, raisin grapes, honey, oranges, and oil, but Xalo is probably known most for its bodegas with a wide range of local DO wines and traditional liquor made of grapes, known as mistela. Other popular ‘souvenir’ foods from Xalo include various dry sausages and exquisite sweets. The best day to come to town for shopping is undoubtedly Saturday when people from across Marina Alta and beyond gather in Xalo for traditional market day.
Thanks to the fertile lands of Vall de Pop, one can enjoy a rich and diverse cuisine including some better-known various rice dishes, cocas, cous cous and local “espencat”, “minxos”, “la borreta de melva, “the putxero amb pilotes” and “mullador amb bull”.
Benissa
Last but not least, rather the opposite of that. Benissa is not only the most populous town in Marina Alta featured in this article but the fifth most populous in the region taking the coastal settlements as well. This accounts for about 11 thousand inhabitants, which is small but not by Marina Alta standards. Benissa is also one of the oldest towns in the region. Though, the name is of Moorish origins (Beni-Eyce, eng “Sons of Christ), the archeological finds suggest, at least, Roman trespassing in the area around the town.
Benissa houses a large Gothic Church, better known as “Catedral de la Marina”. Hopefully, that doesn’t need a translation or any further explanation. The town is also home to the Franciscan seminary and its old convent from 1645. Other historical points of interest include the square of Old Church, La Lonja, the Town Hall, Riverside figure, and many others.
Benissa enjoys its geographical location between the Mediterranean Sea and mountains. It is well reflected in its culture and kitchen. One of the signature dishes is Octopus stew, known as “Pulpo y mass”, while the town is also known for its sausages and cocas.
The main festivities include the icon “Moors and Christians”, which in Benissa is held on the weekend closest to June 29. Other, “more Christian” celebrations include the patron saint festivity dedicated to Immaculate Xiqueta on the last Sunday of April, and a fair in honor of Saint Anthony in January among others.
Most Popular Activities in Marina Alta
Dénia: Sunset Catamaran Cruise
Join us in Puerto Dénia for an unforgettable sunset catamaran cruise filled with music and cava!
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Nestled in the province of Castellon in the region of Valencia lies one of the truly charming villages of Spain – Morella. Known as one of the top 100 most beautiful villages in the country and one of the most beautiful towns in Castellon and the whole of Valencia, Morella is a hidden gem to outsiders’ eyes waiting to be discovered.
Its location, perched high on a rocky hill, has given Morella strategic importance throughout its long existence. This is evident once you see the impressive castle of the town, a dominant feature of Morella, which has played a crucial role in protecting the town’s inhabitants and its cultural heritage. Another striking feature of Morella is its location on a high plateau. One might not notice at first but except for agriculture and roads, there are no signs of any human activities or settlements around the town. This becomes very obvious from Morella’s walls and towers during the night. It is pitch black.
The town is not just a beautiful and historic town, however. It is also a place of warmth and hospitality, where visitors are welcomed with open arms. Morella’s streets are lined with whitewashed buildings adorned with balconies, and its plazas are lively gathering places for locals and visitors alike. There is always something happening in the town, from traditional fiestas and cultural events to weekly markets and fairs. With this article I hope to unveil this unknown tourist destination to foreign visitors to Spain, highlighting Morella’s rich history, culture, local foods, and most interesting landmarks.
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History of Morella
Morella’s history is as rich and varied as the layers of stone in its castle walls. Unfortunately, this came not from goodwill but from necessity. The town’s origins can be traced as far back as the Bronze Age when the Iberian peoples inhabited the area. Later, the Greeks and then the Romans established a settlement here, which was known as Morviedro. The Visigoths conquered the town in the 5th century, followed by the Moors in the 8th century. Its complicated history is hard to uncover but one thing is for sure – everyone saw it as one of the crown jewels in their list of trophies.
“Morella is not a place for any man in the world, but for a king, because it was worth as much as a county with its possessions.” – King Jaime I
During the Middle Ages, Morella became an important frontier town, situated between the Christian and Muslim kingdoms. The town was heavily fortified, and its castle played a crucial role in protecting the town’s inhabitants from attacks. In the 13th century, the troops under King James I of Aragon conquered Morella and incorporated it into his kingdom. During the following centuries, it prospered as a center of agriculture and trade. It was also an important political center, falling in influence only after Valencia and Xativa. Morella’s Gothic church of Santa Maria was built during this time, as were many of the town’s other important buildings.
You don’t have to be a genius to notice that Morella’s rich history is reflected in its many historical landmarks and cultural events. Visitors can explore the town’s castle, churches, and other important buildings, and learn about the town’s fascinating past. Morella’s historical legacy is a testament to the town’s enduring spirit and its determination to preserve its cultural heritage for future generations.
Morella is also known for hosting one of the most important festivals in the Valencian Community and one of the oldest festivals in Spain – Sexenio. It is expected to attract between 100,000-200,000 visitors within a span of 10 days in 2024. It so happens, that the festival happens only every 6 years and if you miss one, you might not get a chance for a second time. Due to its importance, the whole town got a cyclical rhythm of 6 years awaiting and preparing for the celebration of Sexenio. As a matter of fact, translated from Spanish “Sexenio” means “six-year term”, so its frequency shouldn’t surprise Spanish speakers. Originally it was celebrated on the third Sunday of August but the festival has expanded over the years. The next Sexenio de Morella is going to happen in 2024, August 17-26.
It all began on February 14, 1673, when by the popular request of the people, the council of Morella declared that every six years the town will hold a celebration in honor of the Virgin of Vallivana out of gratitude for what she’ve done for Morella and its inhabitants. 1672 was a terrible year for the town. A terrible plague was ravaging Morella. Many died, and many more would have if it was not for the Virgin. When she arrived to the town, the Virgin of Vallivana was carefully assisted throughout the sick streets of Morella, and wherever she went, people got cured. For modern people, this must sound like a miracle but I believe that back then Morellans had no doubt of the powers of the Virgin. Therefore, Sexenio every six years is a thanksgiving to the savior of the town and its people.
During the festival, the town is transformed with colorful decorations over every balcony and window within its limits. It is accompanied by constant traditional dancing and lively music. One of the main highlights of the festival is the procession of the “giants and big-heads”, which consists of giant puppets and people wearing oversized masks and costumes. In addition to the festive celebrations, the Sexenio de Morella also includes traditional religious ceremonies and cultural events. That is the raison d’etre of the festival after all. Sexenio is an important part of the town’s cultural heritage and is a time for the people of Morella to come together and celebrate their history and traditions. Visiting Morella during the Sexenio festival might be a good time to learn more about the unique character of this lovely yet mysterious town.
Besides its medieval and eerie streets of the Old Town, Morella has some historical landmarks to visit that stand out from the rest and at the same time fill in the whole picture just perfectly. Its history and geographical location shape its image. Being a strategically important fortress and town, Morella’s fortifications clearly stand out, but at the same time its location in, sometimes, a very harsh northeastern part of the Iberian mountain system, put the inhabitants of the town at the mercy of some higher powers. Churches are plentiful.
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The most iconic historical landmark and attraction in Morella is, of course, the castle that sits atop a hill overlooking the town and offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside of Els Ports. The history of this castle is basically the history of Morella itself.
The current castle dates back to the 13th century and has served as a military stronghold, a royal residence, and a prison. Today, visitors to Morella can explore the castle’s walls, towers, and courtyards, and take in the stunning views of the surrounding countryside. The castle’s museum houses an impressive collection of archaeological finds, medieval weaponry, and historical artifacts that provide a fascinating glimpse into Morella’s past.
Based on historian Marqués de Lozoya opinion, Santa Maria minor basilica is the most beautiful gothic church in the region of Valencia. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Basilica de Santa Maria la Mayor
This Gothic-style church is located in the heart of Morella’s historic center and dates back to the 14th century. The church features impressive stained-glass windows, intricate stonework, and a large bell tower that can be climbed for views of the town. In 1958 it was granted a status of a minor basilica. Some say it is the most beautiful gothic church in the region of Valencia.
Besides Morella castle and its walls, the Portal de Sant Miquel is the most distinctive historical landmark of the town. Constructed in the 14th century with an imposing stone arch and intricate carvings, it leads straight into the old town of Morella. The portal was originally part of the town’s defensive walls and served as an important entrance for travelers and traders. Most of the visitors will enter Morella through this portal straight into the narrow streets of the old town, where they can explore the many shops, restaurants, and historic buildings that make Morella such a popular destination.
This 14th-century Gothic-style old convent of Franciscan monks today is home to a museum that showcases the history and culture of Morella and its surrounding region. The museum includes exhibits on local crafts, traditional dress, and religious art. At the moment, it is closed down for renovation works but still, I found it one of the more interesting landmarks in the town.
Besides being an interesting historical landmark, the aqueduct offers great vistas. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Aqueduct of Santa Lucia
At first sight, the structure might remind of a Roman-style aqueduct but actually, it dates back to the times millennia later, in the 14th century. In some sense, it somewhat makes it a more interesting historical landmark as Romans probably were better builders than Christians from this era. The Aqueduct of Santa Lucia consists of a series of arches and pillars, and is definitely an impressive feat of engineering that has stood the test of time. Like all aqueducts, it was built to supply water to the town from nearby springs. Visitors can hike along a path that follows the aqueduct to trace its origins, the route offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside and a unique perspective on this historic structure.
The main streets of Morella are filled with stores selling local crafts and products. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Local Products & Gastronomy
Besides its stunning appearance, Morella is known for its delicious local products and gastronomy, which reflect the region’s agricultural and culinary traditions. Terroir plays very well into the delicious products and traditional dishes of the town. You can predict what you’ll find on the menu of any given restaurant or tapas bar in Morella from the landscape’s panorama from the tall town’s walls. Morella is famous for its almonds, milk products, meats, dry meats, sausages, truffles, honey, and other foods, generally, listed as ‘land kitchen’. which can be found in local markets and shops. Visitors of Morella can sample these staple foods or the town’s traditional dishes almost anywhere in town, among the most popular are flaons. One can’t leave Morella without trying these gems. They could be acquired almost anywhere in town, most notably in one of the numerous bakeries. Real yummy.
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Morella is a charming and authentic destination that offers visitors a taste of traditional Spain. With its rich history and culture, delicious local products and gastronomy, and stunning natural scenery, Morella is a hidden gem worth exploring. As a golden rule, the status of one of the most beautiful towns in Spain guarantees an exceptional experience and breathtaking dramatic sceneries. Nevertheless, despite being located less than an hour from the ever-busy Mediterranean coast of the region of Valencia, Morella gained the reputation it deserves only among the local tourists from Aragon, Valencia, and beyond.
I especially enjoyed the calm setting of the inland Castellon in early spring, when Almonds were blooming. Morella is surrounded by hundreds of these iconic and typical Spain trees.
Whether you are a history buff, a foodie, or an outdoor enthusiast, Morella has something to offer for everyone. So pack your bags and head to Morella for an unforgettable Spanish adventure.
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Sevilla is a fabulous city in the southern region of Andalucia in Spain. This exceptionally beautiful city has a very rich culture and history, its layers could be discovered in-between the streets of different cosy districts. The most notable period of Seville is the one that the city is the most famous, or infamous, for. The Andalucian Capital flourished in 16-18th, thanks to the discovery of the New World by Christopher Columbus in 1492.
Today, the town is a major tourist destination, andhome to many historic buildings and monuments. Due to its involvement with the Americas, Seville is noticeably much more popular with tourists from across the Atlantic. A visit to the old city is a must, especially the Plaza de Espana and the Alcazar Palace. The nightlife here is fantastic and the food is delicious. Plan to stay here for at least a few days, you’ll enjoy your time here.
Despite all the historic landmarks, it is the charm of its streets that makes Seville. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Seville History
The first settlers in what is now Seville were the Celts, who founded the city of Hispalis (modern-day Seville) in the 3rd century BCE. The Romans conquered the city in the 2nd century BCE and renamed it Hispalis. The city flourished under Roman rule and was made the capital of the province of Baetica. It was an important commercial centre and a base for the Roman navy. In the 5th century CE, the city was conquered by the Visigoths and renamed Spal. The city was sacked by the Vandals in the 6th century and was conquered by the Arabs in the 8th century. They renamed the city Ishbiliya and made it the capital of Al-Andalus. Seville flourished under Arab rule and became a major cultural and intellectual centre.
The Christians reconquered the city in 1248, turning Seville into a key part of the Crown of Castile. As a result, the city’s economy flourished. In the 14th century, Seville experienced a brief Golden Age, with the construction of several important landmarks, such as the Gothic Cathedral and the current form of the Alcázar Palace.
In 1481, a major outbreak of plague killed thousands of people, but the discovery of the New World in 1492 was the precursor to another prosperous period for the city. In 1503 Seville was chosen as the home for Casa de Contratación, which was the official Spanish trading house responsible for the regulation of colonial trade and emigration from Spain to the Americas. Being the only option to reach or trade with the Americas, resulted in merchants pouring to Seville from all across Europe.
In the 17th century, the city declined in importance as Madrid eclipsed it as the new capital of Spain. However, Seville remained an important cultural center, and it was home to a number of notable writers, artists, and musicians.
Torre del Oro is one of the most visited landmarks in Seville, it was built by the Almohad dynasty in order to control access to Seville via the Guadalquivir river. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The decline of Seville continued in the 18th century as the result of silting of the Guadalquivir River, which made navigating the river much more difficult. Most of the trade had to be moved to the nearby port by the Atlantic Ocean – Cadiz. Despite that, surprisingly, the Port of Sevilla is still operational and is located, on the left bank of the Guadalquivir River in the city. The port is Andalusia’s largest river port, as well as Spain’s fourth-largest inland port. It handles approximately 10 million tonnes of cargo per year.
Map of Seville
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Guadalquivir River is one of those natural bodies that has shaped the existence and the development of the Civilizations throughout their existence in the area. It is the longest river in Andalucia and the fifth-longest in the Iberian Peninsula, flowing out from the Sierra Morena mountains in Andalusia. Guadalquivir River passes through the cities of Córdoba and Seville before finally reaching the Atlantic Ocean at the Gulf of Cádiz.
Seville was founded on the banks of Guadalquivir River, and for centuries it was the only way to reach the city from the sea. There is no better way to explore and understand the origins of Seville than a boat tour on the Guadalquivir. During the tour, it is possible to visit some of the most important monuments of Seville, such as the Torre del Oro, the Cathedral, the Giralda, the Reales Atarazanas, and the Plaza de España and the Isla Mágica theme park.
The Alcázar of Seville is a royal palace in Seville but it was built as a fortress in the 11th century, on the site of the former palace of the Moorish ruler Abbad II. The palace was extended and remodelled in the 14th century by Pedro I of Castile, and it was further altered in the 15th century by his son, Henry IV. The palace was used as a royal residence until the early 19th century, when it was converted into a military barracks. It is the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe. The Alcázar was reopened to the public in 1931, and it is now one of the most popular tourist attractions in Seville.
I haven’t seen the Royal Alcázar of Seville without long queue lines for tickets. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Alcázar is built in the Moorish style, with a mix of Christian and Islamic influences. The exterior of the palace is decorated with intricate patterns of tiles, known as azulejos. The interior of the palace is sumptuously decorated with tapestries, paintings, and carved woodwork. The palace has a number of gardens, including the famous Courtyard of the Lions, which is home to a number of marble lions. The Alcázar of Seville is one of the most beautiful examples of mudéjar architecture, and it is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
The vast area around the largest cathedral in the world, made me feel like in Vienna. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Seville Cathedral & La Giralda
The Seville Cathedral (Spanish: Catedral de Santa María de la Sede de Sevilla) is the largest Gothic cathedral and the third-largest church in the world. It is also the largest cathedral in the world, as well as the largest church in the world that is not a basilica. It is the seat of the Archbishop of Seville. The cathedral is also known as the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See.
The exterior of the cathedral is characterized by its large size and its lavish decoration. The western facade is dominated by a huge carved relief of the Last Judgment. The interior of the cathedral is equally impressive, with a vast nave that is supported by numerous pillars. The nave is decorated with a number of frescoes, and the altar area is home to a number of sculptures, including a statue of the Virgin Mary. The southern side of the cathedral features a large rose window, while a massive tower dominates the north side. The tower is better known as Giralda and together with the Seville Cathedral, it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Spain, and is one of the most visited buildings in the world.
The Giralda is the bell tower of the Cathedral of Seville. It was registered in 1987 as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO along with the Alcazar and the General Archive of the Indies. The Giralda is the fitting symbol of the city of Seville, as it is its most recognizable monument. It is the former minaret of the Great Mosque of Seville which was converted into a bell tower after the city’s reconquest by the Christians in 1248. The Giralda was originally built in 1184 in Almohad architectural style. The tower is one of the most important examples of Moorish architecture in Spain. At the time of its construction, it was the tallest minaret in the world with a height of 97.5 m / 320 ft.
The Giralda has a square base with four arches on each side. These arches are decorated with intricate carvings and inscriptions. The Giralda has 35 bells and the tower has three levels: The first level has a series of arches which lead to the second level; The second level has a series of balconies which provide views of the city; The third level has the bells. Visitors can climb to the top of the Giralda for a fee, which is also included in the combi-ticket to the Cathedral of Seville.
Parque de María Luisa is a public park that lies at the heart of Seville, together with a number of important landmarks, including the Royal Palace, the Cathedral of Seville, and the Alcazar. The area was declared Bien de Interés Cultural in 1993. The park was established in 1893 with the new and modern additions to the park were constructed for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition which was held in Seville. That includes the famous Plaza de España, which took almost 15 years to be completed (1914 and 1928). It is a landmark example of the mix of Moorish, Baroque and Renaissance Revival styles in Spanish architecture.
The Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions is a relatively unpopular architectural masterpiece in the corner of Parque de María Luisa. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Plaza de España
The Plaza de España complex is a huge half-circle with buildings continually running around the edge accessible over the moat by numerous bridges representing the four ancient kingdoms of Spain. Inside the plaza, there is a vast park with numerous fountains, gardens, and a monumental fountain at its center. The Plaza de España was featured prominently in the film Lawrence of Arabia, and more recently in Star Wars: Episode II.
Today, Plaza de España is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Seville and is one of the most photographed spots in the city. The plaza is located in the heart of the city and is home to a number of important landmarks, including the Royal Palace, the Cathedral of Seville, and the Alcazar. The plaza is also a popular spot for locals and visitors alike to enjoy the city’s many festivals and events.
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Triana
The origins of the district of Triana in Seville date back to the Moorish period of the city’s history. The name Triana is derived from the Arabic word for “three”, and refers to the three main quarters of the district: Santa Cruz, San Marcos and San Lorenzo. The district was home to a large community of Moors, who were forcibly converted to Christianity following the city’s capture by the Christians in 1248.
During the centuries that followed, Triana became an important centre for trade and commerce, as well as a hub for flamenco and bullfighting. The district is also famous for its ceramics, which have been produced here since the 16th century.
In the 20th century, Triana was the scene of some of the most violent clashes between the police and anti-government protesters during the Spanish Civil War. The district was also home to a large number of Republican refugees during the Franco regime.
Today, Triana is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Seville, thanks to its vibrant atmosphere and its many historical and cultural attractions.
Setas de Sevilla reminds of mushrooms and it is exactly how the name of it translates – mushrooms of Seville. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Personal Experience
There is no correct answer to the list of must-visit cultural and architectural landmarks in Seville. One thing I’m sure of is despite what you choose to do during your stay in the city, Seville will surprise you with its richness that could only be found in the Capital of Empires. In no other city in Spain, you’ll feel such a powerful nostalgic aura reminiscent of the greatest times for the country, during the conquest of the New World. These, of course, were catastrophic events for the local peoples of the Americas, but here in the Old Continent, Seville was among those who profited the most. Those events were tragic, but remember that all the centers of Empires are built at the expense of other peoples.
Today, it is important to remember the history of Seville while embracing its magnificence and rich cultural impact. It has seen many Empires rise and fall but the city surpassed them all. Seville is a must-visit for every enthusiast of history or culture.
For the longest time, the sun and the sea were all that was required for tourists to pour in from all over Europe and beyond. But as the times shift, so do the needs of people, and with these changes, Benidorm has adapted to meet the needs of its visitors. Today, many interesting destinations within a day-trip distance from the city attract hundreds if not thousands of tourists daily. Looking for engaging activities for its visitors, Benidorm has pushed the nearby places to hit above their weight. Not to say that they are not worth the attention, but some destinations have become so popular that they have started to attract local people from other regions of Spain whereas I can bet there is plenty to see on the same level at least as well.
In short, with time, Benidorm has made a fortune not only for itself but for Marina Baixa in general. In this article, you’ll find the five places you should visit from Benidorm before you start looking somewhere else. If you are more of a nature-lover, I would suggest reading my guide to the best hikes near Benidorm.
Marina Baixa is one of the most beautiful comarcas in the Valencian Community and around. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Map of Places & Hikes Around Benidorm
Altea
Known as the Pearl of Costa Blanca, Altea might be sometimes somewhat overshadowed by Benidorm in the realms of popular tourism but this beautiful town was a name on the map for a longer duration than Benidorm. There is a reason why it has even its own model of SEAT – Spanish automobile manufacturer – Altea is a historical powerhouse in the area and it is well reflected by its cozy white-washed architecture. While it might not be that special in the context of Andalucia, here in the Valencian Community, the white village, Altea shines from afar. That alone is more than enough to attract piles of tourists from Benidorm, Alicante, and much further. Altea is one of those places in the region that doesn’t need an extra advertisement push to make a living. It is a well-worth day trip from Benidorm and around.
Down south in Andalucia, Alta wouldn’t surprise that many people, but here in the Valencian Community, the white village is a true gem. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The name of the town probably comes from the Greek word ‘I heal’. The Greeks had quite a few settlements around the coast of the Mediterranean and Altea was one of them. During the Moorish reign, the town was a part of the Kaifa of Denia. After the Christian Reconquista Altea was quickly fortified with the surrounding walls, which mark the boundaries of the old town to this day. In the last century, the economic and social life has moved to the seaside, where it remains today. That leaves the historical center of Altea open for exploration. Undoubtedly, you’ll fall in love with this town while exploring its endless medieval streets decorated with colourful flowers, Iberian tiles and endless white walls, which this town is famous for.
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El Castell de Guadalest
The crown jewel of the area – Guadalest is probably the most sought one day trip in Marina Baixa. It is the only town in Alicante Province listed among the 100 most beautiful villages in Spain and that is not the only decorated title of this magical village. In 2016 Guadalest has joined the Federation of the most beautiful villages in the world. Hopefully, at this time you are already wondering what is so special about Guadalest?
This charmful town is located up in the Baetic mountains range, not too far from the legendary Puig Campana, by the river Guadalest, which is now transformed into a giant beautiful water reservoir, which looks like a large mountain lake – the Italian equivalent would be Lake Como and Lake Garda. The town of Guadalest offers not only spectacular vistas over the reservoir but the surrounding mountains and the Mediterranean Sea! Of course, its natural beauty is not the main reason of Guadalest’s acknowledgement, without its unique placement it could be any other town in the area.
The old town of this beautiful town is located on a small plateau on top of a rock. This limited area proved to be enough for a castle, a church, a palace, a town square, and one one-street village. Today, we can see that throughout the ages Guadalest has managed to expand beyond the rock, the city is interconnected through a gate carved out in the rock itself. Everything combined, Guadalest is a true unicorn not only near Benidorm but in the Valencian Community overall. It is an obvious must-visit from Benidorm.
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Algar Waterfalls
Freshwater is one thing that seems to be lacking in sunny Spain, especially in dry areas like the Province of Alicante. For that reason alone, waterfalls in general gain extra interest compared to the countries up north. Without a doubt, the Algar Waterfalls are the most popular waterfalls in the area around Benidorm. As a matter of fact, it was the Benidorm ITVs series that turned this natural wonder into a popular tourist destination after an appearance in one of the episodes. Today, together with Guadalest, the Algar Waterfalls are the most popular one day trip destinations from Benidorm.
Joanbanjo, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
On your trip to this in-land paradise, you’ll get a chance to explore the beautiful area around this natural phenomenon on your own. There will be plenty of time to see the most picturesque vistas, and test yourself in the cold waters of many ponds surrounding the waterfalls, and you don’t even have to worry about bringing drinks and food as there are plenty of restaurants and bars on site. Everything combined, the Algar Waterfalls is a perfect one-day getaway destination to nature with all the infrastructure you might need.
Personally, I think, Marina Alta is the most beautiful region in the Province of Alicante. Located on the border with the Province of Valencia, Marina Alta is like a mountain wall with its cliffs facing the Mediterranean sea. As a matter of a fact, this is where the Baetic Mountains end, stretching across the Spanish coastline up to Gibraltar itself. The terrain of Marina Alta is so mountainous that the area has a different climate, with often milder temperatures and more rainfall. This results in a much richer flora compared to the agricultural or desertifying areas of the other areas surrounding Benidorm.
Benissa and Teulada-Moraira is probably the best-kept secret of Marina Alta, it is often over-shadowed by the very popular Denia and exclusive Javea. Despite all the advantages of the regional powerhouses, Benissa and Teulada-Moraira can stand on their own with their strengths and wonders. Whether it is the white cliffs facing the Mediterranean, the ancient Iberian settlements, even more, ancient human-cradle caves or probably the most beautiful beaches Spain has to offer, Benissa and Teulada-Moraira is always full of surprises. This area of Marina Alta is a great way to run away from the ever-busy Benidorm to the island-like remote nature for a day.
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Valencia City
Sure Benidorm has a big city feeling but it is nothing compared to a juggernaut like Valencia. The influence of this regional Capital extends far beyond the community, Valencia is the third biggest city in Spain and is classed in a different weight category than the nearby Alicante. While it is possible to reach the latter city from Benidorm by train, Valencia is not that well connected. Luckily, there are plenty of coaches offering their services to comfortably transfer you to and from Valencia.
On your day trip to Valencia, you’ll get a chance to learn more about this regional Capital from an English-speaking driver to make the most of your journey. Valencia is a very big city and there are plenty of things to do, so be sure to plan your visit we’ll. Among the top things to do in Valencia are its old town with the beautiful cathedrals, churches, and the Roman and Arabic city walls. Maestalla stadium is a must-visit for soccer fans, while foodies will love their visit to the central market. It is a sin to visit Valencia without trying out the local favourite food – paella, just don’t forget to bring friends because it is often sold only for 2 people and more. There is probably no better place to enjoy your paella than the beautiful promenade by the sea in El Cabanyal.
The buildings of Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias could be mistaken for alien ships that landed on Earth. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Finally, don’t forget to visit the City of Arts and Science – a true contemporary architectural masterpiece. This area has quickly become the symbol of Valencia and includes the biggest aquarium in Europe. I will not even go into the rich history of Valencia, which is one of the oldest cities in the country, there is simply too much to do within one day in this beautiful Spanish city but it is well worth a shot.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Gibraltar of Valencia, the most underrated town in Spain, the city in the sea, as interesting as it is, Peniscola gets many different names for many different reasons. It is not unjustified, the town has a very interesting history. Throughout the ages, many different factions found Peniscola as their home: Iberians, Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Knights Templar, and, finally, the famous Antipope Benedict XIII, locally known as Papa Luna, found refuge until his death in 1423. Peniscola castle was a suitable fortress for the declining religious leader, who out-of-fear of being attacked, reinforced this stronghold even further. The original constructions of the keep are attributed to the Templars, but they built it on the top of a Moorish Castle, which was probably built on an even older fortress.
As a result, it is hard to tell which came first: Peniscola or Gibraltar, thus the name “The Gibraltar of Valencia” might be unfair. The name is rather due to the wide knowledge of Gibraltar. It feels like every fortification on a huge rock by the sea is called “the Gibraltar of something” these days. Meanwhile, Peniscola is relatively unknown to mainstream international tourism. Despite that, the town has a lot of visitors. It is nowhere close to being underrated, rather marks a blind spot of the English-speaking community. One way or another, Peniscola has a lot to show off, and knowingly or unknowingly, most of its visitors will be pleasantly surprised by the city in the sea. There is so much hidden underneath the bricks of Peniscola Castle that it might be a wise idea to hire a local guide to get the most of it.
Though the shape of the fortress is still intact, one can only truly visit Peniscola Castle using imagination. Only the rocks remain of what once a great castle with beautiful gardens and frescoes. Most of the fortress was restored and even some walls were added for the shooting of Anthony Mann’s movie “El Cid”. Today, Peniscola Castle is a popular tourist destination and righteously so. All thanks to an exceptionally rich history and the continuous appearances in the popular culture, including the iconic George R. R. Martin’s “Game of Thrones”.
The artillery park and the modern gardens of castle join the medieval walls with renaissance ones. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
3D map of Peniscola historical city.During his residence, Papa Luna transformed the typical medieval Templar courtyard into papal gardens. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
How to get to Peniscola?
Peniscola is located in the northern part of the Valencian Community – Province of Castellon, just below Ebro delta in Catalonia. The famous Spanish Mediterranean motorway AP-7 is situated right next to the town.
Car is the recommended way of getting around in these parts of Spain. Check the map for the available parking locations.
During the peak times, the closest parking to Peniscola Castle is almost always full. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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By train
There are local and inter-regional trains, connecting the Valencian Community with Barcelona and Cartagena, running by Peniscola. Unfortunately, the closest train station is located in the neighboring town, Benicarlo.
By bus
There is an intercity public bus running between Peniscola – Benicarlo – Vinaros. You can find the timetables here.
By car
Despite the direction you are coming from, Peniscola could be either approached by AP-7 motorway or N-340. Roads CV-141 and CV-140 connect the town to the motorways.
Peniscola is a little authentic oasis in the very touristic Mediterranean coast of Spain. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
History of Peniscola
There are so many historic layers to Peniscola that often much of it is left out in mainstream tourism. Among examples of stories, which would be advertised almost anywhere else in Spain is the legend of Hannibal swearing an oath to his father, Hamilcar Barca, to never be friends with Romans; Nor nobody talks about the mythical Greeks, to whom the name origins of Peniscola is accredited to – Chersonesos – the Greek word for peninsula; For more than 500 years, Moors also had a castle here and referred to it as Baniskula. Those times must have had some great stories as well; And finally, almost anybody ever talks about the first settlers of the area – the iconic Iberian. During their reign, I imagine it was more of a natural wonder coupled with their shrines to appreciate the beauty of the whole magical setting.
Whichever period you choose, it always appears that Peniscola captured the attention of people, there is no reason to assume that it wouldn’t capture yours. If you want to learn even more about the history of Peniscola, consider hiring a local guide for your tour to the castle and artillery park.
The building known as the ‘Polvorin’ belonged to the Castle during the period of Knights Templar and was used as Templar tank. Now it is fully covered by seashells. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Templar Order in Peniscola
During an exchange of holdings in Tortosa, in 1294 Peniscola was peacefully transferred from the Kingdom of Aragon to Templars Order to help protect the area from Muslims and pirates.
The mighty Romanesque fortress of Peniscola was built between 1294 and 1307 by the Knights Templar, the same year they were evicted and arrested by James II of Aragon under the orders of Avignon Pope Clement V. The timing was such that the Order probably felt what was coming and built the castle in Peniscola as their final refuge. The fortress remained the main command center of the Knights Templar Order until 1312 when the same Pope disbanded the order under the pressure of King Phillip IV of France.
The romanesque room was used by all of its masters for receptions, hearings and solemn acts. Its ceiling is still reminiscent of its past with Templar symbols and iron rings, which used to hold lamps. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
After the Templar Order got dissolved, King James II of Aragon persuaded Pope John XXII to let him reorganize the properties of the former order in Aragon and Valencia as a frontier of defenses of the Christian domain against Moors and pirates in the Iberian Peninsula. Although the main base moved to Montesa Castle, Peniscola remained under the banner of the newly formed Order of Montesa.
Anitopope Benedict XIII transformed the second level of Peniscola Castle as his headquarters. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Papa Luna of Peniscola
Other than the Templar Order, Papa Luna (Antipope Benedict XIII) was the other popular figure to find its final refuge in the castle of Peniscola. In 1411, due to his persistence and refusal, the Antipope got expelled from the Christian Church, after which he moved from Perpignan to Peniscola. Benedict XIII converted Knights Templar Castle to his Papal seat, making it the third Holy See in the world together with Avignon and Rome.
In 1406 Pope Gregory XII, situated In Rome, offered Papa Luna to resign together to elect a new Pope, who would reunite Christians, but he was stubborn and throughout his life, the rogue Pope never stopped believing that he is the only true reign to be the Head of the Christian world. During his life in Peniscola Castle, Papa Luna worked tirelessly to protect his rights and position as legitimate Pope, leaving a body of written work that was his final legacy of colorful life. Benedict XIII lived in Peniscola Castle until he died in 1423.
The Fortress remained the Papal seat to his successor, Antipope Clement VIII, who after an agreement with Rome, agreed to abandon his positions in favor of recognizing Pope Martin V. That terminated the remains of Avignon Papacy and ended the saga which officially destroyed the legendary Templar Order. Though the fruits of their knowledge and skills remain to this day.
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King Phillip IV of France
Personally, it feels to me like King Phillip IV of France was the main antagonist of this whole historical period, and he turned out as a clear winner. He owned large sums of money to both Knights Templar and Jews and decided to get rid of both with the excuse of them being a state within a state. Seeing the end of the most powerful order of Crusaders was no easy task. As a result, King Phillip IV of France had to confront the Pope itself, which resulted in a victory against the Holy See and Papal clergy transfer to the enclave of Avignon, just under the wing of the victorious King. As I mentioned before, both the Knights Templar and the line of Popes and Antipopes, originated from Avignon, met their end in Peniscola Castle. King Phillip IV of France came out on top of all religious institutions.
The actual name of the town, Peniscola, comes from a local evolution of the Latin word “Peninsula”. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Bastion of Rennaisance
The city in the sea got its final iconic shape and fortifications during the Renaissance. In 1563, during the reign of Felipe II, an Italian architect J. B. Antonelli visited Peniscola and projected the current form of the fortress. It was a modern type of fortification, many haven’t heard the word “bastion” before the transformation. It was constructed in a shadow of a possible confrontation with another superpower at the time – the Ottoman Empire. Luckily, Peniscola Castle never got to experience the battle it was built for.
Some tunnels from artillery park lead to the old castle port – Porteta, others – outside the walls. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Due to limited space, the architect had to be creative. The internal vaults were used to establish arsenals, mess halls, and munitions dump. These areas were used to house a school for children between 1912 and 1971. The spaces of gunboats were used as windows of the classrooms.
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Personal Experience
While I have heard that Peniscola is an exceptionally beautiful and interesting town, I didn’t expect it to have such a rich history. Combined with the authenticity, it was a pleasant surprise. Peniscola is like a gust of fresh air along the coast full of hotels and various entertainment facilities, which have emerged only in relatively recent years to support the growing tourism. The mild weather and warm sea on the Mediterranean coastlines of Spain is the main attraction for most of the visitors, therefore it is a sweet treat to find such a historic bastion for a change.
The experience of visiting the castle itself was no ordinary tour to any given museum of similar origins. While the very heart of the city is a part of the fortress, the very tip of it on Peniscola rock oversees it all. The area surrounding the castle sorts out in front of your eyes like a map. No surprise, the Knights Templar, Antipope Benedict XIII, and many others, having as many enemies as they had, found Peniscola as a natural spot for a fortress. As a result, Peniscola is a very rich and picturesque tourist destination – for sure worth a day-visit or more.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
