Tag: Geopolitics

Geopolitics – study of international relations through geographical variables

  • Peniscola, Valencia Travel Guide to Castle & History

    Peniscola, Valencia Travel Guide to Castle & History

    About Peniscola

    The Gibraltar of Valencia, the most underrated town in Spain, the city in the sea, as interesting as it is, Peniscola gets many different names for many different reasons. It is not unjustified, the town has a very interesting history. Throughout the ages, many different factions found Peniscola as their home: Iberians, Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Knights Templar, and, finally, the famous Antipope Benedict XIII, locally known as Papa Luna, found refuge until his death in 1423. Peniscola castle was a suitable fortress for the declining religious leader, who out-of-fear of being attacked, reinforced this stronghold even further. The original constructions of the keep are attributed to the Templars, but they built it on the top of a Moorish Castle, which was probably built on an even older fortress.

    As a result, it is hard to tell which came first: Peniscola or Gibraltar, thus the name “The Gibraltar of Valencia” might be unfair. The name is rather due to the wide knowledge of Gibraltar. It feels like every fortification on a huge rock by the sea is called “the Gibraltar of something” these days. Meanwhile, Peniscola is relatively unknown to mainstream international tourism. Despite that, the town has a lot of visitors. It is nowhere close to being underrated, rather marks a blind spot of the English-speaking community. One way or another, Peniscola has a lot to show off, and knowingly or unknowingly, most of its visitors will be pleasantly surprised by the city in the sea. There is so much hidden underneath the bricks of Peniscola Castle that it might be a wise idea to hire a local guide to get the most of it.

    Church of Hermit in Peniscola, Castellon
    The views alone are worth visiting Peniscola Castle. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Peniscola Castle

    Though the shape of the fortress is still intact, one can only truly visit Peniscola Castle using imagination. Only the rocks remain of what once a great castle with beautiful gardens and frescoes. Most of the fortress was restored and even some walls were added for the shooting of Anthony Mann’s movie “El Cid”. Today, Peniscola Castle is a popular tourist destination and righteously so. All thanks to an exceptionally rich history and the continuous appearances in the popular culture, including the iconic George R. R. Martin’s “Game of Thrones”. 

    Peniscola Castle from Artillery Park, Castellon
    The artillery park and the modern gardens of castle join the medieval walls with renaissance ones. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Peniscola Details

    • Location: Plana Alta
    • State: Valencian Community
    • Coordinates: 40.3593° N, 0.3654° E
    • Distance from Valencia: 144.3km / 89.66mi
    • Distance from Barcelona: 221.4km / 137.57mi
    • First mentioned: 6th Century BCE (Hecateus)
    • Population: 7,447 (2018)
    • Area: 78.97 km² / 30.49 mi²
    • Elevation: 46 m / 151 ft
    • Forecast: Peniscola weather
    • Best time to visit: Late spring & early autumn
    • Accommodation: Booking.com

    Map of Things to See in Peniscola

    Peniscola Castle 3D map
    3D map of Peniscola historical city.
    The courtyard of Peniscola Castle, Spain
    During his residence, Papa Luna transformed the typical medieval Templar courtyard into papal gardens. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    How to get to Peniscola?

    Peniscola is located in the northern part of the Valencian Community – Province of Castellon, just below Ebro delta in Catalonia. The famous Spanish Mediterranean motorway AP-7 is situated right next to the town.

    Car is the recommended way of getting around in these parts of Spain. Check the map for the available parking locations.

    Peniscola Castle parking in Castellon, Spain
    During the peak times, the closest parking to Peniscola Castle is almost always full. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Thank you for visiting Connecting the Dots Journal’s official website!

    You got lucky! We have no ad to show for you. If you still want to support my work in a different way, please, subscribe to newsletter or become a Patron

    Click on the Ad to support my work.

    Thank you for visiting Connecting the Dots Journal’s official website!

    You got lucky! We have no ad to show for you. If you still want to support my work in a different way, please, subscribe to newsletter or become a Patron

    Click on the Ad to support my work.

    Thank you for visiting Connecting the Dots Journal’s official website!

    You got lucky! We have no ad to show for you. If you still want to support my work in a different way, please, subscribe to newsletter or become a Patron

    Click on the Ad to support my work.

    By train

    There are local and inter-regional trains, connecting the Valencian Community with Barcelona and Cartagena, running by Peniscola. Unfortunately, the closest train station is located in the neighboring town, Benicarlo.


    By bus

    There is an intercity public bus running between Peniscola – Benicarlo – Vinaros. You can find the timetables here.


    By car

    Despite the direction you are coming from, Peniscola could be either approached by AP-7 motorway or N-340. Roads CV-141 and CV-140 connect the town to the motorways.

    Artillery park from Peniscola Castle, Castellon, Spain
    Peniscola is a little authentic oasis in the very touristic Mediterranean coast of Spain. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    History of Peniscola

    There are so many historic layers to Peniscola that often much of it is left out in mainstream tourism. Among examples of stories, which would be advertised almost anywhere else in Spain is the legend of Hannibal swearing an oath to his father, Hamilcar Barca, to never be friends with Romans; Nor nobody talks about the mythical Greeks, to whom the name origins of Peniscola is accredited to – Chersonesos – the Greek word for peninsula; For more than 500 years, Moors also had a castle here and referred to it as Baniskula. Those times must have had some great stories as well; And finally, almost anybody ever talks about the first settlers of the area – the iconic Iberian. During their reign, I imagine it was more of a natural wonder coupled with their shrines to appreciate the beauty of the whole magical setting.

    Whichever period you choose, it always appears that Peniscola captured the attention of people, there is no reason to assume that it wouldn’t capture yours. If you want to learn even more about the history of Peniscola, consider hiring a local guide for your tour to the castle and artillery park.

    Polvorin in Peniscola of Castellon, Spain
    The building known as the ‘Polvorin’ belonged to the Castle during the period of Knights Templar and was used as Templar tank. Now it is fully covered by seashells. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    The Templar Order in Peniscola

    During an exchange of holdings in Tortosa, in 1294 Peniscola was peacefully transferred from the Kingdom of Aragon to Templars Order to help protect the area from Muslims and pirates.

    The mighty Romanesque fortress of Peniscola was built between 1294 and 1307 by the Knights Templar, the same year they were evicted and arrested by James II of Aragon under the orders of Avignon Pope Clement V. The timing was such that the Order probably felt what was coming and built the castle in Peniscola as their final refuge. The fortress remained the main command center of the Knights Templar Order until 1312 when the same Pope disbanded the order under the pressure of King Phillip IV of France. 

    Throne room of Peniscola Castle, Castellon, Spain
    The romanesque room was used by all of its masters for receptions, hearings and solemn acts. Its ceiling is still reminiscent of its past with Templar symbols and iron rings, which used to hold lamps. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    After the Templar Order got dissolved, King James II of Aragon persuaded Pope John XXII to let him reorganize the properties of the former order in Aragon and Valencia as a frontier of defenses of the Christian domain against Moors and pirates in the Iberian Peninsula. Although the main base moved to Montesa Castle, Peniscola remained under the banner of the newly formed Order of Montesa.

    Peniscola Castle courtyard, Castellon, Spain
    Anitopope Benedict XIII transformed the second level of Peniscola Castle as his headquarters. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Papa Luna of Peniscola

    Other than the Templar Order, Papa Luna (Antipope Benedict XIII) was the other popular figure to find its final refuge in the castle of Peniscola. In 1411, due to his persistence and refusal, the Antipope got expelled from the Christian Church, after which he moved from Perpignan to Peniscola. Benedict XIII converted Knights Templar Castle to his Papal seat, making it the third Holy See in the world together with Avignon and Rome.

    In 1406 Pope Gregory XII, situated In Rome, offered Papa Luna to resign together to elect a new Pope, who would reunite Christians, but he was stubborn and throughout his life, the rogue Pope never stopped believing that he is the only true reign to be the Head of the Christian world. During his life in Peniscola Castle, Papa Luna worked tirelessly to protect his rights and position as legitimate Pope, leaving a body of written work that was his final legacy of colorful life. Benedict XIII lived in Peniscola Castle until he died in 1423. 

    Papa Luna statue in Paniscola Castle, Spain
    Today Papa Luna is the most famous theme character in Peniscola. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    The Fortress remained the Papal seat to his successor, Antipope Clement VIII, who after an agreement with Rome, agreed to abandon his positions in favor of recognizing Pope Martin V. That terminated the remains of Avignon Papacy and ended the saga which officially destroyed the legendary Templar Order. Though the fruits of their knowledge and skills remain to this day.

    Thank you for visiting Connecting the Dots Journal’s official website!

    You got lucky! We have no ad to show for you. If you still want to support my work in a different way, please, subscribe to newsletter or become a Patron

    Click on the Ad to support my work.

    Thank you for visiting Connecting the Dots Journal’s official website!

    You got lucky! We have no ad to show for you. If you still want to support my work in a different way, please, subscribe to newsletter or become a Patron

    Click on the Ad to support my work.

    Thank you for visiting Connecting the Dots Journal’s official website!

    You got lucky! We have no ad to show for you. If you still want to support my work in a different way, please, subscribe to newsletter or become a Patron

    Click on the Ad to support my work.

    King Phillip IV of France

    Personally, it feels to me like King Phillip IV of France was the main antagonist of this whole historical period, and he turned out as a clear winner. He owned large sums of money to both Knights Templar and Jews and decided to get rid of both with the excuse of them being a state within a state. Seeing the end of the most powerful order of Crusaders was no easy task. As a result, King Phillip IV of France had to confront the Pope itself, which resulted in a victory against the Holy See and Papal clergy transfer to the enclave of Avignon, just under the wing of the victorious King. As I mentioned before, both the Knights Templar and the line of Popes and Antipopes, originated from Avignon, met their end in Peniscola Castle. King Phillip IV of France came out on top of all religious institutions.

    Peniscola Castle in Castellon Province of Valencian Community, Spain
    The actual name of the town, Peniscola, comes from a local evolution of the Latin word “Peninsula”. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    The Bastion of Rennaisance

    The city in the sea got its final iconic shape and fortifications during the Renaissance. In 1563, during the reign of Felipe II, an Italian architect J. B. Antonelli visited Peniscola and projected the current form of the fortress. It was a modern type of fortification, many haven’t heard the word “bastion” before the transformation. It was constructed in a shadow of a possible confrontation with another superpower at the time – the Ottoman Empire. Luckily, Peniscola Castle never got to experience the battle it was built for.

    Peniscola Bastion tunnels, Castellon, Spain
    Some tunnels from artillery park lead to the old castle port – Porteta, others – outside the walls. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Due to limited space, the architect had to be creative. The internal vaults were used to establish arsenals, mess halls, and munitions dump. These areas were used to house a school for children between 1912 and 1971. The spaces of gunboats were used as windows of the classrooms.

    Photo Gallery of Peniscola

    Church of Hermit in Peniscola, Castellon, Spain
    Church of Hermit was built between 1708 and 1714 on an older chapel. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    Thank you for visiting Connecting the Dots Journal’s official website!

    You got lucky! We have no ad to show for you. If you still want to support my work in a different way, please, subscribe to newsletter or become a Patron

    Click on the Ad to support my work.

    Thank you for visiting Connecting the Dots Journal’s official website!

    You got lucky! We have no ad to show for you. If you still want to support my work in a different way, please, subscribe to newsletter or become a Patron

    Click on the Ad to support my work.

    Thank you for visiting Connecting the Dots Journal’s official website!

    You got lucky! We have no ad to show for you. If you still want to support my work in a different way, please, subscribe to newsletter or become a Patron

    Click on the Ad to support my work.

    Personal Experience

    While I have heard that Peniscola is an exceptionally beautiful and interesting town, I didn’t expect it to have such a rich history. Combined with the authenticity, it was a pleasant surprise. Peniscola is like a gust of fresh air along the coast full of hotels and various entertainment facilities, which have emerged only in relatively recent years to support the growing tourism. The mild weather and warm sea on the Mediterranean coastlines of Spain is the main attraction for most of the visitors, therefore it is a sweet treat to find such a historic bastion for a change. 

    The experience of visiting the castle itself was no ordinary tour to any given museum of similar origins. While the very heart of the city is a part of the fortress, the very tip of it on Peniscola rock oversees it all. The area surrounding the castle sorts out in front of your eyes like a map. No surprise, the Knights Templar, Antipope Benedict XIII, and many others, having as many enemies as they had, found Peniscola as a natural spot for a fortress. As a result, Peniscola is a very rich and picturesque tourist destination – for sure worth a day-visit or more. 

    Panorama view from Peniscola Castle, Castellon
    All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
  • Legend of Puig Campana Mountain & Origins of Benidorm Island

    Legend of Puig Campana Mountain & Origins of Benidorm Island

    Legend of Puig Campana

    Puig Campana have attracted people’s attention for centuries. Climbing Puig Campana could be easily ranked among the best hikes in Costa Blanca. One of the key features of Puig Campana every visitor of the region notices – a small gash, located just next to the peak of the mountain. Interestingly, a rock of a similar shape could be seen, from the beaches of Benidorm, in the Mediterranean Sea.

    This coincidence has stimulated the imagination of local people for ages. Perhaps, for as long since the death of the protagonist in these stories – Roland, the Foremost of Charlemagne’s Paladins. Later on, many legends have been told regarding the origins of the gap in Puig Campana. The most popular one is the romantic one…

    Roland's Cut in Puig Campana, Spain
    Roland’s Cut in Puig Campana. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots

    The Romantic Version

    During those days, Frankish warriors were common visitors in these lands. The fierce battle between Moors and Franks went back and forth without any decisive victory. During one of those raids, a prodigy Frankish Commander Roland fell in love with a local maiden. Their love didn’t last long because one day Roland learned that the girl is cursed, and she would die when the last ray of sun will touch her skin. A desperate Roland climbed Puig Campana to cut out a piece out of it to prolong the life of her love. When the Sun set behind the Puig Campana, the girl died. Mad with grief, Roland grabbed the piece of the mountain and threw it to the Mediterranean Sea, creating the Island of Benidorm.

    The island of Benidrom, Spain
    Ad Meskens [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)]

    The Other Version

    …Skipping all the boring parts… and the battle has finally reached its grande finale. The fierce fighting took to the top Puig Campana. People from afar could hear the swinging swords of two nearly evenly matched warriors. Roland was about to get the upper hand against the Moorish leader, he lifted his sword, Durendal, to finish his enemy but the opponent proved to be a worthy one and evaded the final blow. Roland hit the ground instead and cut a piece out of the mountain which fell into the sea…

    It is not like we need proof to deny this but the origins of Benidorm’s island differ from Puig Campana by somewhere within 64 million years.

    Roland's Breach in Pyrenees Mountains between Spain and France
    garrulus at https://www.flickr.com. [CC BY 2.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)]

    Roland’s Breach (La Brèche de Roland)

    Roland’s Cut is not the only feature of the kind in Spain left by the Frankish Commander. Roland must have been a truly talented mountain slasher because he cut Pyrenees as well. This formation is better known as Roland’s Breach, and the story behind it is no less tragic than the one before.

    The legend tells that Moors were fiercely chasing Roland to the edge of their territory. Unfortunately, his horse has died when he attempted to escape his pursuers by jumping over a chasm. Roland didn’t give up and continued on foot. Just before his last moment, Roland smote the Pyrenees with his sword to make a breach so he could see his beloved Francia for one last time.

    Roland's Breach in Pyreenes from France
    Falk2 [CC BY-SA 4.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)]

    History behind the Legends

    Like in many legends, some parts of them are true. Roland was an actual Commander who died in the area during the Battle of Roncevaux Pass against Basques. That doesn’t mean that he could cut the mountains, but after his death Roland was turned into something as the role-model of all knights. This probably explains why so many legends surround his name ergo making him a legend on its own right.

    All of these battles, wrapped with legends, ended up in 795 when Frankish Empire established a military buffer zone – Marca Hispanica. Roughly, the territory included Aragon, Catalonia, and Basque Country. You can read more about Marca Hispanica and following events here.

  • Is Catalonia a Nation? Guide to Catalan History

    Is Catalonia a Nation? Guide to Catalan History

    Catalan fight for independence

    This series of articles is not “for” or “against” the independence of Catalonia. What I want is to run through the facts and leave that decision to you. Iberian peninsula has a very rich history and it is not a surprise that a region like Catalonia has all the reasons to claim their rights for independence, but it is important to keep in mind that Spain is formed from many ancient kingdoms and in the end, there is no good or bad, everyone is just playing a game for their own benefit.

    What defines a nation?

    The most used law dictionary in the US ‘Black’s Law Dictionary’ states:
    “A people, or aggregation of men, existing in the form of an organized jural society, inhabiting a distinct portion of the earth, speaking the same language, using the same customs, possessing historic continuity, and distinguished from other like groups by their racial origin and characteristics, and generally, but not necessarily, living under the same government and sovereignty.”

    Law Dictionary: What is NATION? definition of NATION (Black’s Law Dictionary)

    Origins of Catalan Language

    206 BC during the Second Punic War, the Roman Republic seized the Carthaginian territories in the south and east of the Iberian Peninsula. After that Roman republic gradually extended and in 19 BC Augustus, the first Roman emperor annexed the whole Hispania to the Roman Empire. Hispania was the Roman name for the Iberian Peninsula. It was divided into three regions and the northern territory was called Hispania Tarraconensis. It is often disputed whether it is more like Ibero-Romance or Gallo-Romance languages, however, Catalan language, just like Castilian Spanish or Occitan language from southern France, developed from the Vulgar Latin spoken in the Roman Empire.

    Viewpoint on Montserrat mountain

    Catalan genetic ancestry

    To this day, Jewish and North African ancestry of the people living in the Catalonia and Basque regions remains relatively low compared to the rest of the Iberian Peninsula. It might seem self-evident as North Africans invaded the Iberian Peninsula from the south and north remained less touched by their culture, but in fact, the southernmost region of Spain – Andalusia has relatively low North African population as well. This is due to various relocations of the Moriscos (North African descents who converted to Christianity) from their homeland. Many of them were expelled to the northwest, where we can find higher North African ancestry based on genes. It is harder to find the reason for the Jewish population, but Catalonia, Gascony, and NE Castile have lower ancestry compared to other regions in the Iberian Peninsula.

    Catalan history

    Marca Hispanica

    After decades of fighting between Frankish Empire and expanding Umayyad Caliphate, in 795 CE Charlemagne establishes the Marca Hispanica, a military buffer zone between the two powers. The city of Barcelona was conquered by the Charlemagne’s son Louis the Pious in 801 and the county of Barcelona remained incorporated into the Frankish Empire even after the death of Charlemagne in 814, when the region falls into a scene of revolts. In 817, Pamplona, led by Basque lord Eneko Arista detaches from the Marca Hispanica and soon was followed by Aragon (820).

    View from Montserrat mountain

    The first Count of Barcelona

    In 801 Bera was declared the first Count of the Barcelona and remained such until 820 when he was exiled for trying to adapt peaceful policies with Muslim ruled An-Andalus. Even though after that the rule of the County of Barcelona went to the Frankish nobles, it didn’t take long for the local nobility to regain trust of the King and Sunifred I was declared the Count of Barcelona in 844. His son Wilfred the Hairy was the last ruler of the region appointed by the Frankish King.

    Origins of Catalonia flag

    The Senyera, a yellow flag with four red stripes on it, used not only in Catalonia, but in many regions including Valencia, Aragon and Balearic Islands. A legend tells that in a battle with Moors, the Count of the Barcelona, Wilfred the Hairy, was deadly wounded and in his deathbed, he asked his ally Frankish King, the son of Louis the Pious, Charles the Bald for a coat of arms. The King then put four of his fingers into the Count’s open wound and drew four stripes on a golden shield.

    Catalan flag in Barcelona street

    The Estelada

    The flag for Catalonia independence movement is basically the Senyera with a blue triangle and a single star on it.

    De facto Independence of County of Barcelona

    With years the Counts of Barcelona had strengthened their authority and distanced themselves from Frankish influence. In 985 Muslims of Al-Andalus attack and burn Barcelona. The Count of Barcelona, Borrell II takes refuge in Monserrat mountains, where he waits for help from the Frankish king, which never comes. In 988 when the Carolingian dynasty was replaced by the Capetian dynasty, Borrell II never went to swear for allegiance to the new Frankish king. This is considered de facto independence of the County of Barcelona.

    Monastery on Montserrat mountain

    De jure Independence of County of Barcelona

    In 1258 Louis IX of France and James I of Aragon signs the treaty of Corbeil. By it, former Frankish kingdom, now France, abandon their ancient claims to Catalonia and Roussillon. In exchange Crown of Aragon (Catalan-Aragonese kingdom) renounces it claims to territories in the south of France.

    Sources:

    http://thelawdictionary.org/nation/ http://www.orbilat.com/Languages/Catalan/Catalan.html http://www.cell.com/ajhg/fulltext/S0002-9297(08)00592-2 https://www.eupedia.com/genetics/spain_portugal_dna.shtml#Sources http://cw.routledge.com/ref/middleages/KeyFigures/index.html http://libro.uca.edu/chaytor/achistory.htm http://libro.uca.edu/payne1/payne5.htm