Nestled in the heart of Valencia’s Ciutat Vella, El Carmen is a neighborhood where history and modernity intertwine in the most captivating way. Once a medieval suburb enclosed by Valencia’s ancient city walls, it has evolved into a vibrant district brimming with culture, nightlife, and artistic expression. Winding cobblestone streets, remnants of the old Moorish and Christian fortifications, and a mix of medieval, baroque, and contemporary architecture tell the story of a neighborhood that has reinvented itself countless times.
El Carmen is a paradox in motion—by day, it’s a picturesque maze of historical sites, hidden plazas, and trendy cafés. By night, it transforms into Valencia’s beating heart of tapas bars, jazz clubs, and lively terraces, drawing both locals and visitors into its intoxicating energy. It is a place where you can stumble upon centuries-old convents turned into modern art galleries, discover street art adorning crumbling facades, or sip on a cocktail in a bar housed in a medieval palace.
More than just a neighborhood, El Carmen is an experience—a timeless district where Valencia’s past and future converge in the most unexpected ways.
El Carmen Details
History of El Carmen
El Carmen’s history is as intricate as its winding streets, shaped by centuries of conquests, transformations, and cultural influences. Its origins date back to the Islamic period (8th–13th centuries), when Valencia was under Moorish rule. At the time, the neighborhood lay just outside the city’s main walls, functioning as an area of orchards, workshops, and homes for artisans and traders. When the Christian King James I of Aragon reconquered Valencia in 1238, the city expanded, and El Carmen was enclosed within a new set of medieval fortifications.
During the Middle Ages, El Carmen became a religious and defensive stronghold. Several monasteries and convents were established, the most significant being the Carmen Convent, which later gave the neighborhood its name. At the same time, the Torres de Quart and Torres de Serranos were built in the 14th and 15th centuries, acting as imposing gateways into the walled city and providing protection from potential invasions.
By the 18th and 19th centuries, El Carmen had developed into a densely populated working-class district. However, as industrialization and urban expansion shifted the city’s focus elsewhere, the neighborhood fell into decline. Many historic buildings suffered neglect, and by the mid-20th century, it became associated with urban decay.
El Carmen’s revival began in the late 20th century, as artists, students, and creatives moved in, attracted by its historic charm and affordable rents. The area became a hub for alternative culture, street art, and nightlife. Today, it is one of Valencia’s most dynamic districts, where centuries-old buildings now house contemporary art galleries, trendy cafés, and lively bars, reflecting a neighborhood that has embraced change while preserving its deep historical roots.
Top Landmarks in El Carmen
El Carmen is a treasure trove of history, art, and architecture, where medieval towers stand alongside modern street art, and ancient convents house contemporary culture. Here are some of the must-see landmarks that define the neighborhood:
Torres de Serranos & Torres de Quart – The Guardians of Valencia
These two massive medieval gates are the most iconic remnants of Valencia’s ancient city walls. Torres de Serranos, built in the late 14th century, was once the city’s main entrance and later served as a prison for nobility. Today, visitors can climb to the top for breathtaking panoramic views of the Turia Gardens and the old town.
Torres de Quart, constructed in the 15th century, bears visible cannonball scars from the Napoleonic Wars. Its rugged appearance makes it a powerful symbol of Valencia’s resilience.
Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporània (CCCC) – Where History Meets Art
Housed in a former 13th-century convent, the Centre del Carme is now a thriving cultural and artistic space. It hosts rotating exhibitions, performances, and experimental art projects, making it a must-visit for those interested in Valencia’s contemporary creative scene. The stunning gothic and renaissance cloisters contrast beautifully with its avant-garde exhibits.
Portal de la Valldigna – A Window to the Moorish Past
This hidden medieval archway, built in 1400, marks the boundary between the Christian and Moorish quarters of old Valencia. It’s a quiet, picturesque spot that whispers stories of Valencia’s Islamic past.
Plaza del Tossal & Plaza del Negrito – The Social Hubs
These two squares are the beating heart of El Carmen’s social life. Plaza del Tossal, located near the remains of the medieval city walls, is surrounded by lively bars and terraces. Plaza del Negrito, named after its small fountain, is a favorite spot for locals to enjoy an evening drink in an atmospheric setting.
Street Art Murals – El Carmen’s Open-Air Gallery
One of El Carmen’s defining features is its ever-changing street art scene. Murals by famous Spanish and international artists cover the neighborhood’s crumbling facades, turning it into a living, breathing art gallery. Keep an eye out for works by Escif, Valencia’s own Banksy, whose thought-provoking pieces blend urban art with social commentary.
Main Activities in El Carmen
El Carmen is a playground for explorers, food lovers, and culture seekers. Whether you want to sip coffee in a centuries-old courtyard, discover cutting-edge street art, or dance until dawn, this neighborhood offers something for every taste.
Culinary Experiences – A Fusion of Tradition and Innovation
El Carmen’s food scene is a mix of old and new—from classic tapas bars serving paella and patatas bravas to modern fusion spots experimenting with global flavors.
Traditional Tapas: Try Bodega La Rentaora for local wines and small bites or Tasquita La Estrecha, located in one of the narrowest buildings in Spain.
Modern & International Cuisine:Canela is famous for its Valencian rice dishes, while Refugio offers creative Mediterranean tapas with a twist.
Art and Culture – A Bohemian Paradise
El Carmen has long been a haven for artists, musicians, and performers. Its streets are filled with galleries, alternative art spaces, and live music venues.
Street Art Walks: Wander through the district to admire its ever-evolving murals by both local and international artists.
Cultural Spaces: Check out CCC (Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporània) for contemporary art exhibitions or La Beneficència, a historic building now home to Valencia’s Ethnological and Prehistory Museums.
Live Music & Theater:Radio City is an institution for live flamenco and indie concerts, while Sala Carme Teatre hosts avant-garde performances.
Shopping – Unique Finds in Hidden Corners
Forget big shopping malls—El Carmen is all about independent boutiques, vintage stores, and artisan markets.
Vintage & Second-Hand:Santo Spirito Vintage and Madame Mim are must-visit spots for retro fashion lovers.
Handmade & Local: Look for Valencian ceramics, handcrafted jewelry, and quirky souvenirs at small artisan shops tucked away in narrow alleys.
Nightlife – Where the City Comes Alive
As the sun sets, El Carmen transforms into Valencia’s liveliest nightlife district.
Chill Terrace Bars: Start the evening with a cocktail at Café Negrito or Café de las Horas, famous for its Agua de Valencia, the city’s signature orange-based cocktail.
Lively Tapas & Music:Tasca El Botijo offers a fun mix of tapas, wine, and live music.
Clubs & Late-Night Spots: Dance the night away at Jimmy Glass Jazz Bar for live jazz or Radio City for an eclectic mix of DJs and performances.
Places to Eat and Drink in El Carmen
El Carmen’s culinary scene is a blend of tradition and innovation, offering everything from authentic Valencian cuisine to international flavors and cutting-edge gastronomy. Whether you’re looking for a relaxed café, a gourmet dining experience, or a lively cocktail bar, El Carmen has it all.
Cafés and Bakeries – Perfect for a Morning or Afternoon Break
Café de las Horas – A stunning café with ornate décor and a must-try Agua de Valencia, a cocktail of orange juice, cava, and spirits.
Dulce de Leche Boutique – Famous for artisanal pastries, delicious coffee, and a cozy, Instagram-worthy atmosphere.
Librería Bartleby & Co. – A charming bookstore-café where you can enjoy a coffee surrounded by books.
Restaurants – A Mix of Traditional and Contemporary Cuisine
Canela – One of the best places in El Carmen for a proper paella or fideuà, located right next to Torres de Quart.
La Comisaría – A modern Mediterranean bistro with great vegetarian options and a chic setting.
Kamon – A high-end Japanese fusion restaurant tucked away in a small alley, perfect for sushi lovers.
El Forcat – A classic Valencian restaurant known for its tapas and traditional rice dishes, set in a historic building.
Bars and Nightlife – From Laid-Back Cocktails to Lively Clubs
Café Negrito – One of the most iconic bars in El Carmen, ideal for an early evening cocktail in Plaza del Negrito.
•Radio City – A legendary venue with live flamenco on Tuesdays, DJs, and an artsy underground vibe.
Jimmy Glass Jazz Bar – The go-to place for jazz lovers, hosting top international and local musicians.
La Bodegueta de Carmen – A cozy wine bar with a great selection of local and Spanish wines, perfect for an intimate evening.
Accommodation in El Carmen
Staying in El Carmen means immersing yourself in Valencia’s historic charm, with its centuries-old buildings, artistic atmosphere, and vibrant nightlife. Whether you prefer a boutique hotel, a stylish apartment, or a budget-friendly hostel, there’s something for every traveler.
Boutique Hotels – Stay in Style
For those looking for character and comfort, El Carmen offers beautifully restored hotels that blend history with modern amenities.
Caro Hotel – A luxury boutique hotel set in a 19th-century palace, featuring Roman and Gothic architectural elements. A unique blend of history and sophistication.
Ad Hoc Monumental – A charming, mid-range hotel inside a historic building, offering cozy rooms with exposed brick walls and wooden beams.
MYR Palacio Vallier – A high-end boutique hotel with elegant décor and a rooftop terrace overlooking the old town.
Vacation Apartments – Live Like a Local
For more space and flexibility, short-term rental apartments are a great option. Many are housed in centuries-old buildings with modern interiors.
Valenciaflats Centro Histórico – Spacious, fully-equipped apartments in the heart of El Carmen, ideal for longer stays.
SingularStays Carmen – Stylish apartments with a mix of contemporary and rustic design, located near Plaza de la Virgen.
Budget-Friendly Stays – Hostels & Guesthouses
El Carmen also has great options for backpackers and budget-conscious travelers who want to be in the middle of the action.
Home Youth Hostel – A laid-back, modern hostel with a social vibe, perfect for solo travelers.
The River Hostel – Overlooking the Turia Gardens, this affordable hostel has private and shared rooms with a lively common area.
Center Valencia Youth Hostel – Located steps from Plaza de la Virgen, it’s ideal for those who want cheap accommodation in the heart of El Carmen.
Staying in El Carmen means having Valencia’s best attractions, restaurants, and nightlife at your doorstep, all while soaking up the unique historical and artistic ambiance of this one-of-a-kind neighborhood.
Getting to & Around El Carmen
El Carmen’s central location in Valencia makes it easily accessible by foot, bike, and public transport. With its maze-like streets, historic charm, and pedestrian-friendly atmosphere, walking is the best way to explore, but there are plenty of other ways to get around.
Getting to El Carmen
From Valencia Airport (VLC):
Take Metro Line 3 or 5 to Xàtiva or Colón station, then walk about 15 minutes into El Carmen.
A taxi or ride-share takes 15–20 minutes, costing around €20–25.
From Valencia’s Train Station (Estación del Norte or Joaquín Sorolla):
A 15–20 minute walk through the old town.
Bus lines 5, 28, or C1 will get you there quickly.
From the Main Bus Station (Estació d’Autobusos de València):
A 10-minute walk across the Turia Gardens.
Buses C1 and 95 stop near El Carmen’s main squares.
Getting Around El Carmen
Walking: The best way to explore. Many of its narrow streets are pedestrian-only, making it easy to wander between landmarks, cafés, and plazas.
Biking: Valencia is one of Spain’s most bike-friendly cities.
Valenbisi bike rental stations are located throughout El Carmen.
The Turia Gardens cycle path runs right along the neighborhood’s edge.
Public Transport:
Metro stations Xàtiva and Colón are about 15 minutes away on foot.
EMT buses (Lines 5, 28, and 95) connect El Carmen to other parts of the city.
Driving & Parking – Not Recommended
El Carmen’s medieval streets were not built for cars, and driving here is a challenge due to one-way streets, pedestrian zones, and limited parking.
If you need to park, try:
Parking Mercado Central (near Central Market).
Parking Plaza de la Reina (a short walk from El Carmen).
With its charming walkways, hidden alleys, and buzzing plazas, El Carmen is best experienced on foot, allowing you to fully take in its history, culture, and lively atmosphere.
Personal Favourites
El Carmen is a neighborhood that reveals its secrets to those who take the time to explore. Beyond the well-known landmarks and buzzing nightlife, there are plenty of hidden gems, quirky finds, and unforgettable experiences that make this district truly special.
Why El Carmen?
El Carmen isn’t just a place to visit—it’s a place to get lost, to stumble upon surprises, and to soak up the energy of a city that has been reinventing itself for centuries. Whether you’re here for a few hours or a few days, this neighborhood will leave a lasting impression.
The Quart Towers have long stood as symbols of Valencia’s enduring spirit and military strategy. Constructed in the 14th century as a vital part of the city’s defensive walls, they were instrumental during the latter stages of the Reconquista. During this period, the towers served as essential lookout points, enabling defenders to spot and repel Moorish offensives. Their elevated positions provided commanding views of approaching enemy forces, making them indispensable in organizing rapid counterattacks and securing the city’s newly consolidated Christian territories.
During the War of the Two Peters, the towers became even more critical. This conflict pitted the Kingdom of Castile against the Crown of Aragon. Although the war did not end with a single decisive victory, the “Peter” of Aragon ultimately emerged in a stronger position, securing favorable terms and solidifying its influence in the region. Later, during the Spanish War of Independence (1808–1814), the towers once again proved their strategic worth. In this conflict against Napoleonic forces, Spanish resistance—bolstered by British and Portuguese allies—secured a decisive victory that forced the French to withdraw from the peninsula, releasing Spain from Napoleon’s grasp.
This robust construction allowed them to withstand prolonged sieges, ensuring that Valencia’s inhabitants and cultural heritage remained protected. To this day, you can clearly see the scars from these battles on the Quart Towers, which it proudly carries just as mere scratches.
Architectural Features
Built from robust stone with intricate details influenced by Gothic and Renaissance styles, the Quart Towers showcase the engineering excellence of their era. Their enduring design and strategic placement underline innovative medieval construction methods while serving as a captivating example of Valencia’s architectural heritage.
Visitor Information
Conveniently located in Valencia’s historic center, the Quart Towers are easily accessible to both tourists and locals. Guided tours are available, offering immersive experiences that de 7h the towers’ historical context and architectural nuances. With proximity b7 other cultural landmarks, a visit to the Quart Towers provides a well-rounded journey through Valencia’s rich past.
Far far away, in the middle of Andalucia lies a town equivalent of a warm bitter-sweet cold glass of a fine Spanish cherry, locally known as Jerez. This fortified and unfiltered gem is still full of a purified Spanish love for life, free of the northern nonsense. And, honestly, I wish this well-kept secret to remain so–authentic and stubborn. I’m writing this article not for business purposes but purely out of love for the town with a traditional character. My ode to Antequera, if you don’t mind because I don’t.
Often it is known for the symhiosis of its half natural, half man made monuments of El Torcal and Neolithic Dolmens, but seldom it is praised for its rich and diverse history. Of course, most of Spain share these historical and cultural characteristics and Antequera is a perfect example of it, just more so.
Antequera is also known as “the hearth of Andalucia”, not only because it stands on the crossroads of the main regional cities: Seville, Cordoba, Granada, and Malaga, but also because in its Old Town lies the geographical center of the region, or, at least, the city claims so. Whatever is the case–in Atequera you’ll feel like in the middle of everything.
Antequera Details
Neolithic Origins (4000-2200BC)
Most famous monuments in Antequera come from its dawn when it was just a phenomenon of natural beauty and profound human imagination. The three dolmens of Menga, Viera, and Tholos de Romeral are dated from deep Neolithic (the Dolmen de Menga 4000BC) to the Bronze Age (Tholos De Romeral 3000-2200BC) showing technological degradation over time. These exceptional megalithic structures includes a stone of 180 tonnes, which is beyond impressive but moving such heavy pieces was rather typical for that period if time. Lost technology? Perhaps, but sites like Dolmens of Antequera, as wonderful as they are, are not unique by itself. What makes them unique is the alignment of these ancient megalithic structures to the natural environment.
The Dolmen de Viera is aligned at the Equinoxes-astronomical event, so far so good. The Dolmen de Menga is aligned to the Peña de los Enamorados, it’s a bit strange, but clearly ancient people thought that some kind of God or Giant is resting there (Sleeping Zeus near Heraklion in Crete comes to mind). Finally, the Tholos of Romeral is aligned at El Torcal, which is, really, like whatever… But the fascinating part that these different alignments form a triangle. Coincidence? I doubt it. Dolmen of Antequera is just one of many Neolithic structures showing sophisticated understanding of geometry, environment and sun movements by the ancient people who built it.
Based on historical written records, the Domen De Menga was always known to the people who lived in this area.
Bronze Age-2nd Century BC ()
My favourite period is rather silent as it is often is but Tartessus which is often linked to the Biblical and.. from Oddyssey.
The Tholos of Romeral is the most important archaeological site from this period but a Bronze Age settlement was uncovered to the North of Antequera as well. This could be city of the people who built the Dolmens.
Later on, Iberians and even traces of Carthage, but we can only guess what life could’ve looked back then as no written, or at least deciphred sources remain..
Roman Antikaria (1st-5th Century AD)
It is difficult to comprehend but about 2000 years ago, the grasp of Rome reached Antequera, whole of Iberia, and actually much more. An interesting fact is that the branch of the famous Via Augustus, Domitiana, ran and branched in Antequera. These roads were built as an ambitious project by the first Emperor of Rome to show off his power by making the same road that Carthaginian General Hanibal used for his surprise attack on Rome in 218 and Hercules before him, accessible to everyone. Impressive it was indeed, Via Augustus was widely used by Moorish even a millenia later, just they probably didn’t knew who built it, so called it al-Racif.
Nevertheless the importance of these roads, probably, the most known Roman ruins in the city are the Roman Baths. It is located just below one of the most beautiful places in Antequera–Plaza de Santa Maria. The ancient structure date back to the mid 1st century and was used up until the Romans lost control over Hispania in the 5th century. In these baths was found one of the most impressive archaeological find in the city-an impressive bronze sculpture known as Ephebus of Antequera.
The Romans ruled over this region for 7 centuries since the Second Punic Wars in 218-201 BC, when Carthage lost the control of this rich region.
Note that the size of the Roman Baths could indicate the size and importance of this faraway Roman town.
Visigothic Dark Ages (419-716)
Though the Visigoths ruled the area during the interperiod between Roman and Umayyad Caliphate Empires, it was pagan Vandals who took Anticaria from the Roman Catholic Empire. Took might be overstatement, it was more like they destroyed everything on their way. It was other German people, Visigoths, who took control of the area for the next 3 centuries. Ironically, they were Arian Christians, a Christian branch declared heretic by the Rome itself. In about 716, Visigothic Anticaria was conquered by Muslim forces, or even earlier, led by the forces of Tariq ibn-Ziyad himself. Exceptionally interesting and mysterious figure from the Northern Africa, who’s motivation to invade Iberia could have been not as much religious but rather historical-the people from Northern Africa-Carthaginians, used to rule these lands.
Medina Antaquira
One of the most notable buildings in the city is Alcazaba. Though it is almost exquisitely moorish, excavations show Roman an earlier presence on the hill.
The citadel with all of its fortifications as we know it today was built in 13th century due to rising Spanish Christian threat. This transformation of the facade was dwarfed by what was to come. Very tragic for local Muslim populations, but very fortunate for Christian World as the whole. In the pre-modern history times it always worked that way, somebody wins and somebody looses it all.
The Siege of Antequera (1410)
After … unsuccessful attempts, Antequera was finally conquered by the Infante Ferdinand of Castile after an exhausting siege in 1410–the same year the Grand Duchy of Lithuania together with the Kingdom of Poland halted once and for all the Northern Crusade after the Battle of Grunwald.
Given the magnificent fortifications of the city, no wonder it took 6 difficult months for ravaging Christians to finally breach the walls and take the castle from the locals. Mark the date because by this time, the Moors have been already living here for more than 7 centuries. It is 28 to 35 generations. By that time, the local Muslim Antequerans probably knew less about the Northern Africa than you do now.
Both sides understood the strategic importance of Antequera for the final battle for Granada. Nevertheless, even after the succesful siege of the city, it took another 82 years for Christians to take the Capital City.
The local Muslim population was expelled from the city to Granada, forming one of its districts known as Antequerella???
The White Tower (with the Christian city’s bell crowned in 1582) is the second-widest Moorish tower in all of Andalusia.
Christian Antequera (1410+)
Did you know that Antequera has the most churches per capita in all of Spain? Well, now you know, but you might wonder why? Well, the answer is very simple, in the 15th century Antequera found itself on the frontiers against Muslim… of Granada. Christians wanted to establish, and at the same time to show off, their devotion to Christian God. A charm of luck for the final battle between two major religions. A battle of the war which eventually skyrocketed the Christian World into the Renaissance and sunk the Muslim World into its dark ages.
All of its 36 churches were built during this period between the siege of Antequera and the siege of Granada. And it seems that nobody ever questioned again, if they need another church in Antequera.
Nestled amid the rolling hills of Valencia, Xàtiva is a city where history comes alive at every turn. With its towering Xàtiva Castle overlooking the town, winding medieval streets, and rich cultural heritage, Xàtiva invites you to step back in time and immerse yourself in the legacy of civilizations that have shaped this unique destination.
A City Reborn from Ashes
In 1707, during the War of the Spanish Succession, King Philip V ordered the city to be burned as punishment for its resistance. Demonstrating resilience, the people of Xàtiva rebuilt their city from the ashes. As a symbol of defiance, the local museum displays an upside-down portrait of Philip V—a testament to the unbroken spirit of its inhabitants.
Xàtiva Details
State: Valencian Community
Coordinates: 38.9903° N, 0.5211° W
Distance from Valencia: Approximately 60 km / 37 mi
Founded: Roman era as Saetabis
First mentioned: 2nd century BC
Population: 29,982 (2023)
Area: 76.56 km² / 29.56 mi²
Elevation: 115 m / 377 ft
UNESCO World Heritage Site: The Castle of Xàtiva is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “El Arte Rupestre del Arco Mediterráneo de la Península Ibérica” (1998)
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The Majestic Castle of Xàtiva
Perched atop a steep hill, the Castell de Xàtiva is the crown jewel of the city and a must-visit attraction in Xàtiva. This impressive fortress, with origins dating back to Iberian and Roman times, offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Wander through its ancient walls, explore hidden passages, and imagine the historical events that unfolded within this stone stronghold.
No visit to Xàtiva is complete without exploring the Castell de Xàtiva. This hilltop fortress, with origins in Iberian and Roman times, provides breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. Highlights of the castle include:
The Keep: Offering the best panoramic views of the region.
Roman Cisterns: Ancient water storage systems that tell the tale of early engineering.
Prison Towers: Eerie reminders of the castle’s role as a place of confinement.
Birthplace of the Borgias
Xàtiva holds the distinguished honor of being the birthplace of two popes from the infamous Borgia family: Pope Callixtus III and Pope Alexander VI. Their legacy is woven into the fabric of the city, with numerous landmarks and stories highlighting their influence during the Renaissance period. Visiting Xàtiva provides a unique opportunity to delve into the intriguing history of the Borgias. Follow the Borgia Trail to uncover their influence on the city:\
Birthplace of Pope Alexander VI: Marked by a commemorative plaque.
The Church of Sant Francesc: This historic church is associated with the Borgias and is a key stop on the trail, offering insights into their religious and political power during the Renaissance.
The Collegiate Basilica of Santa Maria (La Seu)
Located in the heart of the city, the Collegiate Basilica of Santa Maria is a stunning example of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Admire its intricate façade, climb the bell tower for a bird’s-eye view of the city, and explore its interior treasures, including:
The Main Altar: Featuring intricate carvings and paintings.
Religious Relics: Artifacts that showcase Xàtiva’s deep-rooted faith.
More Things to Do & to See in Xàtiva
Founded as a royal hospital by Jaume I in 1244 and rebuilt centuries later, it is one of the most beautiful and interesting monuments in Xàtiva. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Royal Hospital
Built in the 15th century, the Royal Hospital of Xàtiva is a testament to medieval healthcare and philanthropy. Its elegant cloisters and well-preserved chapel provide insight into the city’s commitment to caring for its residents.
The Museum of Fine Arts (Casa de l’Ensenyança)
Art enthusiasts will appreciate the Museum of Fine Arts, housed in a former 18th-century school building. This museum features:
The Upside-Down Portrait of Philip V: A symbol of defiance after the city was burned in 1707.
Art by José de Ribera: The renowned painter known as “Lo Spagnoletto.”
Local Artifacts: Showcasing the cultural and historical evolution of Xàtiva.
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The Almodí Museum
For a deep dive into Xàtiva’s archaeological and historical roots, visit the Almodí Museum, housed in a former grain exchange. Key exhibits include:
Artifacts from Iberian and Roman Times: Tools, pottery, and sculptures that trace the city’s ancient origins.
Medieval Coins and Manuscripts: Offering a glimpse into Xàtiva’s role as a regional economic hub.
The Legacy of Paper Production: Learn about Xàtiva’s pioneering role in European papermaking using techniques introduced by the Moors. Xàtiva established one of the first paper mills on the continent. This innovation played a crucial role in the spread of knowledge throughout the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, cementing Xàtiva’s place in European papermaking history.
Plaza del Mercado and Historic Center
Stroll through the Plaza del Mercado, a lively square surrounded by historic buildings, quaint cafés, and traditional shops. Nearby, you’ll find:
The Church of Sant Feliu: A small but charming Romanesque church with a serene atmosphere.
Palace of Alarcón: A well-preserved aristocratic residence reflecting Renaissance architectural styles.
The Fountain Route
Xàtiva is famous for its numerous historic fountains. Follow the Fountain Route to discover:
Fuente del León (Lion Fountain): A striking landmark in the city center.
Fuente de la Trinidad: One of the oldest Gothic fountains in Spain.
Font dels 25 Dolls: A unique fountain with 25 spouts, showcasing intricate craftsmanship.
Culinary Delights
Indulge in the city’s renowned Valencian cuisine at local restaurants and markets. Don’t miss:
Arròs al Forn (Baked Rice): A hearty dish featuring local ingredients.
Arnadí: A sweet dessert made from pumpkin and almonds, perfect for satisfying your sweet tooth.
Local Wines: Pair your meal with wines from the nearby Valencia wine region, known for its quality vintages.
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Practical Information
Getting There: Xàtiva is easily accessible by train from Valencia, with regular services making it a convenient day trip. The journey offers scenic views of the Spanish countryside.
Accommodation: Options range from historic hotels in the city center to charming rural houses in the surrounding countryside. Staying overnight allows you to experience the city’s ambiance after the day-trippers have left.
Best Time to Visit: While enjoyable year-round, visiting during the Fira de Xàtiva in August offers a unique cultural experience. Spring and autumn also provide pleasant weather for exploring.
Personal Experience
I think Xàtiva, together with Sagunt and Peñíscola, are three of the most interesting historical towns in the Valencian Community, with its castle potentially being the most impressive archeological ruins of its category. Therefore, Xàtiva is more than a pretty tourist destination; it’s a journey through centuries of history, culture, and natural beauty. From the iconic Xàtiva Castle to the tranquil Fountain Route, every corner of this Valencian gem tells a story. Whether you’re an adventurer, a history buff, or a foodie, Xàtiva has something for you.
La Vall de Gallinera, nestled in the picturesque Marina Alta region of Spain, is a hidden gem waiting to be explored. Even given a tough competition, this enchanting valley, composed of eight quaint villages, Benialí, Benirrama, Benitaia, Benissivà, La Carroja, Alpatró, Llombai, and Benissili, might be the most beautiful area in all of Marina Alta’s inland. Each village, with its own distinct character and charm, paints a picture of a region rich in history and cultural heritage. From the Moorish legacy evident in the terraced agricultural landscapes to the ancient castles perched dramatically on hilltops, La Vall de Gallinera is a testament to the layers of history that have shaped this area.
Visitors are drawn to the region not only for its historical significance but also for its natural beauty. Surrounded by the soaring peaks of the Sierra de Foradada, the valley is a haven for nature enthusiasts and hikers alike, offering a plethora of trails that wind through lush cherry orchards and aromatic pine forests. The area is especially picturesque in spring when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, casting a pink hue over the landscape and infusing the air with their delicate fragrance.
Choosing to visit La Vall de Gallinera means stepping off the beaten path to discover the authentic heart of Spain. Whether you’re interested in delving into the rich tapestry of its past, exploring the stunning natural landscape, or simply relaxing in a peaceful village setting, this valley has something for everyone. So come and experience the serene beauty and rich history of La Vall de Gallinera, where every corner holds a story waiting to be uncovered.
History of La Vall de Gallinera
Vall de Gallinera, located in the Marina Alta district of Alicante, Spain, traces its human activity back to the Neolithic period, as evidenced by archaeological discoveries such as pottery fragments and lithic tools in local caves. These early artifacts suggest that the area’s rich resources have been continuously exploited by various cultures. Notably, during the Bronze Age, the strategic location of Vall de Gallinera on elevated terrain made it an ideal settlement for defense and observation, which is reflected in the remains of fortifications found in the area.
With the arrival of the Moors in the 8th century, Vall de Gallinera entered a period of agricultural innovation and prosperity. The Moors introduced complex irrigation systems, known as “acequias,” that captured and redirected water from mountain streams to the terraced fields below, a system that significantly enhanced the agricultural output and is still visible in the landscape today. The Moors also left their mark with the construction of the “Ràfol de Salem,” a notable fortification that served as a defensive and administrative center. This period lasted until the Christian reconquest in the late 15th century, when Vall de Gallinera was integrated into the Crown of Aragon, and the Moorish population was either expelled or converted under coercive conditions, dramatically altering the demographic and cultural landscape.
In modern times, Vall de Gallinera is known not just for its historical significance but also for its cultural heritage, particularly the annual “Festes de les Danses,” which includes a series of traditional dances that are thought to have Moorish origins. The local economy, while still heavily reliant on agriculture—particularly the cultivation of cherries, olives, and almonds—has expanded to include eco-tourism, with many visitors drawn to the preserved medieval architecture, the extensive network of hiking trails, and the panoramic views of the Mediterranean landscape. This blend of deep historical layers and preserved natural beauty makes Vall de Gallinera a unique study in the continuity and change of a Mediterranean rural community through the ages.
Best time to visit: Late spring to early summer (May to June) for the cherry blossom season, and early autumn (September to October) for hiking and experiencing the harvest.
Festivals: The Cherry Blossom Festival (April); and the Moors and Christians Festival (July)
The best part of the villages found in the valley is that there are eight of them. From Benirrama to Benissili, each of them has something unique to offer. La Vall de Gallinera just seems to be created by higher forces to fit picturesque villages.
Famous for its stunning views of the surrounding mountains, Benirrama is a haven for photographers and nature lovers. The remains of an ancient Moorish castle sit atop the hill, offering a glimpse into the area’s historical strategic importance.
Benialí
This village serves as the administrative heart of the valley. Known for its well-preserved medieval architecture, Benialí boasts narrow, winding streets and traditional stone houses. The 16th-century Church of St. Michael the Archangel stands as a historical centerpiece, drawing visitors with its blend of Gothic and Baroque styles.
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Benissivà
As one of the valley’s smallest villages, Benissivà is renowned for its intimate atmosphere and the 17th-century Palace of the Counts of Sáfor, which now serves as a museum displaying local history and culture.
Benitaia
Benitaia is a small village known for its rustic charm and the beautiful Church of Santa Ana. The village’s layout reflects its Moorish past, with a labyrinth of alleys that evoke a sense of timelessness.
La Carroja
This village is the agricultural hub of the valley, surrounded by lush orchards and farmlands. La Carroja is particularly picturesque in the spring when the cherry trees are in bloom.
Alpatró
Known for its artisanal products, especially the local honey, Alpatró is a village where tradition and craftsmanship are alive and well. The main square and the Church of Saint James the Apostle are the focal points of village life.
Llombai
Llombai is a quiet village that offers a peaceful retreat from the more touristy spots in the valley. Its landscapes are dominated by olive groves and almond trees, reflecting the area’s agricultural heritage.
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Benissili
Perched on a rugged hillside, Benissili is the most dramatic of the valley’s villages. The ruins of an ancient castle loom over the village, and the area is rife with hiking trails that offer spectacular views of the valley below.
La Vall de Gallinera is a paradise for hikers, offering a variety of trails that cater to all levels of fitness and experience. Here are some of the best hiking trails in the area.
A more extensive trail that connects all eight villages of La Vall de Gallinera. This hike is perfect for those looking to explore the cultural and natural beauty of the region. It’s a longer route, about 19 km / 11.8 mi, and can take around 6 to 8 hours to complete.
Benissili Castle Trail
This short but steep trail leads to the ruins of Benissili Castle, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The trail is about 2 km / 1.2 mi round trip and takes approximately 1.5 hours to complete.
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La Carroja to Alpatró Circular Walk
This gentle circular walk connects the villages of La Carroja and Alpatró, winding through cherry orchards and farmlands. It’s a pleasant walk of around 8 km / 5 mi, which takes about 2 to 3 hours to complete.
Forada Peak has an iconic arc though which sun is visible at certain point of the day during equinox from the old Convent of Benitaia. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
La Forada Hike
There are two options to reach the most iconic peak of Vall de Gallinera: One option is literally and figuratively straightforward, and the other includes a circular educational trail. The latter route circles around the striking Penya Forada rock formation, providing stunning views and a chance to explore the local flora and fauna. The hike is around 10 km / 6.2 mi and takes about 4 hours to complete.
The other option is a moderate hike leading straight to the iconic Forada Peak, known for its distinctive hole through the mountain. The trail offers spectacular views of the valley and is particularly beautiful during sunrise or sunset. The hike is approximately 5 km / 3.1 mi round trip and takes about 3 hours to complete.
How to Get to La Vall de Gallinera
Reaching La Vall de Gallinera is an adventure in itself, offering various modes of transportation that cater to different preferences.
By Car
Driving is the most convenient way to explore La Vall de Gallinera, providing the freedom to visit each village at your own pace. From Alicante, take the AP-7 motorway towards Valencia, then switch to the CV-700. The scenic drive through the mountains offers stunning views and the journey takes approximately 1.5 hours. Parking is available in each of the villages, though it can be limited during peak tourist seasons
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By Bike
For the more adventurous, cycling to La Vall de Gallinera is a rewarding experience that offers a closer connection to the landscape. The region’s winding roads and steep inclines are a challenge but offer unparalleled views and a sense of accomplishment. Be prepared for a strenuous ride, especially during the summer months, and always carry sufficient water and sun protection.
Personal Experience
Vall de Gallinera is among my favorites in the region. It beats my second top location of Marina Alta inland – Vall de Laguar, and is definitely on par with the best destinations of coastal areas of this exotic Comarca of Spain. When putting together a list of points of interest in the areas around Denia for my friends, I always include Vall de Gallinera. I don’t know if it is just me, but terraced landscapes tend to steal my heart completely. Not to mention the picturesque cherry, olive, and various citrus trees growing in the area.
In Vall de Gallinera, everything is so packed, that it really doesn’t matter if you come here for picturesque villages, vegetation blossoms, hikes, or beautiful vistas in general, you’ll get everything zipped into a pack anyway. This makes this beautiful crown jewel of Marina Alta inland a particularly attractive destination, whether you are a tourist or a local. I personally, enjoy my every visit to Vall de Gallinera, therefore I couldn’t recommend it more to anyone visiting the region.
Nestled along the Mediterranean coast, the charming city of Denia comes alive every March with the vibrant and fiery festival of Fallas, marking one of Spain’s most unique and spirited celebrations. Inscribed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2016, this dazzling event transforms many cities across the region into a canvas of colossal effigies, fiery displays, and communal joy, showcasing a tradition steeped in creativity, satire, and the welcoming of spring. While Valencia may be the heartland of the Fallas festivities, Denia, with its own distinctive charm and fervor, offers a compelling experience that mirrors the grandeur and intensity of its larger counterpart yet maintains an intimate community feel.
The Fallas in Denia 2024 promises an unforgettable spectacle, inviting locals and visitors alike to immerse themselves in a cultural phenomenon that blends ancient customs with contemporary artistry. As a testament to the enduring bond between Denia and its ancestral traditions, the festival not only honors the town’s heritage but also serves as a dynamic platform for social commentary and artistic expression. From the intricate design of the fallas (monumental sculptures) to the exhilarating burst of fireworks lighting up the night sky, every element of the festival is a tribute to the creativity, ingenuity, and spirited communal life of Denia.
Fallas in Denia has a unique flavor of its own, the festival in the Capital of Marina Alta is a particularly attractive location for the popular Valencian festivity because the sculptures are burned one by one. This way, allows curious people to enjoy the spectacle in all parts of town bit by bit. Whether you’re drawn to the spectacle for its artistic merits, the thrill of the pyrotechnics, or the warmth of community gatherings, the Fallas festival in Denia offers a rich tapestry of experiences that resonate with the essence of Spanish festivity and tradition.
A Brief History of Fallas Denia
The roots of the Fallas festival in Denia, much like those in the rest of the Valencian Community, intertwine deeply with the region’s history, blending medieval customs, pagan rituals, and Christian celebrations into a vibrant tapestry of cultural expression. Originally, Fallas began as a feast day for St. Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters, marking the arrival of spring with the burning of waste materials and old wooden items collected during the winter. This act of purification and renewal, over centuries, evolved into the elaborate festival we witness today, characterized by the creation and destruction of fallas – elaborate sculptures that are as satirical as they are spectacular.
Denia’s adaptation of this tradition has grown in scale and complexity, reflecting both local and global themes through its fallas. These towering figures, crafted with incredible skill and wit, fill the city’s squares and streets, turning Denia into an open-air museum of ephemeral art. Each falla is a marvel of design, engineering, and artistry, representing months of dedication by local artists and communities. They often depict scenes of social, political, and cultural commentary, providing insight into contemporary issues with humor and creativity.
The festival’s crescendo, the ‘Nit de la Cremà’ (Night of the Burning), sees these magnificent sculptures consumed by flames in a symbolic act of regeneration and rebirth. This spectacular finale, lit against the backdrop of Denia’s historic landscapes and Mediterranean charm, is a poignant reminder of the cycle of life and the impermanence of art.
Through periods of prohibition and revival, the Fallas festival has persisted, embodying the resilience and adaptability of the Valencian spirit. Even during the Franco regime, when regional languages and traditions were suppressed, Fallas found a way to endure, adapting its forms of expression to ensure its survival. Today, recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the Fallas festival stands as a testament to the community’s commitment to its cultural legacy, celebrating not just the arrival of spring but also the enduring power of creativity and community. In Denia, the Fallas festival is more than just a series of events; it is a communal act of creation, celebration, and renewal, deeply woven into the fabric of the city’s identity.
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Main events: The Plantà (March 11-16), La Ofrenda (March 17-18), Nit de la Cremà (March 19)
Fallas Denia Map
Where to Stay?
Having experienced the Fallas festival in Denia, it’s clear the entire city vibrates with the festival’s energy, especially during this period. Your accommodation choice should depend on what you’re looking to get out of your visit. If you’re here to dive deep into the festivities, staying close to the city center will keep you near the heart of the action. For those primarily interested in the ‘Nit de la Cremà’ and don’t mind a bit of travel, options outside the center could also work well. Denia’s local transportation, including buses and taxis, efficiently accommodates the influx of visitors, ensuring you’re never too far from the festival’s highlights.
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Fallas Denia 2024 Schedule
The Fallas in Denia 2024 promises an array of events filled with tradition, art, and community spirit. To help you navigate through the festivities, here’s a breakdown of the schedule:
Week 1
Thursday, February 8
19:00: Opening of the Fallas clubhouses
19:30: Visit of the judging panel to the clubhouses participating in the decorated clubhouses prize
Saturday, February 10
18:15: Gathering of the Fallas commissions, Local Fallas Board, major Falleras of Dénia, and courts of honor on Federico García Lorca street.
18:30: Visit of the major Falleras of Dénia, courts of honor, Local Fallas Board, and commissions to the clubhouses of the Fallas Camp Roig, Campaments, Darrere del Castell, Les Roques, and Baix la Mar, and Fallas announcements
Week 2
Thursday, February 15
19:30: Visit of the judging panel to the clubhouses participating in the decorated clubhouses prize
Friday, February 16
10:30 to 13:00 and 16:00 to 19:00: Reception of Ninots participants of the Ninot Exhibition at Casa de la Marquesa Valero de Palma
19:45: Gathering of the Fallas commissions, Local Fallas Board, major Falleras of Dénia, and courts of honor in Valgamediós Square.
18:30: Visit of the major Falleras of Dénia, courts of honor, Local Fallas Board, and commissions to the clubhouses of the Fallas West, Center, Port Rotes, Diana, Saladar, and Paris Pedrera, and Fallas announcements
Saturday, February 17
17:45: Gathering of the Fallas officials 2024 at the end of Marqués de Campo street
18:00: Parade to the Ninot Exhibition
18:30: Opening of the Ninot Exhibition 2024 at Casa de la Marquesa
20:00: Crida by the major Falleras of Dénia, Mar Moncho Roselló and Candela Marco Jiménez, and proclamation, in Constitució square
21:00: Fallera Gala Dinner with the award of the 2024 Exemplary Fallero distinction and awards of JLF and JCF at L’Androna Multiespai Room.
Sunday, February 18
18:30: Children’s Fallera Gala with the awards of JLF and JCF. Afterwards, snack for the attending children.
Week 3
Pause
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Week 4
March 1 to 14
14:00: Tir de carcasses (firecracker event)
Saturday, March 2
13:00: Dinar de Germanor (Brotherhood meal) in Torrecremada, and awarding of the Best Fallas Ban, Best Fallas Presentations, Best Showcase, Best Presenters, Best Keepers, Child’s Pardoned Ninot, and Adult’s Pardoned Ninot
Sunday, March 3
12:00: Concert by the Artistic Musical Group of Dénia, at the crossroads of Saladar Av. and Diana St.
Week 5
Wednesday, March 6
09:45 to 13:30 and 16:45 to 20:30: Fallera blood donation in Llunàtics Multipurpose Room.
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20:00: First Night of Serenades to the major Falleras of Dénia in the following order:
Major Falleras of Dénia – Plaza de la Constitució (Constitution Square)
Falla Les Roques
Falla West
Falla Campaments
Falla Behind the Castle
Falla Baix la Mar
Friday, March 15
10:00: Breakfast in the Fallas areas
10:00: The FFMM, Mar Moncho Roselló and Candela Marco Jiménez, will welcome visitors at the Tourist Office of Oculist Buigues square
14:00: Tir de carcasses (firecracker event) and Plantà meal in the Fallas neighborhoods
20:00: Second Night of Serenades:
Falla Camp Roig
Falla Paris-Pedrera
Falla Saladar
Falla Diana
Falla Port Rotes
Falla Center
Saturday, March 16
08:00: Planting of the Fallas monuments in the different districts of the city
10:00: Breakfast in all the Fallas districts
12:30: Planting of the Local Fallas Board’s Falla in Consell Square
14:00: Tir de carcasses (firecracker event) and Plantà meal in the Fallas neighborhoods
18:00: Courtesy visit of the major Falleras of Dénia, Courts of Honor, and Local Fallas Board to the Fallas districts in the following order:
Falla Les Roques
Falla Baix la Mar
Falla Behind the Castle
Falla Campaments
Falla West
Falla Camp Roig
Falla Paris-Pedrera
Falla Saladar
Falla Diana
Falla Port Rotes
Falla Center
21:00: Plantà dinner
22:00: Announcement rockets for the Night of the Planting
Denia Fallas Main Event
Sunday, March 17- La Ofrenda
07:00: Wake-up call in the Fallas areas
08:00: Visit of the judging panel to the Fallas
09:00: Visit of the rest of the juries
10:45: Gathering of all the commissions in the Town Hall Square
11:00: Tribute to the major Falleras of Dénia and to the major Falleras of Les Roques, Behind the Castle, and Baix la Mar
13:00: Awarding of children’s prizes at the Town Hall
14:00: Mascletà in the different Fallas districts
18:15: Gathering of all the commissions on Patricio Ferrándiz street.
18:30: Homages to the major Falleras of Paris Pedrera, Camp Roig, Campaments, and West
20:30: Awarding of the prizes for the big Fallas 2024 at the Town Hall
23:00: Festivals in the Fallas districts
Monday, March 18 – La Ofrenda
07:00: Wake-up call in the Fallas areas
11:15: Gathering of all the commissions in Consell square
11:30: Tribute to the major Falleras of Center, Port Rotes, Diana, and Saladar
14:00: Mascletà in the Fallas districts
20:30: Mascletà in Jaume I Square
23:00: Festivals in the Fallas districts
Tuesday, March 19 – St. Joseph’s Day
07:00: Wake-up call in the Fallas areas
08:00: Children’s wake-up call
10:00: Parades in the Fallas areas
11:00: Mass in honor of St. Joseph at the Church of the Assumption
11:00: Flower offering in honor of la Virgen de los Desamparados (the Virgin of the Forsaken). Route: Marqués de Campo St., Diana St., Magallanes, Convent Sq.
14:30: Mascletàs in the Fallas districts
18:00: Parades in the Fallas districts
19:00: Reception for the new presidents for the 2024-2025 period in the Town Hall Square
Burning Times of the Fallas Dénia 2024
20:00: Burning of the Local Fallas Board of Dénia’s Falla
This is not so well known but the capital of Tenerife, the biggest island in the whole Canaries, holds the second biggest carnival in the world. It is no surprise that Santa Cruz de Tenerife is a twinned city with Rio de Janeiro – the host of the biggest carnival in the world – Carnival of Rio de Janeiro. Throughout the years with the growing tourism, the popularity of the event only grew.
In 1987 more than 250,000 gathered for the performance of Celia Cruz during the Carnival and it was registered by World Guinness Book Records as the biggest people gathering in an outdoor plaza to date. Though it was not acknowledged by the same institution, it is well-recognized that more than 400,000 people gathered during Day Carnival in 2019.
The celebration of the carnival has been in the Canary Islands since the arrival of Europeans. Though considered to be a Christian event, it could be a continuation of some kind of pagan tradition to celebrate the return of light.
Today it is the biggest annual event held in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, but not everybody all the time likes the idea of carnival and wearing masks. Throughout history, there have been several attempts to ban masks or the carnival itself. Despite all the attempts the celebrations persisted. Together with Cadiz, Santa Cruz de Tenerife continued to celebrate the carnival even during the Franco regime when the event was banned, probably due to pagan origins. The resilience of people might be the reason why Santa Cruz de Tenerife hosts such a big carnival these days.
I’ve been to Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife only for The Grand Parade day but from what I saw – it left me with the impression that the city is partying for the whole duration of the Carnival. So, it depends on what you are after for but if fun is the goal – the closer to the city center – the closer to the action. If you are interested only in the parade part of the carnival – anywhere would do. Just keep in mind that you’ll have to get there somehow. TITSA transportation company will have an increased number of buses operating, depending on the crowds.
Staying close to the city center will make you feel like a part of the carnival even when at home. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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Main events: The Queen’s Gala (Feb 7), The Opening Parade of the Carnival (Feb 13), The Big Carnival Parade in Santa Cruz de Tenerife (17 Feb)
Carnival Map
Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife 2024 Schedule
In 2019 when I was visiting Santa Cruz de Tenerife for the event I found it quite difficult to find relevant information except in Spanish. The schedule and location information are taken from the official carnival website(find the reference at the end of the article) and translated into English. Also, I added Google Maps directions to all the locations where the event is taking place. I hope you find this useful because it was exactly what I needed in 2019 when I last visited the carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
Week 1
Friday Jan 12
21:30 – Opening of Carnival 2024
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Though it is hard to take a picture of orchestra performances, they are as much impressive as the Queens of Carnival. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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Sunday, Feb 11
11:00 – Performance of the Afilarmónica Ni fú-Ni fa – Plaza del Príncipe;
During the Grand Parade of the Carnival you can see all of the Queen of Carnival finalists. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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Week 6
Monday, Feb 12
All day – Carnival’s Monday
Tuesday, Feb 13
11:00 – Performance of the Afilarmónica Ni fú-Ni fa – Plaza del Príncipe;
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18:00 – End of Fiesta, the tour of groups through the center of the city. At the end of the great fireworks display – Ron Barceló Stage in the Plaza de La Candelaria;
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Nestled amongst the bustling modernity, Calpe’s old town is a hidden gem, a testament to its rich and diverse history. Wandering through its narrow streets, one can feel the layers of time peeling back, revealing tales of ancient civilizations and bygone eras. The town’s architecture is a mosaic of different influences – from the Moors to the Romans – each leaving an indelible mark on its character. Intricate doorways lead to sun-dappled courtyards, and the scent of traditional Spanish cuisine wafts from small family-owned restaurants. Despite the encroaching modern developments, this part of Calpe remains stubbornly authentic, a bastion of the town’s heritage. It’s a place where the past coexists with the present, offering a serene contrast to the thriving tourist spots nearby. Here, the true essence of Calpe’s spirit endures, unspoiled and enchanting, inviting those who seek more than just a superficial glimpse into its storied past.
The historic center of Calpe is so engulfed by hotels and second-apartment houses that it is very easy to miss it entirely. It took me a couple of years to find it – the old town hides much further from Penon de Ifach and the main beaches. At some point, it felt absolutely unnoticed by the crowds, and thank God. It is a true break from the noisy promenades and touristic restaurants. A small corner where the locals can still enjoy their typical Spanish life on Costa Blanca and I have to say with a style. The tourist cow is bringing a lot of milk to Calpe, and the streets and houses of the historic center are more colourful than an average town in Spain. Though perfect for Instagram pictures, it is not everything Calpe has to offer, the town has a long history which now is literally lost between the hotels.
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Calpe is located at one of the most beautiful geographical places in Costa Blanca. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Calpe’s Origins
Thanks to the graceful rock known as Penon de Ifach (Spanish peñón de translates to the “rock of”, and Libo-Phoenician Ifac to “of the north”), this area has been known at least since the times when the first Phoenicians have been exploring the Iberian shores about 3,000 years ago. These ancient but great navigators referred to Gibraltar and Penon de Ifach as the south and the north rocks, respectively. It wouldn’t surprise anyone if they settled in the area of the current-day Calpe. Especially, given that they were the first historical settlers near the rock of Gibraltar, which back then was known as Mons Calpe (Phoenician the “hollowed mountain”). The archaeological data shows Phoenician presence since 950 BC. Gibraltar was by far not the only Phoenician settlement in the Iberian peninsula, therefore it is a plausible thesis for them to have settled in a town with the same name as Mons Calpe by a similar graceful rock.
The Greeks knew even more Calpes. In 401 BC, after the battle of Cunaxa, the Greek philosopher Xenophon found himself as the leader of 10,000 fleeing men through an unknown country. In his diary, the Greek speaks of Calpe – a large rock on the shores of the Black Sea. It is hard to say if it was the name of a settlement or simply the name for such geological formations. Either way, Calpe was clearly mentioned in that name several times in Xenophon’s diary and in some ancient Greek maps. Today that settlement is probably known as Kerpe.
Translated from Greek, Calpe means something similar to urn or round-vessel. The word might have been used to describe large stand-alone rocks like Gibraltar and Penon de Ifach. Given that the ancient Greeks already knew how to process fish, could it be that Baños de la Reina salting factory was founded much earlier than we imagine? Maybe, Greek sailors colonized the area before the Romans? That remains only a thesis for now.
During the Roman times, Calpe was nothing but a small enclave, dependent on the nearby Dianium (Today’s Denia). Despite its size, this ancient site holds many wonders of its own. The Roman settlement had a hydraulic system, which provided water to its inhabitants. Also, because of its well-preserved mosaics, Calpe is counted as one of the most important Roman heritage sites in the province of Alicante. Today, it lies almost unnoticed between Penon de Ifach and the city center. Ironically, the first hotels of Calpe arose just next to the ancient settlement in the early 20s.
One thing I’m sure of the Spanish ancestors is that they appreciated natural beauty as much as modern humans do, and possibly even more. The Roman baths and fishery pools, known as Baños de la Reina, in Calpe, were built close by Penon de Ifach, just at the right distance to appreciate its magnificence the most. While the site was most likely used mainly for the fish farming and salinating needs of the nearby city Dianium, the scenery must have been taken into account for the location of the settlement. One could argue that the desire of modern people to move to Calpe was inherited from the Romans or the people who have been doing the same process even before.
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Not that many remain in the historic records of Calpe during the Moorish reign. One possibility is that the invasion of the Muslims into the Iberian Peninsula could have given the name to Calpe even before the conquerors arrived here. It is well known that in the 8th century, the Berber commander Tariq ibn Ziyad launched his attack from Gibraltar Rock, which was known ever since as Jabal Tariq (eng. the mountain of Tariq). This name evolved into modern Gibraltar but the town by the iconic rock was known as Calpe since the prehistoric Phoenician times. you can even find the name “Calpe” on the coat of arms of Gibraltar. It could be that in the 8th century, the settlers of Calpe of the straits fled as far as possible to Costa Blanca, where they found a similar rock and named their new settlement in honour of their old home.
After a successful conquest of Marina Alta, the new rulers built their castle further to the South from Calpe, on a mountain, overlooking the Canyon of Mascarat. It was the central administrative and defensive base in the area of Marina Alta to the south of Mount Montgo. The Moors remained in control until the region was reconquered by the Christians somewhere in 1240-54.
Despite that, many Moors were allowed to remain in Iberia in their homes. Those who chose this path got to be known as mudéjar (romanized version of Arabic “mudajjan”, meaning tamed, domesticated). In fact, unlike most of the Iberian Peninsula, Muslims greatly outnumbered Christians in the region of Valencia. These demographics combined with the discrimination and violence against Mudéjar people led to several uprisings, known as Al-Azraq revolts in honour of the famous commander who led all of them. Al-Azraq (Arabian the one with blue eyes) had a Muslim father and a Christian mother. Even after these revolts, the local Muslim population was allowed to live in the area including Calpe until 1526, when Islam was banned in the Kingdom of Aragon. Between 1609-1614, even Moriscos (Mudéjars converted to Christianity) were expelled from the country.
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The Christian Calpe
There are speculations that the city walls of the historic Calpe could be dating as far as Roman times but there is no direct evidence to this thesis. In fact, it was the Christian King Pere IV who ordered the strengthening of the existing walls in 1338 but it was executed only in 1375 under Alfons el Vell who found the money for the job in the budget. It was crucial for the existence of Calpe in these sometimes hostile lands. Soon after, in 1386 the castle of Calpe was divided into towns currently known as Teulada, Benissa, Senija, and Calpe. The newly formed units started to shape the area into what we are used to today.
The central walls of the bastion in the middle of Calpe were built somewhere between the 13th and 14th centuries to protect local farmers from Muslim attacks. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Probably the biggest impact on Marina Alta and Calpe during the Christian reign was done with the terrible decree to expel Moriscos from Spain. It was signed by King Felipe III himself, which left the Moors only with three days to reach the closest port to leave the country. Moriscos were allowed to take only what they could carry on their bodies. Everything else was to stay. To make things worse, anyone who found Moorish people after the three days was allowed to take everything from them and even kill Moriscos if they resisted. This, of course, went wrong in all possible ways, not to mention the fact that the Moors had lived in the Iberian Peninsula for over 800 years at that time. Twice as many years have passed since this inhumane event.
At that time, 127,000 Moriscos, who were expelled or killed represented 30% of the Valencian population. The area of Denia and Javea alone lost about 42,000 people and in many cases, they were the most productive people around. Obviously, these events had counter-productive consequences, and the only people to profit were the people in charge, of selling the homes and other property of Moriscos. Even so, the profits were only short-term because the lands were left uncultivated, and the equilibrium was destroyed. Nothing was left but despair and desolation on the shores of Calpe and Valencia in general. In the 17th century, the town was plagued by Barbary pirates. Calpe was no exception. Most of the coastal areas have experienced the attacks – it was the same Moriscos who had returned to their homeland with rage against Spain. Nevertheless, the population of Calpe kept increasing and the situation of the town finally consolidated after hundreds of years of hardships. The growth of the town continued towards the direction of provincial powerhouses Alicante and Altea.
Today, Calpe is a very popular vacation destination or a second house choice, once again the city seems to have become the home for many different peoples. Maybe, that is the correct recipe for its success.
Wandering around the streets of the historic center of Calpe is well worth at least 1 – 2 hours of your time. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Things to do in Calpe
Explore Valencia from Calpe: Full-Day Excursion
Discover the rich history of Valencia on a day trip from Calpe, with cultural highlights and free time to explore.
If you are interested in finding out more activities in the city, you can read my guide for the best things to do in Calpe.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Valencia, a beautiful city located on the southeastern coast of Spain, is home to a rich cultural heritage that is recognized by UNESCO. This vibrant city boasts four UNESCO World Heritage subjects that showcase its historical and architectural significance. One of them is honored in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites and the other three are marked among the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Naturally, the Valencian culture extends beyond the boundaries of the city, and some of the heritage can be observed and appreciated well beyond the city walls. Nevertheless, Valencia is a perfect example of a city and its peoples transcending cultural habits from over millennia, making it an exceptional cradle of the physical and intangible cultural heritage of Humanity.
Lonja de la Seda de Valencia
The Lonja de la Seda, or the Silk Exchange, is an emblematic symbol of Valencia’s golden age, a period marked by economic and cultural prosperity. Built between 1482 and 1533, this complex of buildings was originally the heart of the silk trade in the city, a bustling center of commerce and social interaction. Its stunning Gothic architecture is not just a visual treat but a narrative of Valencia’s historical significance. The grand Sala de Contratación, or the Contract Hall, is the crown jewel of this complex. This magnificent hall, with its spiraled columns reaching towards the heavens, is a testament to the power and wealth Valencia held as a major Mediterranean mercantile city during the 15th and 16th centuries.
Details
Architect: Pere Compte
Style: Valencian Gothic
Date of Construction: 1482-1533.
Date of Inscription: 1996
Type: World Heritage Site
Location: Plaza del Mercado, 31, 46001 Valencia, Spain
Visit hours: 10 AM – 7 PM (10 AM – 2 PM on Sundays)
1890 Photoglob Co., publisher, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Architectural and Historical Significance
The Lonja de la Seda is a masterpiece that encapsulates the essence of late Gothic architecture. Its design and construction reflect the secular spirit and the cultural richness of the Mediterranean region during that era. The building’s façade, adorned with intricate carvings and gothic motifs, narrates stories of a bygone era. Inside, the lavish detailing and the grandiose columns of the Sala de Contratación create an almost cathedral-like atmosphere, symbolizing the secular power and economic strength of Valencia. This architectural marvel not only served as a commercial hub but also became a social and cultural gathering place, influencing the urban landscape of Valencia.
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Contemporary Relevance
Today, it is not only a tourist attraction but also a cultural landmark that continues to inspire awe and admiration. Its inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites list in 1996 has helped in its preservation and has brought global recognition to Valencia’s rich cultural and historical heritage.
Valencia Fallas Festivity
The Fallas Festivity in Valencia is an annual explosion of color, art, and communal joy, deeply rooted in the local culture and celebrated with unbridled enthusiasm. Inscribed in 2016 as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO, this event, held from March 14 to 19, is a vibrant testament to the community spirit and artistic creativity of Valencia. The festivity’s centerpiece, the giant falla, is an awe-inspiring monument composed of ninots – caricature figures created by local artists that provide a satirical commentary on current social issues. These towering structures, set ablaze in a ritual of renewal and purification, symbolize the onset of spring and the rejuvenation of social activities.
Details
Date of Inscription: 2016
Type: The Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
The Valencia Fallas Festivity is much more than a mere spectacle; it’s a profound expression of local identity and community pride. Each year, neighborhoods come together to construct these elaborate ninots, fostering a sense of unity and cooperation. The Fallas Queen, a winner fallera elected annually, plays a pivotal role in promoting the festivity, embodying the spirit of Valencia and encouraging participation. This festival is not just a celebration; it’s a living tradition, passed down through generations, especially within families who are integral to the construction of the ninots. These families often belong to different guilds, each contributing their unique skills to the festivity. The festival is so popular that cities from neighboring provinces, like Burriana or Fallas in Denia, started to celebrate it as well.
In march 17 the local people dress-up in traditional clothing to bring flowers to the Virgin Mary. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Social Impact and Language Preservation
Historically, the Fallas Festivity has served as a crucial platform for preserving the Valencian language, especially during periods when its use was restricted. This cultural event strengthens community bonds, enhances social cohesion, and provides an outlet for collective creativity. The intricate process of creating the ninots and the elaborate preparations for the festivity play a crucial role in safeguarding traditional arts and crafts. The festival’s communal meals, parades, and fireworks further enrich the social tapestry of Valencia, making it a focal point of cultural identity.
Today, the Fallas Festivity stands as a vibrant symbol of Valencia’s rich cultural heritage, attracting visitors from around the world. Its recognition by UNESCO underscores its significance not just to Valencia, but as a cultural treasure of humanity. The festival’s ability to adapt while maintaining its core traditions is a testament to the resilience and vibrancy of the Valencian community.
Irrigators’ Tribunals of the Spanish Mediterranean Coast
The irrigators’ tribunals of the Spanish Mediterranean coast, an extraordinary example of living history, date back to the times of al-Andalus (9th to 13th centuries). These ancient judicial bodies, inscribed in 2009 as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, epitomize the enduring legacy of traditional law and water management practices in Valencia and Murcia. The two main tribunals – the Council of Wise Men of the Plain of Murcia and the Water Tribunal of the Plain of Valencia – are not mere historical relics; they are active and respected institutions integral to local community life. Operating under Spanish law, these tribunals democratically elect their members, who then judiciously resolve water-related disputes through oral proceedings.
Details
Date of Inscription: 2009
Type: The Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
Date of Event: Each Thursday at 12h00, Valencia
Location: Tribunal de las Aguas de la Vega de Valencia, Plaza de la Virgen, Valencia, Spain
Operating under Spanish law, these tribunals democratically elect their members, who then judiciously resolve water-related disputes through oral proceedings. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cultural and Social Significance
These tribunals are much more than arbiters of water rights; they are the bedrock of community cohesion and agricultural tradition. The process of resolving disputes is conducted publicly, ensuring transparency and fairness, and has been so for centuries. This visible and participatory nature of the tribunals fosters a deep sense of trust and respect within the community. The rites and rituals that accompany the delivery of judgments are not only a spectacle but also reinforce the historical and cultural significance of these institutions. Moreover, the tribunals are celebrated in local iconography, reflecting their embeddedness in the cultural fabric of the region.
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Synergy and Knowledge Transmission
The irrigators’ tribunals also play a crucial role in maintaining the synergy among various traditional occupations, such as wardens, inspectors, and pruners. They are living embodiments of centuries-old cultural exchanges, particularly evident in their unique lexicon, enriched with Arabic terms. It makes them not just about water management; the irrigators are custodians of a rich oral tradition and repositories of local and regional identity. The knowledge and practices associated with these tribunals are passed down through generations, ensuring the survival and relevance of these ancient customs in a modern context.
Irrigators’ Tribunal in Valencia is assembled every Thursday 12 O’Clock by The Door of the Apostles of the Cathedral. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Contemporary Importance
In a world rapidly modernizing and often forgetting its roots, the irrigators’ tribunals stand as a testament to the enduring relevance of traditional practices in contemporary society. They exemplify how ancient wisdom, particularly in resource management, can offer valuable lessons and solutions for present-day challenges. As a UNESCO-recognized site, these tribunals not only garner international attention but also remind us of the importance of preserving such unique cultural practices for future generations.
Manual Bell Ringing
In the cultural tapestry of Valencia, manual bell ringing holds a unique and resonant place. Recognized in 2022 as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, this tradition is much more than a musical practice; it’s a form of communication deeply embedded in the community’s life. For centuries, the bells of Valencia have served numerous social functions, from marking time to signaling important events and emergencies like fires or floods. The intricate language of bell ringing, with its specific coded messages, is not just understood but cherished by the local communities.
Details
Date of Inscription: 2022
Type: The Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
Manual bell ringing could be still heard across Valencia in churches like the Church of San Juan del Mercado or the Cathedral. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Variety and Techniques
The art of bell ringing in Valencia showcases a rich variety of sounds, each with its own significance and occasion. The diversity in the ringing patterns is attributed to the combination of different techniques like chiming, turning, or half-turning, and the skills of the bell ringers. These sounds are further influenced by the physical characteristics and acoustical properties of the bells, towers, and belfries. This results in a deep and extensive repertoire, encompassing both religious and civic contexts, thereby integrating the art into various facets of community life.
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Transmission and Preservation
The transmission of this art form is a testament to the community’s commitment to preserving its cultural heritage. Knowledge and skills of bell ringing are passed down from experienced bell ringers to younger generations, often through formal groups or organizations dedicated to this practice. These groups play a pivotal role not just in ringing the bells but in documenting, researching, and disseminating the art. The involvement of young people in this tradition is particularly noteworthy, as they are not only the custodians of this legacy but also active participants in recruiting new enthusiasts, ensuring the continuity and dynamism of this ancient art.
Manual bell ringing in Valencia is more than a tradition; it’s a living, breathing part of the city’s identity. Its recognition by UNESCO underscores its importance not just as a cultural artifact but as a vibrant, continuing practice. In an age dominated by digital communication, the bells of Valencia remind us of the enduring power and beauty of traditional forms of communication and community bonding. As we move forward, preserving and celebrating such traditions becomes ever more crucial in maintaining our connection to our past and to each other.
Popular Things to Do in Valencia
Catamaran Cruise with Sunset Option
Enjoy a relaxing catamaran cruise, day or sunset, with a glass of cava.
Nestled within the inland of the breathtaking region of Marina Alta in Spain, La Vall de Laguar is a splendid union of three picturesque towns: Campell, Fleix, and Benimaurell, plus Fontilles – a renowned senatorium and research center for the diseases of the poor. Each of these towns boasts its unique charm, telling tales of ancient civilizations, vibrant cultures, and the rich tapestry of Spanish history.
Visitors to La Vall de Laguar are often drawn to its enchanting vistas, a blend of serene mountains and lush valleys. The landscape here paints a picture of untouched nature and promises an intimate experience with the land’s pure essence. The region offers an array of activities, from trekking along the rugged mountain trails to indulging in the tranquil beauty of its valleys. For those who seek an authentic Spanish experience, La Vall de Laguar serves as a portal to the past, all while offering modern comforts and amenities.
For the discerning traveler, a trip to La Vall de Laguar isn’t just about the sights; it’s a call to connect deeply with the soul of Spain. The allure of the towns and their heartwarming residents beckons you to immerse yourself in their way of life. As you plan your next adventure, consider the magic of La Vall de Laguar and embrace the opportunity to journey through time and beauty.
History & Legend of La Vall de Laguar
But beneath the idyllic silent landscapes lies a tale of a bloody resistance and legend, centered around the Cavall Verd Ridge (Valenciano as “Cavall Verd” and Castellano “Caballo Verde”). This area, resonating with the echoes of history, was the final bastion of the Moors, who faced their forced exile in 1609. The legend woven into these hills speaks of Ezzme de Laguart, a renowned sorceress and healer from Laguar, whose prophecy of the green horse sparked a rebellion against their expulsion.
In a valiant stand, 1500 local rebels, led by the farmer Mellini, gathered at the Cavall Verd crest, armed with mere slingshots, stones, and a crossbow, to face a formidable force of five thousand battle-hardened soldiers from Naples and Sicily. Despite their courage, the Moorish resistance met a tragic end, with many choosing to leap from the cliffs or hide in the Cavall Verd caves rather than face defeat. This tragic conflict saw the valley emptied of its original inhabitants, only to be repopulated in 1611 by settlers from Mallorca, whose descendants still carry the legacy of this historical moment in their family names today.
Campell
Steeped in history and surrounded by natural splendor, Campell stands as a testament to the timeless beauty of Marina Alta. Originally established as an Iberian settlement, the town has witnessed the ebb and flow of various cultures, from the Romans to the Moors, and then back to the Christians. These historic imprints are evident in the town’s architecture, blending Moorish designs with more modern Spanish influences.
Today, Campell is a harmonious mix of the past and present. Its narrow cobbled streets lead visitors through a maze of quaint houses, with bursts of colorful flowers adorning balconies and courtyards. The town square, buzzing with life, serves as a gathering spot for both locals and tourists alike, offering a glimpse into the daily life of the community. Modern amenities have found their place in Campell without overshadowing its historic charm. Local cafes and eateries provide a culinary journey, highlighting the region’s rich flavors and traditional recipes. As night falls, the town transforms into a peaceful haven, with the soft glow of street lamps illuminating its charming pathways.
Also known as Poble d’Enmig (“Town of In the Middle”), Fleix is not just a tranquil little town in the heart of La Vall de Laguer. It is a town with roots that trace back centuries, Fleix’s historical narrative is as captivating as its scenic beauty. I was once a strategic stronghold during the era of the Moors. Its elevated location provided both defense and a vantage point overlooking the majestic valleys below. But, after the expulsion of the Moors and repopulation in 1611, Fleix joined arms with Benimaurell and Campell to form a single unit.
Today, Fleix has maintained its quaint charm, seamlessly blending the old with the new. Its winding alleys echo tales of yesteryears, guiding visitors past beautifully preserved stone houses, remnants of ancient fortifications, and the iconic church that stands as the town’s spiritual heart. The church’s bell, with its melodious chimes, punctuates the daily rhythm of life in Fleix.
While the town may seem secluded at first glance, it’s this very seclusion that lends it its unparalleled charm. Modern conveniences, though present, take a backseat, allowing the town’s history and nature to shine. Whether it’s indulging in local delicacies at a family-owned eatery, hiking and embracing the marvelous nature of La Vall de Laguar, or simply basking in the panoramic views from a hilltop, Fleix invites you to slow down, breathe deep, and savor every moment.
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Benimaurell
Situated amidst the undulating landscapes of La Vall de Laguar, Benimaurell is a gem that sparkles with a rich cultural heritage. Its origins are steeped in stories of ancient civilizations, and its streets bear witness to epochs gone by. In times past, Benimaurell served as an essential crossroad for traders and travelers, a nexus where diverse cultures met, exchanged, and coexisted.
Modern-day Benimaurell is a mosaic of history and contemporary life. Its skyline is punctuated with historic towers, remnants of fortifications that once protected its residents from external threats. These architectural marvels now stand alongside newer structures, embodying the town’s evolution over time. Benimaurell’s location, cradled by mountains and overlooking lush valleys, offers a respite from the hustle and bustle, making it an ideal haven for those seeking peace and inspiration.
Best time to visit: Spring and Fall, when the weather is mild and the landscape is in full bloom.
Map of Marina Alta Activities
Best Hiking Trails in La Vall de Laguar
This region of Costa Blanca is a paradise for people who love to spend their time enjoying the bliss of the wonderful nature of Spain. Whether you choose hiking trails on the coast of Marina Alta or inland, you are on top of the game. It doesn’t mean that the best walking routes around Benidorm in Marina Baixa are worse, but Marina Alta as a region is on a totally another level, and La Vall de Laguar is not an exception but rather a rule.
One of the most famous trails, this route lets hikers witness the ‘Hell’s Gorge’ up close. The trail stretches approximately 14 km/8.7 mi and offers panoramic views of cascading waterfalls, ancient Moorish terraces, diverse local flora, and the so-called “La Catedral of Senderismo” (eng. “The Cathedral of Hiking”).
PR-CV 181 Cavall Verd
The PR-CV 181 Cavall Verd trail, often referred to as “The Watchman’s Pathway,” is a journey steeped in legend and natural beauty. This moderate-level hike stretches approximately 12 km / 7.5 mi, leading adventurers through a mosaic of landscapes that define the Marina Alta region.
The trail’s name, Cavall Verd, translates to ‘Green Horse,’ and is said to be named after the silhouette of the mountain that resembles a horse’s back. Local lore also speaks of vigilant watchmen who, during times of conflict, would use these heights to spot impending threats from afar.
Spanning roughly ±14 km/8.5 mi, this trail gives a comprehensive view of the entire valley. Hikers pass through dense forests, orchards, and traditional Spanish hamlets, soaking in the essence of La Vall de Laguar.
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Fontilles Viewpoint Trail
Ideal for those looking for a light trek, this 6 km/3.7 mi trail culminates at a viewpoint overlooking the Fontilles Sanatorium. The trail meanders through aromatic herb patches and provides opportunities for bird-watching.
How to Get to La Vall de Laguar
Reaching La Vall de Laguar is a journey as rewarding as the destination itself, with scenic routes offering glimpses of the Spanish countryside’s charm.
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By Car
Setting out from Alicante on the A-70, the cityscapes gradually give way to coastal vistas as you merge onto the AP-7 towards Valencia. Take exit 62, and the N-332 briefly teases with coastal charm before guiding you onto the CV-729 towards Orba. From there, the winding CV-721 weaves through the countryside, culminating in the welcoming embrace of La Vall de Laguar, where the heart of the town offers ample parking.
By Bike
For the more adventurous, biking to La Vall de Laguar provides an exhilarating experience. There are several bike rental shops in nearby cities like Alicante and Denia. The route, while hilly, offers cyclists a chance to immerse themselves in the region’s natural beauty. Ensure you have a map or GPS, as some trails can be less straightforward.
When I visited La Vall de Laguar for the first time it was a big surprise, and love, almost, from the first sight. Seldom do you find such a relatively easy area to access, yet so mesmerizing with its sheer beauty and the strong aura of remoteness. Of course, the inland parts of Marina Alta like La Val de la Gallinera share those feats, but it is much harder to access as it often requires a dedicated day, while La Vall de Laguar’s location in a relative proximity to the access to the A7 highway, making this area a much more flexible option for a visit.
Another great feature of La Vall de Laguar is its space planning resulting in decent facilities. Unfortunately, you won’t find a public WC but, at least, parking won’t be a problem. Furthermore, the hiking trails are marked really well, and you’ll find plenty of information in English together with the usual local languages Valencian and Castellano.
All things combined, I think La Vall de Laguar makes a perfect peaceful getaway from the ever-busy coast of Costa Blanca and Costa del Azahar. Not only it is a picturesque adventure but it offers an escape into the tranquil yet unsung nature of Spanish mountains. No matter how many friends I have brought to these areas, they were highly impressed by the pristine beauty of it. I wonder if the close proximity to the overpopulated coast gives an extra charm to the immediate pearls of the inland due to the high contrasts. One way or another, La Vall de Laguar makes a perfect destination for anyone who wants to experience Marina Alta by heart and to its fullest.
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cartagena is an ancient port city located in the Region of Murcia, southeastern Spain. Cartagena has been inhabited for over two millennia, and its history and culture can be seen in the many archaeological sites and monuments found across the city. Roman ruins, such as the forum, temple, and amphitheater, which together with the Christian Conception Castle from the XIII century AD are some of the most popular tourist attractions in Cartagena. Not to mention the Carthaginian, Byzantine or Moorish remains, and the modern Art Noveau architectural masterpieces scattered throughout the city, which combined make you feel like in open doors museum.
Cartagena is also home to the Museo Nacional de Arqueología Subacuática, which contains artifacts from the many shipwrecks that have occurred in the area. Cartagena is also the home to the first modern working submarine in the world – The Peral Submarine – which could be seen in Cartagena Naval Museum. The city continues its nautical traditions and hosts a Naval and Oceanic Engineering University and a naval military base. One of the four main military bases of the Spanish Navy and the only one located on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. This speaks volumes of the city’s strategic importance to whoever possesses it. Naturally, various military ships could be observed docked in the port of Cartagena. Huge tankers, and huge cruise ships are also a common sight. Overall, the second largest city in Murcia is a perfect city for naval, military, and history enthusiasts.
Cartagena was founded in 229 BC by Hasdrubal Barca under the name of Qart-Hadast. He was a son of Hamilcar Barca and brother-in-law of the legendary Carthaginian general Hannibal Barca, who is often cited as the biggest outside threat that the Roman Republic ever faced. Cartagena was one of the towns founded by the Punics during the expansion of their activities in the Iberian Peninsula after the First Punic War to pay off rather unfair reparations demanded by the Romans after the First Punic War, explaining the ancient mines surrounding the city like the ones in La Union and Mazzaron. It was a minelar rich area, and the peninsula surrounded by the sea, a natural Laguna and mountains seemed like a perfect location for a city. The conditions were so good, that Hasdrubal forseen the town as the Capital of his Iberian Kingdom. He even built a fancy Palace on Molinete Hill, so magnificent that would only fit a King.
Unfortunately, Qart-Hadast didn’t last for long. The newly-found city was captured by the Romans in 209 BC during the second Punic Wars, 9 years after Hannibal launched the attack from this town against the Roman Republic and their allies in 218. The victors renamed the newly-founded Qart-Hadast to Cartago Nova. The mining opportunities made the town one of the most prosperous settlements in Romana Hispanica. By the end of the I century, the most exposed deposits were depleted but Cartagena remained flourishing during the Roman period – it was an essential port for trade and commerce.
Post-Roman Times
After the fall of the Roman Empire, followed the fall of Cartago Nova. The city was sacked and occupied by the Visigoths and later on by the Moors. It was recaptured by the Christians in 1245 and became an important naval base for the Spanish fleet. During the 18th century, Cartagena was a major trading port for goods from the Americas.
Unfortunately, due to its importance, Cartagena has seen a lot of war. It was the site of a major naval battle in 1741 between the British and the Spanish. Later on, Cartagena was besieged by the French in 1811, and it was bombarded by the British in 1812. The city was partially destroyed during the Cantonal Revolution, captured by the Americans in 1898 during the Spanish-American War. But in the end it was the Spanish Nationalists who did the most damage to the city. During the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939), Cartagena was the main naval base of the Republican Government and it was the last city to surrender to the forces of General and future dictator Francisco Franco.
During the Spanish Civil War, Cartagena was the main naval base of the Republican Government. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Today, Cartagena is a popular tourist destination known for its exciting mix of old and new architecture, exceptionally rich history, good local Spanish cuisine, and big range of various beverages. Besides cultural ventures, the city is known for its beautiful natural location surrounded by mountains, filled with remote beaches, and coves.
Map of Cartagena
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The Punic Wall in Cartagena is a defensive wall built by Carthaginians before the second Punic Wars period somewhere between 229 and 209 BC. This cultural monument is among the top things to do in Cartagena because it is the only clearly visible remaining piece of the original Carthaginian Qart-Hadast. The wall was built in order to protect the city from the local enemies and potentially future confrontations with Romans. Being one of the most well-preserved Punic walls remaining, it is a very important archaeological site not only on the National scale but on a global as well. The Punic Wall in Cartagena is one of the very few archaeological remains of Carthaginians in Spain.
Interesting that the remaining wall is facing the only land passage to the fortified part of the town. The first attempt to conquer Qart-Hadast by Romans failed miserably and had both tribunals slain together with their armies somewhere by these Punic walls. Nevertheless, the resilient Romans returned under the command of Publius Cornelius Scipio, a son, and nephew of the two commanders who died during the first attempt. He had his troops establish their base on Mount Mercury (Cabezo de los Motos), not too far from Cartagena. From there the Romans proceeded a blockade, though with limited results. The great Roman general had his difficulties penetrating the city’s walls but he wouldn’t be great if he didn’t. Scipio ordered some troops to trespass the salty lagoon from the north. Carthaginians didn’t respect enemies from that side, so the troops climbed the walls unnoticed after which they were able to open the main gates and let the rest of the army into the city. After this ingenious plan, most of the Carthaginians surrendered while a few fought their last on the hills of Conception and Molinete.
One of the most spectacular things about the Punic Wall is its precisely cut stones. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
In addition to the oldest defense fortress in Cartagena, you’ll get to see awkwardly uncomfortable macabre Dances of Death paintings in the 16-17th century Crypt of San Jose, which was excavated at the same time as the wall and seems to have been built within it.
Roman Amphitheater (5-1 BC)
The Roman Amphitheater of Cartagena is one of the best-preserved Roman theaters in Spain and the second largest in the Iberian Peninsula, falling under the equivalent in Merida, Extremadura. The amphitheater was built in 5-1 BC during the reign of the great Emperor Augustus and was dedicated to his grandchildren. At that time it originally seat up to 6,000 people. Today, due to its good condition and some renovations, the amphitheater is still used for cultural events such as plays and concerts.
The Roman Theater in Cartagena is one of the best-preserved amphitheaters in Spain. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The amphitheater is the home to the archeology museum, where you can learn not only about the Roman past but the evolution of the surrounding area throughout the years. It was always in the center of Cartagena’s development – nowhere else the intermix of the cultures could be better observed in the city. The Roman Amphitheater could also be appreciated from the castle hill, but you can only learn more about its fascinating history if you decide to visit the museum.
The Roman Fortuna House in Cartagena is a museum offering a unique experience of taking a glimpse into the past of the daily life of Romans. The exposition is located in the former home of Patrician living in Cartagena. Here you’ll get to learn about the typical Roman upper-class villas, the museum also contains a collection of Roman artifacts that were found during the excavations in the area. Probably the most interesting remains of Fortuna House are the mosaics and mural paintings.
The name of the house comes from the inscription “Fortuna”, located at the back door. This Latin phrase translates to “Good luck”. Roman houses typically included such inscriptions in the entrance to the home to welcome visitors and warm intruders.
House Fortuna offers a unique opportunity to take a glimpse into lives of Patricians in the Roman Republic. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Roman Forum (I Century AD)
The Roman Forum of a rectangular site located in the center of the city. It measures approximately 100 x 50 meters. The Forum was the center of public life in the city during the Roman period. It was probably built in the 1st century BC and was in use until the 5th century AD. The Roman Forum was used for public speeches, meetings, and other events. Probably the most fascinating thing about this archaeological site is that the excavations never stopped and new artifacts and findings continue to emerge.
The Roman Forum could be observed from Arqueológico Cerro del Molinete Park located on the hill near the site but if you want to learn more about this timeless site you can do so in the Molinete Roman Forum Museum. It is dedicated to the findings that were made in the area, including the Colonial Forum. the Sanctuary of Isis, the Port’s Thermal Baths, and the Atrium building. The museum contains a collection of Roman artifacts that were found in the area, as well as a number of other archaeological items.
The Conception Castle was built in the 13th century by the Order of Calatrava to defend the city from attack. The castle is situated on the top of Conception Hill, overlooking the harbor and the city, which offers probably the best vistas over Cartagena. This site was used as a military base until the early 20th century, but today it is the perfect place to get closer to the history of the city. Before the current Christian castle, here stood a Roman temple dedicated to Asclepius, and a Moorish castle later on.
The area around the Conception Castle is open to all visitors and could be accessed either on foot or by the panoramic lift. The castle itself could be visited for a fee and it offers even more beautiful vistas and some insights into the evolution of the city over more than two millennia.
One of the most pleasant surprises in Cartagena is its modernist architecture from the times of the gold rush in the XIX century. Advancing technologies made ‘depleted’ deposits from the Roman times profitable again, thus many traveled to the areas with high mining potential like Cartagena for a better fortune. At that time the city was partly destroyed during the Cantonal Revolution of 1873 making it a perfect storm for the construction of the new modernist buildings to reflect the sudden riches that Carthaginians experienced at this time. Everything was built in Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles to reflect the prosperity of Cartagena and its inhabitants.
One of the most beautiful buildings from Art Nouveau times – Gran Hotel de Cartagena. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
For recent years I’ve been living in Vienna, which is obviously no stranger to splendid Art Nouveau and Art Deco architecture, but the extravagance found in Cartagena from the XIX and XX centuries doesn’t stop to surprise me. Some buildings, like the Grand Hotel, we’re of course inspired by the modernist Viennese and French architecture. Other notable Art Nouveau masterpieces found in Cartagena include Aguirre Palace, Consistorial Palace, Casa Maestre, Casata Clares, Casa Cervantes, Casa Dorda, Casa Llagostera, Casa Zapata, and the Casino. Exploring the city in search of these masterpieces is a fun thing to do, though it is a bit heartbreaking at the same time because many of their architectural masterpieces are left to ruin, or partly destroyed already. With the current economic status of the city, Carthaginians don’t find a fit for such extravagant buildings.
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Cartagena Streetview
I have to admit, it took me quite a few visits before I started visiting museums. Cartagena is so much fun and rewarding to simply wander around and explore. It is like a book of history itself. See it yourself.
Personal Experience
Undoubtedly, Cartagena is one of my, if not THE favorite cities in the whole country. Nowhere else I have seen so much fascinating and difficult history of the Iberian Peninsula in such a small place. In Cartagena, it is absolutely normal to find Roman, Arab, Christian, and modern in such close proximity, almost on top of each other. The city is like a history book. Cartagena is an absolute must-visit for every culture and history fan, though nature enthusiasts will be surprised by the surrounding nature as well.
Cartagena itself has no beaches but there are spectacular coves and sandy beaches in the surrounding area. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the DotsAll content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Situated in one of the least densely populated regions of the Valencian Community – Alto Maestrazgo, Ares del Maestrat, like the whole area is defined by nature, not by men. One can only wonder what brought the first settlers to this remote and from the first sight unhospitable area. It could be the beauty of nature itself or safety, but note that it is not unusual for Ares del Maestrat to be covered by snow during the colder periods of the year. The usage of firewood was a very common practice until recently. The locals’ livelihood was under nature’s mercy for at least a thousand years.
The raison d’etre of Ares del Maestrat might lie in the name of the settlement with less than 200 inhabitants. As a matter of fact, there are plenty of towns named Ares from the Comtat region (north of Alicante) to the Pyrenees Mountains. Since they seem to be founded on the mountains, scholars link them to the Latin word “Aras” (eng. Altar), not Ares – “the animal”. To understand the reason behind it we must look a bit deeper into the past, to be precise to the times of Romans. It is now known that they made sacrifices to the Gods, most notably Mercury, once Romans passed a mountain pass, like the one at Ares del Maestrat.
Today, relatively few tourists trespass this humble yet grandiose town. Ares del Maestrat is clearly overshadowed by some of the bigger names in the region, making it an even more charming destination. Sightseeing it is like visiting Morella without tourists but maybe Morella is Ares del Maestrat with tourists – you name it.
Best time to visit: May through October, for warm weather hiking and exploring
Map of Ares del Maestrat
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Situated on 1 231 m / 4 039 ft, the castle of Ares del Maestrat only by pure coincidence was conquered by the Christians from Moors in either 1231 or 1232. It must be either the first date or the mountain was a meter taller one thousand years ago. One way or another, Ares del Maestrat is located in a very strategically important place. As a matter of fact, it was the first Castle captured by King Jaime I during the Christian Reconquista of the Iberian Peninsula in the area now considered the Valencian Community.
Later on, it was passed to the almost mythical Order of Templar Knights, and their ‘ban’ to the Order of Montesa. Originally, it is thought that the Moors were the first ones to build a castle here. Still, it wouldn’t surprise me if Gaulic tribes first inhabited the castle-towns like Ares del Maestrat, Culla, and Morella much earlier because these towns look exactly like the Gaulic strongholds, described in Julius Ceasar’s diaries during his brutal conquest of Gaul.
Nevertheless, even with the very widespread ignorance of the Iberian Peninsula’s past before the Spanish Reconquista among the local historians, more serious scholars admit that these areas, including Ares del Maestrat, have been inhabited for a long time. This is proven not only by archeologists but by the cave paintings, most notably in Cova Remígia with over 700 figures created approx 7 000 years ago. These paintings visualize activities like hunting and even honey collecting, which probably speaks of the local crafts during that period.
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Streetview of Ares del Maestrat
Other Things to do in Castellon
From Valencia: Discover Morella and Peñíscola with tickets
Discover two of the most beautiful towns in Spain, Morella and Peñíscola, on a day trip from Valencia.
Given the relatively high amount of Templar or other castles in the area, Ares del Maestrat is almost entirely forgotten. In my opinion, it doesn’t do justice. No other town in the province is elevated at these heights, even Morella. This alone gives Ares del Maestrat an unexpectedly eerie and mesmerizing atmosphere, but given its relatively close location to the coast, the contrast is taunting. Just in one hour, you could get from the buzzing streets of endless tourists to a tiny medieval village, rising more than a kilometer above sea level with nothing but green hills and mountains in the surrounding stunning landscape. The whole town seems to host fewer people than you can find in 20 sq m in some of the more busy towns situated on the coast. It is a truly magical escape from the worst to the best in terms of Spanish authenticity you could get.
A short ride to Ares del Maestrat makes a perfect one-day trip from coastal towns like Bennicasim, Ortopesa, Torrenostra, Alcossebre, or even Peniscola (which is an architectural wonder of its own). You can even combine it with another medieval town-fortress Culla, or if you are quick – Vilafamés, which is listed as one of the top 100 most beautiful villages in Spain. Ares del Maestrat falls short of this list but I’m sure it is just because the Province of Castellon has so much to offer, and you can’t add them all. From my personal experience traveling Spain, Ares del Maestrat is no less attractive than any other small picturesque town found across the country.
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Without a doubt, Marina Alta is the most beautiful region of Costa Blanca. It wouldn’t surprise me if it was ranked right there at the top on a hypothetical factual “the most beautiful Mediterranean coastlines of mainland Europe”. There is no such list but what I’m trying to say – Marina Alta is exceptionally beautiful. You might not have heard of it but sure you have heard of Ibiza and Balearic Islands? Marina Alta is the part of Spain between the gulf of Valencia and the gulf of Alicante, which is the closest point to these iconic Spanish islands. I would argue that the cliffs and some of the beaches are just as beautiful as in the islands. One way or another, any of the best hikes in Marina Alta could be a very pleasant surprise.
Due to the beauty and magic of its landscape, Marina Alta was densely populated by Iberian Culture from about 8th century BC. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Geography & Geology
The direct translation of Marina Alta from Spanish to English is the “high port”, as an opposition to the nearby Marina Baixa, or the “low docks”, the region surrounding Benidorm. The name of Marina Alta could be easily explained by geography and geology. The region is located on the southernmost edge of mainland Spain, which has raised from the sea millions of years ago, when the Eurasian plate collided with the African one. This massive event led to the genesis of many mountains in Europe, but the closest to the point of origin are the Betic Mountains, with Marina Alta located on one end of it. The other being nothing else but famous Gibraltar and Betic Mountains dominating the scenery of the whole landscape in-between in one way or another.
As Phoenicians themselves noticed in ancient times, Betic Mountains is more or less the area between the Western Rock (Gibraltar) and the Eastern Rock (Penon de Ifach). Technically, the latter one being a part of Marina Alta but since I wrote about climbing Penon de Ifach so much, this hiking route will escape the list at least for now. Despite that, the famous Cape rock adds to the region of Marina Alta, which is simply could be called a hikers’ paradise.
Calla del Moraig – Calla del Llebeig (Los Acantilados)
Los Acantilados hike is probably the most popular outdoor destination in the area for the high and exceptionally beautiful beaches: Cala del Moraig and Cala Llebeig. The first one is a very popular attraction on its own, offering very unique geological formations, and the latter one is a pristine remote fishing beach, straight out from a postcard. They are connected via the Los Acantilados hike, which a semi-easy walk amid very high cliffs. The route offers majestic views all the way. If you can deal with some steps, the heights, and the crowds, this could be easily the hike to pursue in Marina Alta.
From left to right: Cap de la Nao, La Granadella, Morro Falqui & Falla del Moraig. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Though the official hiking trail of Los Acantilados goes past Cala Llebeig back upwards the mountain, there is no reasonable option to make it a circle route. I did not find it to be a major problem as the views are equally stunning in both directions. The hiking trail goes along the cliffs, somewhere in a midst of it. This gives an illusion of being somewhere remote in nature, though in reality the cliff is heavily urbanized just above your head. Along Los Acantilados you’ll find a few remote hermit houses, used to shelter animals by shepherds almost 100 years ago.
While the hiking trail between the two beaches is relatively short, it is not possible to quickly cruise through the whole route. Parts of the hike require extra attention due to the narrow passages by the steep cliffs. The final section of the hike gives breath-taking views of Cala Llebeig, but descending to the beach might be not for everybody. Climbing back up will literally going to take your breath away.
The descend to Calla Llebeig might be not for everybody, but the viewpoint itself is worth the hike. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cova dels Arcs
Los Acantilados might be the most sought hiking trail in Marina Alta, but it doesn’t define everything this gorgeous corner has to offer. At the edge of Cala dėl Moraig lies a beautiful cave – Cova dels Arcs. It has a few entrances forming a spider-like rock sculpture Cova dels Arcs is a perfect example of what happens when a continental karst system goes underwater. Today, this exceptional geological formation is a symbol of the Valencian coastline and challenges Los Acantilados for the top tourist destination in Benitachell.
Another interesting geological formation found right next to Cala del Moraig and Cova dels Arcs is Falla del Moraig. You can access it on a short 15-min walking trail (marked pink) right from Cala del Moraig. Many people mistake this hiking route with Los Acantilados, thus be sure to check the hiking map, I provided above.
Though Falla del Moraig resembles a phallus, the word “falla” stands for a fault, because this geological formation is a good example of a normal fault line. This creative term describes a crack within the earth, where the upper block slides down relative to the block below. These kinds of slides are possible causation of earthquakes. The gap between geological blocks formed because waves of the Mediterranean eroded the lower part of the upper block and the rock have collapsed. It is possible to see the continuation of this fault line on the other side of Cala del Moraig.
Los Acantilados hikign trail begins at the parking of Cala Moraig not the beach itself. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cala Barraca – Cap Prim Hike
A hike to an exceptionally beautiful narrow piece of nature pressed to the very edge of high cliffs by countless fancy mansions. Cap Prim (eng. Prim Cape) is a very tip of a larger peninsula of mainland Spain – the closest point to the Balearic islands. That explains both the reason why it attracts so many rich people and the awe-inspiring views of a landscape, which is more similar to a south Asian than a European one. The people are not the only inhabitants of Cap Prim. Many bird species find this narrow piece of land as their home, which is still dwarfed by the colonies living on the Island of Portixol that dominates the scenery throughout most of the time during this wonderful hike.
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The Cap Prim is a real paradise on the edge of the Betic Mountains, whose high cliffs dip into the Mediterranean. The close encounter of mountains and sea sculpted out this majestic landscape throughout the endless years and today – to put it bluntly – it is absolutely stunning. Cap Prim is a true hidden secret as there not much information on the Internet but once you are in the area, something naturally draws you there. As my experience has shown me, this is that kind of hike, which literally sucks you in. A real step-turner, if you pardon the pun. It doesn’t matter, where you’d start the route, you’ll end up in Cap Prim.
Though accidentally I walked to Cap Prim from Cala Blanca (3.94 km / 2.45 mi), I intended and recommend doing so via the official route. You could either start at Cala Barraca (3.67 km / 2.28 mi) or Creu de Portixol (2.14 km / 1.33 mi). Though have in mind that the latter one has very limited parking options, and getting to Cala Barraca might be not an option for less experienced drivers. If you have time, hiking from Cala Blanca is still a very viable option.
Torre de Vigia Walking Trail (El Portet Beach – Cap d’Or)
The climb up to the watchtower of Cap d’Or (eng. d’Or Cape) is an hour-long hike, beginning at El Portet Beach in Moraira, which is an outstanding travel destination on its own. The first part of the hike leads through some fancy estates, facing the Mediterranean but soon the road leads into the protected areas of micro-reserve. From there on, the rich history of this small area unveils itself. Besides the expected watchtower, Cap d’Or houses an ancient Iberian settlement and a prehistoric cave. Thanks to a recent infrastructure investment all these places could be reached on foot. At the end of the day, the climb to the Watchtower of Cap d’Or is a magical experience. Let alone the views of the Mediterranean or El Portet beach, but the cape has a positive aura attached to it.
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La Cova de les Cendres (eng. Cendra Cave) is considered to be one of the most important archeological sites in the Iberian Peninsula. The cave was inhabited since the prehistoric times some 20,000 years ago to the Neolithic period 8,000 years ago (The final stage of the Stone Age, characterized by domesticated animals and crops).
The trail down to the Cendra Cave a recent addition as a part of the renewal project of Torre de Vigia walking trail. Making it a good choice for either history fans or off-beaten path adventurers. The trail has a few but very steep steps. It leaves me wondering about the toughness of the prehistoric people – one thing is to descend to or ascend from the cave, but keeping cattle over there?
Caves facing the Mediterranean with an evidence of the prehistoric people are found across the coastline of Marina Alta. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cap d’Or
The name of d’Or Cap translates into the Golden Cape, which is associated with the Sun Cult of the Iberian Culture. It is the same word from the infamous “matador”, or “atoreador” from bullfighting, which possibly derived from some ancient Iberian ritual of sacrificing a bull to the Golden Sun.
At the foot of the 16th watchtower of Cap d’Or, lies the ruins of ancient Iberian town. It is not the first such archeological site in the Province of Alicante that gives this energized feeling. Like many ancient cultures, Iberians chose magic places for their settlements or sacred places, based on the movements of the Sun or constellations. Given the rich scenery visible from the top of Cap d’Or: Penon de Ifach, Sierra de Bernia, Sierra de Gelada, and even Puig Campana, I imagine the whole calendar could be laid-out on the horizon.
From left to right: Penon de Ifach, Sierra Gelada, Sierra Bernia & Puig Campana. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Hiking Granadella
Luckily for us, the Granadella Forest Park area for some reason was left uninhabited, making it one of only two such areas by the coast of Marina Alta. (The other one is, of course, the natural park of El Montgo). Though this park is labeled as a forest, almost no trees are here today. The reason behind this is the terrible wildfires in 2016 that completely devastated vast areas between Javea and Granadella. Remember that most such wildfires are caused by people, so if you chose to hike during a dry season, be extra careful with fire.
Today, despite being nothing exceptional compared to the famous Park in Marina Alta – El Montgo, being uninhabited alone makes the area around Granadella special. The reason is the possibility to find traces of the original flora and fauna here, which is very rare on the coastline in Marina Alta. To be honest, across the whole country. Among the interesting fauna that you might encounter are hedgehogs, dormice and beetles. You might be not lucky enough to spot these but I’m sure that across the hike you’ll encounter various species of plants and birds like larks, serins, and swallows.
Tip: Note that this area lacks shade, so it is better to come early or in the evening.
Granadella beach hike is going to unveil most of this unique green space has to offer. The hike will start from urbanización located by the foot of Mount Llorenca and will lead you through a plateau with some ravines. The road will slowly take you towards the cliffs with beautiful vistas of the Mediterranean and Granadella Beach itself. Though the descent to the sea level is relatively steep it is not dangerous at all like in some other hikes on the list. Unfortunately, the beach could be reached by car as well, so it won’t feel as remote as some other places. The upside of this is a couple of cozy restaurants and water sports gear rent. The hike should be perceived as a semi-circular trail in a green area by the sea anyway. Access to Granadella Beach on the midway is just a bonus. It is a perfect option if you are not sure if you want to spend a day in nature or by the beach.
Mount Montgo Massif homes the largest natural park in Marina Alta. Located between the two most populous towns in the region – Denia and Javea – Montgo Nature Park is a naturally popular location for hiking. It has the biggest variety of different difficult routes, and probably is the best destination for a decent outdoors challenge.
Key features
High cliffs
Large green areas
Variety of hikes
Mount Montgo massive faces the Mediterranean forming giant cliffs along the coast. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Denia – Cova Tallada Hike
This is a very rewarding, semi-short but a bit difficult hike for inexperienced outdoors people. To most of us, it would be an easy walk in a park without a need for a map but due to the high traffic of visitors, the route becomes a bit more dangerous than it should, so you must be careful of other people’s actions. Otherwise, it is an enjoyable walk along the cliffs, facing the Mediterranean with a few steps and narrow passages with chains.
Key features
Cova Tallada cave system
Mount Montgo high cliffs
Good snorkeling
Cliff diving
Kayaking alternative
The entrance to Cova Talada is hidden down a small cliff, just above the Mediterranean. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Hike details
Location: Montgo Natural Park
Starting Location: Denia
Target Location: La Cova Tallada
Distance: 1km / 0.62mi x2
Ascend: Flat (~80 m / 260 ft)
Type: Linear
Duration: 30-40min x2
Difficulty: Intermediate
Color: Yellow
Despite all the obstacles, the hike to Cova Tallada is a wonderful destination to an inland rocky island paradise. Though the red route itself won’t take a lot of your time – be prepared to spend a better half of a day there. Cova Tallada is a beautiful cave system surrounded by pristine Mediterranean water, small islets, and giant cliffs. This spectacular landscape is a great place for a picnic, snorkeling, cliff diving, reading a book, or simply contemplating your thoughts. Just be sure to wear a good pair of hiking boots, take water shoes, and pick up all your trash.
Have in mind that the described Cova Tallada hiking route starts from the Denia side of Mount Montgo Natural Park. Though it is possible to hike to the cave from the Javea side, this is the easiest way to do so. If you want more information on this particular route, you can read my detailed guide of hiking from Denia to Cova Tallada.
The name of Playa de Pope comes after a Russian Orthodox priest, who used to come to bathe in this beach. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Sant Antoni Cape Hike
This short hike from the port of Javea to Cap Sant Antoni (eng. Saint Anthony Cape) is just the first steps of the longer hiking trail all the way up to Mount Montgo – PR-CV 355 Port Xàbia-Montgo. Regardless of it, the hiking route stands out on its own as a worthy walk. The climb up to the lighthouse of Cap Sant Antoni is not that challenging but rewarding in different ways. To be more precise, the hiking route has spectacular views of the beaches of Javea, Mount Montgo, Portixol Island, and Cap Prim. Possibly the most impressive part of the hike is the local vegetation, which just seems to be greener than everywhere else. All things considered, the Cap Sant Antoni hike is an easily accessible and rewarding hiking destination.
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From my own experience of hiking in Marina Alta, I would consider Port Javea – Cap Sant Antoni hiking trail to be the least demanding one. The whole route is a gradual climb up the cliff without any major obstacles ensuring maximum pleasure. Even more so, this straight-up-forward hike doesn’t have any really dangerous passages, thus it is a viable option for more experienced families. I’ve seen many people walking their dogs on this hiking route and I can’t blame them. If I was living in Javea and had a dog – I would probably do the same.
Once you get on top of Cap Sant Antoni don’t forget to visit all viewpoints to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Javea Bay and beyond while doing so. I wouldn’t recommend going off the official route as things might get ugly rather quickly. Along with Sant Antoni lighthouse, you’ll find remains of the past eras. Though I haven’t found any information on this, I’m sure Cap Sant Antoni was inhabited by humans since the deep stone age.
There is not much to say – getting on the top of Mount Montgo is the ultimate challenge in Marina Alta. The only question is how you want to do it. The route I chose is not the shortest, but still doable within a day, and the upside is that the climb from Jesus Pobre is not as steep as the alternative options. Neither route is recommended for less experienced hikers. Climbing mountains is very rewarding but the hike itself might be tough and not as interesting as the amazing alternatives in Marina Alta I mentioned before. Nevertheless, Mount Montgo will open breath-taking views to those who dare to challenge it.
During the hike, be sure to appreciate the walls of an ancient Iberian town – La Penya de l’Àguila, which dates as far as to the 5th century BC.
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Since Marina Alta is the easternmost part of mainland Spain, the main roads tend to cut this beautiful “corner”. While most of the region could be easily accessed, getting to the coastline of Marina Alta is not as simple as anywhere else in the Province of Alicante. Given that, the quality of the local roads is very good compared to the other regions due to the richness of the area.
You can reach Marina Alta by either AP-7 Autopista Mediterraneo (eng the Mediterranean Motorway), or the lesser N-332, which will get you just a bit closer to the heartland of Marina Alta. Either way, you need to look for Benissa or Teulada (CV-740) – the main gateways to the rest of the region. Both can only be accessed from N-332, thus you’ll need to enter it from AP-7 first to get any further.
Pro tip: From 2021, most of AP-7 in Marina Alta is free.
Without a doubt, Marina Alta is the most beautiful part of a really attractive Costa Blanca. The same case could be made not only for the Valencian Community but for the whole coastline of the Spanish mainland of the Mediterranean. Having that in mind, I must admit that it was not a love from first sight for me. Most of Costa Blanca is massively urbanized and almost exclusively for ex-pats and tourists. As a result, it is even hard to find that desired temperament of Spanish culture in the area. Of course, there is one upside to that – you’ll find communicating in English around these areas much easier than in most of Spain.
Having all that in mind, it took me a while to learn to see all the prettiness of the region through the crowds of tourists and ex-pat houses. What did I find? Exceptionally beautiful landscape, where mountains meet the sea. Marina Alta has everything a true nature lover desires. Traveling through Marina Alta’s inland and coastal areas made me wonder what the whole landscape looked like without all the urbanization, especially during the magic times of the Iberian Culture. These people chose Marina Alta and the surrounding landscape as their home for a reason and so do thousands of people today.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Having traveled all the Mediterranean coastline of mainland Spain (except for some parts of Catalonia), without a second of thought, I would rank Marina Alta as one of the top 3 regions in the country by the sea, only falling behind Maro-Cerro Gordo Cliffs in Costa Tropical, where some of the tallest mountains in Europe, Sierra Nevada meet the Mediterranean. As far as I’m concerned, many parts of inland Marina Alta, keep up to this high standard, making it a truly mesmerizing and exceptional part of Spain.
One might wonder, what’s so special about Marina Alta? First of all, it is rather green. Especially given the rather dry and arid neighborhood this is clearly visible after entering the area. Second, as the name suggests (eng. High Port), the terrain of Marina Alta is very mountainous. As a matter of fact, it is one end of the Baetica Mountains system, which has famous Gibraltar on the other end of it. These mountains shape Marina Alta from the dramatic cliffs on the coastline to mesmerizing small towns entangled in-between the difficult landscape of inland of the region. To put it simply, every part of Marina Alta is worth anybody’s time exploring it. So, if you find yourself spending your vacation in one of the popular coastline towns in Marine Alta like Denia, Javea, or Calpe, a day trip to the inland of the region would be a great idea to diversify your holiday time in Costa Blanca.
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This part of Marina Alta’s countryside is located in the Province of Alicante, entangled between tall mountains and peaceful valleys. The landmarks of the route are interconnected by their historical ties, which will help us to uncover the secrets of various sites from the past and their remote yet exceptionally beautiful locations and local crafts. This route includes some of my favorite parts of Marina Alta inland – there are very few places, where history, mountains, and sea are combined in such a balanced harmony.
Pego is a great example of how the success of a town in Marina Alta depends on its symbiosis with the natural environment. For such a humble town, Pego has a lot to show – you can visit the Ecce-Homo Chapel, the saint of the municipality, the Parish Church of Asuncion with the beautiful Plaza of Townhall nearby, and the Franciscan Convent – these are only the religious sites of Pego. The cultural ones include the Museum of Contemporary Art, the culture center house, and the ethnological museum, which is dedicated to the growth of rice. The most famous landmark in the town is the natural park of Marjal de Pego-Oliva. It is one of the major biodiversity areas in the Mediterranean and the location of the cultivation of rice, that so many people in Pego rely on.
The marsh of Pego-Oliva was granted a natural park status in 1994. These are vast areas of wetlands situated between the edge of the Baetic Mountains, between the Provinces of Alicante and Valencia, and the town of Pego and Oliva, respectively. Its 12 ha are covered by reedbeds, ricefields, and lagoons, all of which are interconnected by various rivers and canals, which results in the area of great natural wealth and productivity. The excellent water quality is not only suitable for endangered species, like Whiskered Tern, the Valencian tooth carp, the marbled teal, and the European pond turtle but in fact, maintains the best-preserved underwater vegetation in all of Spain.
Some say Absudia is among the most beautiful towns in the inland of Marina Alta, but it is Forna Castle that makes this area popular. The name of the town comes from Arabic word meaning “the hermitage”, it obviously shows its Moorish origins, though the oldest archeological evidence of settlement dates back to the Bronze Age, probably of Iberian origin. During the visit, be sure to dedicate some time to explore white Moorish narrow streets of Adsubia, it is the main highlight of the town itself. Some notable landmarks include Church of Saint Vincent Ferrer , a town hall and a public loundry building of Adsubia.
Meanwhile Forna almost couldn’t be more different. Its rich Christian heritage is highlighted by the Templar castle of Forna. Both the town and the castle are in surprisingly good state. In Forna you can also visit Canalobres cave and do some hiking in the nearby mountainous setting. In short, the two towns prooves the very rich variety of both landscape and culture in a very narrow area of Marina Alta.
The valley is separated into eight different urban areas: Benirrama, Beniali, Benissiva, Benitaia, la Carroja, Alpatro, Llombai, and Benissili. Together they form sort of a township on the inner-outer edge of Marina Alta and inter-connecting on an ancient road between Denia and an old capital, Xativa. The Vall de la Gallinera offers truly spectacular panoramic views to its visitors. The idyllic scenery of rural harmony with remote houses in-between cherries, olives, almonds, carrobs and orange trees, and other woods and fields of whom the area is most famous for the first two. The Vall de la Gallinera is proud to be the first area in the whole of Europe to produce cherries every year. The deep agricultural traditions are carved into the surrounding tall stone walls of mountains, forming beautiful terraces and defining the romantic picture of the Vall de la Gallinera. For a brief moment, one could be forgiven for mistaking this exceptional scenery for one of Southeast Asia.
A visit to the Vall d’Alcala will bring you backward in time. You’ll be surprised by the ingenuity of its past visitors. Vall d’Alcala is famous for its Moorish past. In the area, you’ll find two very well-preserved but old refrigerated areas, which served as refrigerators for the people of the past. Another popular tourist destination is L’Atzuvieta – probably the best conserved Moorish village in the Valencian Community. Despite these interesting historical relics, Al-Azraq is the most famous thing to come out of the Vall d’Alcala. The legendary Arab leader was born in the municipality of Alcala de la Jovada, which he loved and fought for against Jaime I. Al-Azraq died in the battle of Alcoy in April 1276, giving birth to one of the most famous festivities in this part of Spain – Moros and Cristianos (Moors and Christians). To this day, it is celebrated in most of the towns in Marina Alta.
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Vall d’Ebo
It is a location of exceptional natural beauty, defined by its picturesque sites like natural pools, potholes and the Barranc del Infern. Above all of them, undoubtedly, the most interesting landmark is Cova del Rull, where you can embrace the beauty of various stalagmite and stalactite formations. There is also Ethnological Museum situated in the area.
Unfortunately, the natural beauty of Vall d’Ebo is still in recovery after the devastating wildfires of 2022. About 12,150 hectares of vegetation were destroyed in a perimeter of 100 km / 62 mi. The number of these wildfires is increasing every year due to increasing days of drought.
Route 2: El Verger – Ondara – Beniarbeig – La Rectoria
Distance: 12 km / 7.45 mi
The connection between these towns and the raison d’etre of this route is Sierra de Segaria – a beautiful mountain range covering 94 000 sq. m with its tallest peak reaching 504 m / 1 653.54 ft. It might sound not that much, but given that the mountain is located 6 km / 3.73 mi from the sea, Sierra de Segaria is one of the most notable landmarks on the coastline of Marina Alta. The mountain separates two beautiful valleys: the Valle de Gallinera and the valley of River Girona.
The evidence and traces found of a major Iberian settlement in this area with the largest portion of the ruins belonging to the municipality of Benimeli. In fact, most of the archaeological remains were found on the hillside close to this town. I expect that the sea level was much closer to Sierra de Segaria 2 500 years ago when the Iberian culture flourished.
El Verger
Being another town on the list of Muslim origins, El Verger remained so even after the Christian conquest. Only after the expulsion of Moriscos, the town had to be repopulated by Christians from Denia, Pego, and Balearic islands. Until modern times, the economy of El Verger was always agriculture. Given its humble history, the town still has something to offer. The points of interest worth attention are the Tower of Duke Medinaceli’s Palace, the Parish Church from 1732, and the Moorish Cremadella Tower dating as far back as the XIII-XIV centuries. While it is situated right next to Sierra Segaria, the most interesting natural feature of El Verger is the all-year-flowing river Girona.
Given the history of the town, it is probably not surprising that the biggest festivity in El Verger is Moros and Cristianos. Other include celebrations in honor of San Roque, San Isidro, and Virgen del Rosario. All are held in August.
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Ondara
Except for Sierra de Segaria, the entire territory of Ondara is practically flat. The foot of this mountain is where we find the earliest footprints of human inhabitants, the Iberians, but it was Muslims who left the biggest fingerprints in Ondara, most notably the irrigation system. After they were expelled in 1609, the area was settled by the Christian people from the Balearic Islands. In the XIX century, Ondara saw growth and restructuration to become a town with a wide variety of services that we know today.
During your trip, be sure to visit the clock tower, locally known as “Torre del Reloj”. It is part of an old Moorish Castle, which had four such towers but only this one remained to see the modern times. The other points of interest are the XVII century Nunnery, the Parish Church from the XVI century, and the in-famous bullring, the only one in the region.
The food traditions in Ondara are very typical for the region combined with the Mediterranean diet and a wide variety of tapas. In July, the town celebrates two important local festivals: one in honor of Virgen de la Soledad (Eng “Loneliness”) and the popular Saint Jaume. Another important festivity in town takes place in November, Ondara Trade Fair, which dates back to 1690.
Beniarbeig
A town of Moorish origins, its more archaic Arabic name was Beniherbey. Today, it is almost just history. After the expulsion of the Moors and later Moriscos, Beniarberg, like most of the settlements in the Valencian Community, fell into a population crisis. Unfortunately, it took much more time for the town to recover than the others. It was repopulated by the Christians only in the 1950s by the people from Andalucia and La Mancha, who were looking for an opportunity. Situated at the foothill of Sierra de Segaria, Beniarberg is surrounded by cultivated orange, almonds, and olive trees. Its urbanization is situated around the main street of Calle Mayor. The parish church of Beniarberg dates back to the XVII century but the most distinctive feature of the town is the all-year constant flow of water in the river Girona. It provides good conditions not only for human settlers but for various species of waterfowl.
La Rectoria
This area of Marina Alta is composed of 5 towns: Sanet y Negrals, Benimeli, El Rafol de Almunia, Sagra, and Tornos. All these peaceful villages share a few things in common: Arab farmsteads’ origins, landscape, and fertile lands. The name “La Rectoria” comes from a religious division that formed after the dismemberment of the rectory of Denia, putting many people of religious service in urgent need of housing. Today, the villages that too in those people form a community.
Situated between two natural marvels of Marina Alta, Sierra de Segaria, and the ever-flowing River Girona, La Rectoria enjoys very fertile land and irrigation systems from the past, making this region perfect for agriculture. One will find many vegetables, and fruits with a specialization in citrus.
Widely associated with various trades and crafts, Gata de Gorgos is a perfect place if you are in need of furniture, decoration, basketry, or traditional food for a very good quality/price ratio. In fact, it is one of the places, known in Spain as “a town of artisans”. These are no mere words, since immemorial times in Gata de Gorgos people have used palms for the craftmanship of baskets and hats. Later, it developed into other industries – at first to various furniture, and later to pottery, ceramics, and glass – creating a local crafts powerhouse.
In the urban center of Gata de Gorgos be sure to visit the XVII century Parish Church of San Miguel and wander through irregular shape streets in the suburb of the Islamic tradition cornered against the Gorgos River. The town houses two permanent sculpture parks as well.
In terms of food, the traditional cocas are the biggest highlight in Gata de Gorgos accompanied by a great variety of rice, stews, and casseroles.
With 7 600 inhabitants, Pedreguer is the most populous town on the list of this route. Big numbers are the most of what this town can be proud of but are not limited to. Pedreguer was first mentioned in 1249, a decade after Christians conquered the region of the territory of the current-day Valencian Community in 1238. Back then, the population of Pedreguer was mainly Islamic, therefore after the expulsion of the Moors in 1609, the town was left almost empty. It was repopulated by the people from the Balearic Islands and to this day the locals could notice particular peculiarities in their speech.
Pedreguer has a wide variety of industries including leather goods, hats, metal manufacturing for a small scale and farming. The best place to buy their craft could be the second-hand market Rastro, which is held every Sunday in the industrial area of Les Galgues.
Hikers should consider the 18 km / 11.18 mi stretch of PR-V53, a circular trail with different levels of difficulty.
Benidoleig
Benidoleig traces its origins to the times of the Moorish people. It was founded originally as one of the Arab farmhouses, installed in the valley of Girona. Benidoleig shares the fate of the region and the town experienced a downfall after the local Moriscos were expelled in 1609. Fortunately, it didn’t take long for the town to bounce back, Benidoleig was repopulated in 1611 by the people from Mallorca. Despite the population change, the design of the town didn’t change much. Its main economy remained agriculture, specializing in dry farming like raisins and citruses.
While in Benidoleig, don’t forget to visit the manor of Finestrat’s Baron, the Parish Church of Sangre de Cristo, and the main attraction in the whole area – Cueva de las Calaveras – 300 m / 984 ft in length and 20 m / 65.61 ft in a height cave system with beautiful domes filled with stalactites and stalagmites.
Orba is another old old town, whose first settlers date back to prehistory and for a good reason. It is situated in a fertile valley protected by mountains – a perfect storm for ancient people. Even the name of the town comes from the Iberian word “Ur-Obia” meaning “where water flows from the bottom of the mountain”, (Having in mind that the Iberian language is yet to be fully translated, I found it very fascinating). Despite Orba’s ancient roots, it was the Moorish conquerors, who based on their agricultural needs, shaped the landscape of the valley into what we know today.
For such a small town, there are quite a few things to do here. Be sure not to miss the parish church and the 16th-century manor house. Foodies shouldn’t miss the local sausages, bakery products, oranges, lemons, almonds, and oils. Orba is also great for souvenirs with its exquisite and authentic pottery and ceramics traditions dating from the Moorish times. The area is also great for hiking and cycling.
This part of Marina Alta consists of four settlements combining a single township, known as La Vall de Laguar. These villages are Benimaurell, Fleix, Campell and Fontilles. Situated deep in Marina Alta, the elevation of these settlements varies from 300 m / 984 ft to 437 m / 1435 ft above sea level. The remote geographical feature of La Vall de Leguar was a natural last stronghold of Valencian Moors after the expulsion in 1609.
Like almost anywhere else in Marina Alta, this area is great for hiking. Places like Barranc de L’Infern, traversed by Girona river, La Sierra del Penyo, or routes trespassing wells and natural springs like the Font del Reinos, Font dels Olbis, Font del Penyo, together with the fountains situated in each settlement.
Traditionally, agriculture was the main economy of the area, but today, it is domestic tourism that has become the main income for the locals. Some rainfed crops still remain, like olives, almonds, and cherry trees.
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Route 4: Vall de Pop
Distance: 25 km / 15.53 mi
The Vall de Pop is animated and fed by Gorgos River, also known as River Xalo, which flows from the mountains around Castell de Castells. The river runs through the towns of Benigembla, Murla, Parcent, and Alcalali, where the valley finally expands and we find Xalo, Lliber, Senija, and Benissa, next to the coastline. The Vall de Pop is an area of great variety: majestic mountains, winding ravines, picturesque grape fields, and coast with cozy coves and dramatic white cliffs.
The Vall de Pop is perfect for active tourism and recreational activities. It has a wide network of hiking trails, which is, undoubtedly, the best way to get the most out of the valley. Sierras de Bernia y Ferrer, la Serella y Xarta, and Gorgos River are the best locations for appreciating the local flora and fauna. Other popular activities include cycling, climbing, paragliding, and kayaking among many others. The Vall de Pop is one of those places, which has something to offer to everybody.
Cultural legacy in the valley goes as deep as it gets – straight to the dawn of humanity in Europe. Cave paintings in the sanctuary Del Pla de Petracos are a part of UNESCO World Heritage site of Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin on the Iberian Peninsula. Also, one can enjoy the rich heritage of Moors like castles and narrow cozy streets that rise and fall below and above dry stone buildings found virtually in every town of the Vall de Pop.
Situated deep in the Vall de Pop, right where the raison d’etre of the whole valley, River Gorgos originates, Castell de Castells feels to be separated from the rest of the world. While it is not the only place in the inland part of Marina Alta that has this feeling, this little cozy town at a privileged location clearly stands out.
The central piece of the town is the Parish Church of Saint Anna. Another important trace of the development of the human race as intelligent species is a set of cave paintings, known as Pla de Petracos and dating back about 8,000 years. Other popular tourist destinations around Castell de Castells, and good opportunities for hiking, are Moorish Castle Penya Castellet, Mount Malla de Llop (1,361 m / 4,365 ft), and Els Arcs, a naturally formed arcs, known as one of the biggest in the whole of Europe of its kind.
Interesting festivals include the lively San Vicente Ferrer, a cultural week starting July 22nd, featuring poetic evenings and traditional dance for all ages. On July 26th, people of the town honor Santa Ana, Castell de Castells’ patron saint, with a magical candlelit procession. But probably the most interesting festivity happens in early September, the enchanting Pla de Petracos fiesta unfolds under twinkling trees, offering music, food, and dancing all night long. The weekend culminates with an open-air paella feast as families come together to celebrate.
Known as the gateway to mountains, Parcent might be the best town for hiking in the whole of Marina Alta. All thanks to its perfect location, where Vall de Pop opens up from a narrow valley between mountains to wide relative lowlands. Nevertheless, probably the most interesting feature of the town is hidden in its name. Unlike most of the towns in Marina Alta, Parcent seems to have Latin origins (Persius or Percennius). It also took an important role in the Moorish rebellions as a Christian stronghold.
Interesting historical monuments include the 16th-century Parish Church of the Immaculate Conception. the house of Gabriel Miro, Cave Paintings of l’Abric del Seguili, the Moorish necropolis in Calle l’Era and a farmhouse from the same period. Popular hikes include Coll de Rates, Font de la Foia, Cim Carrascal, and Cova dels Coloms.
Alcalali
After the reconquest, King James I of Aragon donated Alcalali to Doña Berenguela Alonso de Molina in 1268, but the overseers of the town kept changing. It might have resulted in a rather humble town, but that’s why we love it today. The narrow white streets of Moorish design, The Church of the Nativity of Our Lady, the town hall, and the medieval tower of Alcalali, La Solana Castle – there are plenty of historical buildings to see in Acalali. Today, the town of Alcalali accounts only for one-fourth of the population of the township but the surrounding urbanizations and Llosa de Camacho inflates the numbers. The latter town had been absorbed by Alcalali in the 19th century.
During the spring, Alcalali is known as starting point of the hike through the majestic blooming almonds down the valley towards to Benissa. But that is not the only hike, accessed straight from the town. Situated by the foot of the mountain on the edge of the Vall de Pop, Acalali is perfect for the great outdoors.
The main festivals of the town are held on the 24th and 25th of June in honor of Saint Juan Bautista de Mosquera and the Holy Christ of Health, respectively.
The cradle of Muscat. It is no mere feat knowing that Muscat of Alexandria is considered to be the oldest genetically unchanged grape variety in the world. It was, probably, brought to Spain by Romans or even Carthaginians. Despite having many other cultures in a relatively big and fertile valley, wine very much defines not only the image of Xalo but of the whole Vall de Pop.
Every day, in traditional shops one can find local products like almonds, raisin grapes, honey, oranges, and oil, but Xalo is probably known most for its bodegas with a wide range of local DO wines and traditional liquor made of grapes, known as mistela. Other popular ‘souvenir’ foods from Xalo include various dry sausages and exquisite sweets. The best day to come to town for shopping is undoubtedly Saturday when people from across Marina Alta and beyond gather in Xalo for traditional market day.
Thanks to the fertile lands of Vall de Pop, one can enjoy a rich and diverse cuisine including some better-known various rice dishes, cocas, cous cous and local “espencat”, “minxos”, “la borreta de melva, “the putxero amb pilotes” and “mullador amb bull”.
Benissa
Last but not least, rather the opposite of that. Benissa is not only the most populous town in Marina Alta featured in this article but the fifth most populous in the region taking the coastal settlements as well. This accounts for about 11 thousand inhabitants, which is small but not by Marina Alta standards. Benissa is also one of the oldest towns in the region. Though, the name is of Moorish origins (Beni-Eyce, eng “Sons of Christ), the archeological finds suggest, at least, Roman trespassing in the area around the town.
Benissa houses a large Gothic Church, better known as “Catedral de la Marina”. Hopefully, that doesn’t need a translation or any further explanation. The town is also home to the Franciscan seminary and its old convent from 1645. Other historical points of interest include the square of Old Church, La Lonja, the Town Hall, Riverside figure, and many others.
Benissa enjoys its geographical location between the Mediterranean Sea and mountains. It is well reflected in its culture and kitchen. One of the signature dishes is Octopus stew, known as “Pulpo y mass”, while the town is also known for its sausages and cocas.
The main festivities include the icon “Moors and Christians”, which in Benissa is held on the weekend closest to June 29. Other, “more Christian” celebrations include the patron saint festivity dedicated to Immaculate Xiqueta on the last Sunday of April, and a fair in honor of Saint Anthony in January among others.
Most Popular Activities in Marina Alta
Dénia: Sunset Catamaran Cruise
Join us in Puerto Dénia for an unforgettable sunset catamaran cruise filled with music and cava!
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Nestled in the province of Castellon in the region of Valencia lies one of the truly charming villages of Spain – Morella. Known as one of the top 100 most beautiful villages in the country and one of the most beautiful towns in Castellon and the whole of Valencia, Morella is a hidden gem to outsiders’ eyes waiting to be discovered.
Its location, perched high on a rocky hill, has given Morella strategic importance throughout its long existence. This is evident once you see the impressive castle of the town, a dominant feature of Morella, which has played a crucial role in protecting the town’s inhabitants and its cultural heritage. Another striking feature of Morella is its location on a high plateau. One might not notice at first but except for agriculture and roads, there are no signs of any human activities or settlements around the town. This becomes very obvious from Morella’s walls and towers during the night. It is pitch black.
The town is not just a beautiful and historic town, however. It is also a place of warmth and hospitality, where visitors are welcomed with open arms. Morella’s streets are lined with whitewashed buildings adorned with balconies, and its plazas are lively gathering places for locals and visitors alike. There is always something happening in the town, from traditional fiestas and cultural events to weekly markets and fairs. With this article I hope to unveil this unknown tourist destination to foreign visitors to Spain, highlighting Morella’s rich history, culture, local foods, and most interesting landmarks.
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History of Morella
Morella’s history is as rich and varied as the layers of stone in its castle walls. Unfortunately, this came not from goodwill but from necessity. The town’s origins can be traced as far back as the Bronze Age when the Iberian peoples inhabited the area. Later, the Greeks and then the Romans established a settlement here, which was known as Morviedro. The Visigoths conquered the town in the 5th century, followed by the Moors in the 8th century. Its complicated history is hard to uncover but one thing is for sure – everyone saw it as one of the crown jewels in their list of trophies.
“Morella is not a place for any man in the world, but for a king, because it was worth as much as a county with its possessions.” – King Jaime I
During the Middle Ages, Morella became an important frontier town, situated between the Christian and Muslim kingdoms. The town was heavily fortified, and its castle played a crucial role in protecting the town’s inhabitants from attacks. In the 13th century, the troops under King James I of Aragon conquered Morella and incorporated it into his kingdom. During the following centuries, it prospered as a center of agriculture and trade. It was also an important political center, falling in influence only after Valencia and Xativa. Morella’s Gothic church of Santa Maria was built during this time, as were many of the town’s other important buildings.
You don’t have to be a genius to notice that Morella’s rich history is reflected in its many historical landmarks and cultural events. Visitors can explore the town’s castle, churches, and other important buildings, and learn about the town’s fascinating past. Morella’s historical legacy is a testament to the town’s enduring spirit and its determination to preserve its cultural heritage for future generations.
Morella is also known for hosting one of the most important festivals in the Valencian Community and one of the oldest festivals in Spain – Sexenio. It is expected to attract between 100,000-200,000 visitors within a span of 10 days in 2024. It so happens, that the festival happens only every 6 years and if you miss one, you might not get a chance for a second time. Due to its importance, the whole town got a cyclical rhythm of 6 years awaiting and preparing for the celebration of Sexenio. As a matter of fact, translated from Spanish “Sexenio” means “six-year term”, so its frequency shouldn’t surprise Spanish speakers. Originally it was celebrated on the third Sunday of August but the festival has expanded over the years. The next Sexenio de Morella is going to happen in 2024, August 17-26.
It all began on February 14, 1673, when by the popular request of the people, the council of Morella declared that every six years the town will hold a celebration in honor of the Virgin of Vallivana out of gratitude for what she’ve done for Morella and its inhabitants. 1672 was a terrible year for the town. A terrible plague was ravaging Morella. Many died, and many more would have if it was not for the Virgin. When she arrived to the town, the Virgin of Vallivana was carefully assisted throughout the sick streets of Morella, and wherever she went, people got cured. For modern people, this must sound like a miracle but I believe that back then Morellans had no doubt of the powers of the Virgin. Therefore, Sexenio every six years is a thanksgiving to the savior of the town and its people.
During the festival, the town is transformed with colorful decorations over every balcony and window within its limits. It is accompanied by constant traditional dancing and lively music. One of the main highlights of the festival is the procession of the “giants and big-heads”, which consists of giant puppets and people wearing oversized masks and costumes. In addition to the festive celebrations, the Sexenio de Morella also includes traditional religious ceremonies and cultural events. That is the raison d’etre of the festival after all. Sexenio is an important part of the town’s cultural heritage and is a time for the people of Morella to come together and celebrate their history and traditions. Visiting Morella during the Sexenio festival might be a good time to learn more about the unique character of this lovely yet mysterious town.
Besides its medieval and eerie streets of the Old Town, Morella has some historical landmarks to visit that stand out from the rest and at the same time fill in the whole picture just perfectly. Its history and geographical location shape its image. Being a strategically important fortress and town, Morella’s fortifications clearly stand out, but at the same time its location in, sometimes, a very harsh northeastern part of the Iberian mountain system, put the inhabitants of the town at the mercy of some higher powers. Churches are plentiful.
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The most iconic historical landmark and attraction in Morella is, of course, the castle that sits atop a hill overlooking the town and offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside of Els Ports. The history of this castle is basically the history of Morella itself.
The current castle dates back to the 13th century and has served as a military stronghold, a royal residence, and a prison. Today, visitors to Morella can explore the castle’s walls, towers, and courtyards, and take in the stunning views of the surrounding countryside. The castle’s museum houses an impressive collection of archaeological finds, medieval weaponry, and historical artifacts that provide a fascinating glimpse into Morella’s past.
Based on historian Marqués de Lozoya opinion, Santa Maria minor basilica is the most beautiful gothic church in the region of Valencia. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Basilica de Santa Maria la Mayor
This Gothic-style church is located in the heart of Morella’s historic center and dates back to the 14th century. The church features impressive stained-glass windows, intricate stonework, and a large bell tower that can be climbed for views of the town. In 1958 it was granted a status of a minor basilica. Some say it is the most beautiful gothic church in the region of Valencia.
Besides Morella castle and its walls, the Portal de Sant Miquel is the most distinctive historical landmark of the town. Constructed in the 14th century with an imposing stone arch and intricate carvings, it leads straight into the old town of Morella. The portal was originally part of the town’s defensive walls and served as an important entrance for travelers and traders. Most of the visitors will enter Morella through this portal straight into the narrow streets of the old town, where they can explore the many shops, restaurants, and historic buildings that make Morella such a popular destination.
This 14th-century Gothic-style old convent of Franciscan monks today is home to a museum that showcases the history and culture of Morella and its surrounding region. The museum includes exhibits on local crafts, traditional dress, and religious art. At the moment, it is closed down for renovation works but still, I found it one of the more interesting landmarks in the town.
Besides being an interesting historical landmark, the aqueduct offers great vistas. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Aqueduct of Santa Lucia
At first sight, the structure might remind of a Roman-style aqueduct but actually, it dates back to the times millennia later, in the 14th century. In some sense, it somewhat makes it a more interesting historical landmark as Romans probably were better builders than Christians from this era. The Aqueduct of Santa Lucia consists of a series of arches and pillars, and is definitely an impressive feat of engineering that has stood the test of time. Like all aqueducts, it was built to supply water to the town from nearby springs. Visitors can hike along a path that follows the aqueduct to trace its origins, the route offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside and a unique perspective on this historic structure.
The main streets of Morella are filled with stores selling local crafts and products. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Local Products & Gastronomy
Besides its stunning appearance, Morella is known for its delicious local products and gastronomy, which reflect the region’s agricultural and culinary traditions. Terroir plays very well into the delicious products and traditional dishes of the town. You can predict what you’ll find on the menu of any given restaurant or tapas bar in Morella from the landscape’s panorama from the tall town’s walls. Morella is famous for its almonds, milk products, meats, dry meats, sausages, truffles, honey, and other foods, generally, listed as ‘land kitchen’. which can be found in local markets and shops. Visitors of Morella can sample these staple foods or the town’s traditional dishes almost anywhere in town, among the most popular are flaons. One can’t leave Morella without trying these gems. They could be acquired almost anywhere in town, most notably in one of the numerous bakeries. Real yummy.
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Morella is a charming and authentic destination that offers visitors a taste of traditional Spain. With its rich history and culture, delicious local products and gastronomy, and stunning natural scenery, Morella is a hidden gem worth exploring. As a golden rule, the status of one of the most beautiful towns in Spain guarantees an exceptional experience and breathtaking dramatic sceneries. Nevertheless, despite being located less than an hour from the ever-busy Mediterranean coast of the region of Valencia, Morella gained the reputation it deserves only among the local tourists from Aragon, Valencia, and beyond.
I especially enjoyed the calm setting of the inland Castellon in early spring, when Almonds were blooming. Morella is surrounded by hundreds of these iconic and typical Spain trees.
Whether you are a history buff, a foodie, or an outdoor enthusiast, Morella has something to offer for everyone. So pack your bags and head to Morella for an unforgettable Spanish adventure.
All content and photos by Alis Monte, unless stated differently. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Sevilla is a fabulous city in the southern region of Andalucia in Spain. This exceptionally beautiful city has a very rich culture and history, its layers could be discovered in-between the streets of different cosy districts. The most notable period of Seville is the one that the city is the most famous, or infamous, for. The Andalucian Capital flourished in 16-18th, thanks to the discovery of the New World by Christopher Columbus in 1492.
Today, the town is a major tourist destination, andhome to many historic buildings and monuments. Due to its involvement with the Americas, Seville is noticeably much more popular with tourists from across the Atlantic. A visit to the old city is a must, especially the Plaza de Espana and the Alcazar Palace. The nightlife here is fantastic and the food is delicious. Plan to stay here for at least a few days, you’ll enjoy your time here.
Despite all the historic landmarks, it is the charm of its streets that makes Seville. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Seville History
The first settlers in what is now Seville were the Celts, who founded the city of Hispalis (modern-day Seville) in the 3rd century BCE. The Romans conquered the city in the 2nd century BCE and renamed it Hispalis. The city flourished under Roman rule and was made the capital of the province of Baetica. It was an important commercial centre and a base for the Roman navy. In the 5th century CE, the city was conquered by the Visigoths and renamed Spal. The city was sacked by the Vandals in the 6th century and was conquered by the Arabs in the 8th century. They renamed the city Ishbiliya and made it the capital of Al-Andalus. Seville flourished under Arab rule and became a major cultural and intellectual centre.
The Christians reconquered the city in 1248, turning Seville into a key part of the Crown of Castile. As a result, the city’s economy flourished. In the 14th century, Seville experienced a brief Golden Age, with the construction of several important landmarks, such as the Gothic Cathedral and the current form of the Alcázar Palace.
In 1481, a major outbreak of plague killed thousands of people, but the discovery of the New World in 1492 was the precursor to another prosperous period for the city. In 1503 Seville was chosen as the home for Casa de Contratación, which was the official Spanish trading house responsible for the regulation of colonial trade and emigration from Spain to the Americas. Being the only option to reach or trade with the Americas, resulted in merchants pouring to Seville from all across Europe.
In the 17th century, the city declined in importance as Madrid eclipsed it as the new capital of Spain. However, Seville remained an important cultural center, and it was home to a number of notable writers, artists, and musicians.
Torre del Oro is one of the most visited landmarks in Seville, it was built by the Almohad dynasty in order to control access to Seville via the Guadalquivir river. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The decline of Seville continued in the 18th century as the result of silting of the Guadalquivir River, which made navigating the river much more difficult. Most of the trade had to be moved to the nearby port by the Atlantic Ocean – Cadiz. Despite that, surprisingly, the Port of Sevilla is still operational and is located, on the left bank of the Guadalquivir River in the city. The port is Andalusia’s largest river port, as well as Spain’s fourth-largest inland port. It handles approximately 10 million tonnes of cargo per year.
Map of Seville
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Guadalquivir River is one of those natural bodies that has shaped the existence and the development of the Civilizations throughout their existence in the area. It is the longest river in Andalucia and the fifth-longest in the Iberian Peninsula, flowing out from the Sierra Morena mountains in Andalusia. Guadalquivir River passes through the cities of Córdoba and Seville before finally reaching the Atlantic Ocean at the Gulf of Cádiz.
Seville was founded on the banks of Guadalquivir River, and for centuries it was the only way to reach the city from the sea. There is no better way to explore and understand the origins of Seville than a boat tour on the Guadalquivir. During the tour, it is possible to visit some of the most important monuments of Seville, such as the Torre del Oro, the Cathedral, the Giralda, the Reales Atarazanas, and the Plaza de España and the Isla Mágica theme park.
The Alcázar of Seville is a royal palace in Seville but it was built as a fortress in the 11th century, on the site of the former palace of the Moorish ruler Abbad II. The palace was extended and remodelled in the 14th century by Pedro I of Castile, and it was further altered in the 15th century by his son, Henry IV. The palace was used as a royal residence until the early 19th century, when it was converted into a military barracks. It is the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe. The Alcázar was reopened to the public in 1931, and it is now one of the most popular tourist attractions in Seville.
I haven’t seen the Royal Alcázar of Seville without long queue lines for tickets. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Alcázar is built in the Moorish style, with a mix of Christian and Islamic influences. The exterior of the palace is decorated with intricate patterns of tiles, known as azulejos. The interior of the palace is sumptuously decorated with tapestries, paintings, and carved woodwork. The palace has a number of gardens, including the famous Courtyard of the Lions, which is home to a number of marble lions. The Alcázar of Seville is one of the most beautiful examples of mudéjar architecture, and it is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
The vast area around the largest cathedral in the world, made me feel like in Vienna. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Seville Cathedral & La Giralda
The Seville Cathedral (Spanish: Catedral de Santa María de la Sede de Sevilla) is the largest Gothic cathedral and the third-largest church in the world. It is also the largest cathedral in the world, as well as the largest church in the world that is not a basilica. It is the seat of the Archbishop of Seville. The cathedral is also known as the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See.
The exterior of the cathedral is characterized by its large size and its lavish decoration. The western facade is dominated by a huge carved relief of the Last Judgment. The interior of the cathedral is equally impressive, with a vast nave that is supported by numerous pillars. The nave is decorated with a number of frescoes, and the altar area is home to a number of sculptures, including a statue of the Virgin Mary. The southern side of the cathedral features a large rose window, while a massive tower dominates the north side. The tower is better known as Giralda and together with the Seville Cathedral, it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Spain, and is one of the most visited buildings in the world.
The Giralda is the bell tower of the Cathedral of Seville. It was registered in 1987 as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO along with the Alcazar and the General Archive of the Indies. The Giralda is the fitting symbol of the city of Seville, as it is its most recognizable monument. It is the former minaret of the Great Mosque of Seville which was converted into a bell tower after the city’s reconquest by the Christians in 1248. The Giralda was originally built in 1184 in Almohad architectural style. The tower is one of the most important examples of Moorish architecture in Spain. At the time of its construction, it was the tallest minaret in the world with a height of 97.5 m / 320 ft.
The Giralda has a square base with four arches on each side. These arches are decorated with intricate carvings and inscriptions. The Giralda has 35 bells and the tower has three levels: The first level has a series of arches which lead to the second level; The second level has a series of balconies which provide views of the city; The third level has the bells. Visitors can climb to the top of the Giralda for a fee, which is also included in the combi-ticket to the Cathedral of Seville.
Parque de María Luisa is a public park that lies at the heart of Seville, together with a number of important landmarks, including the Royal Palace, the Cathedral of Seville, and the Alcazar. The area was declared Bien de Interés Cultural in 1993. The park was established in 1893 with the new and modern additions to the park were constructed for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition which was held in Seville. That includes the famous Plaza de España, which took almost 15 years to be completed (1914 and 1928). It is a landmark example of the mix of Moorish, Baroque and Renaissance Revival styles in Spanish architecture.
The Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions is a relatively unpopular architectural masterpiece in the corner of Parque de María Luisa. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Plaza de España
The Plaza de España complex is a huge half-circle with buildings continually running around the edge accessible over the moat by numerous bridges representing the four ancient kingdoms of Spain. Inside the plaza, there is a vast park with numerous fountains, gardens, and a monumental fountain at its center. The Plaza de España was featured prominently in the film Lawrence of Arabia, and more recently in Star Wars: Episode II.
Today, Plaza de España is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Seville and is one of the most photographed spots in the city. The plaza is located in the heart of the city and is home to a number of important landmarks, including the Royal Palace, the Cathedral of Seville, and the Alcazar. The plaza is also a popular spot for locals and visitors alike to enjoy the city’s many festivals and events.
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Triana
The origins of the district of Triana in Seville date back to the Moorish period of the city’s history. The name Triana is derived from the Arabic word for “three”, and refers to the three main quarters of the district: Santa Cruz, San Marcos and San Lorenzo. The district was home to a large community of Moors, who were forcibly converted to Christianity following the city’s capture by the Christians in 1248.
During the centuries that followed, Triana became an important centre for trade and commerce, as well as a hub for flamenco and bullfighting. The district is also famous for its ceramics, which have been produced here since the 16th century.
In the 20th century, Triana was the scene of some of the most violent clashes between the police and anti-government protesters during the Spanish Civil War. The district was also home to a large number of Republican refugees during the Franco regime.
Today, Triana is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Seville, thanks to its vibrant atmosphere and its many historical and cultural attractions.
Setas de Sevilla reminds of mushrooms and it is exactly how the name of it translates – mushrooms of Seville. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Personal Experience
There is no correct answer to the list of must-visit cultural and architectural landmarks in Seville. One thing I’m sure of is despite what you choose to do during your stay in the city, Seville will surprise you with its richness that could only be found in the Capital of Empires. In no other city in Spain, you’ll feel such a powerful nostalgic aura reminiscent of the greatest times for the country, during the conquest of the New World. These, of course, were catastrophic events for the local peoples of the Americas, but here in the Old Continent, Seville was among those who profited the most. Those events were tragic, but remember that all the centers of Empires are built at the expense of other peoples.
Today, it is important to remember the history of Seville while embracing its magnificence and rich cultural impact. It has seen many Empires rise and fall but the city surpassed them all. Seville is a must-visit for every enthusiast of history or culture.
The Gibraltar of Valencia, the most underrated town in Spain, the city in the sea, as interesting as it is, Peniscola gets many different names for many different reasons. It is not unjustified, the town has a very interesting history. Throughout the ages, many different factions found Peniscola as their home: Iberians, Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Knights Templar, and, finally, the famous Antipope Benedict XIII, locally known as Papa Luna, found refuge until his death in 1423. Peniscola castle was a suitable fortress for the declining religious leader, who out-of-fear of being attacked, reinforced this stronghold even further. The original constructions of the keep are attributed to the Templars, but they built it on the top of a Moorish Castle, which was probably built on an even older fortress.
As a result, it is hard to tell which came first: Peniscola or Gibraltar, thus the name “The Gibraltar of Valencia” might be unfair. The name is rather due to the wide knowledge of Gibraltar. It feels like every fortification on a huge rock by the sea is called “the Gibraltar of something” these days. Meanwhile, Peniscola is relatively unknown to mainstream international tourism. Despite that, the town has a lot of visitors. It is nowhere close to being underrated, rather marks a blind spot of the English-speaking community. One way or another, Peniscola has a lot to show off, and knowingly or unknowingly, most of its visitors will be pleasantly surprised by the city in the sea. There is so much hidden underneath the bricks of Peniscola Castle that it might be a wise idea to hire a local guide to get the most of it.
Though the shape of the fortress is still intact, one can only truly visit Peniscola Castle using imagination. Only the rocks remain of what once a great castle with beautiful gardens and frescoes. Most of the fortress was restored and even some walls were added for the shooting of Anthony Mann’s movie “El Cid”. Today, Peniscola Castle is a popular tourist destination and righteously so. All thanks to an exceptionally rich history and the continuous appearances in the popular culture, including the iconic George R. R. Martin’s “Game of Thrones”.
The artillery park and the modern gardens of castle join the medieval walls with renaissance ones. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
3D map of Peniscola historical city.During his residence, Papa Luna transformed the typical medieval Templar courtyard into papal gardens. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
How to get to Peniscola?
Peniscola is located in the northern part of the Valencian Community – Province of Castellon, just below Ebro delta in Catalonia. The famous Spanish Mediterranean motorway AP-7 is situated right next to the town.
Car is the recommended way of getting around in these parts of Spain. Check the map for the available parking locations.
During the peak times, the closest parking to Peniscola Castle is almost always full. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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By train
There are local and inter-regional trains, connecting the Valencian Community with Barcelona and Cartagena, running by Peniscola. Unfortunately, the closest train station is located in the neighboring town, Benicarlo.
By bus
There is an intercity public bus running between Peniscola – Benicarlo – Vinaros. You can find the timetables here.
By car
Despite the direction you are coming from, Peniscola could be either approached by AP-7 motorway or N-340. Roads CV-141 and CV-140 connect the town to the motorways.
Peniscola is a little authentic oasis in the very touristic Mediterranean coast of Spain. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
History of Peniscola
There are so many historic layers to Peniscola that often much of it is left out in mainstream tourism. Among examples of stories, which would be advertised almost anywhere else in Spain is the legend of Hannibal swearing an oath to his father, Hamilcar Barca, to never be friends with Romans; Nor nobody talks about the mythical Greeks, to whom the name origins of Peniscola is accredited to – Chersonesos – the Greek word for peninsula; For more than 500 years, Moors also had a castle here and referred to it as Baniskula. Those times must have had some great stories as well; And finally, almost anybody ever talks about the first settlers of the area – the iconic Iberian. During their reign, I imagine it was more of a natural wonder coupled with their shrines to appreciate the beauty of the whole magical setting.
Whichever period you choose, it always appears that Peniscola captured the attention of people, there is no reason to assume that it wouldn’t capture yours. If you want to learn even more about the history of Peniscola, consider hiring a local guide for your tour to the castle and artillery park.
The building known as the ‘Polvorin’ belonged to the Castle during the period of Knights Templar and was used as Templar tank. Now it is fully covered by seashells. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Templar Order in Peniscola
During an exchange of holdings in Tortosa, in 1294 Peniscola was peacefully transferred from the Kingdom of Aragon to Templars Order to help protect the area from Muslims and pirates.
The mighty Romanesque fortress of Peniscola was built between 1294 and 1307 by the Knights Templar, the same year they were evicted and arrested by James II of Aragon under the orders of Avignon Pope Clement V. The timing was such that the Order probably felt what was coming and built the castle in Peniscola as their final refuge. The fortress remained the main command center of the Knights Templar Order until 1312 when the same Pope disbanded the order under the pressure of King Phillip IV of France.
The romanesque room was used by all of its masters for receptions, hearings and solemn acts. Its ceiling is still reminiscent of its past with Templar symbols and iron rings, which used to hold lamps. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
After the Templar Order got dissolved, King James II of Aragon persuaded Pope John XXII to let him reorganize the properties of the former order in Aragon and Valencia as a frontier of defenses of the Christian domain against Moors and pirates in the Iberian Peninsula. Although the main base moved to Montesa Castle, Peniscola remained under the banner of the newly formed Order of Montesa.
Anitopope Benedict XIII transformed the second level of Peniscola Castle as his headquarters. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Papa Luna of Peniscola
Other than the Templar Order, Papa Luna (Antipope Benedict XIII) was the other popular figure to find its final refuge in the castle of Peniscola. In 1411, due to his persistence and refusal, the Antipope got expelled from the Christian Church, after which he moved from Perpignan to Peniscola. Benedict XIII converted Knights Templar Castle to his Papal seat, making it the third Holy See in the world together with Avignon and Rome.
In 1406 Pope Gregory XII, situated In Rome, offered Papa Luna to resign together to elect a new Pope, who would reunite Christians, but he was stubborn and throughout his life, the rogue Pope never stopped believing that he is the only true reign to be the Head of the Christian world. During his life in Peniscola Castle, Papa Luna worked tirelessly to protect his rights and position as legitimate Pope, leaving a body of written work that was his final legacy of colorful life. Benedict XIII lived in Peniscola Castle until he died in 1423.
The Fortress remained the Papal seat to his successor, Antipope Clement VIII, who after an agreement with Rome, agreed to abandon his positions in favor of recognizing Pope Martin V. That terminated the remains of Avignon Papacy and ended the saga which officially destroyed the legendary Templar Order. Though the fruits of their knowledge and skills remain to this day.
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King Phillip IV of France
Personally, it feels to me like King Phillip IV of France was the main antagonist of this whole historical period, and he turned out as a clear winner. He owned large sums of money to both Knights Templar and Jews and decided to get rid of both with the excuse of them being a state within a state. Seeing the end of the most powerful order of Crusaders was no easy task. As a result, King Phillip IV of France had to confront the Pope itself, which resulted in a victory against the Holy See and Papal clergy transfer to the enclave of Avignon, just under the wing of the victorious King. As I mentioned before, both the Knights Templar and the line of Popes and Antipopes, originated from Avignon, met their end in Peniscola Castle. King Phillip IV of France came out on top of all religious institutions.
The actual name of the town, Peniscola, comes from a local evolution of the Latin word “Peninsula”. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The Bastion of Rennaisance
The city in the sea got its final iconic shape and fortifications during the Renaissance. In 1563, during the reign of Felipe II, an Italian architect J. B. Antonelli visited Peniscola and projected the current form of the fortress. It was a modern type of fortification, many haven’t heard the word “bastion” before the transformation. It was constructed in a shadow of a possible confrontation with another superpower at the time – the Ottoman Empire. Luckily, Peniscola Castle never got to experience the battle it was built for.
Some tunnels from artillery park lead to the old castle port – Porteta, others – outside the walls. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Due to limited space, the architect had to be creative. The internal vaults were used to establish arsenals, mess halls, and munitions dump. These areas were used to house a school for children between 1912 and 1971. The spaces of gunboats were used as windows of the classrooms.
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Personal Experience
While I have heard that Peniscola is an exceptionally beautiful and interesting town, I didn’t expect it to have such a rich history. Combined with the authenticity, it was a pleasant surprise. Peniscola is like a gust of fresh air along the coast full of hotels and various entertainment facilities, which have emerged only in relatively recent years to support the growing tourism. The mild weather and warm sea on the Mediterranean coastlines of Spain is the main attraction for most of the visitors, therefore it is a sweet treat to find such a historic bastion for a change.
The experience of visiting the castle itself was no ordinary tour to any given museum of similar origins. While the very heart of the city is a part of the fortress, the very tip of it on Peniscola rock oversees it all. The area surrounding the castle sorts out in front of your eyes like a map. No surprise, the Knights Templar, Antipope Benedict XIII, and many others, having as many enemies as they had, found Peniscola as a natural spot for a fortress. As a result, Peniscola is a very rich and picturesque tourist destination – for sure worth a day-visit or more.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Unless you are an ex-pat or looking for a warm place by the Mediterranean to become one, the only reason you’d know the name of Torrevieja is its Salty lagoons, locally known as “Salinas”. Technically, it only concludes of two large water bodies: Laguna Salada de Torrevieja and Laguna Salada de La Mata, but I see many bloggers including the salt lagoons of Santa Pola, Elche, and even San Pedro del Pinatar, which is located in a totally different region – Murcia.
Though they don’t add up as the local Torrevieja lagoons, it defines the area in which the fifth largest city in Valenciana Community is located. The area might not be as straight-out beautiful as it is when hiking in the north of Costa Blanca, but nature around Torrevieja has its own flavor of experience and tranquility.
The southern part of Costa Blanca might not have as many advertisement as the northern counterpart, but for sure it has its own pearls. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Best time to visit: April, June, September & October
Map of Hiking Routes
Hiking Torrevieja and La Mata Salt Lagoons
Despite what people might say, neither Torrevieja Salt Lagoon nor La Mata Salt Lagoon has flamingos walking around, with the minor exceptions in the first one. Despite that, the Park of Natural Salt Lagoons is a true refuge for the wildlife, especially birds. Many birdwatching is definitely among the top hobbies of the local communities. I have to admit, with such a big variety it is hard not to fall for it, which I did. You can learn more on my guide for birding around Torrevieja.
Sometimes it is possible to see one or two flamingos, near the salt mine in Salt Lagoon of Torrevieja but getting near them is virtually impossible because that part of the lagoon is private property. There are holes to enter the area but I haven’t seen anybody trying to approach the spots. Generally, people come in to get to the nearest spot of the Lagoon to get awe-inspiring sunsets shots on the glassy surface of Torrevieja Salt Lagoon. Due to exploitation, it is much saltier than the counterpart in La Mata.
One could be forgiven for mistaking this view with a sunset on Titan Moon of Saturn. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Generally, there are no official hikes around this Lagoon and all of the official hiking is done around the wild neighbor.
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La Mata Salt Lagoon
Though most of the hiking and bird-watching is done on the side of La Mata salt Lagoon, facing the sea, it is possible to walk around the whole water body if you’d like. Officially, there are three hiking routes in the park, offering great diversity among them – if you prefer a minimal dose of this natural bird haven – these hikes are just for you. If you feel more adventurous – there are things to see beyond the routes and even some bird watching towers.
I highly recommend taking the yellow route to explore most of the natural ecosystems typically found in wetlands. That includes a wide variety of plants and the protagonists of this type of areas – birds. During the bird nesting season between April and July, you might consider taking the cycling (red) or wine (green) hiking route. Overall, the Salt Lagoon of La Mata is a great example of the natural salty wetlands of Costa Blanca. The park is a great place for bird-watching, but most importantly – the lagoon offers a peaceful area to hike further away from the noisy coastline.
This is where you can see flamingos – at the salt lagoons of Santa Pola. They are so abundant that it is hard to miss them even when simply driving-by. Despite the high numbers, getting close to these majestic birds is not simple. I’ve marked several parking lots on the map along the road throughout the salt lagoons, but have in mind that flamingos prefer privacy. Most of them feed in the ponds further away from the road, where people cannot disturb them. It is almost impossible to make a good shot of the pink birds without professional gear. Personally, I’ve simply learned to enjoy the fact of being surrounded by these beautiful birds without trying to make the moment last forever.
The 2470 ha area of the salt lagoons is an exemplary coexistence between traditional human cultivation and the conservation of nature. These old salty ponds look like they have an entire series of bird species, specialized in these unique natural conditions. This is because some parts of the salt lagoons are no longer in use for the salt extraction, but the whole salination mechanism is still in place. Apparently, birds really like that, thus countless species could be found within the salty ponds including flamingos, egrets, avocets, and many other bird species.
The flamingos are not the only pink things in the area. Thanks to the salt, a wide variety of plants and the ground itself have some amount of pink coloration, which grants the park some exceptional beauty. There is probably no better place to learn about the flora of the park than the hiking route in the Salt Lagoons of del Pinet. This 4 km / 2.48 mi hiking route will uncover all the secrets of this landscape: from the practical use of local herbs in ancient medicine to the mechanics of producing salt in these ponds.
Hiking route of del Pinet goes through old salt lagoons and sand dunes next to the Mediterranean. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
If you want to learn more about salt cultivation in these areas, consider taking either red or green hiking route in the Nature Park of Salt Lagoons of Santa Pola.
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Sierra de Santa Pola – Santa Pola Lighthouse
From the first sight, the lighthouse of Santa Pola and the cliff on which it stands might seem mediocre, but in fact, there is much more hidden beneath the surface. First of all, Santa Pola Lighthouse is actually a medieval watchtower – Talaiola Tower. It was used to observe Tabarca or the Mediterranean for pirate ships and signal it to the people inside the fortress of Santa Pola. Such towers could be found across Costa Blanca. In fact, Torrevieja is named after one of such towers: Torre (eng. Tower) and Vieja (eng. Old). The actual tower is located on a hill, close to Cabo Cervera.
Escaletes Watch Tower could be easily reached on a short hike from the northern part of Santa Pola. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Second, the whole Sierra de Santa Pola is actually a fossil of approx. 5-million-year-old coral reef atoll. Taller than any of its surroundings, the 5 km diameter rock has slowly risen from the sea like a newly formed iceberg in slow motion due to the continuing collision between African and Eurasian plates. The evidence of this is so apparent that on the parts of the rocks, where erosion has opened the atoll, a good geologist could feel like diving in a sea. If you consider wandering off the road to explore the atoll and look for fossils, be sure to wear a good pair of sturdy hiking shoes. Sierra de Santa Pola is the closest you can get in the area to the popular hiking destination in Costa Blanca – Marina Alta.
There are quite a few hiking routes in Sierra de Santa Pola but the trail Connecting Escaletes Watch Tower to Talaiola Tower (Santa Pola Lighthouse) is the best way to experience everything this ancient place has to offer. The 3 km / 1.86 mi one-way hike will provide some glimpses of the local history, great views of the Mediterranean and New Tabarca island, and some insight into the park itself, which will unveil the distant past to any keen eye.
One doesn’t need a PhD in geology to tell that these rocks are somewhat different. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
The main reward of Santa Pola Lighthouse hike is a skywalk, facing Tabarca island. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Salt Lagoons of San Pedro del Pinatar
That is right, more salt lagoons. Though it is located in a different region – Murcia – San Pedro del Pinatar is about the same distance from Torrevieja as Santa Pola. The salt lagoons are situated just next to the largest salt Lagoon in Europe – Mar Menor (Eng. Minor Sea). Regardless of that this large body of water feels like freshwater, compared to the salt lagoons of San Pedro del Pinatar.
Though flamingos are also present in these salt lagoons, to me the most distinctive feature of the place is the mud baths. Thanks to the high salinity and fairly large amount of sunlight in the region, Mar Menor muds are suitable for therapeutical treatments. In fact, the salt lagoons of San Pedro del Pinatar are the biggest open-air mud therapy area in whole Europe. They might be too shallow to be drifted upon like in the Dead Sea but it is enough to get the same SPA procedure the famous sea provides, just for free.
In a fairly short distance, Los Encanizadas has plenty of different terrains to offer. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Once you look at the map, the uniqueness of this area is obvious. The narrow passage between Mar Menor and the Mediterranean catches the eye. Thanks to the unique traits and no urbanization, this is where most of the hiking is done. The obvious hiking trail to beat is the round route along the coast of the peninsula, though due to its length it might be wise to pick up a by cycle for the task.
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To sum things up, the salt lagoons of San Pedro del Pinatar have flamingos, sand dunes, the sea, dead-sea-like SPA mud, and the largest salt lagoon in Europe. Sounds impressive, right? Just have in mind that these are also the most urbanized salt lagoons on the list as well.
Located beyond even the large Mar large in Murcia, the hike to Playa de Calblanque (eng. White Street beach) starts at Cala Reona on the edge of Cabo de Palos. Though the route is located a bit further from Torrevieja, Playa de Calblanque is a good alternative destination to expand your exploration of the gorgeous Spanish Mediterranean coast. Situated in a regional park with the same name, the pristine beach and its surroundings is a wonderful quiet getaway to nature, undisturbed by the noisy urbanized coasts of Costa Blanca.
What I love about the coast of Calblanque Park is the impression of being alien in this part of Spain. The dark stones of mountains and cliffs give an impression of being of volcanic origin. As a matter of fact, these dark rocks are ancient relics from the pre-dinosaur times, formed due to certain extreme conditions, close to the melting point. These types of natural stones are called metamorphic rocks. To my experience, they are much rarer at the surface than sedimentary or volcanic counterparts. They were unearthed for the same reason as all Betic Mountains in southeast Spain – the collision of African and Eurasian plates. One can really learn to appreciate the topography of scenery with the help of geology.
The cliffs between Cala Reona & Playa de Calblanque unveils ancient metamorphic rocks. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Because of the very old nature of this landscape, many mining shafts could be found along the hiking route. If it was not for the formation of Calblanque Regional Park in 1992, these magnificent lands would be exploited to this day. Thankfully, the reality is quite opposite. Calblanque Regional Park offers a great refuge not only to many plant and bird species but helps nature lovers to escape from the otherwise noisy neighborhood. It is considered to be among the best-preserved such geological coastlines in the whole Mediterranean. If nothing, hiking along it is a pure joy.
It is a popular notion that the Southern part of Costa Blanca is not as pretty as the northern one. While I agree with the statement due to personal liking of the mountains, not everybody might have the same opinion. The matter of fact is that the areas, surrounding Torrevieja in South Costa Blanca have a different type of landscape. Instead of mountains, cliffs, and rocky beaches of the northern part of the region, the south has sandy beaches, much smaller cliffs, and wetlands. On top of everything, the region around Torrevieja has its own unique climate zone compared to the rest of the Iberian peninsula. The hot semi-arid climate might sound a bit extreme in summer but in turn, it makes every winter trully pleasant not only to humans but birds as well. As the result, the southern part of Costa Blanca doesn’t look like semi-deadlands at all.
..and then again – the sunsets and sunrises on the salty lagoons are just mesmerizing. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Given all of that, hiking in the area around Torrevieja is just different from hiking in the upper part of Costa Blanca. To some, it will provide a more desirable and accessible landscape than the mountainous one, to the others – at least some unique variety in Spain. One thing is for sure, if you learn to appreciate the wonder, the regions around Torrevieja are, the rewards are going to be immense.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Benidorm is the leader of sunny-beach-style tourism in Spain. The city has such a big branding for it, that the entire TV show was created about British holidaymakers, spending their money by the Mediterranean coast. Actually, Benidorm was featured in more than 300 movies or series and it was the host of many festivals including its own like “Song Festival”.
History
The city might seem a bit too pompous, or too one-dimensional, but becoming a tourism megapolis was the only way to prosperity for the city. Regardless of what it might look like, the roots of Benidorm might be ancient, outdating both Muslims and Romans. What is known for a fact is that Benidorm was first mentioned in 1325, and it came to the brink of extinction between 1502 and 1666, when the back-then-settlement became a part of Polop Parish.
The city marks the beginning of the tourism era in the city in 1893, but Benidorm got its current shape only in the early 1950s. Just after ten years, Benidorm became the first city in Spain to allow bikinis, which at first were demonstrated only by the French girls. Soon after – the tourists followed.
At first, Benidorm was covered by horizontal hotels and villas, but during the 70s the demand grew and so did the size of hotels. They became so enormous that they started to resemble skyscrapers. It was the beginning of the modern tourism era of Benidorm.
For the longest time the only resource of Benidorm – the sunny beaches – was more than enough to fulfill the needs of its holidaymakers, but today the demand is changing. The town got surrounded by various theme parks, sports, golf, and other activity venues. These places are so dense that sometimes it is easy to forget, where Benidorm is located at. There are plenty of things to see and to visit around the famous holidays destination. You can learn more about it in my guide to the best day trips from Benidorm.
Best time to visit: April, June, September & October
Benidorm and most of the natural beauty around it are located in Marina Baixa region. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Hiking Around Benidorm
Benidorm might not be the first destination to come into mind for hiking, but it is actually located in a very beautiful part of Spain – Costa Blanca. The terrain around the city is exceptionally beautiful, thus the option to stretch the legs for a change is always there. Also, Benidorm is located right next to a hiking paradise – Marina Alta.
What applies in Alicante region applies to Benidorm as well. This region is very mountainous, thus there are plenty of hiking opportunities. Given the long stretches of the Mediterranean Sea, most of the hikes have awe-inspiring views, which undoubtedly going to leave a mark in your memory. Despite the depth of the wonderful natural wonders to visit in Alicante region, in this article I’m going to focus only on the hikes within close reach of Benidorm. Though, one could argue that this is in a matter of fact the most beautiful part not only of the region of Alicante, but the whole Valenciana Community.
Hiking in Serra Gelada Natural Park
The most obvious place to hike near Benidorm is the giant rock cliff right next to the city – Serra Gelada Natural Park (Parque Natural de la Serra Gelada). Due to its close proximity, the park might look like a boring place to go, but it couldn’t be further from the truth. Benidorm arose in Costa Blanca not without a reason. This area is stunningly beautiful. The mountains seem to be hand-in-hand with the Mediterranean Sea and Serra Gelada Natural Park is one of those places.
1. Alt del Governador – Climbing the Roof of Serra Gelada
If you want to rise above the skyscrapers of Benidorm, there is no better place to do so than climbing Alt del Governador. Rising 438 m / 1,437 ft above the sea level, which is right next to the peak, Alt del Governador is the highest point of Serra Gelada Natural Park. Though the peak is situated closer to L’Albir on the other side of the mountain range, the yellow route through Serra Gelada connects both towns. Therefore, technically, it is possible to climb Alt del Governador from either side, though walking straight from Benidorm will add about 2-3h of walking in one direction.
Starting Location: Serra Gelada tourist information center
Target Location: Alt del Governador
Distance: ~2 km / 4.34 mi x2
Ascend: 438 m / 1,437 ft
Type: Linear
Duration: 1h x2
Difficulty: Intermediate
The detour route to the peak has the same yellow marking as the rest of the hiking trail, thus be aware of signs showing directions. Alt del Governador rises clearly above all the terrain of Serra Gelada therefore it shouldn’t be possible to miss it. In case you want to be sure, Alt del Governador is the peak with all the antennas on it, The very same one, which gives the precise weather forecast for the beaches of Benidorm.
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Serra Gelada is a very popular hiking destination, but the yellow-marked hiking route is much less crowded than its red counterpart. Both hikes from L’Albir side starts from the tourist information center of Serra Gelada and has dedicated parking lot right next to the entrance. There is no possibility to refill your water tanks along the route except the tourist information center, thus being enough. Though parts of the hike are covered by a forest, during the hot parts of the season, the weather will be scorching even in the shadows.
Climbing Alt del Governador will reward with the amazing views at all directions. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
2. Camino del Faro – The Hike to Albir Lighthouse
The other official hiking route in Serra Gelada Natural Park connects the tourist information center to L’Albir lighthouse via the red-marked track. Way more people come to the park to do this hike than the yellow route and for a good reason. Camino del Faro follows the northeast edge of the Serra Gelada cliff ridge. Needless to say, the views of Penon de Ifach, Altea, L’Albir beach & Puig Campana are just jaw-dropping.
Having in mind the wonderful scenery of the hike, and the accessibility, Camino del Faro is somewhat a paradise for all kinds of nature lovers. Photo by A.L. [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Having said that, the vistas are just top-notch across Serra Gelada. The real reason for the popularity of the hike is the quality of the road itself. Though similar in length, the red route is not as steep as the yellow one. Also, Camino del Faro has a paved wheelchair friendly road, which attracts many cyclists, scooters, and even Segway enthusiasts. In short – anybody can do this hike and it even has WiFi. Given the awe-inspiring vistas along the route, Camino del Faro is a perfect hiking route for easily accessed spots for beautiful Instagram pictures to everybody. You can read more about hiking to Albir lighthouse in this guide.
3. Cova Tallada – Perfect Combination of Walking & Sea
Located on the edge of Costa Blanca, Cova Tallada is a cave system by the sea next to the giant cliffs of Mount Montgó Natural Park. The cave is a very popular destination not only among hikers but kayakers as well. People come here to spend their day on the rocky beaches near Cova Tallada to enjoy the views, snorkeling, and even cliff diving. Because of the crowds, the hike tends to get worse press than it should. Sure the route is dangerous but if you act carefully and follow all the common hiking rules – you’ll be fine. Just be sure to take a pair of good hiking shoes because the rocks are slippery due to the overuse of the route.
There are 6 official hiking routes in Mount Montgó Natural Park but I’ve picked Cova Tallada due to its uniqueness in the list. If you are considering looking for another hike in the park, have in mind that all of them are linear and require taking water supplies with you.
The hallway is connected to the main room which covers most of the total area. Acoustics are perfect here as the ceiling is astonishingly high. The dining room is combined with the room but due to ever-changing trends of design it is hard to notice where exactly the kitchen is. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Cova Tallada hike is a very short walk from Denia by the beautiful cliffs of Mount Montgó, facing the ever-blue Mediterranean Sea. The route starts at the eastern edge of Denia facing Mount Montgó Natural Park. There is no dedicated parking lot for the amounts of visitors Cova Tallada receives, therefore you’ll have to drop your car somewhere in the outer streets of the city. The hike itself will take just above half an hour to complete. That includes some stairs and narrow ferrata roads by the cliffs, thus some mountain hiking experience is recommended.
You can read the details of hiking to Cova Tallada in this guide, but if the hiking route looks too difficult for you – don’t worry – you can always rent a kayak in Denia and row it to Cova Tallada.
4. Penon de Ifach – Climbing the Gibraltar of Costa Blanca
The real crown jewel of the Costa Blanca for challenging hiking and exceptional views is Penon de Ifach. Situated behind Calpe city, on a tip of the region, this rock was used for navigation from ancient times. The great sea culture – Phoenicians – used to call Penon de Ifach the North Rock, with the south one being famous Gibraltar itself.
Rising 332m / 1089 ft above the sea level, Penon de Ifach might not be as tall as Alt del Governador of Serra Gellada but the vistas are superb probably to everything I’ve seen so far in the Iberian Peninsula. Because of that, the popularity of the hike is much higher than it is supposed to be. Many people try to hit above their category by attempting this difficult climb but I can hardly blame them. If anywhere, the risks are worth taking. Though I highly suggest this hike only to the people, who have some rock climbing experience and good sturdy hiking boots.
The hike to the top of Penon de Ifach could be easily divided into two parts: The first one is a good quality road, which traverses up like a snake to a tunnel and could be done by anybody; The second part starts just after the tunnel through rocks to the very peak of the Calpe rock. It might sound easier than I insist the route is, but have in mind the high crowds, which make the rocks more slippery every day. Without a guide to climbing Penon de Ifach should be carefully considered, but it is probably the hike to do in the whole of Costa Blanca. Even though the Calpe rock provides superb views, the other hikes could be much easier but still very mesmerizing.
5. Puig Campana – In Search of Benidorm Island Origins
Puig Campana hike is the hiking route to beat not only around Benidorm but in the whole of Costa Blanca. At 1,406m / 4,613ft is the highest point in the region and one of the tallest mountains in the Valencian Community, therefore getting on the very top of it is the ultimate challenge. Climbing Puig Campana will test not only your skills but endurance and physical preparation as well. Despite all the odds, it will reward with incomparable awe, only possible such peaks as Puig Campana is – the highest mountain in proximity.
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Due to the Puig Campana’s dramatic appearance, the climb to the top of it seems to start from the arrival to Costa Blanca. With the right weather conditions, Puig Campana dominates the landscape in the region. The most extinguishing feature of the mountain is Roland’s cut, which as the legend of Puig Campana tells was cut out by the famous Knight himself to prolong the life of his loved one by a few moments. The remnants of that mountain slice are supposed to be the giant rock at the coast by Benidorm. Whatever there is any truth in this, the legend animates the romance in the already lovely region.
The hiking route to the very top of Costa Blanca begins at Font Moliin Finestrat town. There are two options to climb Puig Campana: The first one is shorted but very unpleasant and a hard one – the so-called “vertical kilometer”, which is actually 1,100m / 3,609ft of steep upright climbing; The second one is easier but longer and requires just as much endurance. The route via Col de Pouet might require a whole day to complete, but it is just as I said before – climbing Puig Campana is the hike to beat in Costa Blanca.
Hiking in the area around Benidorm of Costa Blanca at first might look like a cheap shot but in reality, it is a blessing in disguise. It took me four visits to the area to start truly appreciate the uniqueness of this landscape. The region is filled with artificial towns for tourists and ex-pats but beyond them lies the reason why they were built in this area in the first place. Costa Blanca combines the best of nature into one region and exploring it will be an unforgettable adventure.
On the top of everything, Costa Blanca is not all the same all the way. Benidorm is located at the central part of it and has a good mixture of everything. If you want more cliffs, you should head north to Marina Alta, and if you want a flat landscape, you should try hiking in Torrevieja wetlands. I hope that my personal experience of exploring Costa Blanca will help you to learn to appreciate the region, just as they taught me to do so.
All content and photos by Alis Monte. If you want to collaborate, contact me on info@wp.connectingcosta.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Puig Campana have attracted people’s attention for centuries. Climbing Puig Campana could be easily ranked among the best hikes in Costa Blanca. One of the key features of Puig Campana every visitor of the region notices – a small gash, located just next to the peak of the mountain. Interestingly, a rock of a similar shape could be seen, from the beaches of Benidorm, in the Mediterranean Sea.
This coincidence has stimulated the imagination of local people for ages. Perhaps, for as long since the death of the protagonist in these stories – Roland, the Foremost of Charlemagne’s Paladins. Later on, many legends have been told regarding the origins of the gap in Puig Campana. The most popular one is the romantic one…
During those days, Frankish warriors were common visitors in these lands. The fierce battle between Moors and Franks went back and forth without any decisive victory. During one of those raids, a prodigy Frankish Commander Roland fell in love with a local maiden. Their love didn’t last long because one day Roland learned that the girl is cursed, and she would die when the last ray of sun will touch her skin. A desperate Roland climbed Puig Campana to cut out a piece out of it to prolong the life of her love. When the Sun set behind the Puig Campana, the girl died. Mad with grief, Roland grabbed the piece of the mountain and threw it to the Mediterranean Sea, creating the Island of Benidorm.
Ad Meskens [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)]
The Other Version
…Skipping all the boring parts… and the battle has finally reached its grande finale. The fierce fighting took to the top Puig Campana. People from afar could hear the swinging swords of two nearly evenly matched warriors. Roland was about to get the upper hand against the Moorish leader, he lifted his sword, Durendal, to finish his enemy but the opponent proved to be a worthy one and evaded the final blow. Roland hit the ground instead and cut a piece out of the mountain which fell into the sea…
It is not like we need proof to deny this but the origins of Benidorm’s island differ from Puig Campana by somewhere within 64 million years.
garrulus at https://www.flickr.com. [CC BY 2.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)]
Roland’s Breach (La Brèche de Roland)
Roland’s Cut is not the only feature of the kind in Spain left by the Frankish Commander. Roland must have been a truly talented mountain slasher because he cut Pyrenees as well. This formation is better known as Roland’s Breach, and the story behind it is no less tragic than the one before.
The legend tells that Moors were fiercely chasing Roland to the edge of their territory. Unfortunately, his horse has died when he attempted to escape his pursuers by jumping over a chasm. Roland didn’t give up and continued on foot. Just before his last moment, Roland smote the Pyrenees with his sword to make a breach so he could see his beloved Francia for one last time.
Like in many legends, some parts of them are true. Roland was an actual Commander who died in the area during the Battle of Roncevaux Pass against Basques. That doesn’t mean that he could cut the mountains, but after his death Roland was turned into something as the role-model of all knights. This probably explains why so many legends surround his name ergo making him a legend on its own right.
All of these battles, wrapped with legends, ended up in 795 when Frankish Empire established a military buffer zone – Marca Hispanica. Roughly, the territory included Aragon, Catalonia, and Basque Country. You can read more about Marca Hispanica and following events here.
From everything I’ve ever seen, there is only one place like legendary Gibraltar. Take away the strategic importance with its historical significance from Gibraltar, and add the remote beauty of the wild nature, you get Penon de Ifach. Located on the tip of Calpe City, it is separating the urban area’s beaches into two. Having in mind the Les Salines, a salt lagoon located in the middle of the city, the beauty of views from the top of Penon de Ifach is somewhat iconic on Instagram. This is certainly among the best things to do in Calpe and one of the best hikes near Benidorm, Costa Blanca overall.
Rising 332m above the sea level, which is right next to it, Penon de Ifach is a hard-to-miss wonder of nature of Costa Blanca. With a size of approx. 45 hectares or 62 soccer fields, the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach is the smallest regional park in Spain and one of the smallest in the whole of Europe. Nevertheless, it attracts more than 100,000 visitors each year. Due to its uniqueness, the rock creates many microhabitats perfect for rare specialized plants. If it is safe, be sure to smell various flowers growing around the path.
Penon de Ifach is also a nesting site for many birds and for that reason it has some path restrictions from 1st April to 30th June. Even though you can meet some of the semi-domesticated cats in the park, during the mating season, it is the sea birds which will drive you crazy with their catlike sounds for seducing a partner. No matter how many tourists come here, there are more seagulls than anybody else. It is their rock, respect that. Birds are not the only ones to appreciate Penon de Ifach, humans used the rock to navigate since prehistoric times. Today, Penon de Ifach marks the entrance to Marina Alta – the hikers’s paradise.
It is not surprising that I’m not the first to notice the similarity between Penon de Ifach and Gibraltar. Around 4.000 years ago, Phoenicians, the best sailors in the World at that time, called Gibraltar and Penon de Ifach – the Southern Rock and the Northern Rock, respectively. It served as a landmark for mariners ever since.
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From 4th to 3rd century BC, the rock was a place for Iberian settlement as it proved to be an outstanding strategic place to observe the shores of the surrounding areas and spot approaching pirates. But as technology advanced, the attacks from the sea became unbearable. Villagers had to move deeper into the land, somewhere where the modern Calp is.
For more than a century, the area of Penon de Ifach has been privately owned and only in 1987 it was declared a public regional park after the Generalitat Valenciana Authority bought it.
Calp is connected to any major city around. ALSA buses come and go from Valencia, Denia, Altea, Benidorm, and Alicante every day. You can find more information here: https://www.busbud.com/en/bus-calpe/c/snb5c5
By car – N-332 or AP-7 roads
Like most other coastal cities in the region, the easiest way to reach Calp by N-332 road. The main problem with this road is traffic. The road goes through every town where it runs into the traffic lights, roundabouts and all the other stuff you can imagine to find in urban areas.
Calp can be also reached by the Autopista del Mediterráneo, also known as AP-7, a tolled motorway running along the Mediterranean coast of Spain. If you approaching Calp from the South, exit AP-7 road to N-332 near Altea, or to Bonaire if you are coming from the North.
Parking at the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach
There are some parking spaces just next to the information center of the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach, but it seems to be closed. Instead use the parking down below, at the entrance to the park, or simply put the car anywhere in Calp and walk your way the information center of the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach, where the hike starts.
The hike could be divided into two parts: the First one being really easy and recommended for everyone passing by; And the second should be attempted only by those who are fit, know what they are doing and have a good pair of hiking boots.
The road quality, from the information center of the park to the rock, won’t change a bit. It is easy to walk and has plenty of places to take your breath and enjoy the amazing views. There are no steps just an uphill stone-grounded path.
Both parts of the hike are separated by a tunnel, which gives you a good taste of what is ahead in a safe manner. You’ll get to taste how good are your shoes for slippery stones and how comfortable you are holding onto the chains. Please note that there is no light in the tunnel. If you are afraid of the dark, I am sorry, but if you are afraid of the heights, enjoy while you can. Once you reach the light at the end of the tunnel, the steep cliffs down to the ocean won’t leave your sight for a second. From here on, the road up to Penon de Ifach will turn into a tough challenge for any regular person without any major experience in rock hiking.
The second half of the hike couldn’t be more different from the first one. Instead of a man-made path, the hike will continue on slippery rocks with some chains to hold on. The road is marked with red paint, but sometimes you should consider a safer option next to the main path. There are way fewer people after the tunnel on the road, but with time, the long-lasting rocks have seen a lot of them. The hikers had grinded the surface of the stone like it has spent most of its life in the ocean. The main tips for hiking to the top of Penon de Ifach goes as it follows:
High hiking shoes with a deep sole are really useful here;
Always look where to put your feet;
Enjoy the views only when standing still;
Leave enough time to climb down before it gets dark or take a headlight.
Where the road is narrow, let incoming people pass it first;
If you will continue walking with a hope that the road will get any easier – DON’T. The hike to the top of Penon de Ifach will remain challenging right up to the peak. And it won’t be a pleasant walk. You have to remain conscious of the high probability that any miss-step might result in bye-bye-your-life all the time.
I might be exaggerating a lot, but I’ve seen plenty of people on this hike who shouldn’t be there, and they didn’t look very happy. If you are one, I want to scare you away and save you some nerves. These days it is a common thing that people die trying to take a cool selfie or simply doing a hard hike trying to get to a beautiful vista. Some places are just simply not for everyone, but the motivation behind the possibility of rewarded attention on social media pushes some people beyond their capabilities. Personally, I enjoyed the hike a lot, I love climbing and hiking on rocks and it is really sad that after some misfortune incidents wonderful hikes like this gets closed.
Of course, the real tragedy is the loss of life which could be avoided if the people get informed correctly in front. Instead, there is not much official information to be found in English, which is substituted by some random comments on TripAdvisor. Something like “The hike was challenging but totally worth it”, could mean many things, one of them is that somebody after reading a comment like this won’t get home. Better safe than sorry, right? That is the reason for my description being so harsh. In short – be smart, take that Instagram selfie before the tunnel, and get back home in one piece.
This hike leads to the top of the rock 3xx meters above the sea level, which is next to it. Obviously, there is not much of a space for cafes or bathrooms. The last bathroom is at the start of a hike, in the information center of the Natural Park of Penon de Ifach.
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There is a tap for water at the start of the hike, but I don’t recommend drinking from it. It is mainly to clean your hands after the walk, as you’ll definitely get your hands dirty during this one. If you are reading a guide for the hike, you’ll probably going to take at least 3 hours to complete it. Be sure to take your own water and snacks as the hike up will be exhausting and energy consuming.
It is definitely worth to visit Penon de Ifach, but climbing it to the top is a totally different topic. The views are amazing and worth seeing, but you can see almost the same from the area just before the tunnel without any unnecessary misery. If you are going for beautiful views and shots, getting to the tunnel is enough for you. If you are interested in a difficult and dangerous hike with rewarding views at the end of it, take a shot. With some luck on a beautiful day, you might get even to see the Balearic Islands from the top of Penon de Ifach.
In Costa Blanca, one thing is for sure, you can hardly find any refuge from the noise and the crowds. Even in the off-season, late in the day, the hike was really crowded. Penon de Ifach literally stands out as an obvious thing to do if you are in a region. Many inexperienced hikers might misunderstand the challenge. Never-ever I heard so few “Thank you” when you let somebody coming from the opposing direction to cross a difficult part. Of course, I’m not complaining about the people being not polite, the problem here is a lack of understanding of the cooperation on a dangerous road.
Nevertheless, I really enjoyed the hike, the views are amazing, and the road is very interesting. Attached chains will help you to keep safe, but the rocks are really easy to hold on as well. Rock climbing enthusiasts will be as pleased just as I was. Overall, if you’ll stay careful with the tourists wandering around, tolerate the birds who occupy the rock, you will appreciate what this unsung hike has to offer.
Sierra de La Muela, Cabo Tiñoso and Roldán Nature Reserve
When it comes to Spain many things come to my mind… from Gaudi’s masterpieces in Barcelona to Corridas in Seville… to white beaches in Valencian coast… to Moorish scars in Andalusia… and many many more, there is much to be told about this country. Many songs have been sung and many stories have been written about Spain or it’s crown jewels. The region of Murcia is not one of them, and it doesn’t feel like they want it to be one.
I tried to find any information of hiking trails in what is called Sierra de La Muela, Cabo Tiñoso and Roldán Nature Reserve, just next to Cartagena, a major city in the region of Murcia, I was unsatisfied with what I found. Except for some basic description of the park in English and some promises of endless trails, there was nothing to hang on. Of course, there is plenty of TripAdvisor subjective comments recorded throughout the years, and some hiking paths mapped by people themselves, but none of it give you trust-worthy information of what to expect. ‘A lack of facilities may differ a lot based on a person who wrote that a marked trail without any insight or photos might be just a random path, of which I’ve seen many without any wish to remember or share it with anybody.
Once you enter “Sierra de La Muela, Cabo Tiñoso and Roldán Nature Reserve” to Google, all you get are these mysterious pictures of a castle with some rather modern cannons on it, without any significant explanation. But there is a story for everything, right?
The fortifications of Batería de Castillitos looks more like a castle from Disneyland rather than a military bulding. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Baterías de Castillitos and el Jorel Baterías on Cabo Tiñoso
This interesting site is actually a defensive anti-navy gun battery base, which for some reason was built as it was a part of Disneyland rather than a military base. The site includes the Batería de Castillitos near the parking lot and the smaller Batería de el Jorel at the very tip of the cape. The batteries are built within 1,5km range and exploring the whole site can take quite a lot of time. There is even a possibility to hike down to a beach on the other side of the bay to Cartagena.
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Even though it requires some better marketing and investment into infrastructure by the local authorities, today, Batería de Castillitos and el Jorel are slowly getting the attention it deserves.
The guns were abandoned by the military only in 1994 and the mysterious site was left behind alone ever after. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Baterías de Castillitos and el Jorel were invisible to those from the sea level. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
History of Baterías de Castillitos and el Jorel
Built on a very tip of Cabo Tiñoso (Cape Tinoso), Batería de Castillitos is a powerful defense system built somewhere in-between 1926 and 1933 to protect the important port Cartagena ant its military arsenal. Built by the British, the deployed cannons were the best of the kind in the world at that time and prove to be more than effective. It was placed strategically on the top of Cape Tinoso in a way so it wouldn’t be seen from the sea level.
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The cannons were used only once during the Spanish Civil War, in 1937 against Franco’s Nationalist fleet with devastating efficiency. Knowing its presence was more than enough to scare away the enemies. The guns were abandoned by the military only in 1994 and the mysterious site was left behind alone ever after.
There is one local restaurant in Campillo de Adentrum. Don’t expect a fine dining but it has more than anough to meet the basic needs. Photo by Aistė [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Getting to Batería de Castillitos, Cabo Tiñoso
By bus
Since there is no public transport going to Batería de Castillitos as late as 2020, you’ll either have to drive or walk there yourself.
Sierra de La Muela, Cabo Tiñoso and Roldán Nature Reserve can be found in Murcia region between two major cities Cartagena and Mazarron, connected by AP-7, RM-332, and E-22 roads. Since the road to Batería de Castillitos can be reached only by RM-E23 road which is connected only to E-22, there is no point of using the different road to reach the park.
RM-E23 will keep you at the edge of your seat. The road is not recommended for inexperienced drivers. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
RM-E23 road to Batería de Castillitos
And RM-E23 road is one of those roads which will keep you on the edge on your seat, but without a doubt, it will be very rewarding. The conditions of the road difficulty will build up slowly, so don’t get caught with your guard down. The first two kilometers will lead you through a beautiful green valley until the only town on the road, Campillo de Adentrum, and it won’t get much harder for another kilometer after you pass the town.
Once the road goes steeper, things can get a bit ugly. The roads are relatively narrow and there is not much space to pass by with the other cars. To make things worse, there are no mirrors on U-turns and it is not a common practice to use a machine signal before one. And don‘t forget that you are sharing the road with cyclists and hikers.
Most of the hiking route to Batería de Castillitos will lead through RM-E23 road. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Hiking to Batería de Castillitos
An alternative would be to park your car in Campillo de Adentrum and hike your way up for 8 km one way, which should take around two and a half hours. The hike might be demanding, and you’ll have to walk on the same road as you would go with a car, but at least you won’t have to worry about the difficulties passing each car.
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One thing is for sure – there ar emore cars on Cabo Tinoso than this parking can fit. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Parking at Batería de Castillitos
Even if you are a really experienced driver, the parking at Batería de Castillitos can drive you crazy. Be prepared for a couple of dozens of parking spots, located around a narrow gravel road, full of angry drivers, trying to do the same, with a very limited possibility to turn around. Most of the people just park their car on the left side of the road just before the parking lot.
I would suggest either coming really early or a bit late, just before the sunset, to avoid the main crowds visiting the center. Another option would be parking your car on one a few vista parking spots 300-1,000m to the batteries and hike your way up.
If park authorities going to implement either a bathroom or any other facility up here, please inform me at ctdots.eu@gmail.com Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Facilities at Batería de Castillitos
Be advised that you won’t find either WC or café in the site so be sure to take your own snacks and water, or eat in Campillo de Adentro. If you have some spare time, my personal recommendation would be to go to a remote quiet resort town, La Azohia. It is located only 2.5 km from where E-22 connects to RM-E23 road and has plenty of places to eat or spend your evening.
La Azohia is not only the main hub for hiking the park but has that surfer town feeling as well. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
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If you have the nerves to drive the road, and the patience for horrible parking experience, you won’t regret visiting Batería de Castillitos at Cabo Tiñoso. The distant views of Cartagena in the Mediterranean Sea alone are worth the visit, but you get to see some of those old-school huge cannons on a full scale and Disneyland-like fortifications as well.
Is there any other military instalment which looks like from Disneyland in the whole world? Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
Just be aware of a forecast. I would not suggest making this trip if the weather conditions are not suited for it. Avoid the rain and clouds, without the panorama the trip itself is just not worth all the struggle. Also, visiting Batería de Castillitos on Cabo Tiñoso during a bad weather might be dangerous.
Despite the poorness of this forgotten region, Murcia has a lot to show off. If I sounded harsh describing my experience, it is just because I see so much potential, therefore, the lack of investment into tourism kind of upset me. With better marketing, Murcia can be described as a very interesting place to visit, the region definitely has beautiful nature, interesting cities, not to even mention the important role in Reconquista. Yeah, the reconquer of Iberian Peninsula by Christians from Islamic Moors, which was one of the precursors to the Renaissance of Europe. What I miss from the region of Murcia, is a bit of pride in their rich history. Take our money, build that infrastructure.
Visiting Baterías de Castillitos and el Jorel will leave very few people unsatisfied with what they saw. Photo by Alis Monte [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Connecting the Dots
This series of articles is not “for” or “against” the independence of Catalonia. What I want is to run through the facts and leave that decision to you. Iberian peninsula has a very rich history and it is not a surprise that a region like Catalonia has all the reasons to claim their rights for independence, but it is important to keep in mind that Spain is formed from many ancient kingdoms and in the end, there is no good or bad, everyone is just playing a game for their own benefit.
What defines a nation?
The most used law dictionary in the US ‘Black’s Law Dictionary’ states:
“A people, or aggregation of men, existing in the form of an organized jural society, inhabiting a distinct portion of the earth, speaking the same language, using the same customs, possessing historic continuity, and distinguished from other like groups by their racial origin and characteristics, and generally, but not necessarily, living under the same government and sovereignty.”
206 BC during the Second Punic War, the Roman Republic seized the Carthaginian territories in the south and east of the Iberian Peninsula. After that Roman republic gradually extended and in 19 BC Augustus, the first Roman emperor annexed the whole Hispania to the Roman Empire. Hispania was the Roman name for the Iberian Peninsula. It was divided into three regions and the northern territory was called Hispania Tarraconensis. It is often disputed whether it is more like Ibero-Romance or Gallo-Romance languages, however, Catalan language, just like Castilian Spanish or Occitan language from southern France, developed from the Vulgar Latin spoken in the Roman Empire.
Catalan genetic ancestry
To this day, Jewish and North African ancestry of the people living in the Catalonia and Basque regions remains relatively low compared to the rest of the Iberian Peninsula. It might seem self-evident as North Africans invaded the Iberian Peninsula from the south and north remained less touched by their culture, but in fact, the southernmost region of Spain – Andalusia has relatively low North African population as well. This is due to various relocations of the Moriscos (North African descents who converted to Christianity) from their homeland. Many of them were expelled to the northwest, where we can find higher North African ancestry based on genes. It is harder to find the reason for the Jewish population, but Catalonia, Gascony, and NE Castile have lower ancestry compared to other regions in the Iberian Peninsula.
Catalan history
Marca Hispanica
After decades of fighting between Frankish Empire and expanding Umayyad Caliphate, in 795 CE Charlemagne establishes the Marca Hispanica, a military buffer zone between the two powers. The city of Barcelona was conquered by the Charlemagne’s son Louis the Pious in 801 and the county of Barcelona remained incorporated into the Frankish Empire even after the death of Charlemagne in 814, when the region falls into a scene of revolts. In 817, Pamplona, led by Basque lord Eneko Arista detaches from the Marca Hispanica and soon was followed by Aragon (820).
The first Count of Barcelona
In 801 Bera was declared the first Count of the Barcelona and remained such until 820 when he was exiled for trying to adapt peaceful policies with Muslim ruled An-Andalus. Even though after that the rule of the County of Barcelona went to the Frankish nobles, it didn’t take long for the local nobility to regain trust of the King and Sunifred I was declared the Count of Barcelona in 844. His son Wilfred the Hairy was the last ruler of the region appointed by the Frankish King.
Origins of Catalonia flag
The Senyera, a yellow flag with four red stripes on it, used not only in Catalonia, but in many regions including Valencia, Aragon and Balearic Islands. A legend tells that in a battle with Moors, the Count of the Barcelona, Wilfred the Hairy, was deadly wounded and in his deathbed, he asked his ally Frankish King, the son of Louis the Pious, Charles the Bald for a coat of arms. The King then put four of his fingers into the Count’s open wound and drew four stripes on a golden shield.
The Estelada
The flag for Catalonia independence movement is basically the Senyera with a blue triangle and a single star on it.
De facto Independence of County of Barcelona
With years the Counts of Barcelona had strengthened their authority and distanced themselves from Frankish influence. In 985 Muslims of Al-Andalus attack and burn Barcelona. The Count of Barcelona, Borrell II takes refuge in Monserrat mountains, where he waits for help from the Frankish king, which never comes. In 988 when the Carolingian dynasty was replaced by the Capetian dynasty, Borrell II never went to swear for allegiance to the new Frankish king. This is considered de facto independence of the County of Barcelona.
De jure Independence of County of Barcelona
In 1258 Louis IX of France and James I of Aragon signs the treaty of Corbeil. By it, former Frankish kingdom, now France, abandon their ancient claims to Catalonia and Roussillon. In exchange Crown of Aragon (Catalan-Aragonese kingdom) renounces it claims to territories in the south of France.
Torres de Serranos & Torres de Quart – The Guardians of Valencia
Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporània (CCCC) – Where History Meets Art
Portal de la Valldigna – A Window to the Moorish Past
Plaza del Tossal & Plaza del Negrito – The Social Hubs
Street Art Murals – El Carmen’s Open-Air Gallery
Culinary Experiences – A Fusion of Tradition and Innovation
Art and Culture – A Bohemian Paradise
Shopping – Unique Finds in Hidden Corners
Nightlife – Where the City Comes Alive
Cafés and Bakeries – Perfect for a Morning or Afternoon Break
Bars and Nightlife – From Laid-Back Cocktails to Lively Clubs
Boutique Hotels – Stay in Style
Caro Hotel – A luxury boutique hotel set in a 19th-century palace, featuring Roman and Gothic architectural elements. A unique blend of history and sophistication.
Vacation Apartments – Live Like a Local
Budget-Friendly Stays – Hostels & Guesthouses
Getting to El Carmen
Getting Around El Carmen
Driving & Parking – Not Recommended
Why El Carmen?
